Carb woes

[marshallsmith27]

Sorry I must have shared the wrong link lol!

I seriously have had no time to work on the bike from helping out at work. But, I have had a lot of time to think about it.

I currently have 40 pilot and 108 mains and no shims. It ACTUALLY returns to idle and doesn't hang! I does hesitate off idle though sometimes which I assume would go away with shimming. I really think its almost there. I was off today and got a good 2 hours zip typing wires and changing the jets out and I don't work tomorrow so I am going to get some #4 washers and shim the needles.

As y'all can see from the video its almost there. Once its really running I can start ordering the stuff it needs to get it back roady worthy. I have $40 in back taxes on the registration though I went to the licensing office last week to order a tag for it.

Link to original page on YouTube.

I am pretty excited that it starts up doesn't hang or surge anymore and always returns to idle. Now to just correct the lean spot right off idle....

[Bob KellyIII]

that link doesn't work either !

actually it sounds to me like your going way too rich on it ..... but to each their own !
.....as long as your happy with it
....
Bob........

[DannoXYZ]

No need to make links and adding all sorts of quotes around things. Just hit Youtube icon on top of message box

---> <---

Then copy & paste the video-ID from Youtube URL between tags (no spaces):

[ YOUTUBE ]5-YEOTLMJGs[ /YOUTUBE ]

And you end up with this!!!

Link to original page on YouTube.

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by marshallsmith27

Sorry I must have shared the wrong link lol!

I seriously have had no time to work on the bike from helping out at work. But, I have had a lot of time to think about it.

I currently have 40 pilot and 108 mains and no shims. It ACTUALLY returns to idle and doesn't hang! I does hesitate off idle though sometimes which I assume would go away with shimming. I really think its almost there. I was off today and got a good 2 hours zip typing wires and changing the jets out and I don't work tomorrow so I am going to get some #4 washers and shim the needles.

As y'all can see from the video its almost there. Once its really running I can start ordering the stuff it needs to get it back roady worthy. I have $40 in back taxes on the registration though I went to the licensing office last week to order a tag for it.

"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-YEOTLMJGs"

I am pretty excited that it starts up doesn't hang or surge anymore and always returns to idle. Now to just correct the lean spot right off idle....

marshallsmith27 drop both muffler see change

[Bob KellyIII]

thanks Danno ! now I can see what he's talkin about....
yah it does sound a bit lean just off idle or what I call a Sogg when giving it the throttle.... shims under the needles might help that.... I really don't know
as I have not played that much with jets on the ninja...
but I do think it could pick up the RPMS a bit faster than it shows in the video

pilot jet larger than stock, main jet larger than stock.... the only time I would do that or even consider doing that is after boring out the cylinders and putting in .20 over pistons and rings..... your messing with the fuel to air ratio that the engine needs to run crisp and quick on throttle responce you need a 14:1 ratio
all through the RPM range if you can get it .... that is where the crispness comes from that 14:1 ratio.... you probably have it at 16:1 to 18:1 now,...
( it should run fine all the way up to 21:1 but it will blacken the plugs fast)
so some sogg on throttle change is expected.... that may well be the best you are going to get with those jets in it.... i'ed put the stock jets back in it myself.
...to me the air filter looks like a good one and not restrictive.. so what does the exhaust smoke look like at idle and when you rev it up ? ...i bet it's quite dark.... if it is, do a color check and see what the plugs look like tan is perfect if you can get it , not white and not sootie or black....
with that kind of air filter on it why did you change the pilot jets to a bigger one.... you should have been able to just adjust the pilot air screw to get a perfect idle.... i don't understand.....

Bob.........

