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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:41 PM   #1
jdoucet93
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Post DIY: Ebay universal gear indicator

A couple of people wanted me to do this one and its way overdue.

There aren't many pictures that go along with this one simply because it's all basically just wiring and placing sensors. Its quite difficult to take pictures of wiring behind the dash.

Also, please note that I already had Ninja250's gear indicator installed so this one is temporary. But I've ridden around for almost 300 miles with it installed and it's still going strong. Even got rained on once.


So here goes...

Tools you will need:

- All the tools to remove the body work from your bike. The stock toolkit will do for this. But only if it's all you have. I would definitely recommend using quality tools.
- Soldering Iron
- Multimeter
- Electrical tape
- Wire Strippers
- Razor blade
- Double sided tape
- Basic electrical knowledge
- Rear stand (optional, but will make adjusting the sensors MUCH easier)

First things first: Lets Get Nekkid

You only need to go as far as removing the two lower farings (sides) and the upper (front).

First:
Figure out where you are going to be placing your indicator. I chose to place mine over the neutral light.


Second:
Lay the wire in the direction you want it to go. It will fit between the dash shroud and the upper faring. Route the wire behind the dash and strip about 1-2 inches from the outer layer of the wiring harness from the gear indicator.
Be sure to strip the wire in a location that will allow it to reach the wires coming from the back of the dash board.


Third:
Cut the black, red and white wires in the harness. These are the power, ground, and neutral sensor. Be sure to cut the wires closer to the open end of the harness.


Fourth:
Splice the red wire from the harness onto the positive wire going to any of the dash lights. Splice the black wire from the harness onto the negative wire coming from the same light. Splice the white wire from the harness onto the positive wire coming from the neutral light in the dash.

Fifth:
Connect the sensors to the main harness. You will need to figure out which sensor registers upshifts and which one registers downshifts. Do this by simply turning the bike on, (At this point everything should be working.) put the bike in gear to remove the neutral input and place the magnet near each sensor noting which one causes the indicator to display "1" this will be the downshift sensor.


Sixth:
Using the double sided tape, Place the sensors on the frame next to the shift linkage. Place the downshift sensor further back the bike and the upshift sensor further forward as shown. using a bit of double sided tape, place the magnet on the inside of the shift linkage and secure with tape wrapped around the linkage. If this installation was permanent, I would have used a dab of super glue to hold the magnet to the linkage.


Seventh:
This was the hardest part of the install for me, getting everything adjusted perfectly. This is where the rear stand comes in VERY handy.

Click this picture: Its a video. This is what it should look like when you are done.


Finally once everything is perfectly adjusted, using some kind of marker, mark where to drill holes through the frame Use a bolt long enough to go all the way through the frame and sensor to permanently attach the sensors.

But, if you don't want to go drilling holes through your frame(I don't blame you if you), like I said, I've put almost 300 miles on mine with only the double sided tape holding the sensors on and it still works flawlessly. Almost never misses gears. This indicator is definitely worth the $30 as long as you aren't afraid of doing a little work.



On a side note, this is my first DIY and I'm sure I overlooked a few minor details of the install, so if anyone has any questions or needs more pictures, please feel free to ask and I will do my best to help you out. And those of you seasoned DIYers, feel free to offer your advise

EDIT: I forgot to mention. Make sure your are very very careful when messing with the wires from the indicator. They are very fragile and break very easily. Ask me how I know....

