May 28th, 2014, 12:46 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Zak
Location: Reading, pa
Join Date: May 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 SE ABS Posts: 72
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First Oil Change?
Hey guys so I picked up my ninja last night. I'll have about fifty miles on it today after work. I read some places to do your first oil change at like 20 miles. Seems crazy. But they say there will be metal shavings in my oil and I want to get those out ASAP. And if that is true I definitely want to get those out of my engine oil. I was just curious as to when everyone else here changed their oil for the first time and if it had any metal pieces/shavings laying in it or left behind in the oil pan? Any info is super appreciated like always!!
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May 28th, 2014, 12:49 PM | #2 | |
Certified Slacker
Name: Shawn
Location: Cleveland
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250R SE Posts: 232
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Quote:
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May 28th, 2014, 12:59 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Zak
Location: Reading, pa
Join Date: May 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 SE ABS Posts: 72
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That would be awesome if it really is. And it would save me some money. Thanks!
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May 28th, 2014, 01:27 PM | #4 |
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Name: Rebecca
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I think I did one around 50. Didn't notice any metal shavings.
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May 28th, 2014, 02:10 PM | #5 |
wat
Name: wat
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the shavings are from things like the rings breaking in, and small bits of the case casting defects. they get collected in the oil filter. follow the kawi recommended schedule
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May 28th, 2014, 04:42 PM | #6 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
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I followed the service manual, regardless of other ideas around
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May 28th, 2014, 05:24 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Zak
Location: Reading, pa
Join Date: May 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 SE ABS Posts: 72
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Ok. I'm actually reading through my owners manual right now. Thanks for the input guys!
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May 28th, 2014, 08:01 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Greg
Location: Rhode Island
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2013 ZX6R 636 Posts: A lot.
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I did my 250, cbr600 and 636 somewhere between 500-600 miles. Nothing weird in the oil. Do what you feel comfortable with
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May 28th, 2014, 08:11 PM | #9 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
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I spoke with an experienced engine builder the other day about break-in and related stuff like oil and oil changes.
He recommended a quick first oil change on a new or rebuilt engine, but he wasn't specific. I would say 300-500mi would be a decent number. It's not like the engine will blow if you don't, but he felt that changing it early was a good idea overall. |
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May 28th, 2014, 08:19 PM | #10 |
Ninjette Jockey
Name: Tim
Location: Stockton, Ca
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My Ninjette had a fair amount of metallic bits on the filter and in the oil at the first oil change. I recommend cleaning the oil screen as well during the first change. Mine had particles there also. Be sure to buy the large and small o-rings if buying the Kawasaki brand filter. Some after market filters come with the o-rings, which is nice.
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May 28th, 2014, 08:33 PM | #11 | |
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Name: Greg
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Quote:
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May 28th, 2014, 11:13 PM | #12 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Rebecca
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^yep it does. Quick and easy.
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June 27th, 2014, 12:26 PM | #13 |
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Name: Panopticon
Location: Toronto
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I'm about to do my first change @ 900km of easy/moderate break-in(just can't move with traffic below 6k) so I'll report my findings. I've been told to expect some particles. Also moving to a K&N KN-303 filter.
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June 27th, 2014, 11:57 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: scott
Location: australia
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 ninja 250r se Posts: 435
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4 oil and filter changes before 1000km's
3000km's per oil and filter change. Odo reading 10500kms Oil and Filter cheap, Motor not!!!! |
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June 28th, 2014, 04:49 AM | #15 |
Que Buenos Son!!!
Name: Ryan
Location: Grovetucky, OH
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia Shiver 750, Husaberg FE 450, Ninja 300 (sold), xr100 Posts: A lot.
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I did the first oil change on the 300 at a little over 600 miles. The oil still looked pretty clean and had no metal particles in it. After that I've been changing it at around every 3k miles, and at the beginning of the season. Shell Rotella T6 and OEM oil filter every time.
Some of you guys change your oil way too much it sounds like. There's a reason that Kawi calls for the fist oil change at 600 miles and not 50, sheesh... The truth is that these engines will last for a lot longer, even with minimal care, then most of you will have the bike. Also, this is the 300 section, just sayin.
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October 22nd, 2015, 09:53 AM | #16 | |
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Name: Al
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N300 Oil filters
Found the oil filters in wiki and posting here so I can find it on my phone
Quote:
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October 22nd, 2015, 10:44 AM | #17 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Michael
Location: Tehachapi, CA
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 Posts: 160
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Go KnN 303
Its what I use (we sell them at work, employee discount FTW) Great filter! I did my first oil change at 500, and again at 1200. DONT ride it easy, rings need high engine load to break in properly. |
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October 22nd, 2015, 10:58 AM | #18 |
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Follow your owners manual re break-in/first oil change and you'll be riding around at 30 mph for weeks. Just look at the rpm limit....
