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Old March 24th, 2012, 10:45 AM   #1
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Some Upgrades

Time for some upgrades. She was due for some new tires so I got some Pirelli Diablo Rosso II tires. The suspension left something to be desired so I installed some RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators and refilled with 10wt fork oil. I always wanted gold wheels so I had them painted "Brembo" gold. I also wanted a more adjustable rear shock so I got one from a 2005 Honda CBR f4i

I didn't take pictures of the emulator install, the tires or the painting of the wheels because those processes are all well documented. The rear shock conversion is not well documented so I will be posting pictures of the process as it goes along.

Here she is hanging.... Rear shock and dogbone already removed. I will need to fabricate a dogbone for the new shock. Pictures will follow the process..

You can (kinda) see the new shock hanging in there with the reservoir attached to the rearset bracket. I will need to make a neat mounting bracket for it.

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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:02 AM   #2
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take it slow have fun man
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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:08 AM   #3
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Sounds like some fun upgrades!
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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:34 AM   #4
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I love the ladder lift. Great idea.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 12:05 PM   #5
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I love the ladder lift. Great idea.
That is a really great idea! I should have used that when I serviced my uni-trak linkage! I ended up hoisting it by the rails for my garage door, but I was kinda worried about that the hole time.

CB - I love the Killboy sticker on the cowl Sounds like the bike is getting it's share of love
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Old March 24th, 2012, 12:16 PM   #6
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Thanks, guys. The ladder says it can support 250 lbs so I figured it would be strong enough to hold up half of the bike. I have a floor jack under it just in case. The rear stand is just holding up the swingarm because the shock is off. It seems very stable. Oh, regular ratchet straps are holding it in place.

I was going to use my garage rails but I didn't feel like it would safely hold 200-300 lbs.

Other things you might notice are NUI clipons, aftermarket foot pegs, rear seat cowl (with obligatory Killboy sticker), missing sprocket cover (converted to GP shift) and 2 Brothers exhaust.

The only thing I want to do to her besides finish up the rear shock is get some gold Kawasaki and Ninja decals to match my new wheels. I was thinking of a gold chain, but I don't want to OG.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 12:17 PM   #7
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Oh, I can probably round up some Killboy stickers if you ask nicely. Darryl is my homeboy.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 12:20 PM   #8
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Oh, I can probably round up some Killboy stickers if you ask nicely. Darryl is my homeboy.
oh! yes please!!! Can I paypal you some $ to pay him for them? I love his photographs, and want to support him if I can.

I was going to buy some when I went to the Gap, but idk if I'll make it to there this summer (that was in my plans) because my friends in Ashville are coming back to Hudson for the summer. I would just pay for a cheap hotel or something, but with a track day in the plans at Mid-Ohio, I had to choose between one or the other.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 01:52 PM   #9
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I love the ladder lift. Great idea.
I was going to say the same!! Now I know how im suspending the ZX!
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Old March 24th, 2012, 05:50 PM   #10
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oh! yes please!!! Can I paypal you some $ to pay him for them? I love his photographs, and want to support him if I can.

I was going to buy some when I went to the Gap, but idk if I'll make it to there this summer (that was in my plans) because my friends in Ashville are coming back to Hudson for the summer. I would just pay for a cheap hotel or something, but with a track day in the plans at Mid-Ohio, I had to choose between one or the other.
i would do the gap over track...great riding everywhere in the area not just the dragons tail.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 06:11 PM   #11
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I'm glad I'm not the only one who jerry-rigged a ladder for a tail lift! Actually, to be honest I used two ladders and some galvanized pipe so I would have more wiggle room and so I wouldn't have to be working directly under a ladder (the whole superstition thing...).
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Old March 24th, 2012, 07:15 PM   #12
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nice i was going to go with a CBR shock install, but could not find a good priced one. thats when i settled for the R1 shock swap.
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Old March 25th, 2012, 06:17 AM   #13
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@Gorilla25 What's a good price? I got mine for $40 on eBay. Hindsight being 20/20 it doesn't mount the same on the bottom so it's going to take some fab work.
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Old March 25th, 2012, 08:49 AM   #14
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I don't know for sure this will work on the ninja, but with my SV we just flipped the rider pegs and placed them on jackstands. I have done more shock swaps on SVs then i can count, never had one fall or even move.
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Old March 25th, 2012, 10:20 AM   #15
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That sounds like a really good idea.
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Old March 25th, 2012, 11:18 AM   #16
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Well, that is a good price. When I was looking, I could not find one for a good price.
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Old March 28th, 2012, 08:30 AM   #17
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I went to a fabrication shop yesterday in hopes they could make me a new dogbone(?). I don't really know what it is called. The link that connects the links, shock and chassis.