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

thanks Danno ! now I can see what he's talkin about....
yah it does sound a bit lean just off idle or what I call a Sogg when giving it the throttle.... shims under the needles might help that.... I really don't know
as I have not played that much with jets on the ninja...
but I do think it could pick up the RPMS a bit faster than it shows in the video

pilot jet larger than stock, main jet larger than stock.... the only time I would do that or even consider doing that is after boring out the cylinders and putting in .20 over pistons and rings..... your messing with the fuel to air ratio that the engine needs to run crisp and quick on throttle responce you need a 14:1 ratio
all through the RPM range if you can get it .... that is where the crispness comes from that 14:1 ratio.... you probably have it at 16:1 to 18:1 now,...
( it should run fine all the way up to 21:1 but it will blacken the plugs fast)
so some sogg on throttle change is expected.... that may well be the best you are going to get with those jets in it.... i'ed put the stock jets back in it myself.
...to me the air filter looks like a good one and not restrictive.. so what does the exhaust smoke look like at idle and when you rev it up ? ...i bet it's quite dark.... if it is, do a color check and see what the plugs look like tan is perfect if you can get it , not white and not sootie or black....
with that kind of air filter on it why did you change the pilot jets to a bigger one.... you should have been able to just adjust the pilot air screw to get a perfect idle.... i don't understand.....

Bob.........

Bob I highly doubt it at 16:1 as it would be pinging like crazy beside the highest high compression piston you can get 13.5:1 from JE useless you refer to air fuel ratio which need be 14.5 to 14.7 and 16:1 and higher would be lean you end up melting the piston

[Bob KellyIII]

Ahhh ! your right I was thinking the other way... richer not leaner
and I did do leaner.... the internal combustion engine will still run at 21:1 air to fuel ratio.... it won't run good but the mixture will ignite !
just so you know... ( I had to dig up that info ages ago when I was working with HHO to replace the gasoline)
so instead of 14:1 he's probably got...say 12:1 now maybe 11:1....but OFF the mark at any rate.... it will still run but not at optimum efficiency .
.....
so there is a WIDE range at which the engine will still actually run in both directions of fuel to air ratio..... that's my point.... getting it there to 14:1 is not easy the manufacturers had alot of calculating to do to make that happen
.... you can modify an engine so much that you do need to change the jets to make it run right again.... but I don't think he has done that.
so it will actually be running rich....
.....
Bob......

[marshallsmith27]

@Bob KellyIII the link problem this time was my bad. I posted that response on my phone and I was trying to work on the bike and upload the video and type all at the same time.

@DannoXYZ Now I feel dumb as hell. I didn't realize I was supposed to omit the domain out of the youtube hyperlink thing. Thats why I have always just posted links because it never worked, but now I know why lol

[marshallsmith27]

The reason I went one size up @Bob KellyIII is because with the stock 105 jets it wouldn't freely rev past around 65%-70% without bogging. The 108 got rid of the super lean spot on the incline to redline. I never rode the bike to redline back when I rode it anyway, but thats beside the point. It needs to rev freely to redline no matter what. Now the only thing it seems is the right off idle lean spot.

I am still at 2.5 turns out. I am about to head to home depot and get some washers. I just started the bike up a few minutes ago from sitting all night and it started right up without choke. It didn't get very cold here last night and it was inside the shop so only around 45º. But it still started super easy!
@shspvr I will try that. I am going to build a high level 2-1 exhaust for it some time in the near future so it doesn't get banged around because I really am going to use this bike for trail riding and I don't want to cave in the headers.

I hate theres no way to use my bike jack on this bike. since theres no engine cradle theres no where to place the lift

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by marshallsmith27

I hate theres no way to use my bike jack on this bike. since theres no engine cradle theres no where to place the lift

You need look for Sport Bike Motorcycle Front & Rear Combo Wheel Lift Stands Fork & Swingarm Stands Paddock Stands ho and Swingarm Slider Spools
See below photo

[marshallsmith27]

They're only about $100 I might get some of those soon. I thought those were a lot more than that. for now I am just using the winch in the ceiling to lift it when I need to lol

[Bob KellyIII]

or you could make your own....
this rear stand for the ninja cost me nothing but a bit of time....
I had the metal and the welder and the welding rod, so I made one up
it works great now, at first it was too narrow so I added the wider tubes to it and that cured the problem.

....
Bob.....

