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Old February 6th, 2018, 12:05 PM   #1
austinninjabill
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Where to route the coolant overflow tube?

Hi all.

I am getting close to finally attempting to turn over the 1992 Ninja 250 I was given a couple of months back -- after it had been sitting since 2004.

So far what I have done:

1. Tank cleaned; 5:1 muratic acid solution, then coated with 2-4oz of liquid WD-40 switshed around then drained to coat in order to stop surface rust; new petcock installed
2. Carbs completely rebuilt; torn down, all carb body and other parts soaked in chem-dip 'til shiny clean, then acetone washed, all serviceable components renewed; throttle and choke cables pressure lubricated
3. Airbox removed and replaced with K&N pods and K&N crankcase breather; slow jets updated from 38 to 40, main jets from 105 to 110, one spacer added on the main jet needle to compensate/offset increased airflow; idle air screws turned out 2.5 turns
4. Plugs removed and stabil engine "fog" sprayed liberally into cylinders, new plugs installed
5. Oil drained and filter replaced
6. New battery box constructed out of aluminum (since original battery box is molded into the original airbox); new battery installed

Engine turns freely in 1st gear with plugs removed (no compression).

Still remaining: renewing/bleeding brakes (but not needed to get engine running).

That's where I am at.

Now to my question.

When I was tearing the whole thing down, I didn't pay attention to where the coolant overflow hose was routed.

There is a routing "guide" welded to the frame on the lower right side, and it looks like the carb overflow and tank overflow both are supposed to be routed thru that guide, but I could find no equivalent routing or guide on the right side of the frame for the coolant overflow hose.

Any idea where the coolant overflow hose is supposed to go?
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Old February 6th, 2018, 02:43 PM   #2
jkv45
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The photo at the start of this section shows the general routing of the overflow hose -

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/File:Reservoirim9.jpg

It's not used unless there is a problem, but I would route it so if any coolant came out it would be as far away from the tire as possible.

If there was a problem you wouldn't want it spraying out on your rear tire mid-corner...
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Old February 6th, 2018, 06:53 PM   #3
DannoXYZ
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I’ve got mine routed to come out just behind kickstand. Of course this will only save me if the coolant spews in left-hand corners. On right-hand corners, it would spray right in front of tyre...
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Old February 9th, 2018, 12:54 PM   #4
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I have a question.
I suspect you put muratic acid in your tank because there was rust.
Do you think WD is going to prevent rust or are you planning on coating the tank?

I have done a few rusted tanks. Phosphoric acid is usually used. This will give the inside a flash coating of iron phosphate. After that I use POR15 for a coating so gasoline is never exposed the bare metal.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 02:46 PM   #5
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Also phosphoric acid has preferential reaction with rust and stops at bare metal; muriatic does not.

Gasoline would wash away WD40 first time you fill tank.
As you use up gas, bare metal of tank would be exposed to air and moisture.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 04:56 PM   #6
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Boom! JacRyan with another solid response!
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Old February 19th, 2018, 01:20 PM   #7
austinninjabill
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Sorry for belated reply all. The email notice ended up in my spam folder.

I used muratic acid because there was rust and gelled up gas -- it had been sitting since 2003 -- and because I've used it before on car tanks, most recently on my '73 911.

Didn't coat it, but may go back and do it now because . . . .

. . . . it lives!

After flushing tank, rebuilding carbs, removing airbox and replacing with pod, flushing the entire crankcase with Marvells Mystery Oil, I put in new plugs (spraying fogging oil and turning it over without compression to coat the cylinder walls) and the battery (when you pull the airbox, you also pull the battery box, so had my brother build a steel battery box on his bead roller, only 2 seams, very nice work by my sibling), I crossed my fingers, hit the starter and after about 5-6 five second cycles (per owners manual), the carbs were fully primed and it turned right over, revs all the way up to 13,000 rpm and idles steady at 1,500 rpm.

Now I have the brake calipers and master cylinders are off the bike to be rebuilt, then once that is done, test it on the road.
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