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Old September 28th, 2019, 10:07 AM   #1
kvgeorge1
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Unhappy Starting problems

This may be similar to https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...hlight=starter, but I am not sure.

Basically, I went out to startup my 2008 250r and it would not even crank (been sitting there a couple of weeks or so, and the battery was NOT on the tender). It would make a sound like the starter was trying to engage (a quick grinding noise), but nothing. Since the battery was really old, and I had a spare that I purchased a couple of years ago but never used, I changed it out.

No joy - not even the starter sounding like it was activating, but it DID sound like the relay was engaging because every time I pressed the ignition switch, I hear a click like a relay engaging. I then wiggled and pressed the red solenoid cap that contains the 30A fuse in all the way, and the starter started to grind again, but no crank. I unplugged it thinking the 30A fuse was blown, checked it with a meter, and it was good. Put it all back together, and again - no sound other than the relay engaging when I press the switch.

Does this sound like the starter is bad, or some other problem? How would I go about troubleshooting it to find out?
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Old September 28th, 2019, 11:44 AM   #2
GAU-8
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Readers Digest

Batteries a few years old, kept around as " known good" also go bad! It is worth the money to buy a load testing battery unit! Voltage does not correlate the cranking power/amps behind it!

I picked up a 600 cc bike, (SECA II) dirt cheep and was in showroom condition, because the "known good" 6 month old backup battery was ALSO BAD. And nobody thought to check that battery! I bought it, put my battery in it, fired right up.

I know it's not the answer you are looking for, but get a load tester, or get your batteries tested.
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Old September 28th, 2019, 02:04 PM   #3
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Yeah, lead-acid batteries self-discharge when sitting around. Remember that old-mechanic/wives' tale about leaving batteries on concrete floor causing them to go flat? It's not concrete, but letting them sit not on tender that caused problem. And batteries on floor are more likely not to be used and charged. It only takes 4-6 months of sitting around for fully-charged battery to get completely discharged and destroyed.

To verify dead batteries in this case, is to jump-start bike from confirmed good auto-battery (one that starts car). Leave car off when jumping, and wiggle jumper-cable clamps to get good bite. Then start bike.
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Old September 28th, 2019, 03:52 PM   #4
kvgeorge1
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Thanks for all the suggestions...

I have a Battery Charger/Engine Starter for a car. Is that safe to use on it?

Also, I put the new battery on the tinder and let it sit through several cycles. Now when I press the ignition button, it buzzes. Is that indicative of not enough cranking amps?
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Old September 28th, 2019, 04:34 PM   #5
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That's not "new" battery. Yes, dead battery not able to hold charge from charger, it's kaput! Auto-charger most likely too powerful for motorcycle battery as well, only need amperage = to 1/10th capacity and 8-10hrs charging time. You can't force it faster, that will destroy battery that might be saved as well.

Jump-start pack may work, but again, it needs to be tested and confimed good. Such as starting car all on its own. If you can't get bike and car near each other to jump-start, remove battery from car and bring it to bike

Once we confirm your bike-batteries are dead, you can toss them and get new one. There's no way around this.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; September 28th, 2019 at 11:42 PM.
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Old September 28th, 2019, 10:56 PM   #6
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Forgot to mention surefire way to test battery condition:

1. Measure voltage of battery with everything OFF. What's this voltage?
2. Measure voltage of battery when you push START button. What's this voltage?

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335199
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=336946
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=318707 - multiple issues, read up to #16 only
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Old September 29th, 2019, 08:24 AM   #7
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Be aware that jump starting a motorcycle from a running car can blow the motorcycle's regulator. Jumping from a car that's not running is OK. The problem is that the running alternator in a car brings up the battery voltage to well over 14. The motorcycle regulator then tries to regulate that, but isn't designed to regulate a car alternator's high current output, so it fails.

Do AKA JacRyann's test immediately above this post and you'll know if the battery is at fault, which I suspect it is.

Last futzed with by Triple Jim; September 30th, 2019 at 06:20 AM.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 05:37 AM   #8
kvgeorge1
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I put a meter on the battery and got the following:

Battery Idle: 12.16 (that's not good)
Battery Starting: 8.64 (that's also not good)

So, I suspect the battery.

The one that is in there is a Duralast CTX7A-BS FP. However, I am no longer able to find one, but do seem to see CTX7A-BS. Is there a difference between the two?
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Old September 30th, 2019, 05:58 AM   #9
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From my understanding no there is not.

The CTX7A-BS is the battery type, and the others after is simply an identifier for the location it was manufactured.

I could be wrong, but thats what I was told, adopted, and never had issues, with battery fitment, and function.

Take it with a grain of salt, if I'm wrong, someone will point it out.

Last futzed with by GAU-8; September 30th, 2019 at 07:37 AM.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 03:30 PM   #10
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I think actual battery size is designation is 7A-BS. Extra stuff before and after are specific manufacturer's additions such as model-designation, chemistry, etc..

dimensions = 150x89x91mm

https://www.google.com/search?q="7A-BS"+battery&tbm=shop
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Old September 30th, 2019, 08:01 PM   #11
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See...


.......... ............. ............

Thx for the ole gray matter update.
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