Sportisi BRT TIS review

[CThunder-blue]

Oh, so I've been riding around around with it on map2. lol. Wow. It would be really nice if some instructions came in english. I don't read thai very well. If I get really bored one day, I'll sand off the ON/OFF and repaint it map 1 and map 2.

[JMcDonald]

Yup, according to Matt, with the switch off and / or the switch circuit physically broken the TIS will stay on Map 2.

Originally Posted by ztrack157

PM me and I will give you my address and send a new one. A broke circuit is map two. so the ignition with out anything plugged into it is map 2 one the switch wires separated. linked is map 1.

[CThunder-blue]

well alrighty then. haha. well, I guess I'll just leave it on map2 since it doesn't seem to have caused any catastrophic damage and I've got a good 3.6 gallons of 91 in there.

[HKr1]

Originally Posted by JMcDonald

Yup, according to Matt, with the switch off and / or the switch circuit physically broken the TIS will stay on Map 2.

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

The unit comes with a cool knob/switch where i mounted on the handle bar (OFF/ON). this switch is to change from one map to another. Off meaning on conservative map, and ON meaning map #2 which is tuned for 93 octane.

Everybody has as different answer I thought "On" was the better map too

[JMcDonald]

Lol, I guess that would be nice to know.

Matt, if you are reading this, I think it might help put potential buyers at ease to include all of this info on the webpage, so people can actually see when they buy. Things like the new redline, the timing of the two maps, what octane is required for each, and how the switch can be omitted in the install, would all be very useful pieces of information. Even some of the cautions would be nice (like how the 15k redline is ok for very short periods, but avoid extended time up there).

I think those are a lot of the standard questions that require extensive searching on the forum to fully answer. If that information was immediately available, I would think that would be encouraging to prospects.

[CThunder-blue]

I tried it in the on position and it did seem to run like stock. It didn't pull as hard, but having a direct answer from the seller would be great

[ztrack157]

my understanding has been on is map 1 an off is map 2 on the programmable units. the same for the non pros. the site will be amended when time permits

[wayanlam]

i got the programmable BRT, and i just had the two maps reprogrammed, so that ON has the modified timing (more aggresive) and OFF has the stock timing.

basically just switched the two maps around. so that i can leave the switch "on" meaning its ON! lol

[JMcDonald]

Wondertwin Powers, ACTIVATE (ON) !!

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by ztrack157

my understanding has been on is map 1 an off is map 2 on the programmable units. the same for the non pros. the site will be amended when time permits

So is it the opposite or the same for the non-program units? I have a non-program unit and was under the understanding that "off" was map #1 was for 87 octane and "on" was map #2 (advanced map) was for 92+ octane fuel. Is this wrong?

[JMcDonald]

If it is programmable, then it doesnt seem like it would matter much as you could easily program the maps in either order.
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[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

So is it the opposite or the same for the non-program units? I have a non-program unit and was under the understanding that "off" was map #1 was for 87 octane and "on" was map #2 (advanced map) was for 92+ octane fuel. Is this wrong?

Jason, that's what it seems to be. My bike pulls harder in the OFF position. It does make sense though. The unit comes with the switch input plugged with a jumper. This would complete a circuit and keep the unit in map1. The switch allows the unit to go to map2 when the circuit is broken; ie, when it's in the OFF position.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

Jason, that's what it seems to be. My bike pulls harder in the OFF position. It does make sense though. The unit comes with the switch input plugged with a jumper. This would complete a circuit and keep the unit in map1. The switch allows the unit to go to map2 when the circuit is broken; ie, when it's in the OFF position.

Wait a minute... I'm still confused.

The unit comes new with the jumper installed assuming people will want the advanced map which I thought was map #2. So I assume the switch when set to the "ON" position would also complete the circuit to activate map #2.

If map #2 is the advanced map, would we want the switch to be in the "ON' position. If so, why would your bike pull harder set to "OFF"?

[austexjg]

I don't have the toggle switch installed, or connected, but I was told that the default was map 1 with no need for 93 octane.

[dubojr1]

Ok so that would change things a bit.

Assuming your jumper is still in place, this would mean the unit comes ready for "stock" use with no need for 92+ fuel. Installing and turning the switch "on" (circuit connected)would set the unit to map #1 for 87 fuel and "OFF" (circuit broken)would in fact be map #2 for the higher advance curve and required 92+ fuel.

Matt: Can you confirm???

