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Old December 18th, 2017, 02:51 PM   #1
khammond
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ninja lost electrical power on freeway

So I scoured the threads and found some info about the battery/regulator/stator but nothing that quite described my ninja issue.

I replaced the battery on my ninja after doing some routine work on it, new chain, front and rear sprocket and rear brakes. I had let the battery die (left the key on ) a couple of times before this work was done, than as I was putting the bike back together it would not turn over just make a clicking noise. determined that the battery was no good. It would turn over and start with a charger on it but than die as soon as the charger was taken off the battery.

I installed a new battery didn't follow all of the time frames for putting the acid in to a T. charged it up and installed it along side a new led taillight, cleaned up a few bad splice jobs (mainly a turn signal resistor which turn signals aren't connected anyways.) So new battery installed and bike starts up right away, drive it to work for over a week. Also drove it about 60 miles one way on a longer trip which it performed flawlessly. parked it and left it for a day or two, jumped on for my morning commute and full choke, for two miles than jumped on the freeway about to go from 2nd to third and no throttle response, a loss of engine power than the bike itself turns off. try to flip my kill switch and hit the starter button with no response. pull off to the side and try again and only get a clicking sound as if I have a dead battery.

Spoke to my mechanic (family member/trusted not a bike mechanic but a master mechanic) and said right away it is my stator. Any input before I go buying parts or diagnosing things, of course replacing the battery with a plug and play (no adding acid type) is the first thing on my mind.

Just happened this morning and I am still undetermined what the best plan is, but I need my bike up and running right away as it is my only transportation.
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Old December 18th, 2017, 03:12 PM   #2
khammond
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ninja lost electrical power on freeway

So I scoured the threads and found some info about the battery/regulator/stator but nothing that quite described my ninja issue.

I replaced the battery on my ninja after doing some routine work on it, new chain, front and rear sprocket and rear brakes. I had let the battery die (left the key on ) a couple of times before this work was done, than as I was putting the bike back together it would not turn over just make a clicking noise. determined that the battery was no good. It would turn over and start with a charger on it but than die as soon as the charger was taken off the battery.

I installed a new battery didn't follow all of the time frames for putting the acid in to a T. charged it up and installed it along side a new led taillight, cleaned up a few bad splice jobs (mainly a turn signal resistor which turn signals aren't connected anyways.) So new battery installed and bike starts up right away, drive it to work for over a week. Also drove it about 60 miles one way on a longer trip which it performed flawlessly. parked it and left it for a day or two, jumped on for my morning commute and full choke, for two miles than jumped on the freeway about to go from 2nd to third and no throttle response, a loss of engine power than the bike itself turns off. try to flip my kill switch and hit the starter button with no response. pull off to the side and try again and only get a clicking sound as if I have a dead battery.

Spoke to my mechanic (family member/trusted not a bike mechanic but a master mechanic) and said right away it is my stator. Any input before I go buying parts or diagnosing things, of course replacing the battery with a plug and play (no adding acid type) is the first thing on my mind.

Just happened this morning and I am still undetermined what the best plan is, but I need my bike up and running right away as it is my only transportation.
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Old December 18th, 2017, 03:53 PM   #3
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Hi Kohl, welcome to the board. Anything that prevents your charging system from working could cause those symptoms, including a bad stator, a bad regulator, or something as simple as a wire coming loose. My pregen manual specifies the resistance between any two yellow stator wires as 0.2-0.9 ohms, so you could check yours and see what you find. Your newgen probably isn't different, but you can consult the manual to verify that.

There's also a procedure for testing the regulator, but seeing that new ones on eBay are around $20 with free shipping, it may be easier to just get one and swap. In the worst case, you have a spare.

I doubt if your new battery is damaged much yet, but letting it run down to zero, as you know, isn't good for it.
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Old December 18th, 2017, 05:11 PM   #4
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Thanks Triple jim. I will get to work on it over the weekend and hopefully can get the parts ordered quickly as christmas is around the corner.
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Old December 18th, 2017, 05:33 PM   #5
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Measure AC output voltage of each pair of stator coil wires
Measure DC output voltage of regulator output
Measure DC input voltage at battery from regulator

Each number tells a story and will point towards the problem. Otherwise without testing, you might as well replace everything in the charging circuit including the wiring between each component.
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Old December 18th, 2017, 05:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
Measure AC output voltage of each pair of stator coil wires
Measure DC output voltage of regulator output
Measure DC input voltage at battery from regulator
The problem I see with that is a bad shunt regulator could make the AC from the stator too low, so it doesn't isolate the problem unless you unplug the stator from the regulator first. Maybe that's what you meant.

I was trying to provide a valid test that doesn't require the engine to be running, since the battery is currently dead, but if Kohl charges the battery and gets the engine running first, he could do it your way.
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Old December 18th, 2017, 06:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
The problem I see with that is a bad shunt regulator could make the AC from the stator too low, so it doesn't isolate the problem unless you unplug the stator from the regulator first. Maybe that's what you meant.

I was trying to provide a valid test that doesn't require the engine to be running, since the battery is currently dead, but if Kohl charges the battery and gets the engine running first, he could do it your way.
Yes, unplug the stator connector. The AC peaks should be fairly high, in order to fill in the valleys when going through rectifier. This will tell us if the stator is bad or the regulator.
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Old December 19th, 2017, 01:41 PM   #8
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So I get this right, Charge the battery fire the bike up and multi meter to conections from the stator every wire and look for inconsistencies. Is any inconsistency going to indicate the stator is bad?
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Old December 19th, 2017, 01:51 PM   #9
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Yes, each stator coil wire-pair should have same AC voltage. Values are in FSM, I don’t recall exactly. Should be something like 30-40 VAC @ idle and goes up to 40-60VAC @ 4000 RPMs.

If these check out, reconnect stator and measure DC output of regulator at idle and 4000-5000 RPMs.

Disconnect cables from batt and measure voltage there, should be exactly same as measured at regulator output.
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Old December 19th, 2017, 02:38 PM   #10
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I don't recommend running it with the battery disconnected. Measuring the battery voltage with the engine running, and measuring the voltage at the regulator output with the engine running should give you what you need.
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Old December 19th, 2017, 03:32 PM   #11
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exactly i am going to charge the battery so I can get the bike running than with the engine running measure the amps from the stator if I see inconsistency in the volts or amps (what exactly would I be measuring) than I know the stator is no good.
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Old December 19th, 2017, 06:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khammond View Post
exactly i am going to charge the battery so I can get the bike running than with the engine running measure the amps from the stator if I see inconsistency in the volts or amps (what exactly would I be measuring) than I know the stator is no good.
You can’t measure AC amps with basic multimeter. Only measure AC voltage of stator coils and DC voltage going out of regulator and DC voltage going into battery.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; December 19th, 2017 at 09:49 PM.
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Old December 19th, 2017, 09:24 PM   #13
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My 30 year old Fluke 77 will, but if Kohl re-reads your post #5 above, he should get the information that's needed. Kohl, just remember to unplug the alternator from the regulator when you read the voltage between each pair of the three wires (3 readings total).
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