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Old October 6th, 2021, 01:10 PM   #1
Dizzy
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01 ninja 250r help

Bought a 01 250r that sat in a barn for 10-15 years after old owner died it's very clean just sat causing problems only has 6 miles on speedo so wasn't ran very long so I pulled carb took apart cleaned it up etc waiting for brother to bring me carb cleaner to finish and then put back togetherbut so I pulled the filter and drained the oil and it is a milky color I know that means water got into the oil somehow
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Old October 6th, 2021, 01:14 PM   #2
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Question is besides the head gasket where could the water be getting into the oil after sitting for years besides the head gasket because can't see the head gasket being blown with only 5-6 miles on the bike any Ninja pros out there got a idea what do y'all think thanks in advance guys
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Old October 6th, 2021, 01:30 PM   #3
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It's hard to say. How much water are we talking about? Is there a little milky color on the dipstick, or did you drain out a quart of water? In 15 years of sitting, the heating and cooling of the days and seasons can draw humid air in and have condensation get in the oil, causing some "mayonnaise" to form in places.
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Old October 6th, 2021, 01:41 PM   #4
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I agree with Danno, it's highly likely that a lot of water condensated over 15 years. I'm willing to bet the hg is fine, but I would put a few drops of Mystery oil through the sparkplug holes and turn the engine over by hand. Dump the old oil/water first of course, and plan to do a full flush/run/repeat on the crankcase oil and coolant a couple times before you really try to run it. Expect to replace a lot of rubber coolant and fuel lines too.
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Old October 6th, 2021, 01:42 PM   #5
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I drained the oil and it is milky white and about 2 quart's maybe a little more but the guy I bought it from wasn't a mechanic or that smart looks like he tried to take the carb apart and couldn't even get the float bowl off and stripped a few screws trying to get it off never did and put it back on had to you use a Dremel and make a flat head on the screws to get them off so I don't know if he added something to the oil or what I'm going to add a quart and a half in a little bit when my brother gets home with the stuff I told him to get and see what happens I'll come back and let y'all know I was just wondering where else it could leak from besides the head gasket ill test the compression and see but with 6 miles on it and how clean the farings and everything looks I can't see it being a problem
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Old October 6th, 2021, 01:46 PM   #6
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And drewski yea I plan to flush it a few times and not run it until it's flushed a couple times then run it and take it for a short ride and check the oil thanks for y'all's replys
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Old October 6th, 2021, 02:20 PM   #7
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I agree with Danno...
Danno?
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Old October 6th, 2021, 02:21 PM   #8
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I drained the oil and it is milky white and about 2 quart's maybe a little more...
I meant if you look at the drained oil in some sort of transparent container, you should be able to see where the oil and water meet, and tell approximately how much water was in there.
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Old October 6th, 2021, 04:19 PM   #9
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There's the bike and last pic is some of the oil I poured into a bottle I think its just old old oil that sat in the bike for years slowly getting water in it changing it and making it look like that....when I went and looked at it and picked it up I used starter fluid and started it up it wouldn't idle but as long as I held the throttle it ran for a second and it sounded good I had it started for a minute or so maybe before it bogged down because of the carb tore it apart and it was dirty and a float was stuck so after its all cleaned up and a little TLC should be completly fine
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Old October 6th, 2021, 05:00 PM   #10
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I agree with Danno,
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Danno?
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Old October 6th, 2021, 05:30 PM   #11
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Any guesses on what I paid for it?? and what do you all think a fair price for it is given the story of it? Oh I have to get a surety bond on it too get a new title for it it was lost I got a bill of sale and ran the VIN number and it's all good so just got to bring the bond to the license plate DMV office for the new title or maybe just ride with a plate I have off a Honda lol but guesses? And what is it worth once I finish the carbs and get it going given it's got 6 miles on it
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Old October 7th, 2021, 12:56 AM   #12
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Any guesses on what I paid for it?? and what do you all think a fair price for it is given the story of it?
2k

Quote:
And what is it worth once I finish the carbs and get it going given it's got 6 miles on it
2.5k

Totally depends on the market. Running bikes in my area have been sitting unsold for months at 1.3k.
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Old October 7th, 2021, 02:01 AM   #13
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2k



2.5k

Totally depends on the market. Running bikes in my area have been sitting unsold for months at 1.3k.
Nope way way less the guy that sold it to me was a complete dummy he tried to take the carb out and apart and didn't even get the float bowls off he stripped 2-3 of the screws smh & then put it back on and put it up for sale because he didn't want to buy new carbs for it & he said the front tire was really dry rotted it still holds air & isn't that horrible but anyways yes he TRIED getting it running couldn't and so after he bought a brand new battery trying to be a mechanic when he wasn't...

