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Old September 15th, 2009, 03:54 AM   #41
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she has balls out from 4-7K then 8-12 she really strains for power...so im thinkin the needles made the mid VERY rich and leaned out the top end...if I have half throttle she climbs a bit easier up top...still keep the 98 mains?
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Old September 15th, 2009, 10:01 AM   #42
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did you drill your slides?
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Old September 16th, 2009, 04:13 PM   #43
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nope, didnt drill slides. but been limited to half power for the past while because the throttle body was apparently set up in a manner to stop it prematurely in the wrong spot. *shrugs* we'll see what happens now...:-P
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Old October 12th, 2009, 12:06 AM   #44
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I'm planning on doing this tomorrow.... Has this mod (with #70 bit) NOT worked well for anyone?
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Old October 12th, 2009, 03:19 PM   #45
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Just drilled mine and got it all buttoned up a few moments ago.

Here's the thing.... the L diaphragm was torn at the lip in one spot when I removed the cover. AHHHHHH - PITA!!!
The L carb is tricky with all those little hoses routed over and around it.

I think this was from when I shimmed many months ago, but it is interesting that I didn't notice. I wonder if it was sealed just enough that it didn't matter (it was deformed slightly and sticking out the side. I didn't use the grease trick that first time I removed the covers, but you better believe I did today.

I'm so ticked.... I'm going to start her up and try a test run in a few minutes, before the rain comes.
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Old October 12th, 2009, 04:29 PM   #46
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^ Your suppose to pop them two vacuum lines off that side valve to make life easier
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Old October 12th, 2009, 05:25 PM   #47
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Here's the thing.... the L diaphragm was torn at the lip in one spot when I removed the cover.
Use tube repair glue and fix it!!!!
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Old October 12th, 2009, 06:02 PM   #48
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Quote:
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^ Your suppose to pop them two vacuum lines off that side valve to make life easier
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Old October 12th, 2009, 06:25 PM   #49
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^ Your suppose to pop them two vacuum lines off that side valve to make life easier
Yeah, next time.... one of them was a little stubborn, but now I know to work at it a little longer.

The test ride actually went well... throttle response is improved, and causes an illusion similar to what it felt like when I first shimmed. My midrange still sucks from yanking my snorkel 2 days ago.... I may put it back, but haven't decided.

For a while I have suspected my valves need to be done, because at my 7.5K they said they were barely within spec, and didn't change them. I am almost at 14K now, and the engine has sounded a little clicky, or chattery to me for a while. But now that I know the diaphragm has been torn at the lip, I wonder if it is more of a pulsation that I am hearing.... it is hard to say for sure.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 01:37 PM   #50
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Don't forget to resynch your carb
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Old October 14th, 2009, 01:50 PM   #51
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Don't forget to resynch your carb
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Are you suggesting this because drilling may have thrown it off, or the potential for the leak in the L diaphragm?

I am about 1-2 months away from my next major service (14K mi), should be good waiting until then for the shop to do it?
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Old October 14th, 2009, 01:53 PM   #52
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Don't forget to resynch your carb
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And dont forget to put the spring seat in the correct way(the four leg thing that holds the needle in place). You know, so it doesnt block off the hole/new hole in the slide. < peeps with four washers might not have to worry
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Old October 14th, 2009, 01:54 PM   #53
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Everytime you mess with carb, it'll be out of synch so you'll need to resynch it for optimal perf.
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Old October 14th, 2009, 01:58 PM   #54
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Everytime you mess with carb, it'll be out of synch so you'll need to resynch it for optimal perf.
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Gotcha - I didn't know just popping the top would do that...

Gehto style OK, or is it worth investing in the tool (this is my last non-FI bike)?

I didn't think about the plastic leg on the spring covering the hole
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Old March 28th, 2010, 12:12 PM   #55
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Just as an FYI, any Hobby shop that deals with Trains, Planes and R/C will have that drill bit in stock. If they don't, ask them if there is a Train, Plane or R/C event in town...
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Old March 28th, 2010, 12:36 PM   #56
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Just as an FYI, any Hobby shop that deals with Trains, Planes and R/C will have that drill bit in stock. If they don't, ask them if there is a Train, Plane or R/C event in town...
Yes, I found the local 'Hobby Town' had them.
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Old March 14th, 2011, 03:14 PM   #57
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Planning on doing this mod this summer to get my engine to rev a little quicker. The two bros slipons I installed also make my engine rev noticiably quicker. Would drilling this extra hole make my engine too quick to rev with my setup and start bogging?

