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Old September 3rd, 2016, 11:11 PM   #1
CBeth88
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Won't go past 4000 RPM - Help for a non-mechanic?

I’ve had a 2010 EX250 for about 4 years. When I got it, we had a mechanic in the family who maintained it for me. He was extremely useful but a terrible (and unwilling) teacher, so I never learned much about working on the bike. He’s no longer around, so I’ve been trying to manage on my own for the last two summers. Everything has been fine until this past weekend. I went to ride it and it won’t go past about 4000 RPM. If I try to force it beyond that or kick it up to second gear, it just stalls.

I’m relatively handy, but like I said, I don’t really have any mechanical experience beyond changing the oil. Taking it to a shop will be a massive (and expensive) ordeal since it can’t be ridden, so I really want to at least try to fix it myself. But I don’t know where to start. I've been searching this and other forums and the carburetor seems to be a running theme. If I go through the process of dismantling the bike to that point, are there other things I should be looking for? Any other suggestions at all??

I really, really appreciate any help! I want to be self-sufficient and be able to take care of things on my own, but it's hard to figure out from scratch with no one to guide you.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 07:42 AM   #2
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Hi Carrie! Welcome to Ninjette!

Have you tried looking to see if your air filter is clean? A badly clogged air filter could be your culprit. What is your mileage on your bike? Is the bike modded for performance? new exhaust/slipon, snorkel delete or airbox delete?

If it's relatively stock, I would check your air filter first and then move onto carbs next. The stock rubber lines are very resistant to dry rotting but it is also something you could check yourself.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 09:24 AM   #3
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Welcome, Carrie !!!

You can do most of the service work yourself:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Troubleshooting

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/2008_(and_up)_EX250J_Info
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Old September 4th, 2016, 02:32 PM   #4
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Welcome to the group! Hoping you find your problem and get back to riding!
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Old September 4th, 2016, 04:51 PM   #5
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Bike sitting for some time? How old is fuel?
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Old September 5th, 2016, 06:18 PM   #6
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Simple things to do first are to check the condition of the air filter (and make sure nothing is blocking the intake snorkel) and change the gas.

Completely draining the gas tank (and the floatbowls) and refilling with fresh gas (87 octane, no ethanol if available) is always a good first step before starting to take stuff apart.
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Old September 5th, 2016, 10:48 PM   #7
CBeth88
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Thank you all for the responses! To answer some questions, the bike has about 4900 miles, all stock parts, and was sitting for about 2 1/2 weeks.

I'm starting with the air filter. Cleaned it well, letting it dry overnight, then I'll coat it with oil and reinstall tomorrow and see what happens. It wasn't pretty, but didn't seem all that bad. The outer side was covered in what looked like little black shavings, inner side was perfect, didn't see any wear and tear. I cleaned out the airbox though and there was an elastic circular band in there, about 4" long, 1/2" wide. I can't imagine that's suppose to be there, but I have no idea where it came from.
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Old September 6th, 2016, 08:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBeth88 View Post
Thank you all for the responses! To answer some questions, the bike has about 4900 miles, all stock parts, and was sitting for about 2 1/2 weeks.

I'm starting with the air filter. Cleaned it well, letting it dry overnight, then I'll coat it with oil and reinstall tomorrow and see what happens. It wasn't pretty, but didn't seem all that bad. The outer side was covered in what looked like little black shavings, inner side was perfect, didn't see any wear and tear. I cleaned out the airbox though and there was an elastic circular band in there, about 4" long, 1/2" wide. I can't imagine that's suppose to be there, but I have no idea where it came from.
Be sure to remove as much oil as possible or it will create other running problems.

See if that does it, but if not I'd be prepared to drain the gas.
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Old September 7th, 2016, 09:45 PM   #9
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Well, cleaning the air filter didn't do the trick. When I was testing it out I did notice that the engine sounds lower than normal. It's usually a bit high-pitched, but it definitely had a deeper, more guttural quality to it. I also tried revving it in neutral but it still wouldn't go past about 4000 rpm.

Next step, drain the fuel?
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Old September 8th, 2016, 06:40 AM   #10
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Does closing the throttle part way help or hurt the problem? Do both exhaust pipes heat up equally after starting it?
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Old September 10th, 2016, 11:21 PM   #11
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I guess closing the throttle helps in that giving it gas past a certain point stalls it. I can't let the clutch out completely without it stalling, but I can hold it in a bit and give it a little gas.

It only has one exhaust pipe, but it does heat up.
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Old September 11th, 2016, 06:51 AM   #12
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You probably know, but carbs have different circuits internally, for different amounts of throttle opening. Not different RPMs, but different amounts of twist of the grip. Your problem seems to be at wide open throttle. At this setting, the mixture is controlled by the main jets, so I'd look for dirt in them. Partially clogged main jets will cause a problem like yours.