I walk in and no one is there, so I ring the bell. An older woman comes up and I ask if they do custom one off work. She asks me what "one off work" is. I guess I wasn't clear, so I hold up my pieces and tell her, politely, that I need this (holds up shock) to fit on this (holds up link). She says "we make that" and points to a poster on the wall of a bomb squad robot. "cool" methinks at this point. So she lets me know that she doesn't know what fabrication is and she doesn't really know what they do there, she just answers phones. She calls a gentleman from the back to speak with me about my project.

Two older gentleman come through the door and I introduce myself and the first thing one of them says is "what's that?" Maybe this guy doesn't get out much? Anyways, I explain to him my project and what I would like done. He informs me that he can't make that part. I say "ok, well thank you for your time" then he says he can make the part... but I wouldn't want to buy it from them because it would be so expensive. Now, mind you I pulled up in a BMW M3 that is sitting right outside the window. I ask "well are we looking at $100 or $1000" He says, well I really don't know. I politely excuse myself and shake my head as I walk out the door.

Maybe they don't like money? Maybe they have such an amount of business that they don't care about new business or their reputation? I mean if you can send two guys to the front of the office to speak to someone I wouldn't think you are that busy. I felt like the tone of the conversation I was having was a little condescending. Maybe it's because I'm female and I must not know what I'm talking about? Who knows...

Anyways, that leads me to make this piece on my own. I will post some pictures of the process and pieces. I do have some questions though...

Q. The link has bushings in it. Do I need to keep these bushings in place or can I use the bolt as a bushing and simply grease the bolt?

I don't think it will make a difference in the ability for the part to move freely, but maybe there are some forces I'm not thinking of...????
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Old March 28th, 2012, 10:51 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by TnNinjaGirl View Post
IAnyways, that leads me to make this piece on my own. I will post some pictures of the process and pieces. I do have some questions though...

Q. The link has bushings in it. Do I need to keep these bushings in place or can I use the bolt as a bushing and simply grease the bolt?
@Rexbo should be able to answer that. He made his own.
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Old March 28th, 2012, 11:04 AM   #19
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Post up a picture of what you are looking to do or a picture of the old one and a description. I have some good contacts that could probably get that made for you.
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Old March 28th, 2012, 11:11 AM   #20
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In general, bushings are there to isolate parts that vibrate or move around from the driver/rider for both comfort, performance and to keep from rattling other bolts off your ride. Not 100% without seeing that parts. If it were me, I'd try and find a way to keep the bushing.
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Old March 28th, 2012, 03:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnNinjaGirl View Post
Anyways, that leads me to make this piece on my own. I will post some pictures of the process and pieces. I do have some questions though...

Q. The link has bushings in it. Do I need to keep these bushings in place or can I use the bolt as a bushing and simply grease the bolt?

I don't think it will make a difference in the ability for the part to move freely, but maybe there are some forces I'm not thinking of...????
What are you looking to do? Raise or lower the rear end of the bike vs stock height?

If you want to raise the back of the bike you can just drill another 12mm hole in the stock dogbone, and if you want to lower it there are lowering links on ebay for cheap. If you want somewhere in between (do you know the length you're looking for) I'm in the process of waterjetting some custom ones for racers that raise the rear up about an inch.

And no, the bushings aren't needed. They're really just there to keep the rear suspension from rattling/squeaking as well as keep the steel dogbones from eating the steel bolt shoulders. I have aluminum dogbones right now with no bushings and they work just fine.
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Old March 28th, 2012, 03:09 PM   #22
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She bought a CBR shock for more tune-ability.

I'm assuming she wants dogbones that are the right length to keep the tail at the stock height?

The question is whether that bushing is necessary or not.
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Old March 28th, 2012, 03:22 PM   #23
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As for fab on that dog bone, look up local custom MC shops, they may have the equip needed and know what it is/for
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Old March 29th, 2012, 06:57 AM   #24
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The shock is for more tunability. I don't really care to raise or lower the back of the bike.

Correct. I'm mostly concerned about the bushing because I am copying the shape of the original link. That would be the only variable I would modify.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 07:22 AM   #25
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Difference in mounting.


Side shot of link.



Bushings in question.



New shock and link.