I got it a 01 Ninja 250 that's got only 6 miles on it very clean fairings only problem 1 small dent on the tank and gotta rebuild the carb float @ jet needle was stuck from sitting all those years for a whopping 600$ so after I change the oil and when I get the bond to get a title for it then the plate, inspection insurance etc I'll be in it for less then a 1000$ killer deal stole it from the guy in my opinion oh well should have known what he had brand new it was 3,500-4,000$ owner drove it 5 miles then died was parked in a barn and sat for 15+ years then I get to give it life again
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Old October 7th, 2021, 02:12 AM   #14
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Sounds cool, hope you have fun riding
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Old October 7th, 2021, 11:20 AM   #15
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Looks like great deal you got! Carbs will likely need more than just jets and floats. You'll want to scrub out all secret hidden passages. Ultrasonic soak and micro soda-blast everything. Be sure to get JIS screwdriver so you don't strip those float-bowl screws.

Feel this milkshake to see if it's slick. I suspect it may not be since oil+coolant mix from blown headgasket tends to separate into layers after a while.


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Old October 7th, 2021, 04:38 PM   #16
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Looks like great deal you got! Carbs will likely need more than just jets and floats. You'll want to scrub out all secret hidden passages. Ultrasonic soak and micro soda-blast everything. Be sure to get JIS screwdriver so you don't strip those float-bowl screws.

Feel this milkshake to see if it's slick. I suspect it may not be since oil+coolant mix from blown headgasket tends to separate into layers after a while.

You are correct I figured out it was old gas mixed with the oil because of a stuck float and gas pouring into the motor then slowly leaking past the rings and I don't believe the carb will need that intense of a cleaning was only 1 float stuck and the jets looked pretty clean but they are sitting in a sealed container will be leaving everything to soak overnight before I use another can of carb cleaner blasting out every passage single passage I was glad that the only dirty part of the carbs was the bottom of the float bowl After removing the jet and needles I looked at everything and could see threw the tiny holes and I believe that the problem was just the float becoming stuck.... Tomorrow I will be putting the carb back together and putting it back on the bike flushed the motor out and have oil sitting in it I'm going to drain and replace with new oil before I turn the key and throw some fire into the cylinders I will check back in tomorrow and hopefully be a happy camper have a great night everyone
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Old October 7th, 2021, 04:41 PM   #17
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Danno?
Sorry Jim, I meant I agree with whichever one of the two guys who responds to anything technical on this board
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Old October 7th, 2021, 06:43 PM   #18
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Sorry Jim, I meant I agree with whichever one of the two guys who responds to anything technical on this board
That actually made me LOL.
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Old October 12th, 2021, 02:02 PM   #19
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Hey triple Jim where in North Carolina are you I'm around Charlotte
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Old October 12th, 2021, 02:36 PM   #20
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Hey triple Jim where in North Carolina are you I'm around Charlotte
Up by the VA border, north of the triangle.
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Old October 12th, 2021, 03:01 PM   #21
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Cool cool I'm by the SC NC border if I'm ever up that way I'll lyk still trying to get that 250 up and running found the crank sensor unpluged after pulling the carb for the second time smh I'll get it back together and going eventually lol
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Old October 13th, 2021, 11:04 AM   #22
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So I got it back together and everything and it wants to start hooked up battery charger to battery and couldn't find the starter fluid I had so I sprayed a shot of carb cleaner in the box and started it and it ran for a couple seconds and died could the plugs being fouled looking stop it from starting up? Because I pulled one and it was black but thought it should start up maybe I'm wrong and what about the choke how's that supposed to work?
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Old October 13th, 2021, 11:25 AM   #23
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Spraying things like starter fluid is risky to the carb diaphragms.

