Stock exhaust temp

[propilot]

Anybody have any idea on how hot our stock exhaust can gets? Does it exceed 200F? (not the header, pipe or inside - just the outside of the can)

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by propilot

Anybody have any idea on how hot our stock exhaust can get? Does it exceed 200F? (not the header, pipe or inside - just the outside of the can)

I assume your asking this in order to paint them? Personally I just use regular everyday Krylon and never had an issue with it.

Preparation is the key to excellent painting.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I assume your asking this in order to paint them? Personally I just use regular everyday Krylon and never had an issue with it.

Preparation is the key to excellent painting.

Plasti dip actually, that way if I don't like it, I can simply peel it off

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by propilot

Plasti dip actually, that way if I don't like it, I can simply peel it off

I would personally say no.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I would personally say no.

OK. I read about somebody doing it with success on a Kawi 650 but he had a carbon fiber canister which I believe gets a lot less hot.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by propilot

OK. I read about somebody doing it with success on a Kawi 650 but he had a carbon fiber canister which I believe gets a lot less hot.

You are correct about the carbon fiber staying cooler.

On the other try it, worst that can happen is it doesn't work.

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

On the other try it, worst that can happen is it doesn't work.

sets himself on fire, runs over other side lane crashes into a schoolbus full of kids and kills them all?

that is worse case but unlikely.
I may get baked on too good to take easily off.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

I may get baked

The truth has prevailed!!! Or your username has been explained. hahahahaha

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by csmith12

The truth has prevailed!!! Or your username has been explained. hahahahaha

[Ghostt]

One more, then I'm done,

[Ghostt]

Ceramic coating, but it may chip

[crazymadbastard]

I got owned.

[propilot]

lol. I could also go flying on fire into an orphanage..

Well the guys at dipyourcar.com got back to me and don't recommend it for exhausts. Temp limit is 200F. I'm tempted to go for a long ride and stick a thermometer on the pipe and see what it reads

Duplicolor has engine spray paint resistant up to 500F. Just gotta find the right color now..

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by propilot

lol. I could also go flying on fire into an orphanage..

Well the guys at dipyourcar.com got back to me and don't recommend it for exhausts. Temp limit is 200F. I'm tempted to go for a long ride and stick a thermometer on the pipe and see what it reads

Duplicolor has engine spray paint resistant up to 500F. Just gotta find the right color now..

A more accurate temperature reading might be after a long ride, while it's parked, no wind to help cool them off.

As I stated earlier I just use plain Krylon and never had issues with it on the mufflers.

[Racer x]

Stock the exhaust runs about 600 at idle 900 when running and can hit 1200 when full throttle.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Stock the exhaust runs about 600 at idle 900 when running and can hit 1200 when full throttle.

The canisters also? Or are those numbers for the headers and down pipes?

[jkv45]

I think you are under 200F for a muffler.

My son dropped his XR80, after running hard for about 15 minutes, and pinned his leg around the muffler. I got there in about 10 seconds, and the muffler was hot enough to give him a 3rd degree burn the size of a baseball through a pair of Kevlar riding pants - so it was pretty hot (maybe 300).

For a streetbike in normal riding I don't think you would get over 200.

I haven seen mufflers powder coated with standard powder, which usually is fine up to about 225F or so. After that it starts to get soft. Once it cools it's fine, but eventually it will dull somewhat.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by jkv45

I think you are under 200F for a muffler.

My son dropped his XR80, after running hard for about 15 minutes, and pinned his leg around the muffler. I got there in about 10 seconds, and the muffler was hot enough to give him a 3rd degree burn the size of a baseball through a pair of Kevlar riding pants - so it was pretty hot (maybe 300).

For a streetbike in normal riding I don't think you would get over 200.

I haven seen mufflers powder coated with standard powder, which usually is fine up to about 225F or so. After that it starts to get soft. Once it cools it's fine, but eventually it will dull somewhat.

Cool well I'll be the guinea pig and let you kno how it goes. I bought a primer that's heat resistant 1500-2000F and then the top coat is resistant to 650F. I was told it wouldn't catch fire. Worst outcome is that it would flake. I'll keep you posted. I'm also wrapping the headers and downpipes and using a heat resistant silicone paint to seal them. Let's see..

[Ghostt]

Some other suggestions, POR15 hi temperature paint, brake caliper paint, BBQ/Stove paint, Eastwood

[choneofakind]

Yes, the header is over 200 with hard use. At the track, I touched my can after a session. Definitely burnt my knuckle a little bit. Besides, I hate plastidip. Buy some proper engine enamel. Sand blast it before painting for best results.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Some other suggestions, POR15 hi temperature paint, brake caliper paint, BBQ/Stove paint, Eastwood

I already bought it. I went with the VHT engine ceramic metallic paint (650F) and the VHT flame proof primer (2000F)

[propilot]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Yes, the header is over 200 with hard use. At the track, I touched my can after a session. Definitely burnt my knuckle a little bit. Besides, I hate plastidip. Buy some proper engine enamel. Sand blast it before painting for best results.

No sand blaster here. My exhausts were actually very clean and smooth until my daughter mistook them for the foot pegs and melted some of her Uggs off..Ugh. lol
So I will have to sand them down by hand or use a fine wire brush or something to smoothen it out. Its stuck on pretty good.. I do have a dremel with lots of bits

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by propilot

I already bought it. I went with the VHT engine ceramic metallic paint (650F) and the VHT flame proof primer (2000F)

Your all set then, can't wait to see the pictures.

[Racer x]

Originally Posted by propilot

The canisters also? Or are those numbers for the headers and down pipes?

