Water pipe came out....

headshrink · April 29th, 2011, 08:15 PM

I was taking my valve cover off because I'm trouble-shooting a tasty sound. I think I have confirmed the EX valves on #1 were to loose. But here is the issue.... Rather than follow the SM directions, I used the shortcut in the DIY, by leaving the radiator and hoses on. As I was finagling the valve cover off, I inadvertently pulled off the metal water pipe that comes out off the top end (the pipe that has that tab for the valve cover)

. I didn't know this came out...... Do I have a problem, or will shoving it back down ensure I won't have any leaks? I can't find mention of it in the SM.

THANKS!

headshrink · April 29th, 2011, 08:41 PM

How do these posts get indexed by google almost immediately!? Times sure have changed.

headshrink · April 29th, 2011, 11:05 PM

Anyone know, or should I start ordering parts?
(do I REALLY save money DIY?)

Alex · April 29th, 2011, 11:20 PM

I dunno.

What nasty sound are you troubleshooting?

headshrink · April 30th, 2011, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

I dunno.

What nasty sound are you troubleshooting?

Nasty metalic tapping. Clearance was to much on #1 ex.

randomwalk101 · April 30th, 2011, 03:02 AM

Just put it back in. Should be okay...I think. Worst case is getting a new one but I dont think you have to. Can you do a YouTube video on how to adjust valve? I'm still confused with the diy.

headshrink · May 1st, 2011, 05:02 PM

A few related issues here......

I got it all back together, and it seems OK. I did learn why that annoying tab is on the valve cover... The pipe slips into the hole in the top of the engine, and has an O-ring near the end (similar to the shuttle boosters). The tab on the valve cover is what holds it secure in place. So when you unbolt your valve cover, the only thing holding it in is friction from the O-ring. That is why it can be pulled out so easily if you leave your cooling system intact. Unfortunately I got a bit of coolant INSIDE my engine.... now I have milky oil... nice. So I get to do an oil change tonight.

I redid my valve clearances (tighter) and the tapping is somewhat reduced, although still present. I am finding I don't get repeatable results with my feeler gauges. I have the head knowledge, but need to have someone physically show me what too tight feels like, too loose, and just right. I also noticed when I use my digi micrometer, as opposed to my digi vernier caliper, the added decimal can yield enough of a difference to give me the next shim in the equation. So, when all was said and done, I ended up with nearly the same shims I had BEFORE the last valve adjustment 1K miles ago when I loosened it too much. Technically, however, I was never out of spec at either end.... I just went from barely within spec (tight -> loose -> tight).

I did notice the beginnings of a little wear on the cam gears. I think this is due to switching to the manual CCT last service (1K ago). I was careful not to go too tight (I think), but it is a delicate balance. I stopped just at the point it stopped making noise. Online the DIYs say once you hit the point the chain noise stops, tighten another 1/4 turn and stop, but the manufacturer says the opposite.... which would basically leave you with the same noisy chain the OEM CCT gives you. 1/4 turn is a LOT of tension. Let's hope splitting the difference is the sweetspot.... but I may back it off 1/16-1/8 to be safe due to the wear.

randomwalk: I wouldn't mind doing the video at some point, but don't feel confident enough yet, with all the errors and all that I am still making. I take a stab at answering any questions though....

Anyone know how many oil changes it should take to get rid of the milk?

ricochet08 · May 2nd, 2011, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

Just put it back in. Should be okay...I think. Worst case is getting a new one but I dont think you have to. Can you do a YouTube video on how to adjust valve? I'm still confused with the diy.

you've been waiting for a vid on this for a while haven't you?

randomwalk101 · May 3rd, 2011, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricochet08

you've been waiting for a vid on this for a while haven't you?

Yep. I'm about to due for a valve adjustment

randomwalk101 · May 3rd, 2011, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by headshrink

A few related issues here......

randomwalk: I wouldn't mind doing the video at some point, but don't feel confident enough yet, with all the errors and all that I am still making. I take a stab at answering any questions though....

