Harbor Freight - Do I need to buy now?

[Alex]

Originally Posted by TnNinjaGirl

I use a lot of lube and just the right amount of pressure in the right places.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by TnNinjaGirl

I understand the "right" tools make the job "easier" but I usually break beads with tire irons and just use the axle instead of a rod to balance everything up. Has worked so far..

I got three tire irons, rim protectors, a bead breaker, soapy solution, stands, and the whole shebang also intending to balance on the axel or free at CycleGear yet, without the tire changer, it still ended up being a huge fiasco both times I tried it. Both times I resorted to loose mount service for $20 a tire but even loose mounting services here charge $50 a tire. Since then I have done another loose mount and paid way too much (didn't even try).

I studied and read up on everything but that didn't stop tire irons from slipping or get beads to stay in the center channel while I levered. I ended up getting stranded with no sleep for days one time and bloodied up my face the other. As far as I ever got was getting the front tire off the rim and getting one bead of the rear tire off. I didn't give up easily!

That said, when I had the manual tire changer with no motorcycle attachment for the last two years I ended up using it multiple times for friends and neighbors. Otherwise I would have resented it as "useless" just like our OP.

[headshrink]

I also now preach the No-Mar bar. It's AMAZING! Also, "proper" lubrication in ALL the places they tell you in the instructions, some of which are not obvious.

My next big tool purchase will be the HF lift; and then I will wonder why it wasn't the first thing I bought in 08.

[alex.s]

the nomar bar is nice but i'm cheap

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by CZroe

I got three tire irons, rim protectors, a bead breaker, soapy solution, stands, and the whole shebang also intending to balance on the axel or free at CycleGear yet, without the tire changer, it still ended up being a huge fiasco both times I tried it. Both times I resorted to loose mount service for $20 a tire but even loose mounting services here charge $50 a tire. Since then I have done another loose mount and paid way too much (didn't even try).

I studied and read up on everything but that didn't stop tire irons from slipping or get beads to stay in the center channel while I levered. I ended up getting stranded with no sleep for days one time and bloodied up my face the other. As far as I ever got was getting the front tire off the rim and getting one bead of the rear tire off. I didn't give up easily!

That said, when I had the manual tire changer with no motorcycle attachment for the last two years I ended up using it multiple times for friends and neighbors. Otherwise I would have resented it as "useless" just like our OP.

the trick is to use strong hands

[EternalNewb]

Originally Posted by alex.s

the trick is to use strong hands

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by alex.s

the nomar bar is nice but i'm cheap

I was too.... my cheapness was not worth it in the end, and my wheels are nicked (I was careful). Mojo's knock-off version is about $99.... it's somewhat cheaper.

[headshrink]

If it doesn't have paint chipped at the corners, it's not Harbor Freight.

If your able to assemble it without making modifications, it's not Harbor Freight.

If you don't need to replace at least one piece of hardware, it's not Harbor Freight.

If everything is straight and lines-up properly, it's not Harbor Freight.

If it's valuable enough to be worth the hassle of sending it back, it's not Harbor Freight.

If a critical part doesn't have a problem that would otherwise render it useless, you got damn lucky!

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by headshrink

If it doesn't have paint chipped at the corners, it's not Harbor Freight.

If your able to assemble it without making modifications, it's not Harbor Freight.

If you don't need to replace at least one piece of hardware, it's not Harbor Freight.

If everything is straight and lines-up properly, it's not Harbor Freight.

If it's valuable enough to be worth the hassle of sending it back, it's not Harbor Freight.

If a critical part doesn't have a problem that would otherwise render it useless, you got damn lucky!

I take it you had trouble installing yours?

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by CZroe

I take it you had trouble installing yours?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...520_141025.jpg

Yes. The giant screw inside the bottom tube isn't straight. It will attach to the base, but it doesn't screw on very far at all before it stops. It may be perfect for really tall people, but I'm not tall.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Yes. The giant screw inside the bottom tube isn't straight. It will attach to the base, but it doesn't screw on very far at all before it stops. It may be perfect for really tall people, but I'm not tall.

Mine has some play. I tightened it down over the X-shaped piece meant for changing car tires and it was crooked. I removed that and it was straight. I tightened the knob and it was crooked again.

[headshrink]

I finally got to my local HF retail store to exchange the MC tire attachment. I get it home and.... SAME DAMN PROBLEM!

I believe the problem may not be that the bolt isn't totally straight; I think it may not be sized correctly, or possibly a different thread size. The second unit twists on a touch more, but both of them seem to only engage the first one or two threads before it seizes. Other than buying a new base unit, I don't know what to do. I've had the base unit from when they originally discontinued the MC attachment and have never been able to use it.

