March 25th, 2015, 07:27 AM | #1 |
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Stock exhaust temp
Anybody have any idea on how hot our stock exhaust can gets? Does it exceed 200F? (not the header, pipe or inside - just the outside of the can)
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March 25th, 2015, 07:58 AM | #2 | |
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Preparation is the key to excellent painting.
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March 25th, 2015, 08:08 AM | #3 |
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March 25th, 2015, 08:15 AM | #4 |
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I would personally say no.
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March 25th, 2015, 08:27 AM | #5 |
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March 25th, 2015, 09:41 AM | #6 | |
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On the other try it, worst that can happen is it doesn't work.
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March 25th, 2015, 11:00 AM | #7 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
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sets himself on fire, runs over other side lane crashes into a schoolbus full of kids and kills them all?
that is worse case but unlikely. I may get baked on too good to take easily off. |
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March 25th, 2015, 11:12 AM | #8 |
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March 25th, 2015, 11:15 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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March 25th, 2015, 11:19 AM | #10 |
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One more, then I'm done,
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March 25th, 2015, 11:20 AM | #11 |
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Ceramic coating, but it may chip
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March 25th, 2015, 11:25 AM | #12 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
Name: Winston
Location: Connecticut
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I got owned.
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March 25th, 2015, 11:34 AM | #13 |
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lol. I could also go flying on fire into an orphanage..
Well the guys at dipyourcar.com got back to me and don't recommend it for exhausts. Temp limit is 200F. I'm tempted to go for a long ride and stick a thermometer on the pipe and see what it reads Duplicolor has engine spray paint resistant up to 500F. Just gotta find the right color now.. |
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March 25th, 2015, 11:54 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
As I stated earlier I just use plain Krylon and never had issues with it on the mufflers.
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March 25th, 2015, 12:19 PM | #15 |
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Stock the exhaust runs about 600 at idle 900 when running and can hit 1200 when full throttle.
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March 25th, 2015, 12:53 PM | #16 |
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March 25th, 2015, 02:14 PM | #17 |
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I think you are under 200F for a muffler.
My son dropped his XR80, after running hard for about 15 minutes, and pinned his leg around the muffler. I got there in about 10 seconds, and the muffler was hot enough to give him a 3rd degree burn the size of a baseball through a pair of Kevlar riding pants - so it was pretty hot (maybe 300). For a streetbike in normal riding I don't think you would get over 200. I haven seen mufflers powder coated with standard powder, which usually is fine up to about 225F or so. After that it starts to get soft. Once it cools it's fine, but eventually it will dull somewhat. |
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March 25th, 2015, 05:42 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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March 25th, 2015, 05:48 PM | #19 |
in your machine
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Some other suggestions, POR15 hi temperature paint, brake caliper paint, BBQ/Stove paint, Eastwood
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March 25th, 2015, 05:52 PM | #20 |
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Yes, the header is over 200 with hard use. At the track, I touched my can after a session. Definitely burnt my knuckle a little bit. Besides, I hate plastidip. Buy some proper engine enamel. Sand blast it before painting for best results.
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March 25th, 2015, 05:54 PM | #21 |
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March 25th, 2015, 06:47 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
So I will have to sand them down by hand or use a fine wire brush or something to smoothen it out. Its stuck on pretty good.. I do have a dremel with lots of bits |
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March 25th, 2015, 06:50 PM | #23 |
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Your all set then, can't wait to see the pictures.
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March 25th, 2015, 09:50 PM | #24 |
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That's the header. The converter is hot, not sure how hot. And it gets cooler from there
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March 26th, 2015, 06:32 AM | #25 |
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Clean it with soap and water, or use denatured alcohol if you have it, then sand lightly with 400 wet until it's evenly dull - don't go through the original finish if you can avoid it.
Wash again and dry it. Wipe down with alcohol. Make sure there's no lint on it. Mask everything around and behind it. I wouldn't prime unless you went to bare metal. The VHT paint is more than adequate for the muffler, and should be a good choice. Shoot medium wet coats so it's smooth, but not heavy. Wait until it's no longer tacky before the next coat. I'd probably shoot 2 or maybe 3 coats max, depending on how it goes on. More is not better. |
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March 26th, 2015, 04:29 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
Also, I bought new levers a while back in carbon fiber finish. I wasn't really crazy about the look so I painted them to match the pipes. From a distance, they look great but up close, you can see the drips and imperfections. It's so much easier painting a flat surface. I thought this would be simple but I was dead wrong. Looks good enough though, not bootleg, unless you examine it up close. Pics are of the bike as it stands (minus the fact that it's all torn apart) and carbon levers before paint. I don't want to ruin the color surprise so I won't post pics of finished levers until pipes are done. Notice the bent clutch lever from PO who stated bike had never been dropped. |
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March 26th, 2015, 05:55 PM | #27 |
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Just a note on VHT paint if you choose to use their high temp exhaust header paint:
you HAVE TO cure it with heat. I let that **** sit untouched for 2 weeks and it still picked up prints, oils, etc and looked like trash. I blasted and re-primed/painted my headers today, then immediately heat cured it with a paint stripper to replicate exhaust heat after it had dried for an hour. I'll let you know how it goes. Be sure to use their primer as well. The paint coats go on much thinner and cover better. Much happier with my luck so far with primer than without. |
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March 27th, 2015, 03:36 PM | #28 |
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Well, while I waited 5.5hrs for USPS to kindly deliver my starter motor, I started working on esthetics. I gave her a good detail and sanded down the pipes - just enough to get rid of all those stuck dust particles and make them nice and smooth, not enough to remove the entire black paint. My pipes look all scratched up now like they got into a fight with the neighborhood gutter cats. I also painted the tips and funnel looking part of the pipes black (leaving the cylinder part of the pipe all scratched up and ready for the primer) and I installed the freshly painted clutch and brake levers.
Everything went surprisingly well today again..that is..until I saw the clutch cable. But I installed it back on anyways, lubed it up and turned the lock nut/adjuster so it wouldn't damage it anymore. Now the bike feels like it has a new clutch, very smooth. I'm not a fool though, it's a matter of minutes before that cable snaps, so that'll be my next DIY. Hopefully, it's not a pain to do. I have not read up on it yet. |
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March 29th, 2015, 10:29 AM | #29 |
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Clutch cable is a snap with the tank off. Just be sure to route the cable and adjust it accordingly.
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March 29th, 2015, 01:10 PM | #30 | |
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So, on a scale of 1 to 10, I'm a generous 2 when it comes to painting. I think I pretty much did everything wrong. She looks good from far but she's far from good Sorry to all the ninjetters, last thing I wanted to do was rice my Kawi out. I'll spare you the awful close up pics (really just sparing myself the embarrassment) and give you the nice ones. Hopefully, the view will distract you. |
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March 29th, 2015, 02:48 PM | #31 | |
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Having the tank off helps you guide the installation while pulling it through. |
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March 29th, 2015, 04:12 PM | #32 | |
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Quote:
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April 1st, 2015, 05:42 PM | #33 | |
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I found a pro willing to repaint them and the wheels to match but damn...all that work for nothing. It looks horrible now |
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April 1st, 2015, 06:02 PM | #34 |
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Lol, high temp paint is made for a reason.
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April 1st, 2015, 06:04 PM | #35 |
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