Last futzed with by jdoucet93; November 15th, 2011 at 09:48 AM.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 07:00 PM   #2
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Fantastic timing! I came home from work today to find a delivery receipt from the postman (not sure why I have to sign for it), and this DIY.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 07:06 PM   #3
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Thanks for the clarification on splicing into the N light, BTW. For some reason I thought you had to splice into the sensor itself, which is located above the counter-sprocket, IIRC. Using the N light looks like a much easier way to go.... I'm glad I saw this before I started cutting!
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Old November 14th, 2011, 07:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headshrink View Post
Thanks for the clarification on splicing into the N light, BTW. For some reason I thought you had to splice into the sensor itself, which is located above the counter-sprocket, IIRC. Using the N light looks like a much easier way to go.... I'm glad I saw this before I started cutting!
oh man... I'm definitely glad you found this then. That seems like quite a PITA!
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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:00 PM   #5
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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:39 PM   #6
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Nice DIY, definitely saving this for the future.
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Old November 15th, 2011, 03:40 AM   #7
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Thank you Alex and Kevin!
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Old November 16th, 2011, 12:02 PM   #8
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Does the magnet have to have it's poles oriented in any particular manner?
Do you have yours mounted parallel to the shifter-rod-linkage-thingy?
Also, would hot glue work well to securely attach all components?
My only hesitation with using double-sided tape is that summer heat tends to decrease its ability to stay put.
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:30 PM   #9
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As far as i can tell, the polarity of the magnet doesn't matter.
I'm sure hot glue would work fine. Just might be a bit of a pain in the ass to adjust if thats how you are planning on initially mounting them.
And I have my magnet oriented perpendicular to the shift linkage. It would probably still work if it the magnet was parallel to the linkage, you would just have to move the sensors a little further apart from each other.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 01:13 AM   #10
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@wellcraft I was inspired by your design for the switch mount. I LOVE the way you only used the existing bolts to hold them. Here's my version.

It's funny that I bid on the red G.I., but got the blue one. No matter, I actually changed my mind and wished I had bid on the blue one anyways, so it's all good.

I installed mine today. I started the bike up on the stand, but still need to test it on the street. On the stand it shifted up fine, but when I shifted down, it got to 1 way to quick. I'll have to see if it does this on the street too. I will probably have to fine-tune things a bit.

Initial thoughts: Dang, can they use a smaller gauge wire!!! I had to remove the razor blade from my utility knife and carefully shave the insulation. Good old, cheapo Chinese junk! The auto-dimming feature is a VERY nice feature, but it should dim at least twice as much as it actually does. I think it will still be a bit too bright at night, but I haven't actually tried it yet, so maybe it's good.

I used 26 gauge sheet metal from HD to fabricate the sensor plate, and magnet arm, and also picked up some shears. Cutting the sheet metal was VERY easy with the shears (almost too easy). However, if I had to do it again, I may go with a little thicker gauge (just one step). The 26 gauge will totally work fine, once fine-tuned, but it seems a tad flimsy to me. Since I also had to buy sheet metal sheers, I learned there are WAY more types than I realized. Apparently some are designed to cut only straight, others straight and left, and still others straight and left/right. So read the labels very carefully if you go buy one. The sensors, and magnet were only secured with hot-glue. Once I have things fine-tuned, I may go back and use something a little stronger, although I suspect hot-glue will still work as a permanent solution.

Here are a couple pictures of my G.I.:

I love all the extra information above my instrument cluster (longer trips add GPS above the cluster). The new gear indicator and temp. gauge is obvious, but the LED to the left of the G.I. is the indicator to my AutoSwitch. If you don't know what an AutoSwitch is, they are awesome (as I approach my house, I flash my lights twice, and my garage door opens)! It isn't at all necessary, but it's pretty. I used a short length of angled-aluminum, for the bracket, shaped with a bench grinder and Dremal. The bracket and the temp. gauge was mounted with Velcro, but the G.I. was mounted with hot glue.



I was going to spray paint the switch bracket black, but one I got it installed, and put the fairing on, I barely notice it. I'll probably just leave it as-is.

A little closer.
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Last futzed with by headshrink; November 22nd, 2011 at 12:01 PM.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 01:31 PM   #11
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I guess it's time to fine-tune this thing. Most of the time it skips 2 gears when I down-shift, and will sometimes do it when I shift up too. I guessing my switches are two close to each other, and the magnet is possibly overshooting a switch, and triggering it a second time on the swing back to the middle. That's my theory anyways.

I may try to find a tinted film I can but over the GI. It is just way to bright/prominent, and demands attention.

