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Old August 8th, 2021, 06:01 AM   #1
frostyflammable
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2006 250R, cranks but no start

I am trying to get a 2006 250R back on the road. I bought it for really cheap but it has been sitting for forever and the previous owner inherited it so he has no idea why... but for $100 I am not complaining. I have done a lot of small engine repair and maintenance but this is a first "real engine" if you will.

My issue is that the engine is free, it will crank using the switch but will not start. I have verified spark and I get strong spark on both coils. Cleaned the crud out of the carb and I am getting fuel inside the cylinder, even with some starting fluid it won't even cough. My next course of action was to test the compression or do a leakdown test however my compression tester does not have an adapter that small. I think I need a 10mm adapter if my research is correct. Before I take the head off I wanted to do a compression test.

My question is, is there something obvious I am missing to get it to run?
Second is there a good compression tester adapter people around here use? I am worried if I use an adapter it will be suck unscrewing it from the spark plug hole. I am used to OHV engines so this was never a problem, but OHC engines have the spark plug deep inside there.

I did get another 2002 250R and quite a few parts from a third bike for the price so I have parts I can use (hopefully good parts) to fix this bike. Just wanted to see what everyone else though good next step is.

Thanks,
Dan.
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Old August 8th, 2021, 07:58 AM   #2
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You're on the right track. It might be worth checking the cam timing. The compression test will tell you if the valves are closing completely.
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Old August 9th, 2021, 06:49 AM   #3
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I agree with Jim... Your on the right track.... those carbs are not that easy to clean but if you cleaned them WELL... they should work...
if your getting good spark your half way there ! now compression !
the Ninja I have has shims for adjustment of the valves ( that's a bad thing in my view) but on the good side you can go 7500 miles between valve adjustments ! and that is a long way !
I made a extension for my compression gauge by taking a piece of 3/8" copper tubing and putting a valve core stem rubber on the end... I had to glue the rubber in place so I could push hard on it to seal up on the spark plug hole
the compression gauge pressed against the copper tube... which I flared using a flaring tool to make that easier... my compression tester already had a rubber tip on it... so I just had to manage keeping the seal between both rubbers and then crank it over....
....
don't forget to open the throttle when doing the compression test... (I always forget that)...
....
if it won't start with quick start then it at least should POP and fart...
if that's the case the valve timing might be off....
quick start can blow head gaskets I know first hand experience on that.
but you do what ya gott'a do ! if a little quick start ain't getting it use more !
you SHOULD get at least some reaction from the engine with the quick start
if you get nothing then I suspect compression or the lack thereof !
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Old August 9th, 2021, 09:53 AM   #4
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I have an adapter on the way that should be here Friday that is for my compression tester and 10mm plug, or so it says we will see I guess.

Yeah, even with some ether not really cranking, once in a while is sounds like a backfire but nothing more. Hopefully Friday I will know more about the compression on this engine. I am also thinking it may not be bad to do a small rebuild if I am going to have it apart, maybe some new rings and gaskets, lapping the valves etc. I am just hoping none of the valves are stuck, my understanding is this is an interference engine.

Thanks.
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Old August 9th, 2021, 10:14 AM   #5
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Hummm sounds major to me .... I think while you wait for the compression tester extension , I'ed pull off the valve cover and crank it over ans see if the valves are all moving like they should be.... the cam chain may be laying in the bottom of the sump ya never know...
you can check to see if the valve timing is spot on too by pulling that cover...
I got the online manual and it goes into good detail on it.
....
I don't know but I suspect it may be easier to pull the entire engine than to just pull the valve cover ! they are so tight fit in the frame after all !
maybe Triple Jim will voice his opinion on that, he has much more experience than I do on these monsters....

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Old August 9th, 2021, 05:55 PM   #6
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Decided to take your advice and pull the valve cover today. Manually moved the cam via the access hole using the 14mm bolt and I was able to confirm that all the valves at least move with the camshaft.

Lined up the crank on the 2T mark for the cylinder 2 (right hand if my reading was correct) is on TDC and both the Intake and Exhaust timings were dead on and the chain did not have too much slack. It all seemed correct to me. Looked at the lobes on the camshaft and they seem in the correct position when timing marks are lined up.

Took out the spark plugs and visually looked at the pistons and they do move up and down.

