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Old October 7th, 2021, 01:18 AM   #81
Dizzy
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How's it going thought I'm gonna check this thread out as you restore the bike I just joined yesterday to ask a question because never worked on any 250s or smaller engines but WOW man getting work done it Nice 👍 that's a big undertaking looking at pictures at the start of this thread IDK if I would have started this restoration....

I'm just happy the one I bought a couple days ago that I'm giving some TLC too is going to be a walk in the park to get it running & cleaned up but I got a hidden diamond of a bike read the post I posted on it earlier....

But I'll be watching this to see the turn out And is that oil report from that bike you got for 220$ that one your restoring??? How did a quart and a half of gas get into the oil???

I'm surprised with that much fuel in the oil that it didn't grenade the motor when it was running especially hitting the high rpms that's alot of fuel in the oil wow that's nuts and i've seen my dad's nitro bike blo I'm up going down the drag strip no thanks he never let off the gas never knew he was on fire 😂🤣😂

Last futzed with by Dizzy; October 7th, 2021 at 01:32 AM. Reason: Aaaaaaaaaaaaa
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Old October 7th, 2021, 01:20 AM   #82
BonelessSugar
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Moving purchase list/to-do list here.

Purchased list:
  • (in) side covers ($35 left, $24 right)
  • (in) fairing hardware ($22)
  • (in) front tire (shinko 740) ($60, doesn't include mounting)
  • (in) airbox assembly ($53)
  • (ON)(in) air filter (airbox came with one, wasn't aware) ($12)
  • (ON)(in) fuel tank dampers (2) (bought the wrong ones... 92075-1690 instead of 92075-1115) ($18) + ($21)
  • (ON)(in) battery tender ($26) and extension cord ($5)
  • (ON)(in) J-B weld (steelstik) for carb and clutch lever housing ($8)
  • (in) The Works toilet bowl cleaner for tank ($3)
  • (in) fairing bushings ($7) (probably need more)
  • (ON)(in) clutch locknut and adjuster ($7)
  • (ON)(in) oil (t6 15w40 1gal) ($22) and filter (wix 24941) ($8)
  • (in) PVC ABS cement ($8) (fairing tab)
  • (ON)(in)carb gaskets (gordon) ($50)
  • (ON)(in) Blackstone ($30)
  • (ON)(in) Horn (free)
  • (in) DOT 4 (free)
  • (ON)(in) carb spring clamps (hose clamps) ($8)
  • (ON)(in) ultrasonic cleaner ($95)
  • (ON)(in) 2.95x2.44x1.37 rubber stopper for gas tank ($8)
  • (ON)(in) pine-sol for carb ($11)
  • (ON)(in) new float ($14) (gordon)
  • (in) acetone (plastic repair) ($12)
  • (in) Rage Gold ($73)
  • (ON)(in) Spot weld cutter ($5)
  • (ON)(in) sprocket cover bolts ($13)
  • (ON)(in) petcock gaskets ($23)
  • (in) fuel filter ($9) (5 of them)
  • (ON)(in) solenoid mount ($8) (came with a solenoid)
  • (in) brazing kit ($74)
  • (ON)(in) shade 5 ($8)
  • (in) spot weld cutter #2 ($5)
  • bar, intake, coolant, peg ($19)
  • (ON)(in) petcock bolts (M3x0.5x5) and nylon washer ($3)
  • caliper seals ($43)
  • (in) tire lube ($18)
  • ABS ($12)
  • (in) 3 tire levers (free)

Total running cost:
$1050

Still need to buy (~$100):
  • Maybe extra tire valve stems 11.3mm ($8/pair)
  • fork dust caps ($10)
  • shorty levers (don't like the stock ones and clutch lever needs spacers) ($30-60)
  • front tire mount ($50) (going to try to do it myself)
  • (thinking about going white, green, or yellow. I went through a very long thread here with colour templates and liked a couple) (leaning towards white body with green/yellow decals/frame) paint and decal ($50)
maybe something like this, needs more 90s vibe though.


