Lightening her up, part II

[Chicagobob]

Originally Posted by Jetfoi

@Chicagobob did you cut the side fairings to make them shorter?

Yep. They are easy to cut with a jigsaw (hacksaw or plywood blade) or Dremel cutting wheel, and touch up with a belt or disk sander. We left the bottom bolts in place to secure them to the bike. Parts of them (near the bolts) are painted flat black.

[Jetfoi]

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

Yep. They are easy to cut with a jigsaw (hacksaw or plywood blade) or Dremel cutting wheel, and we left the bottom bolts in place to secure them to the bike. Parts of them (near the bolts) are painted flat black.

Awesome thanks for the pointer

[Chicagobob]

We spent a few hours this weekend replacing our 7" headlight with a 5" Bates-style one we got for about $45 from Amazon. These lights are becoming more common in cafe and scrambler builds, so we thought we'd try it. It reduces the front profile of the bike, and is also lighter. It's a bottom-mount light that mounts to the horn bolts on the bike's lower triple clamp, with a small aluminum bracket we made. We remounted the turn signals to the coil bolts (near where they were on the bike originally).

Surprisingly, this light seems just as bright as the larger one.




That rear mudguard is is also new. It's made from formed 1/16" aluminum and a dirtbike fender extender with a tiny LED tail and brake light. We also swapped the cafe-style rear turn signals with little lights mounted in the ends of the frame tubes. It's all very lightweight, and the mudguard protects the rider's back from the prodigious amounts of moisture on the roads around here, especially this time of year.


Anyhow, the bike's up and running around. Just need some decent weather.

[csmith12]

[crazymadbastard]

Getting better and better!

[fast1075]

I just can't get past the look of the nekkid frame tubes in the back. The rest looks great.

[DanielObrien42]

Originally Posted by fast1075

I just can't get past the look of the nekkid frame tubes in the back. The rest looks great.

And that's the part I liked best, the naked frame. Would like to see more of it.

[fishdip]

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

I didn't want to delve into exhaust and intake mods, because this is a LOW budget build - the bike cost $1,500, I had the headlight and signals, the taillight was $20, the Trail Tech gauge was $95 used, and I hope to sell some of the removed parts to get a little back from that.

What was the part number for the gauge and was it a direct fit?

[UnshavenCanuck]

Originally Posted by fast1075

I just can't get past the look of the nekkid frame tubes in the back. The rest looks great.

I didn't like that look either. Thought it distracted from everything else so I got daring one day and chopped them out. Found pipe that slipped over the original support and bent it a little and welded her all up.

image.jpg

[alex.s]

looks really good!

[CynicalC]

Originally Posted by UnshavenCanuck

I didn't like that look either. Thought it distracted from everything else so I got daring one day and chopped them out. Found pipe that slipped over the original support and bent it a little and welded her all up.

Attachment 36032

Do you have a close-up of your exhaust hanger? Why didn't you shorten the seat at the same time?

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by UnshavenCanuck

I didn't like that look either. Thought it distracted from everything else so I got daring one day and chopped them out. Found pipe that slipped over the original support and bent it a little and welded her all up.

Attachment 36032

I chopped mine up and came up with some C shaped supports.
Click VVVV

[UnshavenCanuck]

Originally Posted by CynicalC

Do you have a close-up of your exhaust hanger? Why didn't you shorten the seat at the same time?

Look closer. How much more could I have shortened it lol.
Hangars are just some nuts and 1/4" rod welded up and powdercoated

[CynicalC]

Originally Posted by UnshavenCanuck

Look closer. How much more could I have shortened it lol.
Hangars are just some nuts and 1/4" rod welded up and powdercoated

Oh I see. I didn't realize it was a tailpiece. I thought it was just red vinyl stretched over the seat or something.

[Chicagobob]

We recently made a new bracket and remounted the Trail Tech Vapor gauge in an offset position. Its a little more compact this way.




Another thing - finally got rid of the yellow rim tape, which I hate. We couldn't figure out how to remove it, so a wide black Sharpie came to the rescue


Also, saw 98 mph on the highway. Couldn't get any more, even with a speedway tuck. 15T front sprocket may be hindering top gear revs.

[Triple Jim]

Good to see you here, Bob. I don't know if you saw my post on the other board about the 250 I did after seeing yours, but I posted in your thread to say thanks.

[JohnnyBravo]

Looks way better without rim tape... Never thought I'd say that

[VaFish]

What handlebars, mounts and cables did you use?

Looking to do a similar thing on one of mine.

[Chicagobob]

Renthal low bars (Ultra or Super Low, can't remember what they call it). Outlaw bar mounts from Amazon (many other types available there, too). We used hex-drive bolts, rather than the bolts supplied by Outlaw, so they could be tightened from above.