Admittedly before the spark plug was removed, while I moved the crank with my 14mm, it did not seem it took a decent amount of force to move it, it was heavier with the spark plugs in to move the crank I would just expected it to be more, but with my lack of experience with 250r engine who knows.

I am hoping the adapter that is coming in on Friday fits so I can get a good reading on the compression... if even that passes I am not sure where to go from there, may be time to start taking apart the engine for exploratory surgery.

Maybe the plugs are firing at the wrong time? Just a thought, I have the service manual so I am reading it trying to get more familiar with this engine. I would think that if I had timing, spark and compression it should cough with some either, but I occasionally get a afterfire or backfire.

I do appreciate all the help so far, I really want this bike to purr once again . I am even thinking of doing a refresh on the engine (new seals, gapping the valves etc) if I can at least get it to cough.

Thanks!
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Old August 9th, 2021, 07:13 PM   #7
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perhaps the spark plug leads are reversed??? check that #2 coil is connected to #2 spark plug....
How does the wiring look for the computer box ? is it still in good shape or has someone been playing in it ???? I don't know if the firing order can be messed up there but if it's been tampered with it is a good place to start
.....it's only a 250cc and it's a twin so you have a max of 125cc per cylinder
so that's not alot to hold back with a wrench on the crank but there should be some....
you said you have good spark... how do you know that ? did you pull the plugs lay them on the head and see the spark ? or did you just feel the spark ?
I'm betting the latter ! (GRIN) if it gives you a good sharp bite it's good to go right ? .... well, in this case you don't know if the spark is at the right time or not..... or if the sparkplugs are even firing .... I had to replace both sparkplugs on my bike first thing as I don't think they had ever been changed !( it started much easier too!)
their a bitch to get to so people don't bother as long as they work !
they may have quit working and that's why it set !!!
.......easy cure !!!
I am hoping for you, that it's simply the plugs !
LOL....
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Old August 9th, 2021, 07:33 PM   #8
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My checking of the spark plugs wasn’t the most scientific one. I took both spark plugs out, connected them back to the wires and grounded the plug to the head, then cranked the bike and saw both plugs has spark. It was purely a visual test.

The wiring by the CDI box is looks original, no tampering with it. I’ll check the coils again but with the wiring length off the main harness not sure I could have reversed it but I’ll def double check that again tomorrow. I’ll read up in the manual if I can test the pickup somehow to make sure that is telling it when to fire correctly in the cycle process.

I did replace the spark plugs with brand new NGK CR8HSA gapped to 0.6-0.7mm before even starting the troubleshooting.

Appreciate the suggestions coming I’ll follow as soon as I can test if the coils are hooked up to their correct side.

Thanks.
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Old August 10th, 2021, 09:47 AM   #9
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Old August 12th, 2021, 04:09 PM   #10
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An update... I could not really find a compression tester adapter so I bought another compression tester that was made for small engines and it had the 10mm adapter included. Ran the test and here are the results:

Test #1, all as is:
Cylinder 1 (left side as viewed from riding position) - ~70 psi
Cylinder 2 (right side as viewed from riding position) - 0 psi... did not even try to move the needle.

Test #2, used my other compression tester gage just to be sure, same results.

Test #3, squirted a tad bit of oil through the spark plug hole.
Cylinder 1 - 160 psi now.
Cylinder 2 - still sitting at 0, not even moving the needle.

If my thinking is right, at least on Cylinder 1, it has bad rings. Cylinder two could have so many things wrong with it I will not know until I take the engine off the bike and start taking it apart to get a visual.

My thinking is if I have to take it all apart (and as long as there is no scarring on the cylinder walls or any other fatal damage), is there a rebuild kit I can get for these engines? Something that has new rings, crank bearing and all those goodies?

