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Old January 12th, 2011, 05:20 AM   #1
bliket
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Clutch is slipping when I accelerate hard in 2nd or 3rd

My Ninja 250 only has 7,000 miles on it, it's a 2008.

Like the title says, clutch is slipping when I accelerate hard in 2nd or 3rd gear, to the point of redlining, I have to ease off the throttle and gently accelerate.

From what I gather on here, this problem is directly linked to worn clutch springs? Seems kind of early for a motorcycle with 7,000 miles on it.

The previous owner seemed to drive the crap out of it, because when I got it I had to replace the tires and brakes, both of which were completely at the end of their life cycle (at 7,000 miles!!)

So, does this sound like a worn clutch springs problem?
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Old January 12th, 2011, 05:38 AM   #2
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I would suggest verifying the clutch cable adjustments are to spec.
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Old January 12th, 2011, 07:57 AM   #3
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I would suggest verifying the clutch cable adjustments are to spec.
+1

But, if the PSPO really did neglect the bike in the manner you say, it might be a bit of peace of mind to know that you have a brand new clutch in your bike to go with those brakes and tires. Consumables some times are just worth replacing
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Old January 12th, 2011, 09:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubojr1 View Post
I would suggest verifying the clutch cable adjustments are to spec.
That may be it. I would think a bad clutch would slip in every grear. Not just 2nd,3rd.
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Old January 12th, 2011, 10:15 AM   #5
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Another vote for the clutch cable being out of adjustment. Especially if it runs fine at lower RPMs. If the clutch wastoast, you'd have more wide ranging issues.
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Old January 12th, 2011, 06:15 PM   #6
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I took it to the dealer

I took it to the dealer and they said the clutch cable was ok.

So they wanna charge me money to figure out what the problem is (probably look at the clutch assembly, which would mean also draining the oil) before they call kawasaki to see if this problem is covered under the good times warranty(which I got till 2012).

I am about to go to the service department and drop off my bike tonight because my fork seals are weeping (as opposed to leaking), which kawasaki is paying for. parts and labor.
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Old January 12th, 2011, 06:33 PM   #7
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What the heck did the first owner do to the bike? Did you buy it from a Kawasaki dealer and get an extended warranty?
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Old January 12th, 2011, 06:44 PM   #8
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Did you recently change oil?
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Old January 12th, 2011, 07:47 PM   #9
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What the heck did the first owner do to the bike? Did you buy it from a Kawasaki dealer and get an extended warranty?
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The original owner bought the warranty. I have no idea what he did to the bike, but he sure put it through it's paces.

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Did you recently change oil?
I haven't and I don't know the last time someone changed the oil.

So, should I pay to have them check the clutch and hope that kawasaki pays for the labor and parts, or should I just get some oil and clutch springs and do it myself hoping this solves the clutch slipping issue?
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Old January 13th, 2011, 02:54 PM   #10
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The original owner bought the warranty. I have no idea what he did to the bike, but he sure put it through it's paces.

The fact that the previous owner purchased the extended warranty is to your benefit!

Personally, I would pay the cost to diagnose your problem. It not a bad idea to create a relationship with the Kawi dealer since you do not know the extent of the problem and that there could be more issues that you are not aware of. This way it would be documented by the dealer.

There will be plenty of opportunity in the future if you want to do the work yourself and it is something you feel confident you can do (and enjoy doing).

With all of the time I spent in my youth trying to keep my Hoopties running (and I have done my fair share) I am less interested in doing the work. As a kid in my house we fixed everything! My old man spent his whole life in the auto industry... I have never paid a shop for a brake job... or much else. Still, I know that I am not a mechanic and could not do repairs w/o the shop manual. Someday I will find a project bike that I can drink beer and hang out with in the garage. I will still however have another one I can ride

If you want the shop manual for the 08, I have it on cd. I can make a copy and send it to you.
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Old January 14th, 2011, 09:27 AM   #11
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If the cluthc cable is adjusted properly, then the diagnosis and repair should be covered under warranty.
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Old January 14th, 2011, 09:54 AM   #12
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Yup. Warranty should cover for diag and repair costs
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Old January 14th, 2011, 10:30 AM   #13
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Since you don't know what oil is in there, I would try changing that. Perhaps the PO put automotive oil in it and you have a friction modifier issue.

I'd be suprised if the warranty covered the clutch springs or friction discs as these would be considered normal wear items like brake pads and drive chain.

Good Luck! Hope you get it sorted.
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Old January 14th, 2011, 11:46 AM   #14
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I'd be suprised if the warranty covered the clutch springs or friction discs as these would be considered normal wear items like brake pads and drive chain.
I think they should cover it since the bike only has 7000 miles on it, no way the friction disc is shot at 7000 miles. If so do I have to replace it again at 14000 miles? and then at again at 21000 miles? Is getting a new friction disc a maintenance job with an interval at every 7000 miles? I think not.

Oh and I have a huge qualm with my kawi dealer, which I will most likely never take my 250 to again since they told me to drop off my bike 2 days ago (they insisted, so they can get the job done fast) and they didn't get to it yesterday. So I am hoping they get to it today, if they don't then I will take the bike from them. Replacing front fork seals (according to them) is a 1hr 30min job, it should have been done yesterday.

Oh also, this dealership initially said that front fork springs is a wear item as well, I had to convince them to call kawasaki, which approved the job/claim in 2 minutes.

I am glad that I live in an area that has about 5 different kawi dealers, this current dealership already made money off of me since I bought tires and had them put it on the bike ($240 job out the door)

Oh one more thing now that I re read this post. My kawi dealer said that kawasaki is less likely to cover my clutch slip problem since I filed a claim 2 days ago for the front fork seals. Does this seem right?