[CZroe]

You're talking about the enclosed threaded rod inside of the bottom of the changer which threads into the base?

Mine spins and spins and spins a ridiculously long time before it's fully seated. It spins so freely I can even let go and watch it spin a while with momentum but it takes so many turns that it still takes time and can be tiring. Does the cap for changing car tires still screw down correctly for you?

Only thing I've noticed with the threading is that I can't easily remove the knob that you use to tighten it after having tightened it once. There's no reason to remove it and I assume that it's just the tip deforming from being tightened. You don't have the knob tightened down first, do you?

I've also had my base since shortly after the attachment was discontinued. In case the threads are different, my threads look flat, like Acme threads, when looking inside the base.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by CZroe

You're talking about the enclosed threaded rod inside of the bottom of the changer which threads into the base?

Does the cap for changing car tires still screw down correctly for you?

You don't have the knob tightened down first, do you?

I've also had my base since shortly after the attachment was discontinued. In case the threads are different, my threads look flat, like Acme threads, when looking inside the base.

Yes, that's the rod.
Yes, the cap screws on flawlessly.
No, I don't even have that knob at the moment.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Yes. The giant screw inside the bottom tube isn't straight. It will attach to the base, but it doesn't screw on very far at all before it stops. It may be perfect for really tall people, but I'm not tall.

It looks as though HF has changed the design of the motorcycle wheel adapter...

I don't use the cross for car wheels when I'm doing bike tires. I have a set of Bridgestones coming for my K75 early this week: I'll take a picture of my set-up when I change tires later this week.

[js380]

Originally Posted by dcj13

It looks as though HF has changed the design of the motorcycle wheel adapter...

I don't use the cross for car wheels when I'm doing bike tires. I have a set of Bridgestones coming for my K75 early this week: I'll take a picture of my set-up when I change tires later this week.

I am wondering what your review and pictures of the new HF motorcycle tire changer adapter are.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by js380

I am wondering what your review and pictures of the new HF motorcycle tire changer adapter are.

Tab with hole on MC wheel adapter goes over spike for lug hole (on left side of shaft). Does the current MC adapter have that feature?

[CZroe]

No tab here. How would that even work? It needs to turn to thread down and that lug spike didn't seem to be something you could install after last I recall seeing it.

[dcj13]

Afraid I'm confused... Can't understand why HF would have changed the MC tire adapter and removed the tab that fits over lug hole pin thingy.

I put on a pair of Bridgestone S11's on my K75 this afternoon. I should be done changing tires on my bikes for a year or so. (I'm sure friends will come over for tire changes this summer, though).

[mutineer]

Originally Posted by KURT

There are sites on the web, that show you how to use 2X4's to break the tire bead. After that, a couple of tire irons and rim savers will do the trick.

I doubt that you need to invest in a tire changer, unless you plan to do it every weekend.

You can break a bead by setting the wheel on the ground and leaning on it with the kickstand

Worked every time on damn near every bike I have ever changed a tire on
from dirt bikes to big ass BMW sport touring bike

Reminds me, I owe the guy who showed me that trick a beer

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by mutineer

You can break a bead by setting the wheel on the ground and leaning on it with the kickstand

Worked every time on damn near every bike I have ever changed a tire on
from dirt bikes to big ass BMW sport touring bike

Reminds me, I owe the guy who showed me that trick a beer

Kinda hard if your bike is on stands from having the wheel removed.

[mutineer]

Originally Posted by CZroe

Kinda hard if your bike is on stands from having the wheel removed.

Never tried it that way

Just use one of the other bikes

There is always another bike

[CZroe]

I decided to test it on a junk rim/tire before changing my brother's KLR650 tires. It was a fiasco!

I got the old tire off easily enough but it was still frustrating that the attachment was not secure on the base. The knob does not tighten well enough and there is no longer a tab for keeping it secure in the current revision. Trying to mount the tire, I'd find that the wheel would spin even when clamped down hard enough that I feared I was denting the rims (may have but didn't check). Of course, the clamps and no longer hook-shaped, so the rim pops right off as soon as it starts to spin no matter how tight you have it. The flat-back clamps actually slope when tight and are tightest at the bottom so the rim WILL loosen/move up. I suggested that we tie it down with a zip tie but my frustrated brother refused to waste them and opted NOT to change his tires. Anyway, this was all exacerbated by a center post that will not fit in any motorcycle wheel I have ever seen. They once included two different center post sizes but now they only include the larger, less appropriate, one. It needs to go through and thread on the bottom for proper leverage with the mount/demount bar. It doesn't have a conical tip and isn't stabilized from the top so you can't just center it.

