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Old March 10th, 2010, 05:04 PM   #1
RedNinja09
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After LONG winter sitting, bike wont start

Hey all,

Ok, so today was warm and nice and I tried to start the bike and to my dismay it did NOT start. No surprise, I didnt think I would get away with no problems after the LONG winter. I didnt drain the carbs because I could NOT figure out how to do it for the life of me. So, I just prayed it would just start in the spring. Well, it didnt.

Does anyone have any SIMPLE instructions on how to drain them ? I am not a mechanic or familiar with anything mechanical on this thing. Any advice from past problems you have experienced ??

Thanks !

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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:09 PM   #2
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When you try to start the bike, what exactly happens? What are the symptoms?
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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:20 PM   #3
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Well it just cranks, the lights come on it just hitches up and does NOT start. I guess I need to drain the carbs. But I dont know how to do that. I am working on locating someone who can help. The battery seems good, all the lights come on...
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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:37 PM   #4
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next winter, just try to run the bike for 5~10 minutes maybe once a week or so. that seems to help move the fuel through the carbs, and top up the charge on the battery i think.

at least i have the impression that it helps when the bike isn't in use for 1month or longer...

ill try and find pictures, to post and show how to drain the carbs, but i have a feeling that KKM prolly has the pictures ready to post if he sees this thread
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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:41 PM   #5
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I've had similar issues the last couple years. Winterized with Sta-Bil, and didn't drain the float bowls.

It took maybe 5 minutes of intermittent cranking for the engine to finally catch - make sure you have the choke all the way on, and DO NOT blip the throttle until it starts to warm up... blipping the throttle will kill the engine. And it probably goes without saying, but don't hold the starter button for longer than a couple seconds at a time.

I presume it's just a function of getting the gas back into the parts where it's supposed to be, because the bike runs just fine once she starts up and gets warm. The first cycle is going to need a longer than normal warmup - I don't know if that's the Sta-Bil or the prolonged rest. Once I get a half gallon of gas out of the tank, I'll add a dose of Techron and she'll be fine for the year.

EDIT: I am unshimmed and it's ~45* F, so it's normally a difficult start. The first start of the year is always even more of a bear, though.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 08:54 PM   #6
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Try for 5 minutes ? Really ? I didnt try for that long. I don’t think I had the choke all the way up either. I will have to try that too. Did you end up draining the carbs at all ? Did it help ? I will have to try again this weekend and try a more prolonged trying to start it period. We shall see… thanks for the advice though. This my 1st Ninja .
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Old March 10th, 2010, 09:07 PM   #7
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_bike...get_it_started
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Old March 10th, 2010, 09:22 PM   #8
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5 minutes may have been an overstatement, but it definitely took a long time. Did last year, too. If you've got the stock jetting and it's cold (< 55*F for my bike), make sure the choke it fully open - it won't start well otherwise.

After reading Kelly's post I'm starting to think that it may have been a good idea to drain the float bowls - but I didn't do that.

Presuming you put some stabilizer in the tank before you put it away for the winter, you should be able to start her up again relatively simply. If you didn't... you probably want to think about draining the tank into your cage and filling up with some fresh gas.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 09:26 PM   #9
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Well, I did put Stabil in back in November, I did do that. I will have to try and crank it a bunch of times this weekend to see if she starts up. Maybe I just didnt try long enough. I dont know. I live near Chicago and it got COLD. Today was 60F for the 1st time in about 5 months so I though I would try to start it up. I am trying to get a hold of a friend of mine to help show me how to drain the bowls. I hope that helps....
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Old March 10th, 2010, 09:40 PM   #10
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Draining_the_carbs
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Old March 10th, 2010, 09:45 PM   #11
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You know I have looked at this before. It is all Greek to me. I am not very mechanical. Or at all actually. I dont know, I really need someone to show me how to do it once and I should get it. At least I hope so...
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Old March 11th, 2010, 07:41 AM   #12
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Do you have a pregen? That write-up is actually well illustrated and shows you exactly where the screws are for the float bowls. I'm not sure how the new gens are organized, but you generally don't have to remove any plastics to get at them. Not difficult at all.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 08:36 AM   #13
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I'd just throw that bike out and get a new one. That's just me though.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 08:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayanlam View Post
next winter, just try to run the bike for 5~10 minutes maybe once a week or so. that seems to help move the fuel through the carbs, and top up the charge on the battery i think.

