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Old November 5th, 2010, 05:29 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p1noysta View Post
So i have been trying to adjust my screws and i was trying to use the alternate method and turning it down but i turn my screws down all the way and the rpm doesnt drop. When i Turn them all the way down is that the stock setting?
I turned them down all the way and turned the left one at 2.5 turns out and the rght 1.75 out and im still getting it rich. Like the rpm dips when i blip it. it doesnt do it if the screws are closer to being turned all the way.
You might want to PM or contact some of the gurus here about that - kkim or Vex come to mind. Good luck bud!
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Old February 9th, 2011, 11:46 PM   #42
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1/4" ratcheting handle

I ordered the Milwaukee Offset Drive Adapter. It arrived today. However, it didn't come with a 1/4" ratcheting handle. Maybe that's not a surprise. I googled for a "ratcheting handle" (the name the OP used for it) but cannot seem to find one. Maybe I'm using the wrong keywords or I'm just plain retarded but where do I order one of these?

Last futzed with by afbarr; February 9th, 2011 at 11:47 PM. Reason: typo
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Old February 9th, 2011, 11:49 PM   #43
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maybe i just found one?

http://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Six-.../dp/B0009S9SZ6
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Old February 9th, 2011, 11:58 PM   #44
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yup that one seems just right, but you can check out your local hardware store, I purchased mine at the Home Depot, for like $4
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Old April 25th, 2011, 08:29 PM   #45
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so if I shim the carb needles on my bike with 1-2 #4 washers and remove the snorkel, I will most definitely need to access my idle screws and adjust them accordingly?
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Old April 25th, 2011, 08:46 PM   #46
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so if I shim the carb needles on my bike with 1-2 #4 washers and remove the snorkel, I will most definitely need to access my idle screws and adjust them accordingly?
no
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Old April 28th, 2011, 01:39 AM   #47
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Can someone describe in slightly more detail how to determine the correct turns out? Like how do you determine if the idle speed is at a dropping point because I've been experimenting with 1/4 turn increments but I dont think I got it right.

Also, the screws are set at different settings for right/left. Why is that and should I keep that difference or make them the same? Finally, somewhere in another forum somebody said that keeping the mixture screws the same changed the exhaust output temperature and made one side super hot vs the other.
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Old May 16th, 2011, 08:40 PM   #48
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Old May 18th, 2011, 04:07 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by setasai View Post
Can someone describe in slightly more detail how to determine the correct turns out? Like how do you determine if the idle speed is at a dropping point because I've been experimenting with 1/4 turn increments but I dont think I got it right.

Also, the screws are set at different settings for right/left. Why is that and should I keep that difference or make them the same? Finally, somewhere in another forum somebody said that keeping the mixture screws the same changed the exhaust output temperature and made one side super hot vs the other.
The screws are different (1 1/2 and 2 1/2, if I remember correctly), because the needles are different!

If you change the needles (keeping the factory 98 main jets) to DynoJet and install the clips as detailed in the DJ instructions, you can get a 99% success rate simply by gently turning both screws clockwise (in), until they stop turning. Don't force the screws more after they stop. Then, simply back the screws out 1/2 turn at a time, until you reach 2 1/2 turns on both.

As far as changing the exhaust output temperature on one side, I think my BS meter may have just gone off the scale. Maybe it changed the exhaust input temperature. I would love to see how that person determined that.
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Old May 18th, 2011, 10:04 AM   #50
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Performance automotive tuners have used infrared thermometers for years to dial in the idle mixture. If one exhaust header is hotter than the other, your settings are not where they should be. The method of blipping the throttle does get you close, but synchronizing the exhaust temperatures helps you nail it.
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Old May 18th, 2011, 09:16 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by nexus View Post
Performance automotive tuners have used infrared thermometers for years to dial in the idle mixture. If one exhaust header is hotter than the other, your settings are not where they should be. The method of blipping the throttle does get you close, but synchronizing the exhaust temperatures helps you nail it.
That's what I was wondering. Amazing how all this works out. I still havent had a chance to fix the vacuum leak but once I get that fixed i'll take another stab at the idle screws and the carb sync. Seeing as I only shimmed the original needles, I'll have to keep in mind what they're set at. With infared thermometers, even if you got it at the same temp, how would you know it's not overall rich or overall lean? Besides seeing if it runs crappy.
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Old May 18th, 2011, 10:49 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by setasai View Post
That's what I was wondering. Amazing how all this works out. I still havent had a chance to fix the vacuum leak but once I get that fixed i'll take another stab at the idle screws and the carb sync. Seeing as I only shimmed the original needles, I'll have to keep in mind what they're set at. With infared thermometers, even if you got it at the same temp, how would you know it's not overall rich or overall lean? Besides seeing if it runs crappy.
You can't really tell when going by temperature alone. That's why its best to do the coarse adjusting first by blipping the throttle and looking for hangs or drops in the tachometer. Ride the bike and see how it feels, then make minor adjustments according to the exhaust temp from there.
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Old September 29th, 2011, 11:37 PM   #53
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hi guys....just gonna share this...you can check if your lean or rich by looking at the sparkplugs...if its white it means your running lean and if its kinda black your running rich and the perfect is golden brownish...hope this helps..base on my experience...
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Old October 9th, 2011, 11:51 AM   #54
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So after changing the main jets and shimming the needles, my bike wont stay of when I take off the choke off. So I'm guess, based off what I've read, that I need to adjust the idle mixture screw. What I don't know is which way to turn the screw... any help appreciated!
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Old March 26th, 2013, 08:23 PM   #55
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Question Low throttle issues