Thanks.
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Old August 12th, 2021, 04:43 PM   #11
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It's probably worth checking valve clearance to know what that might be contributing to the problem.
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Old August 12th, 2021, 04:54 PM   #12
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OP- total mileage on this '06? Agree with Triple Jim on a valve/cam looksee.
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Old August 12th, 2021, 07:14 PM   #13
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a word of caution on compression testers... I have seen several through the years that didn't work straight out of the box....
....
Definitely check valve clearance ! zero is a good indicator that a valve is open
(or you got a hole in a piston !)
....
back in the day I used to just put my thumb ofer the spark plug hole hold the throttle open and give it a kick... if it pops your thumb off the spark plug hole your good to go.... but you can't get your hand down into the spark plug hole on that Ninja !
You might be able to remove the valve shims on both the intake and exhaust side of No#2 to see if the compression readings come up... but what ever you do do NOT mix up those shims ! keep them separated and marked where they come from....
..... right now I am thinking valve adjustment.... but WHY is it off that far
did the valve seat go away....
I think it would be a real good idea to just pull the head.
....
I do not know of any KIT for rebuilding the 250 Ninja... but I have been out of it for a good 15 to 20 years now and haven't been keeping up on stuff.
....I think your better off pulling the head than pulling the engine, but the choice is yours if you had it out where you can actually work on it it would be ever so much nicer !
....
I do not know if you can take the head off with the engine in the frame or not.... the manual should say. but I would at least look-see
.....
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Old August 13th, 2021, 05:29 AM   #14
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I will def check the valve clearance see if it is within spec.

The ODO shows 10200 miles.

I do not have the bike close at the moment, but I could have sworn I saw screw/locknut adjustment on these valves but I will take another look.

I will try the easy stuff first, making sure the valve clearance is good. Then slowly start exploratory surgery.

Thanks!
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Old August 13th, 2021, 05:49 AM   #15
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Correct, screw & locknut. Perhaps someone attempted and set them incorrectly (failing to rotate crank?)

I'd pull spark plugs, rotate crank while looking closely at valve actuation. Check headbolts for loose/broken as well. Ya never know,

Best o' luck.
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Old August 13th, 2021, 06:15 AM   #16
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You're on the right track. It might be worth checking the cam timing. The compression test will tell you if the valves are closing completely.
^ This
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Old August 13th, 2021, 06:42 AM   #17
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Ah HA ! learn something new every day !!!! so the older Ninjas do have adjustable valves... not like my 2012 version ! that's good to know !
( i've never had the valve cover off my ninja but the manual said it had shims...
it wouldn't be the first time a manual has been wrong.... I could hope!)
if nothing else........I wonder if I can swap them out ???
good info ! thank you !
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Old August 13th, 2021, 06:52 AM   #18
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if the valves are actuating properly, that still does not rule out a bent valve
I've seen a valve so slightly bent that the previous owner just adjusted the
valve lash adjuster to get the proper clearance and then couldn't understand why it wouldn't run !!!
....good idea on checking the head bolts ! because it could be a blown head gasket causing the lack of compression... but you can usually hear that or
have water problems in a bad way....but sense you've not had it running and the bike is new to you and you don't know anything about it's history ...
Keep after it ! You'll figure it out !
gas,compression and ignition all in the right order, and it will run !!!!!
....
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Old August 13th, 2021, 09:50 AM   #19
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"the manual said it had shims...
it wouldn't be the first time a manual has been wrong.... I could hope!)
if nothing else........I wonder if I can swap them out ???"

get a shim kit 7.48MM dia.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17473029321...AAAOSwGFNgdQpv
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Old August 13th, 2021, 01:46 PM   #20
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Thank You Ducattiman !!!!
I needed that link !
....
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Old August 14th, 2021, 07:55 PM   #21
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Ah HA ! learn something new every day !!!! so the older Ninjas do have adjustable valves... not like my 2012 version ! that's good to know !
( i've never had the valve cover off my ninja but the manual said it had shims...
it wouldn't be the first time a manual has been wrong.... I could hope!)
if nothing else........I wonder if I can swap them out ???
good info ! thank you !
Bob........
your manual's for 2008-2012 Ninja 250 is not wrong. Those have shim-under-buckets. The 1986-2007 bikes have screw-adjusters.
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Old August 14th, 2021, 07:57 PM   #22
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Blown headgaskets tend to still have compression due to small crack through gasket. Even bent and stuck valves tend to have some sealing due to cam action.