at least i have the impression that it helps when the bike isn't in use for 1month or longer...

i
Not good advice.
If you put Stabil in the gas tank, you then run the engine 5 min to distribute it through the fuel system, turn it off, leave it off 'till spring. Do not start it and run it for 5-10 min once a week. You fully charge the battery on a 2 amp charger, charge it maybe once a month or leave it on a Battery Tender (not the same as a charger), and don't restart it 'till you're ready to go in the spring. You are going to discharge the battery more in starting the bike than you recharge it sitting at idle for 5 min.The gas tank should be full when you store the bike to make the air space in the tank as small as possible to eliminate condensation and moisture or water from getting into the fuel.

Draining the carbs is unnecessary with Stabil in the fuel and it's worse to have seals and rubber parts drying out and having moisture condense in the carbs.
Change the oil before you lay it up, not leaving dirty acid oil sitting in the engine over the winter.

Put the choke to max, run the starter in short bursts of 5-10 sec at most rather than leaving it on, and it may take a few minutes, but the bike should start. Draining the bowls will not accomplish anything and the bike will still take a while to start as the bowls have to fill up again.

Ride around and use up the gas with the Stabil in it, no need to empty and drain the tank. After that, every 4-6 tankfills, use Seafoam or Berryman's B12 in the recommended dose (1 oz/gal fuel) in the gas to keep the carbs clean. Don't screw with something if it ain't broke - you will make it worse. These bikes are very reliable and most problems come from people messing with them, thinking they are doing something good, but most times is totally unnecessary.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 09:45 AM   #15
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Try for 5 minutes ? Really ? I didnt try for that long. I don’t think I had the choke all the way up either. I will have to try that too.
LOL okay I missed this post. Start with this, making sure that you don't crank for longer than 5 seconds each time. And every 3 or 4 tries give it a break for like a minute or so to avoid flooding the engine. Make sure you got the choke up all the way. The engine should at least begin to catch. These bikes aren't very particular on gas quality and will usually start without you having to resort to draining the tank and all that stuff.

Oh and if you manage to drain the battery before you get the bike started....give it a break for the day, recharge the battery, and try again the next day.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 10:13 AM   #16
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I winterized mine by putting Sta-bil in the tank (proper quantity for a full tank), then completely filled the tank. Once per month I started the bike for 10-15 min, and even in the coldest part of winter, there were no problems. I did not drain the carbs, use a battery tender, or put the engine under load.

It started this spring without any trouble and it's running perfectly right now. Keeping the fluids periodically running through the system and charging the battery at idle worked well for this bike, and the last bike.

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Old March 11th, 2010, 10:25 AM   #17
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I could be dead wrong, but when I first pulled my bike out, I had to charge the battery - even though it sounded like it had enough juice to start it simply didn't have enough power. It might be worth charging it, or at least checking it with a charger (I know mine at home has a meter on it to show how much is in the battery)
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Old March 11th, 2010, 12:11 PM   #18
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I winterized mine by putting Sta-bil in the tank (proper quantity for a full tank), then completely filled the tank. Once per month I started the bike for 10-15 min, and even in the coldest part of winter, there were no problems. I did not drain the carbs, use a battery tender, or put the engine under load.
To be fair...our winter wasn't that cold this year.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 12:39 PM   #19
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To be fair...our winter wasn't that cold this year.
On average, it's 1-2 deg difference between Toronto and Barrie, so I got a *slightly* colder winter
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Old March 11th, 2010, 01:28 PM   #20
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You probably just have a discharged battery. Before you start messing with the carbs, like I said before, charge up the battery on a charger, not a tender, or jump it from a NON-RUNNING car battery and I bet it will start. Put some Seafoam or Berryman's in the tank to clean out the junk that probably formed in the carbs because you probably didn't put any stabilizer or anything in the fuel.
And just for the helluvit, check you're exhaust pipe and airbox/air filter to make sure that no critters (mice/spiders/bugs) took up residence in there over the wintertime and clogged it up.

