hesitation?

[kawi_cj]

today when i was out on my bike , it started to hesitate between 8000 - 9000rpm's also the bike will not red line it will only go to 12000rpms.
hade this problem before changed the spark plugs cleaned the intake problem went away this time not so lucky.
can anyone help?

[kkim]

any mods done to the bike? how many miles on it?

[kawi_cj]

12000km

2 brothers pipe slip on
k&n filter

[kkim]

by K&N filter... are you talking about a replacement panel for the stock filter or have you removed the airbox and installed a stand alone filter?

[backinthesaddleagain]

oddly enough my box stock 2009 (US carbs model), "hiccupped" at 8K rpm yesterday in 3rd and 4th gear. Weather was in the 70s, bike was warm, road was flat and I had gone about 10 miles. Choke was off (as I know it should be, but someone might ask). By hiccupped I mean it hit 8,000 dropped to about 7,500 then climbed to 9,000. Don't know if it would have climbed higher as I was getting to slower part of road. On the next straight road it went to 9K without hesitation in 4th gear. Never noticed it before. Will check it out on highway tonight. Believe it or not I am usually under 8k rpm due to the roads I usually ride.

[kawi_cj]

just the slid in filter dident know thay had the a stand alone 1

[kawi_cj]

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

oddly enough my box stock 2009 (US carbs model), "hiccupped" at 8K rpm yesterday in 3rd and 4th gear. Weather was in the 70s, bike was warm, road was flat and I had gone about 10 miles. Choke was off (as I know it should be, but someone might ask). By hiccupped I mean it hit 8,000 dropped to about 7,500 then climbed to 9,000. Don't know if it would have climbed higher as I was getting to slower part of road. On the next straight road it went to 9K without hesitation in 4th gear. Never noticed it before. Will check it out on highway tonight. Believe it or not I am usually under 8k rpm due to the roads I usually ride.

I always am riding my bike hard,
so I was scared I broke somethin
so I feel a bit better that ur 09 had
this similar thing happen.
not in that way. Dont want u to have this
problem just I always beat up my bike
so I was scared it might be really bad.
I hope I figuer out the problem is its to nice
for my bike to be down for fixin. hahaha

[kkim]

have you made any jetting changes and what did the plugs look like when you changed them?

[backinthesaddleagain]

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

oddly enough my box stock 2009 (US carbs model), "hiccupped" at 8K rpm yesterday in 3rd and 4th gear. Weather was in the 70s, bike was warm, road was flat and I had gone about 10 miles. Choke was off (as I know it should be, but someone might ask). By hiccupped I mean it hit 8,000 dropped to about 7,500 then climbed to 9,000. Don't know if it would have climbed higher as I was getting to slower part of road. On the next straight road it went to 9K without hesitation in 4th gear. Never noticed it before. Will check it out on highway tonight. Believe it or not I am usually under 8k rpm due to the roads I usually ride.

well got on some straighter roads yesterday. most times reved right to redline. a couple times it got to 8000, dropped to 7500 then climbed to redline. paying better attention the bike was still pulling during those couple times, therefore i thik it was tach bounce in my case.

[kkim]

there have been some ignitor issues that have caused some tach inaccuaracies, but I don't recall it ever affecting the bike at the 8K range.

[kawi_cj]

Originally Posted by kkim

have you made any jetting changes and what did the plugs look like when you changed them?

no jet changes yet. Plugs looked normal lil brown no white or black

[kkim]

Originally Posted by kawi_cj

today when i was out on my bike , it started to hesitate between 8000 - 9000rpm's also the bike will not red line it will only go to 12000rpms.

what gear are you in that it won't go to redline? in all gears? if in all gears, what does it do when it reaches 12000rpm?

[kawi_cj]

all but 1st n 2nd thay r still ok
and when it gets there its just like
im stop given her gas
but if i change gears the bike will
keep speedin up

[kkim]

that's strange.

I'm assuming the bike ran fine before this?

My guess... you are actually at redline cutoff when you are reading 12K. It's the tach reading that might be off. The hesitation might be caused by a faulty ignition component... which could be the ignitor. The reason I point to the ignitor is that it could be also giving you the false redline reading on the tach.

If the bike is still under warranty, take it to a dealer to get it checked out.

[kawi_cj]

Originally Posted by kkim

that's strange.

I'm assuming the bike ran fine before this?

My guess... you are actually at redline cutoff when you are reading 12K. It's the tach reading that might be off. The hesitation might be caused by a faulty ignition component... which could be the ignitor. The reason I point to the ignitor is that it could be also giving you the false redline reading on the tach.

If the bike is still under warranty, take it to a dealer to get it checked out.

talked to the shop by my place he said
i may have got a bad spark plug
so im goin to get a new set of ngks
and see if it helps my problem
do u know the part number for them
i cant find it

[kkim]

I believe it's in your owner's manual.