I think it will be awesome, once the bugs are worked out. I just hope those itty-bitty wires from the switches don't melt next to the engine. I wrapped them fairly well in electrical tape, which should do, as long as it doesn't make contact with the engine.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 01:41 PM   #12
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I had the same issue. But only with the downshifts. It was actually because my sensor was too far away. I'm guessing what happened was it was just barely getting close enough to register causing it to read multiple shifts. The solution is just to move the sensors a tiny bit closer together. Just don't get them too close.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 06:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoucet93 View Post
I had the same issue. But only with the downshifts. It was actually because my sensor was too far away. I'm guessing what happened was it was just barely getting close enough to register causing it to read multiple shifts. The solution is just to move the sensors a tiny bit closer together. Just don't get them too close.
They actually are touching each other at the attachment tabs. I wonder if bending the magnet arm down will help. Will try that in a couple minutes when I leave work.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 08:16 PM   #14
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ahh.. I see... That's why I mounted mine with the tabs facing away from each other.


Edit: On a side note, just hit 1000 miles on mine. Still working perfectly. Apparently this thing is waterproof. Got caught in a massive downpour sitting in traffic the other day.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 08:22 PM   #15
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I just messed with it in the garage, and fired it up on stands. It actually was too close, and confusing it. I had to keep moving it out, and angled it a little. Will see tomorrow if it holds up on the street. The hot-glue has proved to work well for tuning, as it can be broken and reapplied easily.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 08:30 PM   #16
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I just messed with it in the garage, and fired it up on stands. It actually was too close, and confusing it. I had to keep moving it out, and angled it a little. Will see tomorrow if it holds up on the street. The hot-glue has proved to work well for tuning, as it can be broken and reapplied easily.
Awesome. Thats good news.

Maybe with the addition of a heat gun, The hot glue could be better than the double sided tape, allowing you to simply heat the glue to allow it to become workable again.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 08:41 PM   #17
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Awesome. Thats good news.

Maybe with the addition of a heat gun, The hot glue could be better than the double sided tape, allowing you to simply heat the glue to allow it to become workable again.
That's an even better idea.
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 12:04 PM   #18
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*Sigh* It is a little better, but still can jump, although not as bad. The funny thing is it worked fine for the middle of my ride to work, but was buggy at the beginning and the end. If it were programed to stop at 6 it would help. It can get to 8, I down shift, and I'm in 7th.... frustrating. Although I like my current method of mounting the sensor/switches, I may just move it to the shift linkage bar like you have it, Josh.
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 12:13 PM   #19
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*Sigh* It is a little better, but still can jump, although not as bad. The funny thing is it worked fine for the middle of my ride to work, but was buggy at the beginning and the end. If it were programed to stop at 6 it would help. It can get to 8, I down shift, and I'm in 7th.... frustrating. Although I like my current method of mounting the sensor/switches, I may just move it to the shift linkage bar like you have it, Josh.
The only issue I have with mine at this point is I can simply apply pressure to the shifter and it will register a downshift. But if I move the sensor further away, I get the "double shift" issue. Other than that, It's perfect though.

The only thing about doing it on the linkage is, make sure your shifter is set exactly where you want it. Because with the magnet on the linkage it will make adjustments difficult at best.
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 01:21 PM   #20
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The only thing about doing it on the linkage is, make sure your shifter is set exactly where you want it. Because with the magnet on the linkage it will make adjustments difficult at best.
This was one of the reasons I didn't want to go this route in the beginning. I'll work with my current set-up a bit, until I get frustrated enough to switch.

I wonder if a slightly larger magnet would work better.... I would think everything would need to be readjusted, but maybe a stronger magnetic field would give a greater margin between a perfectly placed sensor, and a buggy one.
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 12:09 AM   #21
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I hate this thing!!!!!!!
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 01:03 PM   #22
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I think the slightly larger magnet may work. I can't see why it wouldn't. Why do you hate it? lol
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 01:49 PM   #23
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I think the slightly larger magnet may work. I can't see why it wouldn't. Why do you hate it? lol
I'm really struggling with this. At the moment I now have the +sensor working, which is an improvement over last night, but the -sensor is NOT happy. It will either register nothing, or 2 shifts. I'm using the heat gun to soften the glue, and slide it over in very small increments (1mm each). If I can't get this to work eventually, I may cut the sensors and go with a switch system that Ninja250 uses.... but I would really like the magnetic switches to work.

EDIT: Do you have your magnet parallel to the shift linkage bar, or perpendicular? What are the distances you settled with between sensors?
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 02:19 PM   #24
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ahhh yess.... I hadn't even though of that. Combine the good looks of this indictor with the solid performance of KC's switches. Instead of putting KC's indicator back on my bike i may just put his switches back and use those for this indicator since i have a permanent mount for those switches.