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Old March 11th, 2010, 06:05 PM   #21
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Welll, I did put Stabil in it, and I havent started it up since December. I am going to try again with the choke all the way up. So, now I hear there is no need to drain the carbs ? I get such conflicting advice. I will try again this weekend and see if she fires up. I hope so.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 07:37 PM   #22
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Check to make sure the kill switch is set to "run".
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Old March 11th, 2010, 07:40 PM   #23
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Oh it's on run brother...
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Old March 11th, 2010, 08:54 PM   #24
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Welll, I did put Stabil in it, and I havent started it up since December. I am going to try again with the choke all the way up. So, now I hear there is no need to drain the carbs ? I get such conflicting advice. I will try again this weekend and see if she fires up. I hope so.
Well ur getting conflicting advice because everyone is assuming you're at differing levels of progression with this problem.

You definitely need to try cranking the bike more with the choke all the way up, making sure that your battery is in check, of course. IF this doesn't work at all (after sufficient time trying to crank the bike, with the choke on, and with everything else in order) then you'd escalate to draining the carbs, etc.

Start with the small, easy solutions first, gradually progressing up to the more complicated and insane solutions as required.
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Old March 13th, 2010, 10:48 AM   #25
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Mine did the same thing, i put stabil in it and filled it up completely before storage. Then when i plugged the battery in it a couple days ago i cranked it in short periods until it looked like the battery was getting drained (the lights started to dim more etc). After this i gave up and left it in the garage because i didn't have time to mess with it. I tried a couple days later on a warmer day that was about 8ºC and to my surprise it started up first try.

Moral of the story: before you go and try fixing complicated stuff, just try waiting for a slightly warmer day. Rule out the simple problems before you make it worse by trying to fix something that isn't broke.

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Old March 14th, 2010, 12:08 PM   #26
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Ok, well I tried to start her again today with no luck. She starts and then dies right away. I almost thought she was going to start up and run. I guess I will have to try and drain the carbs and see if that makes some kind of difference. Bummer.
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Old March 14th, 2010, 12:16 PM   #27
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are you using the choke when starting the bike?
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Old March 14th, 2010, 12:51 PM   #28
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Why do you think you have to drain the carbs? What are you trying to accomplish with that?
When you put Stabil in the fuel, did you run the bike for at least 5 min to get that fuel from the tank down into the carbs? If you did that, there's probably nothing wrong with the carbs. If you didn't let it run for that length of time, that's a different story, but sitting only for 3 months, it should still start.
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Old March 14th, 2010, 02:16 PM   #29
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I dont know, everyone keeps telling me to drain the carbs, drain the carbs. I have no idea what that accomplishes. I did put Stabil in it and it ran for a LONG time back in November. It was throughly circulated throughtout the bike. But, it just wont start. Today it almost sounded like it was going to start but then it died. It did that several times. I dont know.
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Old March 14th, 2010, 03:25 PM   #30
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Just 2 more questions, then a really dumb one just to make sure.
You put the Stabil in at the recommended dose, right? Not the whole bottle? Too high a dose of that stuff, Seafoam, Berryman's, whatever can make the bike real hard to start and run.
Your battery is fully charged, right? After you attempted multiple times to start the bike, but to no avail, did you ever recharge the battery again? If the battery is not up to snuff, you may not be getting good spark. Lights on are not an indication of a fully charged battery.
Lastly, the fuel petcock is set to ON, right? Not OFF. You didn't put it on OFF last year and forgot, right? And you have gas in the tank too, I suppose.
Would you please recharge your battery, or jump it like I said way before from a NON-RUNNING car. It should start.
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Old March 14th, 2010, 04:19 PM   #31
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keep trying mine took a while to start several days ago, it almost started and then died about 7 times or more. It also took a LONG time (15 mins or so) for it to clear up enough to no die when I bleeped to wide open throttle. Keep at it and it will start no need for carb drainage. I promise you.

