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Old May 16th, 2018, 08:18 PM   #1
jp8484
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Oil pressure light on and bike stalls

sooo.. this happened for the first time today.
Rode the bike into downtown area.. short ride but also chocked it and warmed up for a bit before riding.. then once I got stuck on traffic, oil pressure light (next to 'neutral') light came on and stalled once I tried to start moving with the traffic.. (kicking the gear down to 1)
Stopped the bike in couple blocks and got off the check the oil and it was full..
rode away with no issue for the rest of the day and it happened again this evening after a short ride.. same thing. Stopped at traffic, bike idling, gear in neutral then once I try to get going, light comes on and stalls. Restart and no problem..

any idea what may cause this?

Engine oil changed before winterizing.. same synthetic 5w40.. just different brand and I changed the gas to 87 octane.. she used to drink the good stuff but gas price is kinda insane right now.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 05:21 AM   #2
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I don't know about your oil situation, but don't sweat the 87 octane. These engines were designed to run on 87, using a higher octane provides no benefit except a lighter wallet.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 06:13 AM   #3
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Are you sure the oil pressure light is coming on before it stalls? It's perfectly normal for it to come on as is stalls.

The stalling could be caused by lots of things. For one, is it possible you just let out the clutch too quickly without enough throttle? If not, maybe one of the interlocks is causing the problem. Without checking the wiring diagram, I seem to remember that if your side stand switch thinks the stand is extended, the engine will quit when you let out the clutch.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 06:24 AM   #4
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The oil level isn't overly high, is it?

Does the oil smell like gas?

If there is an issue with the float valves in the carb, gas can get into the oil and thin it out.

That's one possibility.

The other possibility would be a bad connection on the oil pressure sending unit. Carefully remove the wire and make sure the connector is clean and snug.

For you, it looks like the sending unit is going to be on the right side of the engine, towards the bottom near the front. It's screwed into the case and has a wire attached to it.

5W-40 oil is fine, as is 87 octane, for the Ninja.

Make sure it's idling at 1300 when fully warm.

Last futzed with by jkv45; May 17th, 2018 at 10:56 AM. Reason: added punctuation...
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Old May 17th, 2018, 10:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralgha View Post
I don't know about your oil situation, but don't sweat the 87 octane. These engines were designed to run on 87, using a higher octane provides no benefit except a lighter wallet.
paying what I used to pay for premium for 87 now..
anyone work for oil and gas company? if so.. things I want to tell you are too sensitive for this forum
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Old May 17th, 2018, 10:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
Are you sure the oil pressure light is coming on before it stalls? It's perfectly normal for it to come on as is stalls.

The stalling could be caused by lots of things. For one, is it possible you just let out the clutch too quickly without enough throttle? If not, maybe one of the interlocks is causing the problem. Without checking the wiring diagram, I seem to remember that if your side stand switch thinks the stand is extended, the engine will quit when you let out the clutch.
it all happened suddenly but I think you are correct in light coming on as it stalls..

I did change clutch free play and might be me dumping the clutch too fast but I think I did hear bit of engine sputtering? not the sudden engine stop from dumping clutch but like its running out of gas.. I know it runs lean but bit odd. I tried to 'recreate' the situation today but no issue so far..
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Old May 17th, 2018, 10:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
The oil level isn't overly high, is it?

Does the oil smell like gas?

If there is an issue with the float valves in the carb, gas can get into the oil and thin it out.

That's one possibility.

The other possibility would be a bad connection on the oil pressure sending unit. Carefully remove the wire and make sure the connector is clean and snug.

For you, it looks like the sending unit is going to be on the right side of the engine, towards the bottom near the front. It's screwed into the case and has a wire attached to it.

5W-40 oil is fine, as is 87 octane, for the Ninja.

Make sure it's idling at 1300 when fully warm.
Oil level is.. pretty high. it fills up the sight glass if I keep the bike upright and look. 800km in this season so far and first time it happened though.. should I try draining it out a bit? I messed up when I changed oil before winter and went over the ideal amount a bit..