My verdict? Out of the box, it's worthless it *requires* Mojoblocks and a new center post. Thanks to the bead breaker and mount/demount bar, it is probably worth it as a shortcut to doing DIY. The DIY guides have you use very thin threaded rod which I don't think is a good idea. I have not yet acquired a newer center post. As I recall, our front axle is 15mm but it'll need to be shimmed to fit the threads at the bottom properly. Without some kind of coating the clamps and the mount/demount bar will scuff your rims. I want to dip it in melted milk/juice jug plastic (white opaque kind) or something slick to see if I can get a functional coating that will slide easily and not scratch because No-Mar, No-Scuff, and Mojolever all cost too much.

Originally Posted by dcj13

Afraid I'm confused... Can't understand why HF would have changed the MC tire adapter and removed the tab that fits over lug hole pin thingy.

I put on a pair of Bridgestone S11's on my K75 this afternoon. I should be done changing tires on my bikes for a year or so. (I'm sure friends will come over for tire changes this summer, though).

They expect you to only work morning clockwise as that will tighten it on the base.

[adouglas]

Originally Posted by CZroe

I suggested that we tie it down with a zip tie but my frustrated brother refused to waste them and opted NOT to change his tires.

Now that's some interstellar-class cheapery right there.

Seriously?

I've never used one of these gadgets before, but when it comes to keeping a rim from turning, it seems to me the answer is obvious, and it is not friction. Tie one of the spokes to a secure object.

And you can even re-use the rope.

[dcj13]

Yes! Belt or strap between the wheel spoke and structure to prevent turning.

And clockwise it is if you're using a mojo lever.

And with respect to the rod that drops in the center, it's OK if it is not a snug fit. If you feel the need for a different size rod, buy a 3' piece of rod stock at Lowes or Home Depot.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by adouglas

Now that's some interstellar-class cheapery right there.

Seriously?

I've never used one of these gadgets before, but when it comes to keeping a rim from turning, it seems to me the answer is obvious, and it is not friction. Tie one of the spokes to a secure object.

And you can even re-use the rope.

He was frustrated and refusing to "waste" anything good on this "junk."

I think it's great for what it is but it will take a bit more money to make it servicable. So far, I have $32 in the manual tire changer, $32 in the motorcycle attachment, $6 in the 1/2" rod I just bought, and a couple bucks in a pack of fender washers so that I can slip the fat tube over the 1/2 rod (upside down) and not have it scrape up my seals and bearings. My 1/2" rod is currently too long so I'm either going to have to cut it or buy a 3/4" tube/pipe to slip over it.

[dcj13]

Buy the Mojoblocks. They work pretty well (but you'll still have to strap the wheel once in a while.

The Mojolever, even though $100, has my strong recommendation. Never scratched a wheel or messed up a disk (out of 90 or 100 or so wheels/tires).

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by dcj13

Buy the Mojoblocks. They work pretty well (but you'll still have to strap the wheel once in a while.

The Mojolever, even though $100, has my strong recommendation. Never scratched a wheel or messed up a disk (out of 90 or 100 or so wheels/tires).

Thanks. Already tried to buy the Mojoblocks but the guy isn't making them right now. I still plan to see if the mount/demount bar it came with can be coated because it seems to work well other than scratching and it will mean savings if I can get by with it.

[gantt]

I justed replaced the rear tire on my 650. I have used the board trick, but with two bikes I prefer to lay the tire beside the other bike and lean the kickstand on the tire to bust the bead. By far the easiest way I've done. Took me longer to light a cigeratte than it did to break the bead

[kfilla]

Originally Posted by g21-30

It's called a static balancer. Won't work on a motorcycle wheel/tire. You lay the auto/truck wheel/tire on top and look at the bubble in the center. Use it just like a level. Place weights on the opposite side of the bubble, until the bubble is centered.

Example: A 40 oz weight results in the bubble being centered. Mark the tire with chalk where the weight is placed. Then use two (2) 20 oz weights. Place one on the top side of the rim and one on the bottom side, using the chalk mark for reference. This is how I balanced customers tires 40+ years ago at the gas station where I worked during high school/college!

Last week I almost bought this unit, because I'm upset with how tire dealers are balancing my Jeep Wrangler tires (death wobble sound familiar?)



Here is the balance I bought for my bike tires/wheels:



Worked out real well. I only needed 14 grams on the front and 17.5 grams on the back!

Check it out at:

http://www.marcparnes.com/Kawasaki_M...l_Balancer.htm

Death wobble is more commonly due to improper wheel alignment or steering components being worn out. Just something to keep in mind; I'm not saying poorly balanced wheels won't also cause it, I've just never heard of it being the cause.