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

Wait a minute... I'm still confused.

The unit comes new with the jumper installed assuming people will want the advanced map which I thought was map #2. So I assume the switch when set to the "ON" position would also complete the circuit to activate map #2.

If map #2 is the advanced map, would we want the switch to be in the "ON' position. If so, why would your bike pull harder set to "OFF"?

From all the threads I've read on the BRT NP, it comes setup to run on 87 which would mean that the closed circuit should be map1. That means when it's in the ON position and the circuit is closed, it should be on stock timing. From a safety standpoint, most people who buy the 250 would be on 87 and if you install it and run it on map2, you can possibly have some detonation. Altho I did so on 87 since I made the wrong assumption about which one was map1 and map2.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

From all the threads I've read on the BRT NP, it comes setup to run on 87 which would mean that the closed circuit should be map1. That means when it's in the ON position and the circuit is closed, it should be on stock timing. From a safety standpoint, most people who buy the 250 would be on 87 and if you install it and run it on map2, you can possibly have some detonation. Altho I did so on 87 since I made the wrong assumption about which one was map1 and map2.

Well I guess I have been a$$ back-wards too then running 93 fuel with it set to "on' and 87 with it set to "off". I have NOT noticed any detonation doing this though.

[CThunder-blue]

yeah, you won't get detonation running 93 on either setting. The only time you might have it is running an advanced map on low octane.

[HKr1]

Isnt there only 2deg advance diff between the two anyway. Thought I had seen where 87 map was 39deg adv, and the 93 map at 41.

It's been so long ago, I cant remember the difference between the two. I never installed the switch, so in the end I left the jumper installed.

If the better map is without the jumper

[JMcDonald]

According to the chart at the bottom of this image from the Sportisi USA website, it looks like there is no difference in the lower-end, a 2-degree difference higher up, and a 4-degree difference as you approach peak (tuned) power and the stock redline.

http://www.sportisimoto-usa.com/ignition.php

*edit*

Sorry, the image was ginormous, so I just posted the link to the page.

[HKr1]

^ think thats the programable one. He posted the non program one over on the kawi forums.

Also on that paper, map1 is better than map2


Poking around again, heres that info matt posted for the non program dtis back is sep09.

Here are the maps for the non program unit.
Map1:
2500 40
3000 40
4000 40
5000 40
6000 40
7000 40
8000 40
8500 40
9000 39
12000 39
12500 38
13000+ 36

Map 2

2000:41
2500:41
3500:41
4000:41
4500:41
5000:41
5500:41
6000:41
6500:41
7000:41
7500:41
8000:41
8500:41
9000:41
9500:39
10000:41
10500:41
11000:41
11500:40
12000:39
12500:39
13000:39
13500:39
14000:39
14500:39
15000:39
15500:39
16000:39
16500:39

[CThunder-blue]

So just to update everyone:

Just a week before Christmas, my brand new BRT TIS, of just 1 week of riding began to fail. I was cruising on the freeway at 65-70 and felt this sudden drop in power. I had to go WOT to keep the bike moving while I made my way to the side. I got to the side and pressed in the clutch, which killed the engine completely. It wouldn't restart until I played with the choke. I got it home and emailed Matt, who informed me that there was a resistor that was either failing or had failed in my unit. I sent it back for warranty last week where Matt said he would test it before sending it back to BRT for repair.

Currently I'm back to my oem CDI. One other thing to note, I would occasionally have problems starting the bike with the BRT, even with the choke full open and that's before I had the freeway adventure.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

So just to update everyone:

Just a week before Christmas, my brand new BRT TIS, of just 1 week of riding began to fail. I was cruising on the freeway at 65-70 and felt this sudden drop in power. I had to go WOT to keep the bike moving while I made my way to the side. I got to the side and pressed in the clutch, which killed the engine completely. It wouldn't restart until I played with the choke. I got it home and emailed Matt, who informed me that there was a resistor that was either failing or had failed in my unit. I sent it back for warranty last week where Matt said he would test it before sending it back to BRT for repair.

Currently I'm back to my oem CDI. One other thing to note, I would occasionally have problems starting the bike with the BRT, even with the choke full open and that's before I had the freeway adventure.

Just curious... what made you point the finger at the BRT? Is it possible this is the fuel starvation thing some of us have been dealing with?