I think it's just a bad kawasaki dealer... They always tell me that the warranty won't hold up until they call kawasaki. I think it's better for them having me pay for repair rather then filing a claim with kawasaki.
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Old January 14th, 2011, 12:31 PM   #15
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The dealer shouldn't care if it's a claim, or a person paying out of pocket. They still are getting paid. That being said, a clutch could go out by 1,000 miles. Being someone is riding that bike hard. Maybe the person who owned the bike before you rode that thing hard.? The warranty you have covers stuff with the motor. Brakes, clutch, fork springs all wear down as you ride. That is normal, unless something is causing the clutch to go bad and is not at fault of the rider.

It never hurts to have two people look at your bike. It sounds as the dealer your at now is giving you some hassels. Look online at reviews at each Kawasiki shop and see wich is best for you.
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Old January 14th, 2011, 12:57 PM   #16
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The warranty you have covers stuff with the motor. Brakes, clutch, fork springs all wear down as you ride.
I am having my kawi dealer take care of my fork seals, which kawasaki will pay for, but they don't cover fork springs?

Also, the warranty only covers stuff with the motor? Why would they cover my fork seals? It seems that fork seals have nothing to do with the motor.

What exactly does my warranty cover and what does it not, I have been trying to find this out... I know that tires, brake pads, brake rotors, bulbs are definitely not covered.
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Old January 14th, 2011, 01:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I think they should cover it since the bike only has 7000 miles on it, no way the friction disc is shot at 7000 miles. If so do I have to replace it again at 14000 miles? and then at again at 21000 miles? Is getting a new friction disc a maintenance job with an interval at every 7000 miles? I think not.

So they'll cover my race bike clutch too? I launch at @ 12K RPM and slip the clutch to prevent a wheelie. I just won't tell them that.

I agree the clutch should last longer, but it really depends on how it was treated by the previous owner. If the clutch was slipped repeatedly on every launch, and shift, then it's going to wear out fast. If the cable was improperly adjusted it's could wear faster. If improper grade oil was used it could wear faster. Kawi's fault? Nope. DB rider.

Worst case the clutch friction plates are fried, it looks like around $70 for the plates and maybe 2 hours to change them.

I agree on getting a second opinion from another dealer. Something sounds 'off' about the one you are dealing with.

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Old January 14th, 2011, 01:54 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by bliket View Post
I am having my kawi dealer take care of my fork seals, which kawasaki will pay for, but they don't cover fork springs?

Also, the warranty only covers stuff with the motor? Why would they cover my fork seals? It seems that fork seals have nothing to do with the motor.

What exactly does my warranty cover and what does it not, I have been trying to find this out... I know that tires, brake pads, brake rotors, bulbs are definitely not covered.
Aw well, i'm wrong with the fork I guess . I was just stating that normal wear items are not covered. Did the shop say what they think is wrong with the clutch yet?
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Old January 14th, 2011, 08:09 PM   #19
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Did the shop say what they think is wrong with the clutch yet?
They didn't even touch the bike yet since Wednesday. They got the parts for the fork seals and they insisted on me dropping it off on Wednesday so they could start repairs. I called yesterday (Thursday), and they said they couldn't get to it till Friday. So I called today (Friday) and they said I could pick it up at 4pm. I called at 4pm and they said they will get to it tomorrow (Saturday) and if they don't then the guy on the phone will do it. I visited them today (Friday) to find that my 250 has not even been touched/moved since Wednesday.

I just want my fork seals replaced and I will never bring my 250 to this dealer again.

Also for the clutch slippage problem: I bought new EBC clutch springs today off ebay. I will go to autozone for a new oil filter and new oil. I will drain the oil and install the new oil filter and take the cutch cover off and install the new clutch springs and inspect the friction plates. Then I will put the new oil in and see if anything changed (or if I need to buy new friction plates)

btw, the kawasaki warranty is a joke. They won't cover diagnostics or repair unless I pay the dealer $90/$130 for diagnostics first. I can buy 2 sets of friction plates for just the diagnostics. It comes out to $200-$300 (on top of the diagnostic fee) to replace an abused clutch. (which may or may not be the case, since I definitively did not abuse the clutch but the previous owner may have). And if it turns out it is an abused clutch, kawasaki will pay nothing.

I found a great DIY here, which I will be using in case the friction plates are shot:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=25301
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Old January 18th, 2011, 05:36 AM   #20
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Dealer still has my motorcycle, which I borrowed for two hours yesterday, and brought back.

In that time I took the fairings off, drained the oil, took out the oil filter, took off my engine cover, opened the clutch basket, inspected the friction plates.

Friction plates were good (in my opinion, very good), I dried off the old oil with a paper towel, put them back in, put new clutch springs on, put everything back together, put new oil filter and oil in the engine.

Then I tried to get the clutch to slip by accelerating hard in 2nd and 3rd gear, but it didn't slip anymore!
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Old January 18th, 2011, 06:34 AM   #21
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Good news. It sounds like you got it figured out and turned your own wrench too!
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Old January 18th, 2011, 08:58 AM   #22
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Dealer still has my motorcycle, which I borrowed for two hours yesterday, and brought back.

In that time I took the fairings off, drained the oil, took out the oil filter, took off my engine cover, opened the clutch basket, inspected the friction plates.

Friction plates were good (in my opinion, very good), I dried off the old oil with a paper towel, put them back in, put new clutch springs on, put everything back together, put new oil filter and oil in the engine.

Then I tried to get the clutch to slip by accelerating hard in 2nd and 3rd gear, but it didn't slip anymore!
Great! Good to see you fixed it!
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Old January 18th, 2011, 04:02 PM   #23
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Nice work!
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