I imagine one oil change & take the oil filter out to drain all oil in there would be enough.

Btw, if you do a video, perhaps the expert like racerx can see what you do wrong too ( if any)

headshrink · May 3rd, 2011, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

I imagine one oil change & take the oil filter out to drain all oil in there would be enough.

Btw, if you do a video, perhaps the expert like racerx can see what you do wrong too ( if any)

good point.

I started seeing a noticeable, but not complete, difference on the second oil change. I've done 3, but will do 4 or 5.... depends on how much cheap oil I have left. The key was to do it when it is burning hot. Some of the slime is left under the oil cap... reminds me of arterial plaque, only not as hard. Moral of the story = don't mix oil and antifreeze.

April 29th, 2011, 08:41 PM	#2
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	How do these posts get indexed by google almost immediately!? Times sure have changed. __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

April 29th, 2011, 11:05 PM	#3
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	Anyone know, or should I start ordering parts? (do I REALLY save money DIY?) __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

April 29th, 2011, 11:20 PM	#4
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	I dunno. What nasty sound are you troubleshooting? __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

May 1st, 2011, 05:02 PM	#7
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	A few related issues here...... I got it all back together, and it seems OK. I did learn why that annoying tab is on the valve cover... The pipe slips into the hole in the top of the engine, and has an O-ring near the end (similar to the shuttle boosters). The tab on the valve cover is what holds it secure in place. So when you unbolt your valve cover, the only thing holding it in is friction from the O-ring. That is why it can be pulled out so easily if you leave your cooling system intact. Unfortunately I got a bit of coolant INSIDE my engine.... now I have milky oil... nice. So I get to do an oil change tonight. I redid my valve clearances (tighter) and the tapping is somewhat reduced, although still present. I am finding I don't get repeatable results with my feeler gauges. I have the head knowledge, but need to have someone physically show me what too tight feels like, too loose, and just right. I also noticed when I use my digi micrometer, as opposed to my digi vernier caliper, the added decimal can yield enough of a difference to give me the next shim in the equation. So, when all was said and done, I ended up with nearly the same shims I had BEFORE the last valve adjustment 1K miles ago when I loosened it too much. Technically, however, I was never out of spec at either end.... I just went from barely within spec (tight -> loose -> tight). I did notice the beginnings of a little wear on the cam gears. I think this is due to switching to the manual CCT last service (1K ago). I was careful not to go too tight (I think), but it is a delicate balance. I stopped just at the point it stopped making noise. Online the DIYs say once you hit the point the chain noise stops, tighten another 1/4 turn and stop, but the manufacturer says the opposite.... which would basically leave you with the same noisy chain the OEM CCT gives you. 1/4 turn is a LOT of tension. Let's hope splitting the difference is the sweetspot.... but I may back it off 1/16-1/8 to be safe due to the wear. randomwalk: I wouldn't mind doing the video at some point, but don't feel confident enough yet, with all the errors and all that I am still making. I take a stab at answering any questions though.... Anyone know how many oil changes it should take to get rid of the milk? __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

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April 29th, 2011, 08:15 PM	#1
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	Water pipe came out.... I was taking my valve cover off because I'm trouble-shooting a tasty sound. I think I have confirmed the EX valves on #1 were to loose. But here is the issue.... Rather than follow the SM directions, I used the shortcut in the DIY, by leaving the radiator and hoses on. As I was finagling the valve cover off, I inadvertently pulled off the metal water pipe that comes out off the top end (the pipe that has that tab for the valve cover). I didn't know this came out...... Do I have a problem, or will shoving it back down ensure I won't have any leaks? I can't find mention of it in the SM. THANKS! __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

April 30th, 2011, 03:02 AM	#6
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	Just put it back in. Should be okay...I think. Worst case is getting a new one but I dont think you have to. Can you do a YouTube video on how to adjust valve? I'm still confused with the diy.