chain making noise gets loose...tight..

[davidw38901]

so a little background info...that may matter or not...
after makeing a rear fender elim i was two up and my rear tire came up ripped the lic plate and it got stuck by the shock my tire a sport demon got rubber missing all the way around it.... pretty uniform...damage to the tire

so now about month later i noticed my tire is rubbing on the derailler just a little.. so i tryed to line up the tire again... so i thought i had it lined up now when i ride
i hear and feel a metal click.. every revoltion...maybe
now when i have the bike on the stand and test for chain slack there one spot were it gets really tight..the rest is in spec...when it gets to this tight spot you can hear a metal to metal grinding sound...

so what do you think is wrong?

[TnNinjaGirl]

Stretched chain or sprocket is out of round. If the tire was bound then id suspect a stretched chain.
Posted via Mobile Device

[davidw38901]

so it's nothing major than ..like whatever the spoket connected to is bent

[alex.s]

you dont take care of your chain. replace the chain and sprockets and use lube more often. if you dont, it will get worse and worse and will lead to some real damage.

[davidw38901]

so i am gonna get a 15t spoc no probleam there
but the prices on chains vary alot i found this i can afford it just want to make sure it's the right chain
http://www.powersportparts.net/Produ...Code=TR18-1763
anyone let me use there chain tools?

[Motofool]

David,

You may need to replace the rear sprocket as well.

Read this:

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Sprocke..._Chain_Options

[davidw38901]

my rear spock look good and they are much more expensive why do i need to replace it?
well it's about the same as the front so nvm about the price

[davidw38901]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...7CGRP2035_____
was the chain lube i used allmost every full tank =once a week=250 miles...

[Motofool]

Normally, when the chain wears out and suffers some elongation, it damages the original shape of the teeth of the front and rear sprockets.

If you have lubricated your chain that well, then your problem may be different and the chain and sprockets may be still good.

I would inspect the chain link by link trying to find some kink, corrosion or frozen link.

Do you have the manual?
The manual shows how to measure the chain in order to verify if its elongation has reached the specified limit or not:

Hang a 20 lbs weight from the midpoint of the lower chain.
Measure the distance of 20 links (or 21 pins).
Repeat the measurement until the full length of the chain is covered.
If any of the distances is more than 12.7 inches, the chain should be replaced.

Before measuring the slack of the chain, you should find that point at which the chain gets more tension and you should provide the proper slack only for that position of the rear wheel.

In other words: the chain should have a minimum slack of 1.5" for any position of the chain around the sprockets. Otherwise, the chain, sprockets and bearings will be overloaded when the bike squats in normal operation, leading to premature wear or failure of those parts.

Now, if after completing that adjustment and turning the wheel around and repeating measurements, the measured maximum slack is way too big (something around 2.5"), then you have a problem.

For sliding the wheel back and forth and for any alignment, the bolts of the torque link should be loose, besides the axle nut.

[davidw38901]

moto... thats the probleam i am haveing when it gets to the tight spot i try to adj chain slack to spec ...it makes everything else to loose...

[Motofool]

How much is too loose?

If it happens for each turn of the tire, the rear sprocket is not perfectly round anymore.

If it happens several times for each turn of the tire, the front sprocket or the shaft are the problem.

If it happens after the tire is rotated more than one time, the problem may be an uneven elongation of the chain.

[davidw38901]

the tight spot ... only happens one time on the chain as it goes around the metel to metal sound comes from the front spocket...when that part of the chain get to it..
as long as it not on that one spot everything seems to be fine... as long as i adjust for chain slack when it's not on that tight spot
and just for the sake of asking how hard.. to replace and find to buy is the shaft?

[Motofool]

It seems that the problem is only in a section of the chain then.

In order to replace the shaft, the whole engine has to be open, but according to your description, that is not the problem.

I would measure the 21 pins as explained above.
Then, if the chain is withing acceptable specs, I would clean that section with kerosene and will lubricate it with automatic transmission fluid, just in case it is repairable.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Motofool

automatic transmission fluid

huh? never heard of using atf before on a chain? what is the purpose? what exactly is atf? its like 90 weight oil right?

[davidw38901]

for some reason i don't know why but i have been just spraying more and more lube one my chain... never cleaning it...

so it was really dirty so after cleaning it i used reg gas....
i lubed it up wiped it down...lubed it up wiped it down....

the chains 'tight spot' is not as tight as it was it's still to tight
it still makes the noise and that bump feeling....when rideing...i want to take a video of it later so u guys might hear it ...
i also noticed that some of my pins are missing o rings..... weired...guess another reason to buy a new chain...


so here that video warning.....2 min of looking at moveing chain... you have to listen closely when you see the chain backup then move foward listen for a squeek and a pop...
i have no idea what kind of chain it is or the millage.. it has on it...
http://youtu.be/POsuV4FnaG8
after watching the video... i can't really hear it that well try for another one when it not so much noise....
but i gotta go to work for now...

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by alex.s

huh? never heard of using atf before on a chain? what is the purpose? what exactly is atf? its like 90 weight oil right?

Yes, Alex, that is what I have been using for years, with very good results.

It is the best preserver of O-rings and being so light, it stays on the chain.
It also keeps the chain clean and Florida sand and road debris don't stick to it.

Copied from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automat...smission_fluid

"The fluid is a highly specialized oil optimized for the special requirements of a transmission, such as valve operation, brake band friction and the torque converter as well as gear lubrication.
ATF is also used as a hydraulic fluid in some power assisted steering systems, as a lubricant in some 4WD transfer cases, and in some modern manual transmissions."

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by davidw38901

i have no idea what kind of chain it is or the millage.. it has on it...

David,

The video showed three important things to me:

1) The chain is frozen in some sections (lack of lubrication, rust, etc.). Gasoline is not good for cleaning; use a plastic brush and kerosene, WD-40, ATF or even hot oil.

2) The master link is a clip type: If the chain is O-ring type, that link is dangerous, unless you wrap some thin safety wire around the clip in order to prevent it to open up while riding. If the chain is non-O-ring type, it is OK, but the wax type lubricants are not good for that type of chain; they need hot thin oil.

3) The rear sprocket has shark teeth. Those will damage any new chain. The damage was done by the elongation of this or a previous chain. Did you measure this chain yet? You can flip the sprocket or buy a new one if you replace the chain.

Check this link:
http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.htm

[alex.s]

i think its time for a new set of sprockets and a new chain

[davidw38901]

http://www.powersportparts.net/Produ...Code=TR18-1763

this a good chain i know it's the right size...
good price? think i can do better?

[Motofool]

Check the link of post #6 above.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...hain&_osacat=0