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Old October 4th, 2017, 12:50 PM   #1
1PaulSilva
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Headlight Issues (Out of Ideas)

2009 Ninja 250R had 28,*** miles on it. Replaced the engine a few months ago with one from a 2012 Ninja 250R with 9,*** miles on it.

The horn, turn signals and random electrical problems appeared as I got closer to putting it all back together. The harness was in terrible shape. I made repairs where needed, replaced relays, bulbs and even the CDI. All my electrical problems fixed! Except I have no headlights, no High Beam indicator on the display or anything. Everything else works fine.

After looking closely at the harness I notice a few sketchy repairs someone made. Needless to say I got a hold a harness in perfect condition off a running bike with relays, rectifier, CDI, fusebox, sensors and the whole works. Once again I rewired from front to back and still nothing. Totally out of ideas other then replacing the LH/RH Handlebar controls.
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Old October 4th, 2017, 01:31 PM   #2
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Hi Paul, welcome!!!

This is simple troubleshooting process:

I. Test headlight bulb. Measure resistance across bulb-terminals. Should not be open-circuit/infinite resistance. Also test by connecting power directly from battery terminals to bulb terminals using jumper-cables or test-leads w/alligator clips.


II. Test headlight fuse #5. Don't just look at it, electronically measure for continuity/resistance between two legs. Should be zero-ohms/full continuity.


III. Test headlight-socket ground. Measure continuity/resistance between ground-terminal of light-socket plug and chassis-ground. Should be zero-ohms or full continuity.


IV. Test for power at various points along headlight-circuit:

1. measure for +12v @ battery positive terminal
2. measure for +12v going into headlight relay
3. measure for +12v going out of headlight relay when bike's running if yes, skip to #7

4. measure for +12v going to headlight relay activation line when bike's running
5. measure for +12v going out of start/stop-switch to headlight relay when bike's running
6. measure for +12v going into start/stop-switch
7. measure for +12v at positive terminal of light-bulb plug

high-beam switch on handlebar only controls high-beams, nothing to do with low-beams. Somewhere between battery +terminal and headlight socket you're losing power. That spot is where trouble is and needs closer examination.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; October 4th, 2017 at 11:16 PM.
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Old October 4th, 2017, 01:38 PM   #3
Triple Jim
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This may not be related, but if the newgens are like the pregens, the headlight doesn't come on until the engine is running.

Welcome to the board, Paul!
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Old October 4th, 2017, 09:49 PM   #4
1PaulSilva
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Awesome, thanks for all the information. I will run through the Troubleshooting Process you provided tomorrow and post my findings.
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Old October 4th, 2017, 11:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
This may not be related, but if the newgens are like the pregens, the headlight doesn't come on until the engine is running.
Thanks for clarification. I've updated instructions. Gonna test myself and see how that relay latches.
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Old October 10th, 2017, 10:39 PM   #6
1PaulSilva
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I. Test headlight bulb. Measure resistance across bulb-terminals. Should not be open-circuit/infinite resistance. Also test by connecting power directly from battery terminals to bulb terminals using jumper-cables or test-leads w/alligator clips.
TEST PASSED

II. Test headlight fuse #5. Don't just look at it, electronically measure for continuity/resistance between two legs. Should be zero-ohms/full continuity.
TEST PASSED

III. Test headlight-socket ground. Measure continuity/resistance between ground-terminal of light-socket plug and chassis-ground. Should be zero-ohms or full continuity.
TEST PASSED

IV. Test for power at various points along headlight-circuit:

1. measure for +12v @ battery positive terminal
TEST PASSED

2. measure for +12v going into headlight relay
TEST PASSED

3. measure for +12v going out of headlight relay when bike's running if yes, skip to #7
TEST FAILED

4. measure for +12v going to headlight relay activation line when bike's running
WHICH COLOR WIRE IS THIS?

5. measure for +12v going out of start/stop-switch to headlight relay when bike's running
TEST PASSED

6. measure for +12v going into start/stop-switch
TEST PASSED

7. measure for +12v at positive terminal of light-bulb plug TEST FAILED


If I remove the headlight relay and jump from the grey wire to the blue/yellow wire the headlights will work. Tried about 6 different relays all with the same result.
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Old October 11th, 2017, 06:55 AM   #7
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The supplemental manual (page 120 of my PDF file) shows the headlight relay coil supplied by the yellow wire, which brings AC from one phase of the alternator output to a diode in the junction box, which then supplies DC to the relay coil. This means that to measure the input to the headlight relay, you need to check the yellow wire, and have your meter set to AC.
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Old October 11th, 2017, 11:08 AM   #8
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It appears headlight-relay's activation-coil uses diode for an OR circuit that is self-powered and latches ON after initial +12v power is applied from the stator coil.

The ground side of activation-coil goes to the starter-relay.

Verify that the yellow/red wire of headlight-relay connects to starter-relay and is connected to chassis-ground.
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Old October 12th, 2017, 08:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
Verify that the yellow/red wire of headlight-relay connects to starter-relay and is connected to chassis-ground.
Jean Philippe, those connections must be OK, since 1PaulSilva said that everything else works fine, which I take to mean that the starter works.
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Old October 12th, 2017, 09:22 AM   #10
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I mean ground-wire between headlight-relay and starter-relay. The starter-relay itself may be grounded and work OK, but if headlight-relay's coil isn't connected to ground, it won't turn on headlights.

Verify that headlight-relay's activation-coil wire is connected to ground at headlight relay itself.
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Old October 12th, 2017, 09:30 AM   #11
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OK, the diagram I have shows the headlight relay getting grounded through the non-energized starter solenoid coil, preventing the headlight from coming on during cranking, but I understand that there were multiple changes along the way, so I don't know if my diagram applies to this bike.
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