Still need to do:
  1. front foot peg brazed, threaded, bolted
  2. airbox cap gasket (danno)
  3. airbox in (bracket first)
  4. handlebars drilled, tapped, weighted, back on
  5. battery situation (finish bracket, see about tie downs)
  6. sync carb (ghostt, feeler gauge)
  7. inline fuel filter cut
  8. braze tank tab
  9. gas tank rust (The Works, it works)
  10. gas tank dent (body filler, braze)
  11. Install carb
  12. cables back on
  13. Mount tire
  14. coolant tank installed
  15. New coolant
  16. check thermostat operation
  17. try to start bike
  18. plastic weld (danno post, time consuming)
  19. front tire mounted (self probably, $50 local)
  20. brake seals/rebuild
  21. brake bleed (after tire)
  22. wrap harness
  23. clean and oil chain
  24. spark plug cover? (nah?)
  25. mount plastics (hardware has been cut)
  26. Paint plastics
  27. Braided lines

Last futzed with by BonelessSugar; October 23rd, 2021 at 09:53 PM.
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Old October 7th, 2021, 01:26 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy View Post
that's a big undertaking looking at pictures at the start of this thread IDK if I would have started this restoration....
It's turning out to be more work than I initially thought, but that's pretty normal. Gotta expect to have a few snags.

Quote:
But I'll be watching this to see the turn out
Expecting another 1-2 months minimum. If the engine grenades, +++.

Quote:
And is that oil report from that bike you got for 220$ that one your restoring ???
Yes.

Quote:
Surprised with that much fuel in the oil that it didn't granade when it was running especially hitting the high rpms that's alot of fuel in the oil wow that's nuts and i've seen my dad's nitro bike blow up going down the drag strip no thanks he never let off the gas never knew he was on fire lol.....

how did that much fuel get into the oil??
Probably did at some point or something, engine's been replaced (the carb also has EX written on it, so maybe that's been replaced too, I'm really not sure what's original to this bike anymore ). Not sure how 1/16 a tank of fuel got in the oil, someone else probably has a better idea than me, comments on the analysis said "maybe stuck float, or leaking float needle valve". Float needle valves looked fine on disassembly.
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Old October 7th, 2021, 02:08 AM   #84
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Mmmm wow that makes since alot actually because when I change my oil it looked like it has some water in it I was thinking it was from years of sitting but bet it was fuel leaking threw the piston rings Into the oil sweet didn't even think about that because Milky oil is usually always water
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Old October 7th, 2021, 01:55 PM   #85
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Iím very very sorrow for your loss
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Old October 7th, 2021, 02:15 PM   #86
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Mmmm wow that makes since alot actually because when I change my oil it looked like it has some water in it I was thinking it was from years of sitting but bet it was fuel leaking threw the piston rings Into the oil sweet didn't even think about that because Milky oil is usually always water
Gasoline won't make oil look milky because it mixes. They're both non-polar solvents. Water, being a polar solvent, won't mix with oil, but it can emulsify like Italian salad dressing that's well shaken. Then it looks whitish.
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Old October 7th, 2021, 02:35 PM   #87
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not uncommon to have leaky petcock which continuously drip petrol into carbs. Then carbs with non-sealing float-valves just drip that petrol down intake-tracts into cylinders. Which then drips past rings over time and into crank case.

This happened on my 2009 Ninja 250 and caused stripping of starter ring-gear. Also happened to '85 VF500 parts-bike I got dirt cheap because engine was "seized". When I opened oil-filler cap, over gallon of oil+petrol mixture gushed out! Fixed petcock and carbs on that bike, which ran perfectly fine afterwards. Ended up giving that one to my brother.
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Old October 7th, 2021, 02:50 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
not uncommon to have leaky petcock which continuously drip petrol into carbs.
Yep that's the case here.

Quote:
Then carbs with non-sealing float-valves just drip that petrol down intake-tracts into cylinders. Which then drips past rings over time and into crank case.
Ah ok. Then just depends on how long this's been the case.