I didn't even use STABIL and it sat for about 4 months.
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Old March 17th, 2010, 01:58 PM   #32
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My bike has been away since November. I took it out once in december for 10 minutes it ran like crap. I think i just didn't let it warm up enough. 2 weeks ago fired it up and reved the motor a bunch of times after letting it warm up, zero hesitation, ran butter smooth. Yesterday was my first real ride, no problems starting.

That one ride in the winter and the time i reved it in my garage it was tough though. No battery tender, tank not topped off. But like several other guys it took MANY attempts to get it going. Choke on hitting the starter, the cylinders would fire a few times than die. Every time i hit the starter it would last longer and longer until finally it could hold its own. Both those two times it was 30 degrees or bellow. Today it was 60.
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Old March 17th, 2010, 09:43 PM   #33
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Well, believe it or not, after a good solid week of warmth (60F and up) she FINALLY started ! I think it just needed to warm up a bit more. It would crank and die and finally Monday it started. I warmed her up and went on a good 15minute ride. It was great. I sure missed her while she was gone.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 06:44 AM   #34
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Gee, it even started without draining the carbs. Imagine that.
Just to repeat this again - when you lay the bike up for the winter. put some Stabil or Seafoam in with a full tank of gas, run it 5-10 min to get it through the whole system, get a battery tender or charge it up once a month, do not start it 'till spring. Do NOT drain the carbs, nothing will happen to them, you risk drying out gaskets and seals and will do more damage that way. Restart it in the spring (these bikes need the choke when cold), use up the gas in the tank and put some Seafoam or Berryman's B12 Chemtool in the gas every 3-4 tankfuls and you'll never have a problem.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 08:41 AM   #35
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Glad you got it running again without wasting time and effort.


Spent 20min yesterday cranking my apartment-mate's scooter to get it going going because she didn't stabilize her fuel last October. Ran like crap (due to old/fouled gas), but did eventually start & level out. Patience is key.

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These bikes are very reliable and most problems come from people messing with them, thinking they are doing something good, but most times is totally unnecessary.
+1, been there, done that.

Enjoy the summer! Several months where you shouldn't have to worry whether or not it'll start
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Old January 15th, 2018, 03:58 PM   #36
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HELP!

I have a 99 yamaha r6. This is my first winter i went to start it today after a while of not starting it and all the electric works it turn on but when i press the ignition the pistons spin really slow and it doesent start. I did not do anything in prep for winter. Does anyone know how to fix it?
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Old January 15th, 2018, 04:03 PM   #37
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I imagine your battery either needs charging or replacing if charging doesn't work.

Welcome to the board Jonathan, it's good to meet you.
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Old January 15th, 2018, 04:19 PM   #38
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The key turns and all the lights and the odometer lights up is it really the battery?
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Old January 15th, 2018, 04:26 PM   #39
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The key turns and all the lights and the odometer lights up is it really the battery?
...yes.

Try charging it. If that doesn't work, try replacing it. Use a slow charger (less than 1 amp)
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Old January 15th, 2018, 04:33 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonieibarra View Post
I have a 99 yamaha r6. This is my first winter i went to start it today after a while of not starting it and all the electric works it turn on but when i press the ignition the pistons spin really slow and it doesent start. I did not do anything in prep for winter. Does anyone know how to fix it?
That may mean a bit of work to get it going.

If you didn't add stabilizer and run it enough to get it into the carbs, or drain the floatbowls (best), then you probably have a tank of bad gas.

Left sitting long enough in the carbs, the gas will evaporate and leave a film of "varnish" in the bowl and jets. If it's bad enough you'll need to remove and completely disassemble the carbs to remove it.

Start by charging the battery and draining the floatbowls. The gas that sits there loses volatility and goes bad the quickest - making starting difficult.

Draining the tank completely and filling with fresh gas and stabilizer is a good next step. A full tank of stabilized ethanol-free gas will last a long time, but draining the floatbowls while it's in storage is always the best imo.
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