(stock airbox, shimmed needles, idle mix adjusted, stock 105 jets)
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Old March 17th, 2011, 09:20 AM   #58
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Any more reviews on this mod? I am planning to do this on Friday but still giving it some thought, just got my AP exhaust, Pod filter, FactoryPro jetkit. Can't wait to get them in!

Any drawbacks to this mod?
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Old March 17th, 2011, 12:56 PM   #59
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I'd suggest doing this after you've done all the other mods and have a good feel/idea of what you have before doing this one.
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Old March 17th, 2011, 01:17 PM   #60
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Kelly, how was your results? Would you say its similar to a lighter weight flywheel for a car?
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Old March 17th, 2011, 01:24 PM   #61
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it makes the bike just "slightly" quicker revving. That may or may not be a good thing, depending on where you are and where you want your mods to go. It's more a fine tuning tool than a must have, IMHO.

I wouldn't (don't) do mods just cause some hack on the internet is doing them. I look at what I have and see if there are fixes for what I see is a deficiency or areas that need improvement. I normally do my mods in steps so I can compare and see if it leads to an improvement from what I just came from. if not, I usually remove it.
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Old March 17th, 2011, 01:27 PM   #62
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Alright looks like I'll have to wait and see, but you know..free mods are irresistible..
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Old March 19th, 2011, 03:52 AM   #63
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Instead of drilling a new smaller hole, could you just enlarge the existing air hole and get the same result?
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Old March 19th, 2011, 06:36 AM   #64
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yes you could. Thats what dynojet has you do with a drill bit that they supply. But from what I've read from people who use it, the hole is a touch too big some times?
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Old March 19th, 2011, 12:03 PM   #65
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yes, could drill the existing hole a bit larger, but if you go too big, repairing it becomes a problem. if you drill a small hole and it ends up being too big, fixing it is a simple task of gluing it back shut and redrilling another hole a bit smaller.

hopefully you won't have to as the size has been worked out for you in this DIY.
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Old March 19th, 2011, 01:07 PM   #66
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Wait an minute.... I did all my mods because the Great Guru kkim did them. lol

In all seriousness though, a lot of us, self included, have probably done a lot of stuff because others did them first. It may not always be the wisest thing to do, but I have a hard time learning if I don't make mistakes along the way.
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Old April 25th, 2011, 05:49 PM   #67
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So I did this over the weekend. Took it for a short ride around the block and it was great. Today, I went for a longer ride to test it more. It worked great, but if I cruised at exactly 6k for about 10 seconds, the bike started choking like what happens when you need to switch over to the reserve tank, if i gave it full throttle, it took off like a bat outta heck like usual(I assume this is because the main jet is fully open at WOT). Took it apart to inspect. Diaphragms were both fine, and seated properly. Put it back together and took it for another ride. Same thing. Took it apart again, and glued the holes shut. Haven't tested that as the glue needed to dry, but I'm sure it'll be good as new. General note to pre-gen riders: this doesn't work perfectly with our bikes.

My question is, if I was running pods, would this still happen? the hole lets in air to let the slide move, so if there was more air, would it move to the right place immediately instead of going not far enough and starving the engine and then snapping to the right place? Anywho, I won't be trying to drill the slides anymore. It was a good experience since I learn best from doing, but I won't do it again
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Old July 14th, 2011, 07:25 PM   #68
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anyone know why this happened to me when I drilled my slides? My hole patching in my slides worked perfectly. I'm still wondering if I should try this again. I gave me problems when I only ran 1 washer on each needle, but now I have 2 on each. I'm mostly just curious why it didn't work, when the pregen and newgen slides/diaphragms are the same.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 07:44 PM   #69
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I have no idea. I haven't really been tracking the affects on pre-gen models, but I know there was a slight difference with their carbs.... IIRC, although many parts are interchangeable, the intake and/or exhaust side was bigger by a couple mm. But I have no idea if that is really contributing to your problem...... I would be happy that it is fixed with patched holes, and wouldn't worry too much since that is how it was originally designed to operate.
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Old November 19th, 2011, 09:17 PM   #70
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Guys - would you recommend drilling the slides when using a Dynojet Stage 2 Jetkit ...

This will be my racebike for next year. And i cannot take the snorkel or airbox off. I can use full system and an aftermarket air filter.
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Old November 19th, 2011, 09:38 PM   #71
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Guys - would you recommend drilling the slides when using a Dynojet Stage 2 Jetkit ...