Quote:
This happened on my 2009 Ninja 250 and caused stripping of starter ring-gear. Also happened to '85 VF500 parts-bike I got dirt cheap because engine was "seized". When I opened oil-filler cap, over gallon of oil+petrol mixture gushed out! Fixed petcock and carbs on that bike, which ran perfectly fine afterwards. Ended up giving that one to my brother.
Well that's some good news, relatively. Guess it's probably not that severe then, awesome.
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Old October 9th, 2021, 09:58 PM   #89
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Petcock is rebuilt, very hard to turn though because I think supplied o-ring was thicker than original. Any way to fix this? Just becomes easier with use?

Seems like 4/7 screws for the petcock also just freely spin if I tried to tighten them down too far, so I avoided stripping them.

Plastic spacer took a minute to figure out how to remove.

No fuel in off position, very slow drip in reserve bc maybe 1/2gal in the tank. Sounds fixed to me.

Tire is getting mounted tomorrow. Accidentally took both wheels off because I'm dumb.

Removing carbs and wet testing and syncing sometime this week, probably not tomorrow. Need to look up how to do that and what someone said about an easy way to remove the carbs.

Cold ride today on other bike, 55F max. Filled the tank, put stabilizer in, drained the bowls, put tender on. Pretty sure that's it for winterization, lemme know if I'm missing anything.
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Old October 10th, 2021, 05:33 AM   #90
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Petcock is rebuilt, very hard to turn though because I think supplied o-ring was thicker than original. Any way to fix this? Just becomes easier with use?
Get the right size O-ring and/or put some EZ-Turn fuel lube on it. It is a grease that is not dissolved by gasoline. Here's what I mean, but the seller is just an example to show the product:
https://www.wagaero.com/maintenance/...5-oz-tube.html

Quote:
Seems like 4/7 screws for the petcock also just freely spin if I tried to tighten them down too far, so I avoided stripping them.
From what you just said, they are already stripped.
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Old October 10th, 2021, 08:11 AM   #91
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Also on outside of petcock, between lever-spring-body, I like to use a little silicone-grease as well. A little blue loctite on screws would help if you're careful. Can also try fresh screws for a little more thread.
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Old October 10th, 2021, 01:04 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
Get the right size O-ring and/or put some EZ-Turn fuel lube on it. It is a grease that is not dissolved by gasoline. Here's what I mean, but the seller is just an example to show the product:
https://www.wagaero.com/maintenance/...5-oz-tube.html
Might sand down the oring a tiny bit instead.

Quote:
from what you just said, they are already stripped.
Probably.

Tire place closed at noon, I got there at noon thirty. :/

One of the petcock bolts is missing the plastic washer so I put a metal one on.
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Old October 10th, 2021, 06:06 PM   #93
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Personally I would use this process for fastest, least effort (re-uses original bracket):

1. cut 1/16" steel circle 1.5cm diameter and braze it around hole to seal tank

2. make legs for fairing bracket from 1/16" steel, 1x4cm. Braze along top & bottom sides of bracket 1st so it's U-shaped. Then line up on tank and trim legs as necessary to position (measure other side as guide)*. Braze to tank when position finalised.

3. fill gap between bracket and tank will body-filler and shape as necessary.


* I think I would cut cardboard and lay horizontally next to tank and intersect bracket hole on good side as template. Trim so it fits flush with outline of tank & bracket. Then flip over to other side to use as guide for positioning repaired bracket.

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Old October 10th, 2021, 11:42 PM   #94
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cut 1/16" steel circle 30cm diameter and braze it around hole to seal tank
If you're talk about the dent in the tank, it might make more sense to roughly shape the metal at that point than to build it up with a bracket. Something like make a wet sand mould. Then eyeball it with filler. Just concerned about the hollow inside if that matters at all.
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Old October 11th, 2021, 01:22 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
If you're talk about the dent in the tank, it might make more sense to roughly shape the metal at that point than to build it up with a bracket. Something like make a wet sand mould. Then eyeball it with filler. Just concerned about the hollow inside if that matters at all.
Sorry, I mis-typed my units, not 30cm, more like 1.5cm
What I'm saying is to cover hole at bottom of dent with metal circle just big enough to cover hole and leave it.

Then raise up factory threaded bracket with legs to proper height.
Like a bridge above dent.

This will then place threads for fairing at stock location. Whether you fill up dent or not with filler won't make difference to functionality of bracket since it's placed in proper location with 2 walls to raise it above dent.