Stock cables and wires, with a stock-length Venhill braided steel brake line. I had to reroute the clutch cable a little, I think. It's been a few years.

[acook3323]

[QUOTE=Chicagobob;592913] fabbed a taillight mount and turn signal mounts,

How did you fab the taillight and signal mounts and what did you use? Also wehre did you get the taillight?

[Chicagobob]

[QUOTE=acook3323;1148652]

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

fabbed a taillight mount and turn signal mounts,

How did you fab the taillight and signal mounts and what did you use? Also wehre did you get the taillight?

We used aluminum plate, which we bent and drilled. The light is from Amazon, and cost only about $15. Many similar ones are available there, and from eBay.

[Mohawk]

You might want to remove the paint on the expansion tank just the rectangle between the upper & lower mark lines so you can see what the fluid level is.

Bike does look good.

[acook3323]

[QUOTE=Chicagobob;1148656]

Originally Posted by acook3323

We used aluminum plate, which we bent and drilled. The light is from Amazon, and cost only about $15. Many similar ones are available there, and from eBay.

Where did you mount the aluminum plate?

[acook3323]

[QUOTE=Chicagobob;1148656]

Originally Posted by acook3323

We used aluminum plate, which we bent and drilled. The light is from Amazon, and cost only about $15. Many similar ones are available there, and from eBay.

Where did you mount the aluminum plate?

[Chicagobob]

[QUOTE=acook3323;1149871]

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

Where did you mount the aluminum plate?

Onto the tops of the rear frame rails, behind the crossmember. We originally used a shorter plate, but swapped it out for the "duck tail" fender to help keep our backs dry.


The taillight is mounted (with double-sided foam tape, because its original bolts have failed) to a small aluminum bracket that is bolted to the bottom of this plate, like so:

[MrAtom]

Hey, Bob. I've slowly been seeing more and more of your style of bike on here. I did some of your mods to my bike a while ago, and have since seen more and more in the wild, and a few on Craigslist. You're famous-ish

[Chicagobob]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

Hey, Bob. I've slowly been seeing more and more of your style of bike on here. I did some of your mods to my bike a while ago, and have since seen more and more in the wild, and a few on Craigslist. You're famous-ish

Thanks. It's a really fun bike. Latest mods: CRG Blindsight bar-end mirrors. Very good quality and only $40 each on Amazon:

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

Here's where I mounted the rectifier and ignition modules (you can just see the ignition module peeking out from under the tank, where it's held in place with servo tape and foam):


And here's how I tidied up the undeside of the seat - a piece of sheet aluminum painted black:

I would be very careful mounting your rectifier with servo tape. The rectifier gets damned HOT. Don't believe me put your hand on it after a short ride. Also, make sure your rectifier has plenty of cooling air moving over it. I LIKE YOUR BIKE!!! I'm riding mine without the fairing right now waiting for some eBay parts but I'm getting to like it without the fairing. If you have any of the fairing stuff you want to unload "billalbertson@mail.com". Keep up the good work!

Cheers,

Bill

[Cra1g]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

I would be very careful mounting your rectifier with servo tape. The rectifier gets damned HOT. Don't believe me put your hand on it after a short ride. Also, make sure your rectifier has plenty of cooling air moving over it.

I can never trust tape, no matter how strong it is. I also mounted my R/R exactly where ChicagoBob has his, but instead of tape, I cut off the original mount from the wheel well and Gorilla Glued it to the Airbox. Works great.

Also, yes; you want to make sure plenty of air is getting to it, BUT a stock Ninja 250 has it hidden under fairings anyway where I'm assuming not a whole lot of air can get to it, so I wouldn't be too worried about it.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Cra1g

I can never trust tape, no matter how strong it is. I also mounted my R/R exactly where ChicagoBob has his, but instead of tape, I cut off the original mount from the wheel well and Gorilla Glued it to the Airbox. Works great.

Also, yes; you want to make sure plenty of air is getting to it, BUT a stock Ninja 250 has it hidden under fairings anyway where I'm assuming not a whole lot of air can get to it, so I wouldn't be too worried about it.

Sounds like you've got it covered. I'll have to try that Gorilla glue someday.

Bill

[Rielen]

Pretty late to the party but I was curious how you went about fabricating your aluminum sheets.. any particular tools?? Are they all 1/16" thick? all the ones near me at like lowes are so thin. Also did you end up keeping the original rear fender? I'm having alot of issues trying to replicate what you did with the fender extender.. would this work similarly? (except removing the light) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLNOH1I...=2C9AOJJEB0HUS

[Chicagobob]

I'm not sure how thick mine is, but I've used 1/16 and 1/32, aluminum plate, which you can get from various eBay sellers. Hardware stores don't usually carry it. I've been able to get a 24" X 24" plate on occasion. It is very useful for fabrication.