I'll give it a sniff later for oil smell, if carb issue.. I guess I'll have to crack it open sooner than planned. I was going to do the pilot jet swap to 40 instead of stock 38 anyway

thanks guys! I'll keep checking to see if symptom continues
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Old May 17th, 2018, 11:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp8484 View Post
Oil level is.. pretty high. it fills up the sight glass if I keep the bike upright and look. 800km in this season so far and first time it happened though.. should I try draining it out a bit? I messed up when I changed oil before winter and went over the ideal amount a bit..

I'll give it a sniff later for oil smell, if carb issue.. I guess I'll have to crack it open sooner than planned. I was going to do the pilot jet swap to 40 instead of stock 38 anyway

thanks guys! I'll keep checking to see if symptom continues
I would drain it back so it's between the upper and lower marks. Too high isn't good.

Have you removed the caps from the Idle Mixture Screws? I would do that, and get the mixture set properly, but if the adjustment isn't way out (over 3.5 turns out) there's no reason to replace the Pilot Jets.

Setting the Idle Mixture - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do...dle_mixture%3F

This is for the PreGen models, but I think yours (NewGen) is the same. There are differences in the carbs and internal parts but I believe the mixture adjustments should be the same side-to-side like the PreGens.

2.5 turns out is a good base for most, slightly more with ethanol gas or cold temps.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 12:49 PM   #9
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Does it not stall if you have choke on ?
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Old May 18th, 2018, 01:55 PM   #10
jp8484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
I would drain it back so it's between the upper and lower marks. Too high isn't good.

Have you removed the caps from the Idle Mixture Screws? I would do that, and get the mixture set properly, but if the adjustment isn't way out (over 3.5 turns out) there's no reason to replace the Pilot Jets.

Setting the Idle Mixture - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do...dle_mixture%3F

This is for the PreGen models, but I think yours (NewGen) is the same. There are differences in the carbs and internal parts but I believe the mixture adjustments should be the same side-to-side like the PreGens.

2.5 turns out is a good base for most, slightly more with ethanol gas or cold temps.
will drain the oil today to proper level and no idea about idle mixture screw cap.. idle is currently set at 1500 but will also look into this!

thanks!
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Old May 18th, 2018, 01:55 PM   #11
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Does it not stall if you have choke on ?
Haven't tried it yet.. I just warm it up before riding so I don't generally ride with choke on..
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Old May 18th, 2018, 02:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp8484 View Post
will drain the oil today to proper level and no idea about idle mixture screw cap.. idle is currently set at 1500 but will also look into this!

thanks!
You can just go into the sump from the fill hole and pull some out. Removing the drainplug or filter can be unpredictable and not necessary if you are only removing a small amount.

Dropping the idle to the recommended 1300 will make it stall easier than with it at 1500. For now you could just leave it until everything else is sorted.

When tuned properly it will need some choke to start most of the time (unless the engine is hot) but should not need it for more than a minute or so in order to idle without it. Start it up, get the idle speed set to about 2500 with the choke position, then turn it down as soon as it will stay running.

During that time get your gear on and get ready to go. No need to see the temp gauge needle move in order to start riding. It will warm up a lot faster (which is better) with normal riding at moderate RPMs than it will idling.
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Old May 21st, 2018, 09:10 AM   #13
jp8484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
You can just go into the sump from the fill hole and pull some out. Removing the drainplug or filter can be unpredictable and not necessary if you are only removing a small amount.

Dropping the idle to the recommended 1300 will make it stall easier than with it at 1500. For now you could just leave it until everything else is sorted.

When tuned properly it will need some choke to start most of the time (unless the engine is hot) but should not need it for more than a minute or so in order to idle without it. Start it up, get the idle speed set to about 2500 with the choke position, then turn it down as soon as it will stay running.

During that time get your gear on and get ready to go. No need to see the temp gauge needle move in order to start riding. It will warm up a lot faster (which is better) with normal riding at moderate RPMs than it will idling.
thanks for the help!
good to know about idle speed at 2500 while warming up.. I just pushed it all the way but will keep it lower going forward.

I haven't had the same issue since.. so I'm gonna assume this happening was due to rider error.. I just remembered I also changed clutch free play so perhaps that was the issue.

Thanks guys!
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