I bought my 2011 GSX-R brand-new and followed the Calsci break-in procedure. That first oil change (for me at 70 miles, because that's the distance from the dealer to home), the oil was pearly with metal flakes. That made a believer out of me. Imagine all that stuff floating around for hundreds of miles.... Bike is great, now at about 10k miles. Here's the page. Scroll down for the procedure, along with the logic behind it. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html Will you damage the engine by following the manual? Of course not. Those bits of metal might cause a little extra wear... they're not big chunks, after all... but it's unlikely your bike will die an early death if you wait until the factory-recommended first change mileage. Does that mean the manual procedure is a sacred ritual and nothing else is acceptable? Of course not. There's more than one way to skin the cat. This is like ongoing oil change advice. Changing religiously every X miles as if the thing will grenade if you one mile over is silly. Ever heard of that happening? I haven't....
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October 22nd, 2015, 12:00 PM | #19 | |
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The KN 401, Napa 4941, and Fram 6012 are the internal ones I use on my bike. Thought you guys had a canister?
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October 22nd, 2015, 12:19 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
Looks like they fit both
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October 23rd, 2015, 05:44 AM | #21 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Aaron
Location: Winder, GA
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 718
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As alex.s mentioned, this is why you have an oil filter, so don't worry about it and just follow the recommended schedule. Change the oil too early and you run the "risk" of not having removed all of that excess metal and such and you'll just end up with more of it in your pan/filter at the next change.
Re: third party filters; IIRC, the KN-303 does not have the same bypass pressure as the Kawi OEM filter. This is very much personal preference, but I'd rather eat the $5 difference every few thousand miles and simply use the OEM filter to ensure that I'm not bypassing too much or restricting flow when it's needed.
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October 23rd, 2015, 06:49 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
Do regular strong pulls (high load/low RPM) without bogging, but shift around the recommended RPMs for a while. Load produces high cylinder pressure which helps seat the rings. Some new engines will come with a "break-in" oil. One of my cars did. It had a odd smell and didn't feel like regular oil. I ran it about 1500 mi. It never got dark, which lead me to think it was non-detergent. There will be metal in the oil from parts wearing-in, but the oil filter and a magnetic drain plug should catch it. I wouldn't wait to change the oil at the "regular" recommended interval the first time, but i don't think you want to do it immediately either. I would give the engine at least 500 mi on the original oil, then not go with a full synthetic until the second oil change. Some high-end synthetics have Moly, which will reduce wear. You want some wear initially. |
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October 23rd, 2015, 06:58 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Not disagreeing, just wondering what your reasoning is, beyond the presence of special "break-in oil" which is something bikes don't come with AFAIK. As noted above, I followed the Calsci procedure for my GSX-R. After 70 miles, the oil was pearly with metal particles... that means they weren't caught by the filter or the magnetic plug. That made me think "gee, guess it really is a good idea to change early, given that I can actually see metal in there...." Totally unscientific I admit, but compelliing. The thing about oil threads is that sooner or later, you'll hear every possible opinion cited as THE TRUTH. Which suggests to me that we tend to overthink this stuff.....
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I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem. |
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October 23rd, 2015, 07:55 AM | #24 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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What is soon? What is not so soon?
It's all a judgement call. If you change it too soon, and there's still more metal being removed, should you change it again and again? I don't know. I know what I've done, and what I've learned from top engine builders that I respect, but I'm not trying to say there is only one right answer - just what I think is reasonable. |
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October 26th, 2015, 01:11 PM | #25 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Michael
Location: Tehachapi, CA
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 Posts: 160
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Quote:
I think you are right, factory fill oil is probably a straight weight, full dino non-synthetic, non detergent oil. Mine came out looking like a metallic version of the darker green color Ninjette uses for its forum pages at 500 miles. Good point here, top quality synthetics have 'metal' additives that 'plate out' onto various surfaces under pressure. These help protect from metal to metal contact wear and do a great job of it. Not what you want for brand new piston rings... Side note, I think the oem filter gets clogged very quickly in the initial few miles and triggers the internal by-pass... Might be a good idea to change the filter a couple times, like once at 80-120 and again at 300-400, before actually changing the oil? |
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