Have a read of this and see what you think. There is also some other threads linked inside of it.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ght=starvation

[CThunder-blue]

I did read thru that a long time ago. The thing is, I've never had a problem with the bike in the 2k miles I put on it and only had problems after the BRT install. I now have been on my stock CDI without any problems again. That would indicate a problem with the BRT unit.

[ztrack157]

I will know more this week. I have had customers blame the unit prior. Usually it is on their end (something as simple as a vaccuum line) and not the unit. But once in awhile the unit is in fact defective. The number is something like 5 out of 115 in the last 2 years.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

I did read thru that a long time ago. The thing is, I've never had a problem with the bike in the 2k miles I put on it and only had problems after the BRT install. I now have been on my stock CDI without any problems again. That would indicate a problem with the BRT unit.

No offense but I'm not sure I agree. My 09(with a BRT) has done it twice in 6,000 miles and my 08 (with no BRT) has done it 4 times in 3,000. GL and keep us informed.

[CThunder-blue]

None taken. Just remember that our bikes are most likely not the same either. I have a full yoshi system, K&N filter with the airbox still in place, and the previous owner jetted the carbs. I'm not really sure what else has been done since I've not gone thru the bike. Not every bike seems to be experiencing your symptom or there would likely be an uproar.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

None taken. Just remember that our bikes are most likely not the same either. I have a full yoshi system, K&N filter with the airbox still in place, and the previous owner jetted the carbs. I'm not really sure what else has been done since I've not gone thru the bike. Not every bike seems to be experiencing your symptom or there would likely be an uproar.

Yeah it seems to be limited to just a few people on the forum. Not real sure what the percentage would be though to those who have the 250 and those that have the venting concern. Guess we will have to see what Matt comes up with. Personally I don't think it will be the BRT.

[randomwalk101]

well if you can't start with BRT installed and if you plug in stock CDI and it work, then most likely it's the BRt unit.
regarding the mapping, OFF = map #2, ON = map #1. Sorry if I contradicted otherwise. I got the info from Bram a year or more ago when I first got the unit. I think he got it backwards.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

well if you can't start with BRT installed and if you plug in stock CDI and it work, then most likely it's the BRt unit.
regarding the mapping, OFF = map #2, ON = map #1. Sorry if I contradicted otherwise. I got the info from Bram a year or more ago when I first got the unit. I think he got it backwards.

Random: just so it is perfectly clear, please define "map #1" and "map #2"

Map #2 is the performance map correct?

[randomwalk101]

map #1 = less aggressive timing = closed switch (ON)
map #2 = aggressive timing = open switch (OFF)

[JMcDonald]

With the BRT TIS, has anyone verified RPM through some external means, or has anyone seen any variation that would make them wonder if their tachs are not reading exactly right?

I just want to make sure I was really running at 13,000 last night when doing speed testing.

[DaBlue1]

There is a way to check your rpm externally. You can use an inductive pickup clip accessory on a digital multimeter. The clip attaches to the spark plug wire. If the multimeter is good, it can be set up to convert electrical pulses into a rpm format. With this I believe you will be able to tell if there is a different reading between the tach and actual spark output. The trick would come in trying to mount the multimeter and take a reading while riding at speed.

[JMcDonald]

I am starting to think mine might be off, because today I hit 13,500rpm on the tach which would have been 106mph (actual) in my gear, and I really don't think I was going that fast. That, and I had two other speed meters which were telling me lower.

[DaBlue1]

Both tach and speedo are off and get progressively worse at higher rpms and speed. My tach before I had it changed, was 250 rpms off at about 6k.

[JMcDonald]

Replacing the tach fixed the problem? Did you replace it with a factory tach?

And yeah, it seems the tach is probably off by the same amount now as before, I just noticed it now since I was looking at the 13,000rpm number more closely. But, the relationship between RPM and speed hasn't changed any.

[DaBlue1]

Replacing the tach fixed the problem. It was replaced with an OEM. I also had the IC Igniter replaced first while it was under warranty to make sure it was not the problem. 8,000+ miles later, so far so good.

[JMcDonald]

Hmm, I might look into that then. Unless one is trying to lose weight and is using an under-indicating scale, inaccurate meters are never a good thing :P .

Filled up the tank last night with premium, so Im going to try the advanced setting today!

[JMcDonald]

So far, no apparent difference in power between maps, either by feel or emperically :/ . Will run a bit again tonight on the way home if the rain stays away for a bit longer.
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[austexjg]

Did you ever notice the difference between the two maps?