Least amount of work and brazing. You just need to tack pieces in place with tiny brass drops. Can then bend and grind into proper position and do final seam at very end.
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Old October 11th, 2021, 08:31 AM   #96
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Oh yeah that makes a lot more sense now, ok.

Air filter housing has 10 screws like normal, but taking it apart again I noticed that one screw is shorter than all the others. Is it supposed to have a specific location that it's put in? Diagram doesn't seem to say they're any different, but does point out a gasket that connects the two pieces that I didn't know about, but after checking apparently I do have that.
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Old October 11th, 2021, 06:52 PM   #97
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Cleaned swingarm because I removed the rear wheel. Also let me disassemble and reassemble the airbox because I couldn't get the plastic part that doesn't have mesh on it into the box again. (13091A)




Airbox screws I was talking about. All 10.



Airbox gasket



Air box diagram, don't know what 92071 (reservoir grommet) ((might have on)), 92072 (air filter band) ((battery strap, $25, I'll figure something else out probably)), and 11012 (air filter cap, $35) are... I think I need to order a 11012-1504



Solenoid mount came in, not a perfect fit to the solenoid but close enough to make work.



Found a brake boot dust cover that wasn't fully seated and seated it. Probably will go around and regrease the slides for the calipers later, should take no time.



Chain has 2 dry rusty links, probably fine for 500mi?



Picked up bolts for the sprocket cover because the ones I got were still wrong. It's M5x1.00, not 1/4x28 or 1/4x20.

Last futzed with by BonelessSugar; October 11th, 2021 at 08:01 PM.
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Old October 11th, 2021, 07:00 PM   #98
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Petcock disassembly pics. Didn't do a great job at taking pics or cleaning this.

11009 is spring washer, 92055 is lever gasket, 92022 is plastic bolt washer, 670 comes on new part already, 51039 came not pre-formed.



Cover comes off first, 5 screws.



Then took off faceplate thing for the lever.



Pulled apart, gross inside



Thought about how to take this plastic piece out for a bit.



Popped the lever off while I thought. Spring washer came with it.



Crusty petcock gasket. The new one is also firm as well.



Torn outer part of vacuum gasket?



Figured out how to get the plastic part out.





Made sure the side hole was clean.



New one, make sure plastic part is facing the right side when putting on.



3/4 old pieces



Into the cleaner everything goes.



Only used water, didn't do amazing but way better than before. Also used a bunch of Q tips to clean because I didn't wanna whip out the air compressor at 1am.



Taking it apart again for the lever gasket to be sanded.
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Old October 11th, 2021, 08:52 PM   #99
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I think I need to order a 11012-1504
I actually have spare air-intake cap. I'll crack open your box and stuff it in. Missed post run today.
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Old October 11th, 2021, 09:59 PM   #100
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Hahaha, that'd be awesome!
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Old October 12th, 2021, 06:08 AM   #101
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Missed post run today.

That's OK, Monday was Columbus Day, a postal holiday.
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Old October 12th, 2021, 07:39 AM   #102
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That's OK, Monday was Columbus Day, a postal holiday.
annoying thing is post lobby used to be self-serve 24/7. They'd have boxes and machine that weighed and printed labels with postage. Now, lobby's all locked up after-hours!

Well, I ordered whole pile of boxes from them so I can do all my own packing & shipping from home.
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Old October 12th, 2021, 07:59 AM   #103
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Well, I ordered whole pile of boxes from them so I can do all my own packing & shipping from home.
That's the only way to fly! My tiny business has done that for 12 years now. We just pack, put on the label, and I put the packages in my mailbox. It's a little cheaper than what you pay at a Post Office too.

Check out shippingeasy.com They have some nice tools for shipping, and with their "one balance" deal you can print labels and ship by USPS, UPS, FedEx and others.
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Old October 13th, 2021, 10:42 AM   #104
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So, I'm under the impression that a bolt broke off inside of one of the sprocket cover holes. Am I right or are the threads supposed to be this shallow compared to the lower one that should be the same length? Bolt doesn't fit all the way in, ofc.

