DIY: Lowering the front end. Raising the Forks

[zartan]

I had this posted on other boards and just cut and pasted it because I did not want to write it all out again. Hope this is helpful. One of the best things I did.
Remember this will change the handling of the bike so please try it out in a safe place.
This is how I performed this. Please access you own skills before trying.
Not responsible if you so something goomba like




To Lower the rear I used a zx10 lowering link because I am not very tall and could not touch the ground safely on the 2nd Gen Ninja. But noticed in sharp slower turns I was fighting the bike. To bring the rake in a little I have decided to try the front lower kit from Roaring toyz.


This project is much more fun with an extra set of hands.

It consists of two "Spacers and 4 Bolts ( which I painted the tops black to match the steering assembly.)


First remove the fairing. There is a write up in the how to section ( thanks Red Rider)
It helped with those pesky clips.
Then I marked the current position on the forks using tape so when the forks move in the clamps I can check for height and such.



COVER TANK WITH SOMETHING incase you drop a tool or part.

Using a 6mm allen hex wrench To remove the bolts securing the handelbar.


Lay bar off to the side. All of your cables and hoses stay connected.



Put spacer in place.



Ok now I did have problems with my Brake hose being too tight. So I removed the line from its holding bracket. The grommet had to be moved down a bit and then the hose reattached to the holding bracket.




Place bar on top of the spacer and bolt down loosly REPEAT other side



Loosen both upper and lower fork clamps SLOWLY until fork starts to move up. You might need to push down on the bars. Use 8mm allen hex on lower clamp and 12 mm wrench on top clamp.

You will want the to raise past the spacers and into the actual bars. apx 1"-1 1/4" Mine went up more then I wanted but will try it out first.






Tighten the Bar Bolts and
double check everything for tightness. AND again double check everything for tightness.

[kkim]

Thanks, Z.

Just thought I would add...

Torque values-

Handlebar allen mounting bolts- 18 ft/lbs

Front fork clamp bolts hex head (upper)- 15 ft/lbs

Front fork clamp bolts allen head (lower)- 22 ft/lbs

[grandmaster]

So will this make it so you can use clipons if you don't use the block? Or is the whole purpose of lowering the front end to make it so the handlebars higher and back further? Slightly confused....

[kkim]

I lowered my front end for quicker/sharper handling.

If Z doesn't mind, I can add my front end install of a similar kit to this thread.

[grandmaster]

So did you leave the spacer in? Do you have to leave it in or can you lower it for clipons? I don't know if I am making sense.

[kkim]

if you are lowering it to add clipons, you do not need to purchase the lowering blocks. If you want to lower it and use the stock handlebars, you need the lowering block kit.

[grandmaster]

Okay, that makes sense. So when adding the clipons do you just measure each side so they are equal when it is lowered?

[kkim]

yes

[ROCKNROLLA]

Thanks!

[Ninja007]

after riding, how do you like it compared to a stock set up?

[kkim]

Originally Posted by Ninja007

after riding, how do you like it compared to a stock set up?

who are you asking?

[Ninja007]

Originally Posted by kkim

who are you asking?

I guess I'm asking anyone that has lowered their front end...yes, that includes you kkim.

[kkim]

well, if you read the thread, the fronts have been lowered in two different reasons. Zartan's front has been lowered in conjunction with the rear, so her answer is going to differ from mine which has only the front lowered. What is it that you're trying to find out? That would make a big difference on who answers your question.

[zartan]

I lowered the rear before I ever rode it for Height reasons so no comparison, sorry...

But turning was clumsy so lowered the front to fix the geometry.
Lowered the front a little extra to get quick steering. If you are not very experienced yet, I recommend to leave it stock for a while.
Hope this helps.

[kkim]

After asking Zartan's permission, she agreed to let me post my DIY of lowering the front end in her thread. Hope this adds and helps to keep front lowering questions consolidated to this thread. Thanks, Z!

This DIY was done back in June 08 as noted on the picture time stamps.
so....