Starting and running problems of a 250 that's been sitting for a long time are nearly always due to dirty carbs. It's really common for someone not intimately familiar with these carbs to try to clean them and find they're still not clean.
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Old October 13th, 2021, 11:31 AM   #24
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I guess I'll change the plugs because they are black and fouled and see if that does anything this afternoon and I'll take the carb apart and clean it up yet again it really didn't look that bad the float bowl was dirty but the needles were clean and could see the holes on the jets so idk whats next carb rebuild kit if after I go threw it again and nothing that's last resort
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Old October 13th, 2021, 11:39 AM   #25
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I guess I'll change the plugs because they are black and fouled and see if that does anything this afternoon and I'll take the carb apart and clean it up yet again it really didn't look that bad the float bowl was dirty but the needles were clean and could see the holes on the jets so idk whats next carb rebuild kit if after I go threw it again and nothing that's last resort
There are tiny passages that are difficult to find. Looking spotlessly clean doesn't mean they're anywhere near really clean. I've worked on my own carbs all my life, but when it came to getting my 250 carbs restored, I let Ducatiman here on the board do it. It was a different motorcycle after he did his job on them.
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Old October 13th, 2021, 12:07 PM   #26
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There are tiny passages that are difficult to find. Looking spotlessly clean doesn't mean they're anywhere near really clean. I've worked on my own carbs all my life, but when it came to getting my 250 carbs restored, I let Ducatiman here on the board do it. It was a different motorcycle after he did his job on them.
Ok 10-4 I got my brother otw with new plugs gonna try the new plugs then go threw the carbs yet again this time I'll look up the passage ways and try to clean it again
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Old October 13th, 2021, 12:44 PM   #27
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You've done maybe first 5% of carb-cleaning job. Sitting for 10-15yrs definitely means full tear-down and restoration job. Disassemble to every last bolt, nut, individual component.



Scrub out all passages where petrol flows starting from petcock and all hosts before carbs with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. Carb spray cleaners no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Scrub hidden secret passages in carb-body with brushes.
https://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/s...-passages.html

Poke out lateral bleed holes in emulsion-tube and pilot-jet. Just because you can see light, doesn't mean it's enough light. Bleed holes can still be constricted. You'll find poking out bleed holes with matching size soft copper wire will push out little dried petrol plastic plugs like little grains of sand. They can be translucent and transmit light, but completely block petrol flow. Also work from carb venturi side. Bend copper wire 90-degrees 5mm from end and use it to poke out bleed-holes in venturi. Those gets clogged too.



Then ultrasonic soak everything (except rubbers). Micro soda-blast everything. Reassemble with new rubbers. Sync carbs. That might be enough to restore to factory-fresh clean condition.

Otherwise, start from beginning and do it all over since you may have missed something. Many, many expert mechanics with decades of experience have had to remove their carbs 4-5x for ever deeper cleaning before their bike ran like new showroom condition. You might as well do full restoration to save yourself pulling 3-4 times more!

I've been working on bikes & cars for over 40-yrs. Can cut metal and build/weld frames from scratch; even casted my own engine-block once. And it still took me over 40-hrs to clean set of 250 carbs. Now I just send them to ducatiman to do for me because he's got all equipment needed and has tonnes more experience than anyone! Just do search on here for "clean carbs ducatiman".
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Old October 13th, 2021, 12:49 PM   #28
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You've done 1st 10% of carb-cleaning job. Sitting for 10-15yrs definitely means full tear-down and restoration job. Disassemble to every last bolt, nut, individual component.

Scrub out all hidden secret passages with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner (carb spray cleaners no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds).
https://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/s...-passages.html

Poke out lateral bleed holes in emulsion-tube and pilot-jet. Just because you can see light, doesn't mean it's enough light. Bleed holes can still be constricted. You'll find poking out bleed holes with matching size soft copper wire will push out little dried petrol plastic plugs like little grains of sand. They can be translucent and transmit light, but completely block petrol flow. Also work from carb venturi side. Bend copper wire 5mm from end and use it to poke out bleed-holes in venturi. Those gets clogged too.

Then ultrasonic soak everything (except rubbers). Micro soda-blast everything. Reassemble with new rubbers. Sync carbs. That might be enough to restore to factory-fresh clean condition.