I wanna be sure before I try to extract this thing.
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Old October 14th, 2021, 10:03 AM   #105
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So, I'm under the impression that a bolt broke off inside of one of the sprocket cover holes. Am I right or are the threads supposed to be this shallow compared to the lower one that should be the same length? Bolt doesn't fit all the way in, ofc.

I wanna be sure before I try to extract this thing.
Your right
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Old October 14th, 2021, 10:50 AM   #106
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Petcock disassembly pics. Didn't do a great job at taking pics or cleaning this.

11009 is spring washer, 92055 is lever gasket, 92022 is plastic bolt washer, 670 comes on new part already, 51039 came not pre-formed.



Cover comes off first, 5 screws.



Then took off faceplate thing for the lever.



Pulled apart, gross inside



Thought about how to take this plastic piece out for a bit.



Popped the lever off while I thought. Spring washer came with it.



Crusty petcock gasket. The new one is also firm as well.



Torn outer part of vacuum gasket?



Figured out how to get the plastic part out.





Made sure the side hole was clean.



New one, make sure plastic part is facing the right side when putting on.



3/4 old pieces



Into the cleaner everything goes.



Only used water, didn't do amazing but way better than before. Also used a bunch of Q tips to clean because I didn't wanna whip out the air compressor at 1am.



Taking it apart again for the lever gasket to be sanded.
I’d like to rebuild mine it’s just sitting in my drawer as I sand down my gas tank. Where did you find your rebuild kit? The long filter broke on mine
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Old October 14th, 2021, 12:27 PM   #107
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I’d like to rebuild mine it’s just sitting in my drawer as I sand down my gas tank. Where did you find your rebuild kit? The long filter broke on mine
Check out this link for procedure: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuil...tcock/fuel_tap
But be aware that A LOT of info is outdated or simply just wrong.

In this case, it references K&L Petcock rebuild kit #18-2723 for '86-87 1st-gen Ninja 250 (also for ZX600A). Correct K&L kit for '88-07 is #18-2702 which has all correct parts. So you don't have to buy any additional pieces from Kawi dealer.

https://jetsrus.com/petcock/a_petcoc..._kawasaki.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202828041869
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312734032287
https://www.radiumbdp.com/index.php?...ucts_id=379306
https://www.peakmoto.com/products/k-...x250-1988-2007
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0988Z7M87
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Old October 14th, 2021, 12:49 PM   #108
shspvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Check out this link for procedure: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuil...tcock/fuel_tap
But be aware that A LOT of info is outdated or simply just wrong.

In this case, it references K&L Petcock rebuild kit #18-2723 for '86-87 1st-gen Ninja 250 (also for ZX600A). Correct K&L kit for '88-07 is #18-2702 which has all correct parts. So you don't have to buy any additional pieces from Kawi dealer.

https://jetsrus.com/petcock/a_petcoc..._kawasaki.html
what is out date and what info is wrong there DanoXYZ ?.
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Old October 14th, 2021, 02:40 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by shspvr View Post
what is out date and what info is wrong there DanoXYZ ?.
Procedure starts out with using '86-87 rebuild kit and saying you have to buy diaphragm separately from Kawi. Only at very end, there's addendum saying that real kit for '88-07 exists. Should've mentioned that at very beginning. Or replace info completely and use '88-07 kit from beginning and not mention '86-87 (or have separate section for that model).

Lots of pages on 250FAQ has misinformation like this. A lot of it is also personal opinion without supporting facts and data. I'd say take it 50/50, but verify everything.
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Old October 14th, 2021, 02:49 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Procedure starts out with using '86-87 rebuild kit and saying you have to buy diaphragm separately from Kawi. Only at very end, there's addendum that real kit for '88-07 exists. Should've mentioned that at very beginning.

Lots of pages on 250FAQ has misinformation like this. A lot of it is also personal opinion without supporting facts and data. I'd say take it 50/50, but question everything.
I see it just the way they wrote it what helps is the photo
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Old October 15th, 2021, 12:33 AM   #111
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Quote:
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I’d like to rebuild mine it’s just sitting in my drawer as I sand down my gas tank. Where did you find your rebuild kit? The long filter broke on mine
Post #72.