My bet's on hole in piston!
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Old August 14th, 2021, 10:02 PM   #23
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both very true Danno ! and a hole in the piston does also point better than stuck rings as they usually will have some compression....
it is not looking good..... pulling the engine just might be the easiest thing from the get-go !
I personally like to have an engine Out where I can see everything from any angle... roll it around on the cookie sheet and see everything, Big cooky sheets are hard to find, but picking one up from autozone is easy, they call them drip pans ! LOL worth their weight in gold !!!!
.... diagnosing engine problems is something I've always loved, but also something I have learned to be wary of... you never know what you may find inside a hurt engine... there are so many reasons an engine won't run ,or run right.... you can know all the signs and still miss it ! especially if your not doing it...
I've been into engines every sense I was 8 years old working on lawn mower engines with a rope pull start.... till now ...and I still don't know all the
signs ! some times their elusive, other times it's as blaintant as can be.
the hardest thing I've found to diagnose is a perfectly running engine that has an occasional miss..... by definition they are almost impossible to find
I suppose that is why they put the diagnostic things in cars years ago...
so the poor mechanic has a fighting chance to fix it right the first time ! LOL
.....
later !
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Old August 15th, 2021, 01:22 PM   #24
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So I finally had some time to start digging into this engine to see what is going on.
First, as suggested, I did check the valve clearance and it seems all of them are about 0.10mm.
Second, checked the timing again and I can confirm timing was set correctly.

Then I started taking things apart, and once I took the head I saw evidence of water, some rust here and there on the pistons and some rust on the surface of the valves. I did try and shine a light at the valves to see if I can see any amount coming through but I was not able to... not that is is conclusive proof none of them are bent but a quick looksie. Once I took the cylinder jugs out the evidence was there... the piston rings are collapsed, they still move on the piston itself but completely collapsed.

Upon visual inspection the jug does not have anything wrong that some honing should not be able to fix and even though it seems there was water in there I do not see major damage that would mark this engine useless.

So here is my plan:
1) Get new OEM rings
2) Clean up everything and hone the cylinder walls.
3) Take out valves one by one and clean / lap them to the head.
4) All new gaskets.
5) Verify all clearances per the manual.

This will take me some time to do as I only can do this on the weekends but I am excited to see if this engine will ever work again. I do have two more engines for parts if the pistons are too rusty but does look like its very salvageable.

Here is the progress so far of all parts taken off, if anyone likes to see this kind of stuff.

Thanks.
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Old August 16th, 2021, 02:38 PM   #25
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So I finally had some time to start digging into this engine to see what is going on.
First, as suggested, I did check the valve clearance and it seems all of them are about 0.10mm.
Second, checked the timing again and I can confirm timing was set correctly.

Then I started taking things apart, and once I took the head I saw evidence of water, some rust here and there on the pistons and some rust on the surface of the valves. I did try and shine a light at the valves to see if I can see any amount coming through but I was not able to... not that is is conclusive proof none of them are bent but a quick looksie. Once I took the cylinder jugs out the evidence was there... the piston rings are collapsed, they still move on the piston itself but completely collapsed.

Upon visual inspection the sleeves does not have anything wrong that some honing should not be able to fix and even though it seems there was water in there I do not see major damage that would mark this engine useless. I will have to check the bore (62mm if I remember correct) to make sure that is within spec as well. I see that I can get 0.5mm oversized piston rings if needed.

So here is my plan:
1) Get new OEM rings
2) Clean up everything and hone the cylinder walls.
3) Take out valves one by one and clean / lap them to the head.
4) All new gaskets.
5) Verify all clearances per the manual.

This will take me some time to do as I only can do this on the weekends but I am excited to see if this engine will ever work again. I do have two more engines for parts if the pistons are too rusty but does look like its very salvageable.

--Dan
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Old August 16th, 2021, 02:58 PM   #26
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If there's rust on the pistons it's from something else, since they're aluminum.

How did the rings collapse? I'd think they'd have to be broken to do that unless they got VERY hot.
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Old August 16th, 2021, 04:28 PM   #27
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Went out and checked the pistons and the valves again... on the pistons, once I started craping it looks like just carbon deposits not rust. On the valves my fingernail could not scrape off any deposits but I would guess it also has carbon deposits in there.

The only rust I can confirm is on the very top (maybe 2mm worth or so) on the cylinder liners some surface rust, other than that the lines have no grooves on them. I did measure the bore and it is just shy of 62mm.

The piston rings do not seem to have a break in them, but I have not take them out yet, however they are definitely not working anymore. The only rings that seems to be in somewhat OK shape is the oil scraper and expander ring. I will order some new rings and gaskets hope that get the compression back, but man they are proud of the rings... about $60 per cylinder for the set.

I will post some pics soon of the engine pieces here in a few. I cannot tell by the head or gaskets if it had a leak or not but the mating surfaces are pretty true.