[marshallsmith27]

that’s something if I told my dad about he would try to make it right away haha.

I’m going to look into making one maybe.

I bought the washers. so if they don’t do anything I do have a question. doesn’t the A/F screw only make adjustments on lower RPM’s? like it doesn’t have an effect above so many RPM’s?

[Bob KellyIII]

yes... you are correct .the A/F screws on the bottom of the carburetors ( the ones that are so hard to get to to turn...) only effect the idle and just above idle ( to a max of 3000 RPM)
.....
I think Danno posted a picture that showed where the jets and all the orifices in the carb had their effect in RPM.... that is very important to understand what they do and when they do it....
...I can hear you thinking it... so yes you might adjust the air screws out a bit and get that sogg out of there just by opening up the air screws a bit....
... so the airscrews adjust the idle mixture and it does effect the running going into mid range..... the area where your experiencing the lean spot as you put it..... so yes experiment with it, open both airscrews 1/2 a turn and see if that hesitation goes away.... it may well do that !
....
on my bike I have found I have had to go a long way open from the stock setting in the manual.... I have no idea why... but sense doing that it is running better than it ever has !
so for me the stock setting given in the manual is not right !
( it is given as a reference only, in the manual and you are supposed to adjust the idle to maximum RPM on each carb by the A/F screw plus a little bit.)
in doing that you'll have to re set the idle adjustment and get it to about 700 RPM and then adjust the A/F screw to max RPM for that cylinder and then do the same thing for the other cylinder.
at that point there should be no sogg, or hesitation off idle.
.... I was hesitant on doing that adjustment because of my poor hearing but I could hear the RPM change easily, you'll have no problems hearing it speed up or slow down.
....
I would like to see what your bike does when you grab a big handful of throttle fast and open the throttle to at least half way.....
don't over rev the engine, but to me it sounds like the sogg would be much more pronounced.... you were just barely giving it throttle and that makes it hard to tell....
so... we know it's working good on top end (RPM) on the stand but we don't know if it is working that good under a load ( actually riding it)
Yes I think your almost there.... give those air screws 1/2 a turn out and see if that hesitation goes away !
......
Bob.....

[DannoXYZ]

Yeah, mixture-screws really only adjust idle. Once you crack open throttle, it's pilot jets that take over.

Pinging/knocking occurs under load when multiple flame-fronts are ignited. This is caused by formation of radical alkyl groups which only arise under intense heat and pressure. These radical-alkyls are extremely unstable and ignite on their own. When these multiple fronts collide, it generates intense pressure and heat at that location. Causes the popcorn kernel in cans sound we associate with it.

But when you're free-revving engine with no load, it's not gonna ping no matter how lean it gets. It'll just sputter and die if it's too lean.

I've gotten good extra MPG by programming in 16-16.5:1 AFR under steady-state cruising zones. Anything more than 50% throttle, it'll go back to 14:1 and above 75%, 13.5:1 is where max-power is generated on NA engines.

In this case, I suspect further carb-cleaning is needed. Bike ran perfect fine off show-room floor with factory jet sizes. It can again once carbs are factory-fresh clean. Did you poke out lateral bleed-holes in pilot-jets? Dried-petrol form plastic-plugs and you'll push them out like little grains of sand. Also work from other end and poke out bleed-holes in carb-venturi.

[Bob KellyIII]

the funny thing about cars and gas mileage is that for my toyota 2wd truck to cruse down the road at 60mph it only takes about 20hp to do that.....
most big tuna boat cars only take about 25~30 hp just because of the weight
.... so if your feeding a 300hp motor it's all wasted ! a motorcycle takes way less to cruse at 60mph.... something like 10hp if I remember correctly
even if it's a 2 wheeled motorhome ! obviously these figures were done with the same shape in the wind tunnel at Berkley I think it was...
but the areo dynamic drag is what gets you in crusing a bus is probably the worst but it is not that much more hp because of the speed it was calculated at.... increase that speed and the hp needed goes up quickly
but I was shocked when I discovered that.... I turned my big pontiac Bonneville brohm v-8 car into a 4 cylinder and blocked off the valves and i was supposed to get something like 4 times the gas mileage I was geting.... well, you can't believe everything you read.... I only got a increase of 5 MPG ! as much as 10 MPG on a good day... but not the 50MPG plus that they said I would get...so I put all the stuff back in there and sold the car getting 25mpg ! ....which wasn't bad for a tuna boat !
....
Bob.....