Quote:
getting an in-line filter instead of replacing the mesh on the petcock. using K&L 18-2702 via darkhorse to replace gaskets on petcock.
make sure it's a 5/16 and not a 1/4 inline fuel filter if you get one.

petcock rebuild kit

inline fuel filters to replace missing ones on petcock (these fit)

chose inline fuel filter instead of petcock one because I read a post somewhere here that theyre supposed to be better.
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Old October 15th, 2021, 12:56 AM   #112
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im having a tough time popping the caliper pots out, but im also not using a clamp on one of them. is that step necessary? lever doesnt push them out anymore and i dont really have anything to grip with pliers as a result.
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Old October 15th, 2021, 08:30 AM   #113
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Your right
Turns out it was just really hard compacted mud, with some sort of "thread repair" thing that left a bunch of residue on the bolt and gave a good amount of resistance when threading in the first time. Used a punch before drilling and it just kinda dented in without the resistance of metal. Spraying a solvent in helped with the mud and running it in and out cleared it up. Seems to be holding just fine, but the initial insertion is definitely looser than the other two.
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Old October 15th, 2021, 12:12 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
im having a tough time popping the caliper pots out, but im also not using a clamp on one of them. is that step necessary? lever doesnt push them out anymore and i dont really have anything to grip with pliers as a result.
Squirt liberal amounts of PB-Blaster on pistons to clean off corrosion. Push them all way in. Then squeeze lever again to gradually push them out. Might need to go in & out several times.

I use C-clamp between pistons to limit travel of one moving out faster so 2nd one can catch up. Then loosen C-clamp and repeat.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; October 16th, 2021 at 02:02 AM.
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Old October 15th, 2021, 07:50 PM   #115
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Got the big one to work its way out. The small one was moving, but I pushed it back in all the way and now it won't move out at all. Sanded the corrosion off of the big one, going to order seals because the ones I took off the big one look a little smushed/twisted? I'll post pics here tomorrow.
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Old October 16th, 2021, 05:17 PM   #116
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Still can't get it to pop out, but now it at least has a good amount that has come out. That seal does not look happy. Got it to start pressing out by bleeding the caliper upside down so that the nipple was the highest point.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_201455.jpg (53.0 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_201510.jpg (52.0 KB, 8 views)
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Old October 16th, 2021, 06:35 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
Still can't get it to pop out, but now it at least has a good amount that has come out. That seal does not look happy. Got it to start pressing out by bleeding the caliper upside down so that the nipple was the highest point.
What need is a Multi-Purpose Strap Wrench
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Old October 16th, 2021, 06:48 PM   #118
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I was using pliers with a rag wrapped around them. That's a good idea.
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Old October 16th, 2021, 08:53 PM   #119
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Popped out the small one, the large pot needed to stay clamped to build pressure in the small one. Drained, sanded the caliper, pulled corrosion out of the gasket areas with a pick, sanded the pots down, should be all good when the seals come in. Of course I had to spill over all the brake fluid in the catch container when I was done. Classic. I'll probably end up going back in here with some steel wool and a screwdriver or something and getting the rest of the crud out of those seal galleys.

I'm thinking about leaving the banjo bolts untouched because I didn't need to remove them. Would it be a good idea to replace their washers, or am I fine to leave them alone?

Service schedule seems to say that I should replace the brake hoses by now, so I guess I'll order some of those and do the banjo bolt washers with them?

Same with fuel hoses.

Schedule also says to replace the master cylinder cup and dust seal, but it seems fine so I'll probably leave that alone unless told otherwise.

I have absolutely no idea how necessary any of this stuff is.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_225911.jpg (54.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_225919.jpg (45.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_225927.jpg (36.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_233923.jpg (56.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_233928.jpg (53.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_233943.jpg (62.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_234251.jpg (45.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20211016_234853.jpg (29.0 KB, 9 views)

Last futzed with by BonelessSugar; October 16th, 2021 at 10:09 PM.
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Old October 16th, 2021, 09:10 PM   #120
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I would say your fine to leave the washers on the banjo bolts IF IT ISN'T BROKE DON'T fix it lol that's what they say.... But good looking progress on it pretty soon she will breath in and
come back to life
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