Dan
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Old August 16th, 2021, 04:34 PM   #28
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Pics attached.
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Old August 16th, 2021, 04:49 PM   #29
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From those heavy deposits it looks like the rings weren't keeping oil out for quite a while. I bet the rings aren't sealing because they're stuck solidly in their grooves.
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Old August 16th, 2021, 04:52 PM   #30
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well, that's your LOW compression reason.... NOT Zero compression but compression gauges aren't all that accurate most of the time so I think we can disregard the Zero compression reading now....
signs of rust.... probably from just sitting for decades, but with the collapsed rings....I would suspect it over heated at some point in it's past. perhaps water leaked into the cylinders(from a bad head gasket perhaps) causing the overheating in the first place. which would hurt the rings....
when an engine runs Hot the first thing to go is the temper in the rings ....
....
were the rings stuck to the piston all the way around by carbon ?
How do you come to your conclusion the rings have collapsed....if their intact ?
I wouldn't bother messing with the valves myself, just clean them up good
blow into the port and see if they hold pressure , if so your good to go !
....
No scoring on the cylinder walls ?..... You are a lucky person !LOL
.... I have no doubt it will run again....
...

I say put in new OEM rings and run it that way before you go to the expense of a complete rebuild.... it probably doesn't NEED a complete rebuild !
in my view a bike doesn't need a complete rebuild till 50,000 to 75,000 miles
....but that's a ambiguous rule of thumb... the odometer tells nothing of how it has been maintained . so use your own judgment !
....
it's good to see you got the head and cylinders off.... that should revill all the evils that are keeping that thing from running.

later...
Bob.........
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Old August 16th, 2021, 05:00 PM   #31
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Definitely, I agree with Triple Jim...
that is alot of oil burning I think...
...
Bob......
Nice pic's by the way and you have a nice clean shop to do that in ! KOOL !
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Old August 16th, 2021, 05:06 PM   #32
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Here is the piston, hopefully its clear enough. The first and second compression ring is basically even with the piston, I am pushing all rings from the backside on this photo and the only one that is coming out at all are the oil rings and the expander. I tried to mess with the two compression rings and I can move them but not very easily.

To clean the carbon deposists, anyone have any recommendations for a good products I can soak this in? Since this is aluminum I am assuming steel wire brushes are a big nono, maybe some copper wool with some good dissolver?

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Old August 16th, 2021, 06:37 PM   #33
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humm.... well I usually just bust a ring ( sense your buying new ones anyway)
and use the sharpened end of the ring to clean the Ring groove. some times the 1st and second rings are of different thickness, so use a piece of ring to clean Only that groove....
Wrapping black tape around the back half of the ring piece your using to clean the groove helps to hang on to and prevent cuts to your fingers. and you can put more force into it.
...... from what I'm seeing .... i think it should have ran on quick start..... and that is puzzling to me.... that's ODD !
was the battery in good shape when you tried it with quickstart or way down in charge ? because a few times I have ran into no spark when trying to start a bike with electronic ignition, if the battery is low..... but it will crank over fine.
in other words the ignition is the first to go, when the battery is low....
I have a honda quad in the back yard that has to have a fully charged battery to just start.... yet alone to shift it's electric shift garbage !
....
Bob....
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Old August 16th, 2021, 06:45 PM   #34
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I think the rings are just stuck in burned oil goop. Having owned my H2 since 1978 I've seen a few stuck rings like this. work them out, preferably with the use of a ring expander that supports the ring properly. Soaking in Varsol (mineral spirits) can help. Acetone can too. Scraping with whatever tool works for you is fine. To clean the ring grooves some guys use a piece of a broken ring. There's nothing wrong with wire brushing the crowns. Just don't gouge or remove material from the sides.

This is the type of ring expander I mean. It is less likely to break an expensive ring then the type that looks like a pair of pliers.

https://www.amazon.com/Piston-Expand.../dp/B01MFGTX8V
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Old August 16th, 2021, 07:46 PM   #35
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Oh Jim ! you have an H2 ? that has to be a classic now.... the 500cc triples
were amazing machines... but the one I always wanted but never obtained was the H3 750cc triple .... the first one I ever got to ride I spent an hour getting the timing just perfect on.... then took it for a test run and I was shocked !
it pulled so hard that the handle bars were opening up my grip I shifted and the front wheel came up about 12" off the ground and it accelerated even harder
I thought I was going to loose my grip on the bars !!!!! man that thing pulled hard !.... every sense that day I wanted to own one of those they sound like a jet taking off when you light them up ! but alas their extremely hard to find now....
a 2 stroke triple is fast no matter it's displacement ! I even seen a 250cc triple wheelie leaving the shop ! LOL and the 250's were Tame in comparison !
to the H2 500cc .... and back in the day every one was all enamored over the KZ 900 but I could not understand why because either the H2 or H3 could eat them for lunch.... to me the KZ 900 was like riding a refrigerator !
heavy, wide and bulky..... but they did get up and move !