Hey guys, I know haven't yet introduced myself to the community (sorry), but I have an issue I was wondering some of you might have run into and solved. I have recently rejetted my 250r with dynojets stage 3 kit using dj112 mainjets and the the needle with the eclip on the 3rd position from the top with 2 washers above it. I have synced my carbs using the glass bottle technique found on this site. But my persisting problem is my throttle response from 1/8-1/4 throttle is ridiculously rich (slowly flooding the engine and stalling, or, if i manage to save it, shooting jets of fire rich.. lol). I've tried adjusting the idle mixture screws on my own and I have got it to a point where I can pass the 1/4 throttle flooding and get to WOT (which runs fine), but in real life situations this means I am dropping the clutch at 7k+, I can not cruise, have trouble turning, and have stalled in a intersection.. I stopped trying to ride it until I'm sure this problem is fixed. When the carb was off, a friend of mine played with the idle adjustment knob and I have no clue how far it should be pushing the throttle for the idle mixture adjustment (if this has an affect at all). Thank you for reading, let me know what you think and whether it is possible to fix this myself, or if I should bring it to a professional (they want loads of money).
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Old March 27th, 2013, 08:26 AM   #56
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@SirVexSmasher :

I take it you are running pod filters? what size pilot jets are you running?

DIY: Getting the jets just right, step-by-step

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
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Old March 27th, 2013, 10:25 AM   #57
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@SirVexSmasher :

I take it you are running pod filters? what size pilot jets are you running?

DIY: Getting the jets just right, step-by-step

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
Yeah k&n pods, and yoshi trc slip on. I'm runnung dynojet's 112s as they recommended, and I have the needle clipped at the third position from the top with two washers.
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Old March 27th, 2013, 10:55 AM   #58
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I'm going to try lowering the needle height again today. Should I try a smaller main jet? @Jiggles thinks I should.
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Old March 27th, 2013, 11:06 AM   #59
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Pod filters are extremely difficult to tune. I adjusted the needle height at least 10 times before I got it as good as it gets. I'm not a fan of pod filters, they are garbage

So mess around with them until its rideable
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Old March 27th, 2013, 11:31 AM   #60
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I'm going to try lowering the needle height again today. Should I try a smaller main jet? @Jiggles thinks I should.
pilot...
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Old March 27th, 2013, 12:19 PM   #61
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pilot...
How is that possible, I hadnt changed the pilot from stock
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Old March 27th, 2013, 01:01 PM   #62
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But my persisting problem is my throttle response from 1/8-1/4 throttle is ridiculously rich (slowly flooding the engine and stalling, or, if i manage to save it, shooting jets of fire rich.. lol).
This range of throttle position says the pilot jet too rich, right? I think @alex.s suggested using a different pilot jet if adjusting the screw more than a couple turns from 2.5 out. If you are fine WOT I don't think the main is the problem. Either the pilot, or needle height as you were thinking.
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Old March 27th, 2013, 01:03 PM   #63
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This range of throttle position says the pilot jet too rich, right? I think @alex.s suggested using a different pilot jet if adjusting the screw more than a couple turns from 2.5 out. If you are fine WOT I don't think the main is the problem. Either the pilot, or needle height as were are thinking.
Okay, thanks.
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Old March 27th, 2013, 01:13 PM   #64
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if your goal is power, put the airbox back in without the snorkel- put a high flow filter in, get a bigger set of headers. 112 seems very high. if your goal is to have pod filters... because... you, uh, like the look?? then... maybe put a bigger pilot then drop the needle down a clip or two.

nothing wrong with only using WOT though.
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Old June 4th, 2013, 07:12 PM   #65
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question, what size flat did you use? i was trying to use a 7/32 but i didnt "feel" like i was engaging the screw

what does it feel like when you engage and turn it?
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:46 AM   #66
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Going to be tackling this tonight as well as shiming the needles. Ill post my thoughts later. Thanks for this diy!
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Old November 1st, 2013, 09:08 PM   #67
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The screw head recess is thicker. A 5/32 should also fit IIRC, but both the 5/32 and 7/32 thickness is much thinner. Just esure you press the base of Milwaukee with your finger tips to keep the bit pressed.

The feeling will be that of tightening/loosening a spring loaded screw.


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question, what size flat did you use? i was trying to use a 7/32 but i didnt "feel" like i was engaging the screw

what does it feel like when you engage and turn it?
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:47 PM   #68
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I pulled the caps off but didn't adjust the screws yet. I only got to ride it for 10 min after shimming the needles, and it seems to be idling fine. Going to ride it a few days and see how she responds. But so far i'm just blown away.
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Old November 1st, 2013, 11:29 PM   #69
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Will be doing this tomorrow.
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Old November 1st, 2013, 11:37 PM   #70
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Will be doing this tomorrow.
I used 2 number 4 washers on each needle removed snorkel installed slip in k&n air filter and musarri exhaust. I found it starts Better and low end response is instant now. I have not needed to adjust screws yet. Everything seems good. Will ride a few more days as is and adjust if needed.

Good luck tomorrow. ... if you have someone to help you it goes so much smoother.
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Old February 23rd, 2014, 09:55 PM   #71
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Purrin like a Kawi :O)

Thanks everyone, I just fired her up today and she's purrin like a Kawi!
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Old December 15th, 2017, 03:38 AM   #72
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motion pro tool works great too
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