My newly painted front wheel
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Old March 29th, 2012, 07:37 AM   #26
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That wheel color looks great. Can't wait to see them both on the bike
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Old March 29th, 2012, 10:25 AM   #27
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I got my front tire mounted today and put it back on the bike. FYI, to keep the bike stable on the "ladder lift" the front needs to be on a stand. I let the front down to sit on the new tire and she about tipped over.

Anyways, here is a pic of the new wheel/tire combo. I think it looks really good myself. I'd like to get some gold Kawasaki and Ninja decals. Anyone have a source for those?

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Old March 29th, 2012, 10:41 AM   #28
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Love the work you're doing... keep it up!!! I really wanna get my rims painted gold too... Along with a few other parts... i.e. front shocks, etc...
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Old March 29th, 2012, 10:54 AM   #29
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My fiance painted my rims for me. It took a ton of sanding and prep work. The "Brembo" gold is Honda Tiger Eye from a 2001 Civic. The color is dead on. He used Dupont paint mixed by O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I think it was something like $70 for the paint and clear coat. I'm not sure what labor would have cost as I did not ask around.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 10:58 AM   #30
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Pm me, I can make any graphics you need.

Those linkages are tricky... I need to take a look at my bike to figure out the best way to make them.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 11:01 AM   #31
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The biggest issue for me is getting the old paint off... I don't think we get aircraft paint stripper here in India... and I've tried shot/sand blasting wheels to no avail...
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Old March 29th, 2012, 11:04 AM   #32
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Try to keep the old paint on, it keeps you from having to use primer. It was all done by hand sanding. Lots and lots of hand sanding (I have to give credit where credit is due because I did not sand a bit). Ok, that's a lie, I sanded the inside lip after it was painted so the tire wouldn't slide off in a corner. :-)
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Old March 29th, 2012, 12:53 PM   #33
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^ yeah if you are painting them there is no reason to completely strip the paint. Just scuff it so the new paint has something to stick too. The only reason youd have to actually strip it is if you are going to powder coat them...
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Old March 29th, 2012, 02:48 PM   #34
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I reinstalled the stock shock, took it off the front stand and kept the rear stand on. I pushed down on the front and it seems a lot softer than it was to begin with. I did this to the front:

Gold Valve Emulators with softer "blue" spring
drilled out the dampning tubes with 6 total 5/16" holes as per instructions
15 wt fork oil filled to top with emulator, spring, washer and spacer installed with bike on triple tree stand so no weight was on the forks.

Maybe I should put the stiffer "yellow" spring in the GVE? Is it supposed to feel softer than stock? Did I do something wrong?
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Old April 1st, 2012, 01:48 PM   #35
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I looked around the hardware store (yay for working at Lowes!) and found some stuff to make this work. 1/4" plate, 3/4" tubing, nylon spacers, grade 8 boltage.

So I will be keeping the bushings, just nylon instead of metal.

I still have the question about the squishy front forks though. Any ideas? @Rexbo @Gorilla25 I think you guys both have GVE's, don't you?
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Old April 1st, 2012, 04:39 PM   #36
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change out springs or a preload adjuster
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Old April 1st, 2012, 05:23 PM   #37
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I didn't cut the spring spacers, so with the GVE's installed that should give me 1/2" of extra preload over stock. Maybe I'm mistaking "soft" for "compliant"
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Old April 2nd, 2012, 06:46 AM   #38
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My forks feel as soft as stock at the top of their travel, so what you're feeling is normal, because the emulators really don't change low-speed damping much. They change high-speed damping much more, and you'll feel the difference when you ride it over some bumps.

When you changed the fork oil, did you measure the oil level with the forks compressed, and did you cycle them a couple times to burp the bubbles out of the bottom?
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Old April 2nd, 2012, 07:08 AM   #39
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I had them compressed and cycled them to get the air out. They were installed on the bike when I did everything, though. From what you are saying it sounds like they are working fine and I am being paranoid... again....
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Old April 2nd, 2012, 08:00 AM   #40
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haha doesn't hurt to be paranoid sometimes. The biggest differences I found in the way the forks felt is changing from 10w to 15w oil, and changing the oil level in the forks. Originally my oil level was way too high and the forks felt super stiff and wooden through the turns. I took a bunch out and they felt better but were bottoming out under hard braking. So I added about 5mm at a time until they still felt soft but didn't hit the bumpstops anymore. Ended up at somewhere around 135mm from the top of the forks.
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