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

the funny thing about cars and gas mileage is that for my toyota 2wd truck to cruse down the road at 60mph it only takes about 20hp to do that.....
most big tuna boat cars only take about 25~30 hp just because of the weight
.... so if your feeding a 300hp motor it's all wasted ! a motorcycle takes way less to cruse at 60mph.... something like 10hp if I remember correctly
even if it's a 2 wheeled motorhome ! obviously these figures were done with the same shape in the wind tunnel at Berkley I think it was...
but the areo dynamic drag is what gets you in crusing a bus is probably the worst but it is not that much more hp because of the speed it was calculated at.... increase that speed and the hp needed goes up quickly
but I was shocked when I discovered that.... I turned my big pontiac Bonneville brohm v-8 car into a 4 cylinder and blocked off the valves and i was supposed to get something like 4 times the gas mileage I was geting.... well, you can't believe everything you read.... I only got a increase of 5 MPG ! as much as 10 MPG on a good day... but not the 50MPG plus that they said I would get...so I put all the stuff back in there and sold the car getting 25mpg ! ....which wasn't bad for a tuna boat !
....
Bob.....

Bob you are aware that torque that keep you going to down the road horsepower only come to play after 5200rpm which is the transition point for horsepower to overtake torque the same apply to motorcycle many other gas engine.
Diesel curve has a low transition point around 100 thru 3000rpm or not at all depend on bore and stroke of the engine they can very just like with multifuel engine and big 2-stroke hot-bulb etc.
Gearing plays a key role in order to get the most MPG without lugging engine down too much.

6.0 AFR - Rich Burn Limit (Engine Fully Warm)
9.0 AFR - Black Smoke (Low Power)
11.5 AFR - Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle
12.2 AFR - Safe Best Power at Wide Open Throttle
13.3 AFR - Lean Best Torque
14.7 AFR - Best Air/Fuel Ratio Value
---- Everything below this point produces more engine heat ----
15.5 AFR - Lean Cruise
16.5 AFR - Usual Best Economy
18.0 AFR - Carbureted Max Lean Burn Limit (I don't recommend this hot of tune)
22+ AFR - EEC / EFI Lean Burn Limit

In case you didn.t know Diesel curve .2 lower then gas it sweet spot 14.5

[marshallsmith27]

So I went outside before work today I went out to the shop to adjust the A/F screws out some and for some reason the bike didn’t want to run right. It was very draggy through all the RPM’s and just wanted to die constantly. I guess overnight something trickled down into the carbs from the bench aux gas bottle tank. Weird though because it ran just like the video all yesterday. I sprayed some accelerant all over the intake boots and carbs and it’s not a leak so it must be clogged again…

I noticed the left diagram when I took them out to shim the needle didn’t want to seat into the round channel that it seats in (like it was too big) so I swapped them from carb to carb and the right one doesn’t want to fit either �� not sure what that’s about.

I couldn’t get any time in today before work because there were tornadoes and the wind was wild and I didn’t want to be out there. It blew my 20’ a frame ladder off the rack and hit the shop lol. that’s how windy it was.

[Bob KellyIII]

Sounds like you soaked the diaphragms in WD40 to me, they will swell if you do that ! ...... did you ?
..... Aurgh !
Bob......

[Bob KellyIII]

Originally Posted by shspvr

Bob you are aware that torque that keep you going to down the road horsepower only come to play after 5200rpm which is the transition point for horsepower to overtake torque the same apply to motorcycle many other gas engine.
Diesel curve has a low transition point around 100 thru 3000rpm or not at all depend on bore and stroke of the engine they can very just like with multifuel engine and big 2-stroke hot-bulb etc.
Gearing plays a key role in order to get the most MPG without lugging engine down too much.