That's the header. The converter is hot, not sure how hot. And it gets cooler from there

[jkv45]

Clean it with soap and water, or use denatured alcohol if you have it, then sand lightly with 400 wet until it's evenly dull - don't go through the original finish if you can avoid it.

Wash again and dry it. Wipe down with alcohol. Make sure there's no lint on it. Mask everything around and behind it.

I wouldn't prime unless you went to bare metal. The VHT paint is more than adequate for the muffler, and should be a good choice. Shoot medium wet coats so it's smooth, but not heavy. Wait until it's no longer tacky before the next coat. I'd probably shoot 2 or maybe 3 coats max, depending on how it goes on. More is not better.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Clean it with soap and water, or use denatured alcohol if you have it, then sand lightly with 400 wet until it's evenly dull - don't go through the original finish if you can avoid it.

Wash again and dry it. Wipe down with alcohol. Make sure there's no lint on it. Mask everything around and behind it.

I wouldn't prime unless you went to bare metal. The VHT paint is more than adequate for the muffler, and should be a good choice. Shoot medium wet coats so it's smooth, but not heavy. Wait until it's no longer tacky before the next coat. I'd probably shoot 2 or maybe 3 coats max, depending on how it goes on. More is not better.

Well it rained all day so I couldn't do much. USPS didn't even deliver my starter motor like they were supposed to. The dremel worked great to get rid of the burnt rubber. It did go through the original paint but at least it's smooth now. I washed them and used regular 70% isopropyl alcohol. I'm in between painting them as is or sanding the pipes down and priming them. I'll probably sand/prime.
Also, I bought new levers a while back in carbon fiber finish. I wasn't really crazy about the look so I painted them to match the pipes. From a distance, they look great but up close, you can see the drips and imperfections. It's so much easier painting a flat surface. I thought this would be simple but I was dead wrong. Looks good enough though, not bootleg, unless you examine it up close. Pics are of the bike as it stands (minus the fact that it's all torn apart) and carbon levers before paint. I don't want to ruin the color surprise so I won't post pics of finished levers until pipes are done. Notice the bent clutch lever from PO who stated bike had never been dropped.

[choneofakind]

Just a note on VHT paint if you choose to use their high temp exhaust header paint:
you HAVE TO cure it with heat. I let that **** sit untouched for 2 weeks and it still picked up prints, oils, etc and looked like trash. I blasted and re-primed/painted my headers today, then immediately heat cured it with a paint stripper to replicate exhaust heat after it had dried for an hour. I'll let you know how it goes. Be sure to use their primer as well. The paint coats go on much thinner and cover better. Much happier with my luck so far with primer than without.

[propilot]

Well, while I waited 5.5hrs for USPS to kindly deliver my starter motor, I started working on esthetics. I gave her a good detail and sanded down the pipes - just enough to get rid of all those stuck dust particles and make them nice and smooth, not enough to remove the entire black paint. My pipes look all scratched up now like they got into a fight with the neighborhood gutter cats. I also painted the tips and funnel looking part of the pipes black (leaving the cylinder part of the pipe all scratched up and ready for the primer) and I installed the freshly painted clutch and brake levers.
Everything went surprisingly well today again..that is..until I saw the clutch cable. But I installed it back on anyways, lubed it up and turned the lock nut/adjuster so it wouldn't damage it anymore. Now the bike feels like it has a new clutch, very smooth. I'm not a fool though, it's a matter of minutes before that cable snaps, so that'll be my next DIY. Hopefully, it's not a pain to do. I have not read up on it yet.

[ieathonda]

Clutch cable is a snap with the tank off. Just be sure to route the cable and adjust it accordingly.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by ieathonda

Clutch cable is a snap with the tank off. Just be sure to route the cable and adjust it accordingly.

Yeah, I ended up reading on it, looks pretty straight forward. Just need to burn off this tank of gas first to lighten it, then I'll tackle it.

So, on a scale of 1 to 10, I'm a generous 2 when it comes to painting. I think I pretty much did everything wrong. She looks good from far but she's far from good Sorry to all the ninjetters, last thing I wanted to do was rice my Kawi out. I'll spare you the awful close up pics (really just sparing myself the embarrassment) and give you the nice ones. Hopefully, the view will distract you.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by ieathonda

Clutch cable is a snap with the tank off. Just be sure to route the cable and adjust it accordingly.

A simple trick when changing clutch cables: tape the end of the new cable to the opposite end of the old cable before removing the old cable; then pull the old cable out (thus, pulling the new cable into place). This routes the new cable exactly the same as the old one. No chance of routing it wrong.

Having the tank off helps you guide the installation while pulling it through.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by dcj13

A simple trick when changing clutch cables: tape the end of the new cable to the opposite end of the old cable before removing the old cable; then pull the old cable out (thus, pulling the new cable into place). This routes the new cable exactly the same as the old one. No chance of routing it wrong.

Having the tank off helps you guide the installation while pulling it through.

That's brilliant! So you can do that with the tank still on right?

[propilot]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I assume your asking this in order to paint them? Personally I just use regular everyday Krylon and never had an issue with it.

Preparation is the key to excellent painting.

Ghostt!!? How the hell did you get the Krylon to stick?? I took a few rides to brooklyn and back to cure the paint as recommended and the exhausts looked fine (see 1st two pics, 2nd pic u can tell I oversprayed and messed up). Then today i took a ride to the bronx to visit a friend, got slowed down by rush hour traffic and the ride took 45min. Last pic is what my exhaust looked like when I arrived in the Bronx...bubbling lava. Shyte!
I found a pro willing to repaint them and the wheels to match but damn...all that work for nothing. It looks horrible now

[choneofakind]

Lol, high temp paint is made for a reason.

[propilot]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Lol, high temp paint is made for a reason.

Dude, that is high temp paint