the H2 I think had 56hp and the H3 had 72hp and for a light bike that meant one thing, acceleration !
.... they handled as good as any bike of the day.... (in other words not very good) but they were a very good machine.... shame they didn't last very long
though.... the piston port of the triples made them go through Rings like candy ! ....
there's 2 bikes on my bucket list I want to get, 1) an H3 750 triple
and 2) a Triumph Bonneville 650.... both in the 1970~1975 era.
....
Just had to throw that in there.... don't mean to hijack the repair work !
Bob.......
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Old August 16th, 2021, 08:01 PM   #36
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Oh Jim ! you have an H2 ? that has to be a classic now.... the 500cc triples
were amazing machines... but the one I always wanted but never obtained was the H3 750cc triple ...
The H1 is 500cc. My H2 is an early 1972 750, actually built in late 1971, rated from the factory at 74hp. There is no H3. There was an S3, which was 400cc.

The cylinders on mine are the originals, now on the 4th overbore, so it's a 790 now. I've ported it to H2R specs and added reed valves, my own expansion chambers, and 34mm carbs, so the pull you felt is somewhat tame compared to this one. When I get on it I always feel like I'm 20 again.

For the last 12 years I've made my living manufacturing replacement electronics for the triples: www.lakeserv.net

Here's my H2:
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Old August 16th, 2021, 08:48 PM   #37
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Looks Nice to say the least....
thanks for the corrections my brain and memory isn't what it used to be...
I could'a swore the 750 triple got 72 hp but it has been so long ago and alot of water has gone under the bridge sense then...LOL
it sounds like you really fixed up that machine !
tuned pipes alone were supposed to add 12 hp ! .....
yep ! I think that thing would be scary to ride for me ! LOL
with all those mods I bet it can wheelie just by bliping the throttle !
....
they certainly don't make them like that any more.... it's Hard to beat a big 2 stroke !
.....
I'ed probably hurt myself on one of those but you wouldn't happen to know of one for sale would ya ?
....
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Old August 16th, 2021, 08:58 PM   #38
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with all those mods I bet it can wheelie just by bliping the throttle !

I'ed probably hurt myself on one of those but you wouldn't happen to know of one for sale would ya ?
When I added the reeds I went quite a bit taller with the gearing. It wheelies in 1st just fine, but that's around 50-60 mph now.

They're around and available, but one in decent condition but not "restored" is going to be the better part of 10k now. A true original survivor or a "correctly" restored one is going to be approaching 20k. If you're really interested I can tell you where to look.
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Old August 17th, 2021, 01:32 AM   #39
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Woooh ! never mind I'm not rich enough for that !
like the triumph I guess, they went way up in price !
....nah I'll be happy with my Ninja and RX4 when it finally gets here...
I took the TT250 up the road here this afternoon, I got 85miles on it now...
I went to Parks creek trail head which is about half way between weed and Callahan, here in N.California. got to see some beautiful country side and one steep canyon that has to be a mile deep ! .... my butt is still sore ! LOL
but there is a bike that can use a final gearing change too in my opinion
55mph cruse is just too slow for me ! LOL
like the Ninja 1st is almost useless it's start and shift,and shift again before your doing 35mph !
....
I think I'll take the Ninja up there next time and see how much of a difference there is between the 2 machines... I already know it will be a faster trip on the Ninja... but I want to see how she handles the road with her hard suspension.... I think it will beat me to death !....LOL
.....
you wouldn't happen to know how to soften the ride on a 2012 250R would ya ? I think most guys would be looking to harden it up for the track but not me ...I want a cushy ride ! heheheheh!
....
later !
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Old August 17th, 2021, 05:30 AM   #40
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you wouldn't happen to know how to soften the ride on a 2012 250R would ya ?
Do you know if it's completely stock, or could someone have messed with fork oil viscosity and/or level, for example?
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