6.0 AFR - Rich Burn Limit (Engine Fully Warm)
9.0 AFR - Black Smoke (Low Power)
11.5 AFR - Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle
12.2 AFR - Safe Best Power at Wide Open Throttle
13.3 AFR - Lean Best Torque
14.7 AFR - Best Air/Fuel Ratio Value
---- Everything below this point produces more engine heat ----
15.5 AFR - Lean Cruise
16.5 AFR - Usual Best Economy
18.0 AFR - Carbureted Max Lean Burn Limit (I don't recommend this hot of tune)
22+ AFR - EEC / EFI Lean Burn Limit

In case you didn.t know Diesel curve .2 lower then gas it sweet spot 14.5

Yes but you cannot seperate HP from torque so it's easier to say 15 hp is all it takes to go 60 mph in a 2000lb car once it is up to speed....
and yah those AFR figures look about right.... about only one setting in there that works ! ... the rest are not optimum ! it will run, but....well there it is !

Bob......

[Bob KellyIII]

when I was growing up big engines were in their hay-day ...everyone wanted one and most already had them.... then came the economy of driving a big engine car.... it cost alot ! and people tried gillions of things to get better gas mileage ....me included but there is no substitute for starting with a smaller engine in the first place ! ....
My Late father in law got over 50 mpg in his Honda accord when they went on a vacation across the USA at near 80 mph most the way....
that was the same year that the auto manufacturers testified before congress that there is no way any car could be made to get over 50 mpg....
so congress was lied to, and so on...
....
the reason to have a big engine is to accelerate UP to cruising speed fast
if you can be happy with getting to cruising speed slower then get a smaller engine.... they almost always get better mileage stock !
...but it's all a scam... they have the technology to give us over 200 mpg on the average car right now.... but it would hurt THEIR pocket book... so they don't do it....
besides every high mucky muck in the car manufacturing business owns stock in oil companies and they want to see them do well.....
that is why gas prices continue to rise and it won't stop till they have no gas to sell........it's the American way.... GREED out the kazoo !
....
Bob.....

[marshallsmith27]

I absolutely did not soak them in anything. the day before when I shimmed the needles was the first time the diaphragms had been taken out of the carbs in almost a week. I have never even owned WD-40. we have always had Kroil and Jet Lube and 2-26 in the shop. Even so I never sprayed them.

I did get the diaphragm back in but it took 2 or 3 minutes. I just got off work so I will try and work on it some more before work this evening. But it cant be one swollen anyway I wouldn't think. Thats what I thought initially thats why I swapped them around and both are like that in the left carb body. I'll see more later today

[Bob KellyIII]

Some times it can be very hard to get the diaphragms back in correctly....
I've had that problem before.... and I think it was due to my use of WD40 on the diaphragms of a older machine before I heard that that was a no-no.....
it was the first CV carbed bike I ever had and I was quite young at the time still in highschool I think.... I had to put the cap on at an angle and stuff the diaphragm in all the way around it....it was a pain in the ass...LOL
but they did go back together it just took a while to get them stuffed in there and the cap on... yah they were too big but they worked real good afterword !
so if that's the only problem you have with them your good to go...
if your swapping parts back and forth between the carburetors just be sure you check the numbers on the things and make sure their the same ... some times their not ! ...just be careful ! LOL
....
still too cold to ride here... but I went out to the shop and turned on the key on the Ninja and hit the starter and it fired up immediately no hesitation at all even without the choke !..... and it was idling ay 700 rpm first time I ever saw it idle that slow HA ! ..... so I'll change the oil AFTER i fix the petcock or replace it.... ...but I think I'll wait till next month before I order parts
.... but that Ninja of mine is running real good now ! i am delighted !
.....
Bob.....