My magnet is perpendicular to the linkage. And my sensors are about 1/2 an inch apart.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 12:09 AM   #25
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My magnet is perpendicular to the linkage. And my sensors are about 1/2 an inch apart.
Mine is parallel. I wonder if that makes any real difference. I would turn mine, but since the +switch is about set, I don't want to mess that up.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 12:13 AM   #26
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Mine is parallel. I wonder if that makes any real difference. I would turn mine, but since the +switch is about set, I don't want to mess that up.
To be honest, I really think that could be what is causing your problems. Simply because the range of motion isn't that great. But at the same time, if your sensors are just a little further apart, it should be pretty much the same thing.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 12:35 AM   #27
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To be honest, I really think that could be what is causing your problems. Simply because the range of motion isn't that great. But at the same time, if your sensors are just a little further apart, it should be pretty much the same thing.
True, but I was thinking the field would cover more of the switch when it is parellel to the switches (not linkage), but mine is only the ends.... if that matters.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 12:41 AM   #28
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I'm not an expert on magnetism so my knowledge here is limited. The only advise I have at this point is try reorienting the magnet to be perpendicular to the linkage and move your sensors around just a tiny bit.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 11:35 AM   #29
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What Ebay gear indicator are you guys getting? Very cool mod by the way...haven't been messing with the bike for awhile and coming back, I saw I have another project to do already
happy Thanksgiving everyone!!!
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Old November 24th, 2011, 12:09 PM   #30
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/250868414833...#ht_6419wt_907

That one. It's really a simple mod as long as you have a decent amount of patience. And happy thanksgiving to you as well!
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Old November 24th, 2011, 02:11 PM   #31
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Yup. There are a few different vendors in china selling these, but I'm sure they come from the same place, as they look exactly alike. I paid AUD for mine, thinking it might come faster if it came from Australia, but I think it was just a marketing move to sell to that market. It came from china like the rest. Mine said "red" but ended up being blue, which I ended up preferring, so if you want red, it's a good idea to make sure the picture is a red unit.... although they are for the most part using the same product pictures.

Interestingly enough, I missed the mailman and had to go to the post office to pick it up. I didn't need to sign for it, just pick it up, and it would have easily fit in my mail box. I think it has something to do with shipping internationally. The lady at the counter said she could tell it was international by the claim code.

When you get yours, let us know how you mount it, and how it goes for you.
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Old November 25th, 2011, 09:23 PM   #32
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Thx guys. I ordered one. Prob going to take a couple of weeks at least for it to get here.
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Old December 1st, 2011, 11:32 PM   #33
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Got mine in today and just finished the install....

Pros...

Works great! Got it lined up perfectly and it is accurate as hell! Tried everything I can to make it mess up and it doesn't!

Blue led matches well with the paint!

Cons...

Took FOREVER to install! Part of it was the fact that the OP's instructions say to Hooke the white lead with the + terminal to the neutral light. THIS IS INCORRECT! The white wire requires a (-) signal to reset the counter (neutral). Other than that, it took me 3 attempts to line up the sensors properly. I'll take a pic of the locations of the sensors and magnet and upload....

Wire comes out of the side of the unit, not the back...so flush mounting it is out of the question....I have it to the side of the windshield


All in all a great little mod! Thanks OP for the heads up!
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Old December 1st, 2011, 11:50 PM   #34
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In order...

1. Sensor location

2. Magnet location/orientation

3. Picture of shifter in down position (actual position is a little lower when bike is on and you actually put it in/change gears

4. Shifter in up position (once again actual final position is slightly higher when actually shifting) but as you can see the magnet only catches the corner of the sensor.

5 pic or display on bike!

IMG_0822.JPG IMG_0823.JPG IMG_0826.jpg IMG_0827.JPG IMG_0830.JPG
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 08:53 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socal5646 View Post
Got mine in today and just finished the install....

Pros...

Works great! Got it lined up perfectly and it is accurate as hell! Tried everything I can to make it mess up and it doesn't!

Blue led matches well with the paint!

Cons...