And that looks exactly like the Acerbis light we used.

[Chicagobob]

So, inspired by Rielen's $10 Amazon Acerbis knockoff dirt bike taillight/fender from this thread, we decided to again change the rear of the ultralight Ninjette cafe/scrambler. The idea was to control rainwater spray while adding as little bulk as possible to the rear of the bike. This light weighs only a few ounces, looks sleek, and is bright.

We replaced the $6 Chinese taillight and plate aluminum license holder with the dirt bike item, but then what to do about the license plate? Fortunately, we had one of those bobber-style axle mounted plate brackets. It needed a little trimming to thin the mounting hole area enough to allow the axle nut to fully seat, but it fits, and the curve even matches the bike's 16" wheel, so on it went:

[Chicagobob]

Originally Posted by Cra1g

I can never trust tape, no matter how strong it is. I also mounted my R/R exactly where ChicagoBob has his, but instead of tape, I cut off the original mount from the wheel well and Gorilla Glued it to the Airbox. Works great.

Also, yes; you want to make sure plenty of air is getting to it, BUT a stock Ninja 250 has it hidden under fairings anyway where I'm assuming not a whole lot of air can get to it, so I wouldn't be too worried about it.

We did the same, but instead of glue, we used self-tapping sheet metal screws to mount the R/R mount to the airbox. Also, the ECU is now in the battery box with the Ballistic 4-cell dry battery.

[Cra1g]

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

Also, the ECU is now in the battery box with the Ballistic 4-cell dry battery.

I need to do this. My ECU is just sitting freely where the tool tray would go. It works, but it's probably not ideal.

[Kool-aid]

Chicagobob, found your bike in google image search months ago. You have been my inspiration for my build. I cannot find the pic of how you mounted the brain and rectifier. I'm guessing the battery looks to be in the stock position as well as the fuse box. Love how you trimmed the side pieces. Looks good. Just the right amount of naked.

[Chicagobob]

Originally Posted by Kool-aid

Chicagobob, found your bike in google image search months ago. You have been my inspiration for my build. I cannot find the pic of how you mounted the brain and rectifier. I'm guessing the battery looks to be in the stock position as well as the fuse box. Love how you trimmed the side pieces. Looks good. Just the right amount of naked.

Here's the pic:

Since this was taken, we switched to a Ballistic 4-cell battery, very small and light, which is in the battery box, leaving room for the ECU in there also. The rectifier is still bolted to the airbox like it is in this photo. We cut out the part of the rear fender that had the rectifier mounting lugs, and screwed it to the airbox with sheet metal screws.

We've also since painted the coolant reservoir silver.

[SRoehr]

Originally Posted by Chicagobob

Some folks have asked for details of how we mounted the Trail Tech Vapor to the steering lock housing, so here they are:

We trimmed the lower tab of the Trail Tech mount, ground it thinner, and slipped it under the shroud. You can bend the mount to get the viewing angle you want:


Then we drilled through the whole thing and screwed in a couple of small bolts (which really aren't the right type, but they were the only small stainless bolts we had at the time):


You can see that the gauge is very close to the headlight (so much so that the air temp usually reads high from the headlight's heat), and that it could have been mounted directly to the headlight bucket with spacers.
Hope this helps.

Chicago Bob, do you know which model vapor you installed? My son hit a deer witg his bike and now wants to rebuild as a cafe style. I've never worked on bikes so this is all new to me. We installed the headlight, no just need to replace the gauges and figure out how to wired it all! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

[Chicagobob]

Originally Posted by SRoehr

Chicago Bob, do you know which model vapor you installed? My son hit a deer witg his bike and now wants to rebuild as a cafe style. I've never worked on bikes so this is all new to me. We installed the headlight, no just need to replace the gauges and figure out how to wired it all! Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Any of them will work. But call Trail Tech to get the correct tach wire (with a built-in resistor) for your model of bike. The pregen works particularly well with the Trail Tech dashboard because the bike's indicator lights fit into the back of the Trail Tech board, so you don't have to cut and splice any of the wires.

[Kool-aid]

Thank you very much. I'll throw the airbox back in. I was going to go with the two cone air filters, but seems like using the airbox for a the battery box as well as a mounting surface works great. I'm gonna pull the fender and trim it up as well. I am very sorry for copy catting your build. bike looks great and everything you've done is amazing. I will be doing some differences for the lights front and back, so they will be a little different =)

this front light
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1YO4CUGMH8FEZ

this rear light
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ARHL164GNCEO7

and these turns
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2O0WRO2IFEXV7

I will be running the same look for handlebars. its a great look. and the trailtech looks great. I'm going to try the cheap knockoff first. Its 40.00. I'm sure i will hate myself for it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AY1GFLIL9VDFX