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Old February 1st, 2020, 12:39 PM   #1
Elgaaenj
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Name: Jacob
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2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250R high idle

So my 06 ninja has a super high idle speed and I can't seem to lower it. I recently cleaned the carb and everything seemed to be properly adjusted. It will idle between 3000-5000 rpm and if I adjust it below 3000 rpms it just dies. I can hold it at a lower rpm (1000-1500) but have to keep playing with the throttle to keep it alive. The engine also sounds like it's knocking when it's idling. It has good power and the rpms don't lag when I drop the throttle. Any suggestions on what it might be would be awesome!
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Old February 1st, 2020, 12:41 PM   #2
ducatiman
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where are the pilot screws set at? (# of turns from lightly seated)
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Old February 1st, 2020, 12:44 PM   #3
06CandyThunder
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is the idle screw backed out? It should push against the throttle body plate and vice versa when adjusting the idle knob. You say when you adjust it nothing happens. Is it in the housing? Should look like this on the right side of the bike. As you turn the knob that is on the left side of the bike the screw should move up or down on the throttle plate
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Old February 1st, 2020, 02:08 PM   #4
Elgaaenj
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I will check and let you guys know.
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Old February 1st, 2020, 02:54 PM   #5
Elgaaenj
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The pilot screws are set to about 2 1/2 turns out. Also the idle adjustment screw is hitting where it should.

I think it might be related to vaccume pressure. What exactly is the following? Should it have a fluid coming out?
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Old February 1st, 2020, 03:57 PM   #6
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Would appear you've got a Ca model 250 there. Thats part # 16165-1001 separator shown.
There should be another big black box, too.

Get on to a Kawasaki parts book for your year... you'll be able to understand the hoses and where they go.

Back to high idle, your throttle cables have adequate freeplay to allow throttle plates to close fully?
Choke linkage not hanging up, plungers fully closing?
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Old February 1st, 2020, 08:10 PM   #7
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If mechanical adjustments are correct, then most likely pilot fuel-circuits needs thorough cleaning to factory-fresh conditions.

Note that spray carb “cleaners” no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Cleaning carbs nowadays requires lots of mechanical scrubbing with brushes, careful flossing with wires of appropriate diameters, ultrasonic soaking in caustic radioactive solvents and micro soda-blasting @ 100000psi.
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Old February 2nd, 2020, 12:55 AM   #8
Elgaaenj
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Ya there isn't any free play that I can see. There is enough free play in the cables too. I took off the "other black box" and ran the bike and it ran a ton better. I think it might have some gunk in it. The cams also seem to be clanking or the valves. I'm going to tackle adjusting them probably this next weekend and also look into the black box function. From what I could see it looks like a filter of sorts. It didn't look too clean inside so it may be cutting off air and that might be causing it to die at lower rpms. Also with the carburetor, besides using the blaster thing, I used an ultrasonic cleaner and fine brushes and wires to clear all the holes. If tuning the valves and cleaning the vacuum system doesn't do the job I'll probably pull off the carb and clean it again and balance it as well. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old February 2nd, 2020, 05:35 AM   #9
ducatiman
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MOTM - Nov '18, Mar '17
information exists on total removal of the Ca system, do your homework on that issue
*************************************************************
"It will idle between 3000-5000 rpm and if I adjust it below 3000 rpms it just dies."

"sounds like it's knocking when it's idling"

as the fuel system is comprised of various functions, delivery and metering, the integrity of the fuel tank to petcock to the various internal carb functions need to be evaluated, confirmed, cleaned and adjusted.
Like an orchestra, its all gotta work together.

Specifically the "knocking" and inability to idle indicates you've missed some stuff.
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Old February 8th, 2020, 02:58 PM   #10
Elgaaenj
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So I took my carb apart and was thinking to check the adjustment on the float bowls... I pulled out the float bowl valves and this is what they looked like. Is this normal or do they need to be replaced?
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Old February 8th, 2020, 03:19 PM   #11
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MOTM - Nov '18, Mar '17
Automatic replacement within my normal service...in your case it would appear the viton rubber tips have been pulled out? How'd that happen?

Regardless.....replacement is imperative.
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Old February 23rd, 2020, 07:58 AM   #12
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