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

when I was growing up big engines were in their hay-day ...everyone wanted one and most already had them.... then came the economy of driving a big engine car.... it cost alot ! and people tried gillions of things to get better gas mileage ....me included but there is no substitute for starting with a smaller engine in the first place ! ....
My Late father in law got over 50 mpg in his Honda accord when they went on a vacation across the USA at near 80 mph most the way....
that was the same year that the auto manufacturers testified before congress that there is no way any car could be made to get over 50 mpg....
so congress was lied to, and so on...
....
the reason to have a big engine is to accelerate UP to cruising speed fast
if you can be happy with getting to cruising speed slower then get a smaller engine.... they almost always get better mileage stock !
...but it's all a scam... they have the technology to give us over 200 mpg on the average car right now.... but it would hurt THEIR pocket book... so they don't do it....
besides every high mucky muck in the car manufacturing business owns stock in oil companies and they want to see them do well.....
that is why gas prices continue to rise and it won't stop till they have no gas to sell........it's the American way.... GREED out the kazoo !
....
Bob.....

I high doubt your late father-in-law got over 50 mpg out of his Honda Accord when a I had a 1978 (Love this car but got stolen) and 2002 Honda Civic which are smaller car then Accord and it couldn't even hit 40mpg out of.

Sure, it's possible we can get 50 miles per-gallon out of a small 1.5L 4 cylinder but you also have to in factor in coefficient drag, weight and rolling resistance and whether or not you're going be on flat, uphill or downhill even today hybrid car can barely get too actual 50 miles per-gallon in real world user data then we have Miles Per Gallon electric vehicles known as MPGe and EV owners. Unlike mpg, the lower the kWh number / per-100 miles, the better it is then the cost of owner ship and repair of two in long run vs, gas vehicles which are still 40% cheap over the course of its life span of 15 years with all gas and general maintenance and wear and tear items that are factored in for 250k miles, god help when EV Battery or Motor and electronics it can be a nightmare to diagnose and or goes out of warranty.

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by marshallsmith27

So I went outside before work today I went out to the shop to adjust the A/F screws out some and for some reason the bike didn’t want to run right. It was very draggy through all the RPM’s and just wanted to die constantly. I guess overnight something trickled down into the carbs from the bench aux gas bottle tank. Weird though because it ran just like the video all yesterday. I sprayed some accelerant all over the intake boots and carbs and it’s not a leak so it must be clogged again…

I noticed the left diagram when I took them out to shim the needle didn’t want to seat into the round channel that it seats in (like it was too big) so I swapped them from carb to carb and the right one doesn’t want to fit either �� not sure what that’s about.

I couldn’t get any time in today before work because there were tornadoes and the wind was wild and I didn’t want to be out there. It blew my 20’ a frame ladder off the rack and hit the shop lol. that’s how windy it was.

Are you referring to actual rubber diagram that glue to slide? or slide itself is not seating or if you can post a photo.
Yup we have heavy 20mph+ wind here in Oklahoma it so bad when rode my ninja 250 outside the city limit, I had been blown of the roadway into the next lane

[ducatiman]

Originally Posted by shspvr

Are you referring to actual rubber diagram that glue to slide?

seriously......GLUE?

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by ducatiman

seriously......GLUE?

They didn't come off being it look like a over size giant plastic washer factory press on or glue over rubber on the spared carburetors set I have and don't seem come off like like old CB450 and 750 vacuum style did.
One of them has a tear in on outer lip with some kind glue for repair for seal it.

[ducatiman]

Originally Posted by shspvr

They didn't come off being it look like a over size giant plastic washer factory press on or glue over rubber on the spared carburetors set I have and don't seem come off like like old CB450 and 750 vacuum style did.
One of them has a tear in on outer lip with some kind glue for repair for seal it.

in which case your carbs have been messed with/modded by a previous rocket scientist/carb expert. The answer? Install new diaphragms on both slides.

BTW....there is no application for glue being used on diaphragms. Just because yours were so erroneously modded, doesn't create a "new normal" that applies to everyone, does it?

[DannoXYZ]

Yeah, someone messed with yours. No glue needed. They sit in deep slot at end of slide.