Otherwise, start from beginning and do it all over since you may have missed something. Many, many expert mechanics with decades of experience have had to remove their carbs 4-5x for ever deeper cleaning before their bike ran like new showroom condition. You might as well do full restoration to save yourself pulling 3-4 times more!
Yup after watching a guys 30 min video I missed the air idle ones that are covered from the factory I'm going to fully tear it apart because I believe it has to be a carb prob it would still start with fouled plugs
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Old October 13th, 2021, 02:01 PM   #29
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Found a few things I missed and cleaned but I'm setting it a side and gonna start fresh in the AM yea my dad used to own a custom Harley shop and these 250 carbs are a handful compared to Harley and car carbs was trying to rush the first time pulling it apart this time I'm taking my time and cleaning everything up as well as I can after tomorrow I might be giving him a call but I believe after finding that hidden jet that the threw hole is completely clogged up I believe I've found the main problem
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Old October 13th, 2021, 02:54 PM   #30
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There is supposed to be a hole in the end of the pilot jet correct because there is no light and tried poking threw will no luck set it back in carb cleaner fluid and gonna let it sit overnight and try again
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Old October 13th, 2021, 03:13 PM   #31
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Having a problem getting the hole at the end of the pilot jet open ideas?? It's setting in carb cleaner until the morning got aggravated after spraying a little carb cleaner in my eye on accident so gonna make dinner and let it sit for now
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Old October 13th, 2021, 04:06 PM   #32
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acetone
ATF
PEA fuel-system cleaner
- Red Line SI-1
- Techron Concentrate Plus
- Gumout All-in-One
- 3M Max Strength Fuel System Cleaner #08814
- Royal Purple Max Atomizer 18000

Also don't forget choke jet. Not removable, but should still be cleared with some wire. One case recently, guy actually had to drill it out with micro-bit!
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Old October 14th, 2021, 01:30 PM   #33
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Cool

AND SHE RUNS finally idles at 1500 cleanly gonna drain the oil its milky again from cleaning the gunk out and then gonna throw the fairings back on it and see what she will do thanks everyone for all yalls help
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Old October 14th, 2021, 01:47 PM   #34
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Keep a sharp eye on the oil level to be sure coolant isn't getting in.
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Old October 14th, 2021, 02:35 PM   #35
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I will do that not driving it anywhere just let it run for a few mins and Iooked at the oil glass and it was a little milky hoping its just from the previous oil being milky gonna change it again in the morning and see what happens a buddy that's had quite a few bikes said drain a quart out add a quart off diesel fuel to the oil and let it run for just a min then drain it and that will help clean it up yalls thoughts on that?
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Old October 14th, 2021, 02:51 PM   #36
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Not sure diluting oil with diesel fuel would do anything about water; it's not polar solvent either. I would send in that oil you drained to Blackstone Labs for used-oil analysis. Only about $25 and well worth it to see exactly what's in there. Here's another $600 vehicle that overheated and condition was caught early enough to prevent permanent damage: https://jalopnik.com/how-a-28-labora...ine-1795355769

Real way to remove water is to let it warm up completely to operating temperatures. Engines are typically designed to run at oil-temperatures of +220F; above boiling point of water. This ensures that all water has boiled out of oil. That's why constant short trips in city aren't good for engines, it never warms up enough to get rid of water in crankcase.

After getting up to operating temps, shut it down, let cool off halfway or more, then change oil again. This next oil change should be free of milkshake. Otherwise, you may have BHG, or cracked head/block somewhere. Compression-test should be able to confirm or deny that.
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Old October 14th, 2021, 04:17 PM   #37
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Thanks for the tips Danno much appreciated will do that in the morning
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Old October 14th, 2021, 04:50 PM   #38
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this was a good story to read
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Old October 14th, 2021, 06:42 PM   #39
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this was a good story to read
Thanks I may put a video up tomorrow if y'all would like to see it after I get the oil changed in the am and put the side fairings back on y'all lmk
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Old October 14th, 2021, 06:57 PM   #40
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Join Date: Aug 2020

Motorcycle(s): Ninja EX250

Posts: 105
Blog Entries: 2
i want to see
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RIDE IT UNTIL THE WHEELS FALL OFF, THEN BUY NEW WHEELS
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