I ordered a front lowering kit to allow me to slide the fork tubes up in the triple tree clamp to steepen the head angle and hopefully make the ninja a bit sharper turning bike. To me, the bike could benefit from a bit quicker steering. I could have raised the rear to steepen to accomplish the same thing, but I'm 5' 7" and like the bike's relatively low seat height. Lowering it a bit might be even better for me, so I went with lowering the front.

I ordered my kit from Soupy's Performance and it seems to be very similar to what is offered by Roaring Toyz.

This is what comes in the kit.

-011.jpg

Installation is simply removing the two allen head bolts for each handlebar, inserting the block between the handlebars and triple tree and bolting it back on with the supplied longer bolts. The higher placement of the bars makes cables and wires a very tight stretch, but I was able to get everything back and lined up without problems. All cable and wires are long enough and you do not need a longer clutch cable as someone in another thread was concerned about.

Once the blocks and handlebars are installed, you can loosen the bolt at the top triple tree and the allen bolt on the bottom triple tree and slide the fork leg up. I measured the fork tube to be lowered about 1" in the triple tree.

-016.jpg

Torque values-

Handlebar allen mounting bolts- 18 ft/lbs

Front fork clamp bolts hex head (upper)- 15 ft/lbs

Front fork clamp bolts allen head (lower)- 22 ft/lbs

Have not ridden the bike yet, but the front end seems considerably lower. If clearance is a problem, I'll raise it back up in increments until I can find a happy medium between clearance and quicker handling.

-017.jpg

Left side block installed and comparing to the stock height.

-018.jpg

This is what it looks like when the handlebar is removed.

-019.jpg

Completed install.

-020.jpg

Post install notes-

Okay, some initial riding feedback. I took the bike for some around the neighborhood jaunts and on some twisty back roads (nothing major). (about 20 miles total riding... waaaa my bike has 750 miles now! )

First, I get on the highway at 50-70 the bike feels the same. "WTF", I'm thinking to myself, "how can the lowering kit not make any difference???" So, the first impression is that the kit alone up front does not make the bike less stable/twitchy on the high way up to speeds of 70mph. You want to know about speeds higher than that, buy the kit and find out for yourself, then post.

I warm up the bike then head up the road for a bit of winding roads. Get to the first curve and lay the bike in. Initial turn in is IMMEDIATE. Like riding a bicycle... only with a lot more stability. "Holy crap... the bike feels like it's silk through the turns", I think to myself. Whip it back and forth and the front end feels so light! Gone is that slight hesitation you feel with the stock bike when you hit the turn in point and lay the bike over... it now happens when you think it! I was riding some roads that I had been on before and when I started the turn in when I used to, the bike now turns in too quick and I had to correct. It will take awhile to relearn riding.

If you are a new rider and want a bike that is user friendly, stay with the stock setup. If you are a bit more experienced and want a quicker turning/handling bike, this is the ticket. I didn't feel the new riding position to be a hindrance and I have not run into front fender clearance problems that I thought I might have with the front lowered.

In all, a very worthwhile investment for someone looking for an improved turning bike. Flickability has improved to the point where I do believe if you are not careful, it can get you in trouble.

[Ninja007]

thanks kkim for your help! your write up is exactly what I was looking for. I hope to lower the front end and achieve the same effect as you did, but I want to use Vortex clip-ons instead of the lowering blocks. That would basically do the same thing, right?

[kkim]

Are you going the install the clipons above or below the triple tree clamp?

Are those the same ones that Broom uses?

[Ninja007]

Originally Posted by kkim

Are you going the install the clipons above or below the triple tree clamp?

Are those the same ones that Broom uses?

above the triple tree clamp I believe. And yes, those are the same ones that broom uses. props to him for pointing them out for me. I was waiting for the clip-ons to come out from Woodcraft, but then I found the Vortex ones and presto! Let me know if I'm wrong about installing them above the triple tree clamp. if I'm not mistaken, I think I've seen a few pics of broom's Vortex clip-ons and they were installed about the triple tree clamp.

