February 14th, 2012, 12:57 PM | #1 |
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Valve Shim help
Took the engine apart last night to do a valve clearance check.
buddy of mine that was helping had feelers that only measured in inches, so i've converted to MM in excel, but I'm now second guessing the numbers. it seems to me that they are all tight, but the new shim sizes I'm coming up with are all smaller than the current ones, which should make things even tighter if i'm understanding this correctly. That's a screen shot of my current findings. Data for Intake 3 is missing because it was the only one that was still within spec, so I'm not replacing that one. |
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February 14th, 2012, 01:20 PM | #2 |
wat
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a smaller shim means the bucket sits down lower so when the cam lobe hits it, there is more clearance.
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February 14th, 2012, 01:22 PM | #3 |
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I was thinking that too (after I posted the thread of course). do those numbers seem ok then?
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February 14th, 2012, 01:27 PM | #4 |
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and if they are good, then the recommended shims that are the closest would be the 2.775 for the intake and 2.70 for exhaust 1-3 and 2.675 for exhaust 4?
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February 14th, 2012, 02:07 PM | #5 |
wat
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if you have a valve shim kit just put the new shims in and remeasure. it takes 2 minutes.
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February 14th, 2012, 02:17 PM | #6 |
wat
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quickly:
current shim size: 2.794 current clearance: 0.152 total shim+clearance: 2.946. from that total, we know what we want our clearance to be, 0.178 (according to you) so to get the new shim size, subtract our desired clearance from the total, new shim size: 2.768 (2.946 - 0.178) you might want to use more accurate measuring tools. and also not use inches.
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February 14th, 2012, 02:39 PM | #7 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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February 14th, 2012, 02:42 PM | #8 |
wat
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thats all fine. just make sure you always double check the clearance with feeler gauges with the new shims in.
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February 14th, 2012, 02:47 PM | #9 |
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was planning to remeasure with the new shims. had to order a new gasket for the valve cover anyway, so it'll be a couple days before I get these shims replaced.
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February 14th, 2012, 02:59 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
i don't know how you guys do this with the engine in the bike, so much easier on the bench |
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February 14th, 2012, 11:08 PM | #12 |
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@headshrink put together a pretty good spreadsheet awhile back as well:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73240
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February 15th, 2012, 09:54 AM | #13 |
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February 15th, 2012, 11:32 AM | #14 |
wat
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something funny? does it take you longer than 2 minutes to measure 8 valves? if they are all correct it should take about 30 seconds per side
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February 16th, 2012, 11:39 PM | #15 |
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It usually takes me a day, but that's another story... lol.
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February 16th, 2012, 11:43 PM | #16 |
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Unless your valve cover gasket is beat up, there is no need to replace it. Same thing goes for the spark-plug gaskets. The crush gaskets on the header though, that could go either way, but I do like keep an extra set of those around, and probably would go ahead with that one.
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February 17th, 2012, 02:42 AM | #18 |
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No - just for all the redos, and unforseen things. I'm getting better at it each time - a day was a bit of an exageration. 1/2 a day may be more accurate.
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February 17th, 2012, 08:56 AM | #19 | |
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Quote:
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February 17th, 2012, 09:52 AM | #20 |
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Good idea then. What year is your bike?
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February 17th, 2012, 11:46 AM | #21 |
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2010. called the dealer today to see if the gaskets were in, all were there except one plug gasket that is on backorder with no ETA. after calling all over hells half acre looking for one in stock, finally found one in Ottawa. The wife is going there on holidays next week so i put on on hold and she's going to pick it up.
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February 17th, 2012, 02:11 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
The first time I did my valves, it took me a few tries before I had the gasket seated properly. I would think I had it on right, bolt down the cover, which would exaggerate the problem where it wasn't properly seated, etc. My only thought was double-checking that it was installed properly last time, but that is assuming there was a last time. And if your plug gaskets have hardened already, I'm inclined to think you're probably right about needing a replacement. Just thinking aloud....
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February 17th, 2012, 06:24 PM | #24 |
wat
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ugh i went through the same thing 3 times the first time i did the valves. so frustrating!!!
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February 17th, 2012, 06:54 PM | #25 |
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I also miss-read the SM and put blue locktite on the cam cap screws (don't do that!). I was out of commision for a week while I waited for the replacement screws, and I was VERY lucky I was able to get the stripped screw out with an impact hammer. That is a mistake you only make once. So a bunch of stupid stuff like this is why I take a long time. Even when everything goes well, it takes me a while to read, read-read, confuse, re-read, post, etc. to make sure I have the timming correct (hoping next time goes quickly).
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February 17th, 2012, 07:14 PM | #26 |
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did either of you guys use any silicone in addition to the gasket on reassembly? when we took the old gasket off there was some silicone on the side closest to the cam gears.
I know it's only a 2010, but i've put ~32000km on it since purchasing it in Aug 2010 so that's quite a bit of mileage for such a new bike. Plus, with the gaskets being cheap, I figure it's worth replacing them. I'll just make sure to look for them sooner the next time. |
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February 18th, 2012, 12:22 AM | #27 |
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I didn't, but I also didn't pull the gasket all the way off either. Unless you are replacing the gasket, I don't think there is a need to pull it off.
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