Took FOREVER to install! Part of it was the fact that the OP's instructions say to Hooke the white lead with the + terminal to the neutral light. THIS IS INCORRECT! The white wire requires a (-) signal to reset the counter (neutral). Other than that, it took me 3 attempts to line up the sensors properly. I'll take a pic of the locations of the sensors and magnet and upload....

Wire comes out of the side of the unit, not the back...so flush mounting it is out of the question....I have it to the side of the windshield


All in all a great little mod! Thanks OP for the heads up!
Glad you got yours working!

About the neutral wire, I absolutely have mine attached to the positive line for the neutral light. When I saw this I went out and tore the front of my bike off to get to the wiring and tested it with a multimeter.
Now I'm no electrical genius but I believe that all the (-) wires on the bike (aka grounds) are all basically directly connected to the battery by the battery being connected to the frame and all of these wires being grounded to the frame. So all of the (-) wires on the bike always have a signal going to them.

Here's how I tested this: Find something that receives switchable power (something you can manually switch on and off (ie. neutral light.) Now find a constant power source (something that is always on when the key is turned) I used one of my dash lights.
Now, Switch your switchable power source off(if your using the neutral light, just put the bike in gear). Now place the (-) probe from your multimeter onto the (-) input on the neutral light and place the (+) probe onto the (+) input from your constant power source. The multimeter will now read ~12v even though your (-) input shouldn't be receiving a signal.

If what you were saying, Socal5646, was correct, the meter would not register anything. I'm not sure what kind of bike you have but maybe it's designed differently than our 250s. Although i'm pretty positive all vehicles employ this same design.

Either way, thank you for your input.
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 09:19 AM   #36
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I have a better "test" for you....

Connect a 12v (+) to the red line a ground for the black and connect the sensors appropriately. now that you have your unit powered up place the magnet over the sensors to get a reading. Once a value is displayed....jump the white wire to first the (+) red wire (IT WILL DO NOTHING). Then jump it to the black lead.....IT WILL RESET TO ZERO!

Ps if you connected the white wire with the neutral lead that comes out of the plug to the cluster FYI that lead puts out a (-) signal!
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 09:39 AM   #37
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I have a better "test" for you....

Connect a 12v (+) to the red line a ground for the black and connect the sensors appropriately. now that you have your unit powered up place the magnet over the sensors to get a reading. Once a value is displayed....jump the white wire to first the (+) red wire (IT WILL DO NOTHING). Then jump it to the black lead.....IT WILL RESET TO ZERO!

Ps if you connected the white wire with the neutral lead that comes out of the plug to the cluster FYI that lead puts out a (-) signal!
I know. I tested the wire that I have mine connected to. It sends a positive signal when the neutral light is on. But, like I said, I'm glad you got yours working. But the way you are saying you did it doesn't make any sense to me because, as stated previously, all the (-) wires on the bike are ALWAYS receiving a (-) signal. Even when nothing is powered on.
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 09:58 AM   #38
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I spun my magnet 90 degrees, so it is now oriented like everyone elses. Now I have to fine-tune it, but my garage tests, which don't seem as accurate as the road, give me a sense that it will be down hill from here.
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 09:58 AM   #39
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http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...nout%20Cct.pdf


That's the cluster for an ER-6N dash/cluster but all KAWI bikes should be the same (my 650r was)....Neutral indicator is activated by a (-) signal! If you have your white wire hooked up to the same wire in the back of your cluster...that is a (-) signal.

OTHERWISE...maybe we have two different manufacturers? Doubt it though....who knows!

I read your instructions first, then when I realized the lead on the cluster was a negative signal I even hooked up a relay to have the negative signal activate the relay so I can give the white lead a (+) feed. Obviously that didn't work and I tore it all down and did the "test" I mentioned above. That is when I found out that the white wire requires a (-) signal to reset the counter/indicator.
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Old December 2nd, 2011, 12:32 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socal5646 View Post
http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...nout%20Cct.pdf


That's the cluster for an ER-6N dash/cluster but all KAWI bikes should be the same (my 650r was).....
Granted, electrical schematics are at the higher end of my learning curve, but I cross-checked this link with the new-gen SM. Although there may be some similarities, it appears to me they are not the same.
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