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by ducatiman

in which case your carbs have been messed with/modded by a previous rocket scientist/carb expert. The answer? Install new diaphragms on both slides.

BTW....there is no application for glue being used on diaphragms. Just because yours were so erroneously modded, doesn't create a "new normal" that applies to everyone, does it?

previous rocket scientist

[Bob KellyIII]

Originally Posted by shspvr

I high doubt your late father-in-law got over 50 mpg out of his Honda Accord when a I had a 1978 (Love this car but got stolen) and 2002 Honda Civic which are smaller car then Accord and it couldn't even hit 40mpg out of.

Sure, it's possible we can get 50 miles per-gallon out of a small 1.5L 4 cylinder but you also have to in factor in coefficient drag, weight and rolling resistance and whether or not you're going be on flat, uphill or downhill even today hybrid car can barely get too actual 50 miles per-gallon in real world user data then we have Miles Per Gallon electric vehicles known as MPGe and EV owners. Unlike mpg, the lower the kWh number / per-100 miles, the better it is then the cost of owner ship and repair of two in long run vs, gas vehicles which are still 40% cheap over the course of its life span of 15 years with all gas and general maintenance and wear and tear items that are factored in for 250k miles, god help when EV Battery or Motor and electronics it can be a nightmare to diagnose and or goes out of warranty.

LOL.... Ok I'm not trying to convince you as you've already made up your mind on the subject ... they got a consistent 43 MPG going to town from Lakehead (Redding was Town) ca. 40mpg doing stop and go town running and 51 to 53 on trips.... my Sheriff father in law never lied in his life and I have no reason to believe he did here either !.... it was a 1980...something
1988 perhaps not sure.... they took it to the dealer to get serviced as he always had done because he didn't even know how to change the oil or own the tools to do the job.... that man got the officer of the year award a decade or 2 ago for climbing out on the under side of a bridge and talking a guy out of committing suicide..... he said he was scared too... and I laughed.... because that man was not scared of anything.
a great man and we will miss him he was like a Dad to me albeit reluctantly LOL......
.....
Bob.......

[marshallsmith27]

Bought a compression tester right now. I should have the rest of the day to work on it!

[DannoXYZ]

If compression tester uses adapter to fit into 10mm spark hole, make sure to Loctite adapter to end of hose. A lot of times, when unscrewing hose after test, adapter will unscrew from
hose and stay in head.

[marshallsmith27]

https://ibb.co/qRFJk5k
https://ibb.co/f8b07cp

Insanely bad compression. right and then left cylinder. How is this possible with so little mileage??

[Bob KellyIII]

Valves too tight ?
....
Bob....

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by marshallsmith27

https://ibb.co/qRFJk5k
https://ibb.co/f8b07cp

Insanely bad compression. right and then left cylinder. How is this possible with so little mileage??

There can be one three thing
Valves not sitting on the seats or the Valve lash is too tight
Worn out Rings
Worn out Cylinder Liner

[Bob KellyIII]

what is the mileage on the bike Marshall ???
i'm betting on valves not seating.... or too tight.
....
Bob.....

[marshallsmith27]

Valves being too tight is out of the question because I checked them with a brand new digital torque wrench on three separate days....

The bike has 3,800 miles currently.

I will check the valves again but before I put the valve cover on the third time I checked the lashing once more because four times is better than three.

I just wouldn't expect this bike to have so little compression. It was practically never ridden.

[Bob KellyIII]

you said it was running good now right ? it wouldn't with 70 PSI compression i don't think....... I say the gauge is faulty !
Run it like that and see if it improves or gets worse....
....
Bob......

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by marshallsmith27

Valves being too tight is out of the question because I checked them with a brand new digital torque wrench on three separate days....

The bike has 3,800 miles currently.

I will check the valves again but before I put the valve cover on the third time I checked the lashing once more because four times is better than three.

I just wouldn't expect this bike to have so little compression. It was practically never ridden.

When you did the compression test did hold the throttle wide open ?.