This will be my racebike for next year. And i cannot take the snorkel or airbox off. I can use full system and an aftermarket air filter.
Hmmmm..... Not sure, you should check with the girls here.


j/k. I THINK you are supposed to drill for the DJ kits. I have a FP kit, which say you don't need to drill, but I did anyways (their recommendations seem a bit backwords to me, in more ways than one). What do you mean you CAN'T take off the snorkel or box? Do you mean you prefer not to?
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Old November 19th, 2011, 09:56 PM   #72
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Old November 19th, 2011, 10:00 PM   #73
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ya, AFM club racing rules at production will not allow modifying the airbox or its components

Here is the Dynojet kit link : http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motor...asaki.aspx#250 ... The 2193 Stage2 kit for 08+ do not talk about drilling slides. The 2138 Stage3 kit for 07 and under does talk about drilling.


Are you saying you drilled the extra hole in the slide with the #70 bit? Am not referring to drilling the cap out, just to be sure we are on the same page . I did not see your info in the jetting database, do you race/track the bike? How do you like your current setup. [I think we can discuss this in my other jetting thread]

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I have a FP kit, which say you don't need to drill, but I did anyways (their recommendations seem a bit backwords to me, in more ways than one).
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Old November 19th, 2011, 10:39 PM   #74
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ya, AFM club racing rules at production will not allow modifying the airbox or its components

Here is the Dynojet kit link : http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motor...asaki.aspx#250 ... The 2193 Stage2 kit for 08+ do not talk about drilling slides. The 2138 Stage3 kit for 07 and under does talk about drilling.


Are you saying you drilled the extra hole in the slide with the #70 bit? Am not referring to drilling the cap out, just to be sure we are on the same page . I did not see your info in the jetting database, do you race/track the bike? How do you like your current setup. [I think we can discuss this in my other jetting thread]
Ahhh... that's funny, I thought Alex was joking about rules - I get it now.

Yes, I'm talking about drilling the slides themself (don't remember the bit#). My info isn't in the db, because I'm still dialing it in.... I was close, then swapped engines, so I had to start over. I'm close though.
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Old November 20th, 2011, 12:28 AM   #75
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I'd definitely check with your rules books on whether it's kosher or not to drill slides, but as they seem to allow tuning, I'd think it's allowable.

In theory, drilling the slides shouldn't affect your jetting much. It's more to increase the slide response speed, allowing more airflow between the two sides of the diaphragm. The #70 bit is correct for size. Also, if you fubar things or don't like it, you should be able to plug the hole with a little JB Weld or other permanent epoxy.

FWIW, I'm using the DJ Stage 2 kit on an airbox-less, Area P-full system bike, supplemented with a lot more main jets, replaced pilot (stepped up a size) and drilled slides. Love it
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Old November 20th, 2011, 10:01 AM   #76
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Modification of carbs (rejetting) is allowed. while superbike has no restrictions, i plan to race production class as well.

Since i need to keep the snorkel on, i have to check what will be best option (in terms of mainjet sizes). i can mess with the pilot circuitry later if need to.

Thanks for the info, what mainjet size (dynojet size) you are currently running?


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I'd definitely check with your rules books on whether it's kosher or not to drill slides, but as they seem to allow tuning, I'd think it's allowable.

In theory, drilling the slides shouldn't affect your jetting much. It's more to increase the slide response speed, allowing more airflow between the two sides of the diaphragm. The #70 bit is correct for size. Also, if you fubar things or don't like it, you should be able to plug the hole with a little JB Weld or other permanent epoxy.

FWIW, I'm using the DJ Stage 2 kit on an airbox-less, Area P-full system bike, supplemented with a lot more main jets, replaced pilot (stepped up a size) and drilled slides. Love it
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Old November 21st, 2011, 01:58 PM   #77
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I just spoke with Dynojet ... They do not talk about drilling in their Stage2 Kit. However, as i understand this DIY is more of a fine tuning process, which can be done later.

Now, with the snorkel box ON, i need to figure out on the jetting.
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Old March 2nd, 2018, 01:33 AM   #78
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got my #70 drillbits and will try this mod. gonna try 108 mains also
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Old March 2nd, 2018, 05:19 PM   #79
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#70 drill bits really need to be used in a pin vise. i used a standard chuck and had to wrap duct tape around the the end for a shim. i have extra bits if any one needs one.
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Old March 3rd, 2018, 04:10 AM   #80
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went good. these bits are super tiny!make sure you carefully judge hole location.if too close/inside you will hit springholder boss on the other side. i had to use max speed to get bit to cut. one thing i like about secondary hole is if doesn't work ya can plug it. nice!
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