[kkim]

pictures here...
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11365

you may want to PM him and see if there will be clearance issues with the stock body work.

[VeX]

hah. There's no WAY the Vortex clip-ons will go under the triple tree You shouldn't have clearance issues if you re-click the starter/engine kill assembly a little bit. The throttle cables will otherwise contact the fairing. Oh and it'll take some time to adjust the clutch and brake levers to not contact the windscreen area. I had to notch the black plastic cowling on mine, but that was because I have a different master cylinder.

[Ninja007]

thanks kkim and Vex for your help and input. You guys know alot more about this stuff than I do. learnin' from the pros I suppose...haha!

[kkim]

no pro here... I just stay at a lot of Holiday Inns.

[noche_caliente]

Zartan,
You have both the front and rear lowered 1", correct? Did you have to do anything with your kickstand due to this difference?
Thanks!

[zartan]

I would say closer to 1.5 inches. (26 inch inseam )

My kick stand works but not at the angle it should be.( see pict. ) I think I will have it cut down and rewelded about an 3/4" to an inch. I don't like the aftermarket ones ie.. Rtoyz. it is a little too pretty for me.
another angle. would like to see it more slanted

[KJohnson21]

I had put the first 500 miles on before I lowered my wife's ninjette one inch, front and rear, with the Roaring Toyz kit. I only did the smallest adjustment on the rear "dog-bones". When I tested it afterward, it certainly seemed to feel and handle the same, if not better. And, it's definitely easier to reach the ground.

Lowering made a great difference for my wife. Before the kit, she'd get on the 250 in the driveway and barely be able to balance on her toes. Since she's still a new rider, she was afraid of dropping her pretty new bike, so she never rode it stock. Then, she rode "Yoshi" for the first time after lowering and hasn't looked back since. She can hold it up with the balls of her feet and she's comfortable with that. Here's a picture of her after that first ride and some shots of the bike on the stand: Yoshi floating

Thanks to Zartan for the front end DIY and the others that added tips.

I left the stock kickstand on because the bike's still stable on it. We might change it sometime later.

[noche_caliente]

Thanks Ken and Zartan! I *can* touch when it's on flat ground, but hills still make me a little shaky - so I'm thinking I'd be a lot more comfy with her if I lower her at least for a little while....

[zartan]

You are most welcome, Glad to help. be sure to lower the front at least even so you do feel like you are riding a big wheel ! If you are comfortable drop the front a tad more then the back. Your call.

[CaliGirl]

Originally Posted by zartan

You are most welcome, Glad to help. be sure to lower the front at least even so you do feel like you are riding a big wheel ! If you are comfortable drop the front a tad more then the back. Your call.

Just curious why you would recommend this?

[zartan]

So you are not feeling like riding a big wheel (as in when you were a kid and rode a big wheel and the bars felt up high.... do it at least evenly if possibly. disclaimer this is a suggestion...I not an expert. kKim is better at 'splainin things lucy!

Hey if you lower alot watch out for your stand spools they could bump the pipe on a large bump under compression. Not a big deal but I just take my spools off when I am not using them. just stuff to consider when lowering the bike. rubbing the underside etc.

to space it out you will want to add some washers to that hanger ( you will see in the instructions) I did not add an additional spacer to your kit and it is sealed up so you can use washers. It will look fine, it will make sense when you get it.

Not a big deal.. but it compresses on a big bump you might slightly scrape the inside of the pipe with the swing arm nut. I did bump alittle even with the stock hanger on it.Because the Yoshi is so wide. so the little extra spacing is just to make sure it doesn't happen.

But my bike is pretty lowered and I am stocky. I only noticed it on large speed bumps.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by CaliGirl

Just curious why you would recommend this?

Like Z said, if you lower both front and rear the same amount, you will retain the stock steering geometry that was designed into the bike. If you drop only the rear, like Z refers to it, you seem like your riding a big wheel with the front end forks laid down... think chopper forks. Laid down forks are very stable in straight lines which what makes them great on the highway, but horrible when trying to make tight turns.