I wondered if you were running on one cylinder, so I wanted you to check the head pipes when you started the engine, to see if they warm up equally quickly. If they do, you can still use an IR thermometer to check their temperature after you experience the problem, and if it's happening on only one cylinder, it will tell you which on is doing it.
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Old September 11th, 2016, 08:18 AM   #13
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Drain your tank, add a gallon of fresh gas and an 2 ounces of seafoam. Start it and choke it to give you a high idle for 5 to 10 min, then turn off the choke and see if it will take more throttle. If it improves enough to ride it, take it for a ride and give it the beans(Italian Tune-up style).



I've had my bike since 2012 and have never had to tear into the carbs, even after sitting for 6 months. The only time I've ever had trouble was when I put Joe Blows discount gas in it. Quality fuel and the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer if I know I'm not going to ride it for a while. And as always redlining is fine, and actually helps keep it running well.
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Old September 12th, 2016, 09:45 PM   #14
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Any updates @CBeth88?
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Old September 12th, 2016, 10:26 PM   #15
CBeth88
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Unfortunately, I got sent out of town for work at the last minute last weekend, so nothing got done. My plan is to drain the fuel and put in fresh with Seafoam and hope that clears out the carbs. Really, really hoping it does because I'm not anxious to go digging into the poor bike any further. I feel like that will only end in tears and a painful mechanic's bill. So fingers crossed! I'll keep you guys posted and any other suggestions in the meantime are more than appreciated!
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Old September 13th, 2016, 06:59 AM   #16
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As a worst case, one of the guys here, Ducatiman, rebuilds carburetors and has great reviews. If it comes to it, you might consider removing the carbs and sending them to him. I don't have personal experience, but I bet it's less expensive than taking the bike to a mechanic.

Also, if it does turn out to be dirt in the carbs, you should install a filter in the fuel line between the gas tank and carbs. In fact I add one to any bike I buy, if it doesn't already have one, just to prevent future headaches.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=239678
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Old September 13th, 2016, 07:26 AM   #17
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Drain the floatbowls as well. Catch what comes out and look for debris or water.

Make sure the battery is fully charged, as it will take some cranking to build vacuum and fill the floatbowls again.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 08:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
As a worst case, one of the guys here, Ducatiman, rebuilds carburetors and has great reviews. If it comes to it, you might consider removing the carbs and sending them to him. I don't have personal experience, but I bet it's less expensive than taking the bike to a mechanic.

Also, if it does turn out to be dirt in the carbs, you should install a filter in the fuel line between the gas tank and carbs. In fact I add one to any bike I buy, if it doesn't already have one, just to prevent future headaches.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=239678
Thank you, T jim....

much less than a dealer...though you are providing R&R labor (remove and replace)

a carb refurb *general ballpark estimate* around $130 shipped

Cbeth, simply shoot me a PM to go forward, if need be.
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Old September 13th, 2016, 09:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBeth88 View Post
Thank you all for the responses! To answer some questions, the bike has about 4900 miles, all stock parts, and was sitting for about 2 1/2 weeks.

I'm starting with the air filter. Cleaned it well, letting it dry overnight, then I'll coat it with oil and reinstall tomorrow and see what happens. It wasn't pretty, but didn't seem all that bad. The outer side was covered in what looked like little black shavings, inner side was perfect, didn't see any wear and tear. I cleaned out the airbox though and there was an elastic circular band in there, about 4" long, 1/2" wide. I can't imagine that's suppose to be there, but I have no idea where it came from.
Is is possible that something built a nest in the airbox?

"...The outer side was covered in what looked like little black shavings"
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Old November 28th, 2017, 04:20 PM   #20
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Change oil filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Be sure to remove as much oil as possible or it will create other running problems.

See if that does it, but if not I'd be prepared to drain the gas.
Also make sure you replace the oil filter!!!!!!!!!
Neglecting to change it can cause piston rod bearing failure!!!!!!
Which means your bike is demolished !!!!!
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Old October 21st, 2018, 06:52 AM   #21
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Problem solved! Simple yet synonymous!

The problem is only with the fact that Water is been mixed with the gasoline. Just drain the petrol from carburetor and let the petrol with fuel mixture leak from the overflow tube! There! Problem solved!! The reason for mixing of water with fuel maybe due to the fact that you may have left the motorcycle on the rain and it may happen after post water - service. So, just drain the fuel water mixture from carburetor and let it drain from overflow tube
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Old October 21st, 2018, 12:28 PM   #22
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Water mixed with fuel will cause running problems under all conditions, not just over 4000rpms. It will cause stumble at idle, stumbling at 1000rpms, stumbling at 2000rpms, stumbling at 3000rpms, etc. This does not happen on the OP's bike, so rain water not an issue in this case. Could be fuel flow-volume issue or electronic and ignition-related.
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