If the front forks are dropped more than the rear is lowered the forks are closer to perpendicular to the road or upright. This has the effect of quicker turning in tight turns, but too much and the stability is lost in the straights. Most bicycles have upright forks which makes them quick handling but a handful at higher speed straights.

So, getting back to what Z was saying, if you are feeling like you want a quicker turning bike than stock, drop the fronts a bit more than the rear.

That's the reason I went with only the front lowering blocks on my bike... it made the fork angle steeper allowing for a quicker turning bike in the turns. This is not necessarily a good thing for beginners and what Kawasaki did was design the bike for the average beginner. The bike is a very good handling bike stock, so I would recommend leaving it as close to stock as possible until you feel the bike turns too slow for you.

hth

[CaliGirl]

Makes sense..thanks for the explanation Zartan and Kelly....I am thinking I may drop my bike an inch or so to get my bearings and confidence back.

[kkim]

That's a good idea. Lower it and once you feel it's holding you back, put it back to stock. Try not to lower it more than an inch, though.

gl... hope it helps.

[tlhamon]

Thought I would add this little piece of info that might save some others the same frustration.
I installed my spacers and the left side dropped down, no problem. The right wouldn't move the last 1/2 inch, so I pushed and pulled and screamed and cussed. There was a pretty big blue cloud over my garage. Finally, I loosened the handle bar for the heck of it and the fork dropped, too far. Seems that there is enough difference in the diameters of the triple tree and the spacer to allow the tube to get hung up. I spent another half hour trying to lift the front of the bike while pulling the tube down and tightening the triple tree (I don't know how I finally did it either, but my hands are killing me).
So the moral of the story is to check the bar if the forks won't move.

[JaeL]

Originally Posted by kkim

if you are lowering it to add clipons, you do not need to purchase the lowering blocks. If you want to lower it and use the stock handlebars, you need the lowering block kit.

I confused on why the stock bars won't work with a lowered front end....

[Lurkable]

Originally Posted by JaeL

I confused on why the stock bars won't work with a lowered front end....

Because they don't have a hole through them for the forks to pass through. If you're lowering the front, the forks will be rising up in relation to the rest of the bike's frame...there has to be space for the top of the forks to go up.

Only way to put stock bars on a lowered front (raised forks) is to insert the spacer so the bars can still bolt to the triple tree.

[JaeL]

Originally Posted by Lurkable

Because they don't have a hole through them for the forks to pass through. If you're lowering the front, the forks will be rising up in relation to the rest of the bike's frame...there has to be space for the top of the forks to go up.

Only way to put stock bars on a lowered front (raised forks) is to insert the spacer so the bars can still bolt to the triple tree.

Thankyou!!! I've been rackin my brain tryin to figure out a viable reason. I new there had to be one.

[ninjette]

Great tutorials guys! I am planning on lowering the front end, as my rear is lowered to 1'. Should I lower the front to 1' as well or 1 1/2 for better steering? Or it doesnt really make that much of a difference?

And how much is the kit? And is it only purchased online? OR will a kawasaki shop have them?

[kkim]

try to keep the front lowering the same amount as the rear to preserve the stock handling characteristics of the bike, as much as possible.

I bought my front end kit online from Soupy's performance, but would recommend you purchase a front lowering kit from Roaring Toyz instead.

[ninjette]

Originally Posted by kkim

try to keep the front lowering the same amount as the rear to preserve the stock handling characteristics of the bike, as much as possible.

I bought my front end kit online from Soupy's performance, but would recommend you purchase a front lowering kit from Roaring Toyz instead.

Thanks! Will keep this in mind.

[BlueRaven]

I got the Roaring Toyz lowering kit. Got a friend to pick it at their site. It came to $200 USD. The kit include links, blocks and kickstand. I recommend getting the kickstand if you plan to lower the rear end more than 1".