[Banzai]

Originally Posted by kawi_cj

talked to the shop by my place he said
i may have got a bad spark plug
so im goin to get a new set of ngks
and see if it helps my problem
do u know the part number for them
i cant find it

I believe that the shop pointing to a bad spark plug is TOTAL and COMPLETE BS. If it were a bad spark plug, you should notice it worst at cold idle (highest load on the electrical system and lowest output from the charging system with high load on dynamic components like the oil pump) and it would be consistent across the RPM range, not a verifiable and repeatable 'step' in performance. Unless it were a wireing connection vibrating at a resonant frequency related to engine RPM regardless of gear, pointing to anything in the ignition secondary without testing the components is BS. Not sure about your earlier cure of the problem with new plugs, but that's mighty strange. These bikes are harder on plugs than most cars, but no harder than any other sport bike. That is to say, you should get years and tens of thousands of miles out of your plugs (barring any other mechanical break downs) out of a set as long as your jetting is fine. For a stock bike, that probalby means 'forever'.

Assuming that everything else is 100% with fresh fuel, etc., (espeically on a relatively stock bike) and you're jetting is correct, or at least close enough that this is a NEW issue, CDIs are known to display funky tach readings from about 7500 up to about 9000 just like you're describing.

It could be a heat related issue. The CDI is WELL KNOWN to be heat sensitive, and heat will play hell with electronics, and once it starts going bad, it's bad. It may be intermitant, and most notable with long running times or higher ambient temps outside. IF you are NOT noticing or feeling a REAL change in performance, it's the CLASSIC sign of a CDI going bad, especially if, as I suspect, you're riding it more and the daily temperature is going higher each day. Also be aware that the electronics heat up the longer you ride, regardless of outside temperature, too.

This actually sounds like what has happening to my bike with the second CDI that I had in it. As it heated up, it went AFU and actually affected how the bike was running (sent wrong timing info to BOTH coils). The first, and the third unit only displayed funky tach readings, but the second one made the bike sputter and stumble terribly once it got hot. Before it finally died, the tech guy at the shop actually got it to fail repeatedly by removing it and placing it in the fridge, then installing it and heating it at idle with a hair dryer. Somewhere around 100F ambient as measured on the CDI case, it would stumble and choke. If you put an ice pack on it and cooled it off, it would run just fine!

If it's consistent, and repeatable, and a NEW issue, then something has changed. My money is on the CDI. If you can duplicate it, and you're still under warranty, take it to the dealer.

Welcome to the "Kawi spec'd crappy electronics in the 08+ Ninja 250 CDI" club.

[kawi_cj]

Originally Posted by Banzai

I believe that the shop pointing to a bad spark plug is TOTAL and COMPLETE BS. If it were a bad spark plug, you should notice it worst at cold idle (highest load on the electrical system and lowest output from the charging system with high load on dynamic components like the oil pump) and it would be consistent across the RPM range, not a verifiable and repeatable 'step' in performance. Unless it were a wireing connection vibrating at a resonant frequency related to engine RPM regardless of gear, pointing to anything in the ignition secondary without testing the components is BS. Not sure about your earlier cure of the problem with new plugs, but that's mighty strange. These bikes are harder on plugs than most cars, but no harder than any other sport bike. That is to say, you should get years and tens of thousands of miles out of your plugs (barring any other mechanical break downs) out of a set as long as your jetting is fine. For a stock bike, that probalby means 'forever'.

Assuming that everything else is 100% with fresh fuel, etc., (espeically on a relatively stock bike) and you're jetting is correct, or at least close enough that this is a NEW issue, CDIs are known to display funky tach readings from about 7500 up to about 9000 just like you're describing.

It could be a heat related issue. The CDI is WELL KNOWN to be heat sensitive, and heat will play hell with electronics, and once it starts going bad, it's bad. It may be intermitant, and most notable with long running times or higher ambient temps outside. IF you are NOT noticing or feeling a REAL change in performance, it's the CLASSIC sign of a CDI going bad, especially if, as I suspect, you're riding it more and the daily temperature is going higher each day. Also be aware that the electronics heat up the longer you ride, regardless of outside temperature, too.

This actually sounds like what has happening to my bike with the second CDI that I had in it. As it heated up, it went AFU and actually affected how the bike was running (sent wrong timing info to BOTH coils). The first, and the third unit only displayed funky tach readings, but the second one made the bike sputter and stumble terribly once it got hot. Before it finally died, the tech guy at the shop actually got it to fail repeatedly by removing it and placing it in the fridge, then installing it and heating it at idle with a hair dryer. Somewhere around 100F ambient as measured on the CDI case, it would stumble and choke. If you put an ice pack on it and cooled it off, it would run just fine!

If it's consistent, and repeatable, and a NEW issue, then something has changed. My money is on the CDI. If you can duplicate it, and you're still under warranty, take it to the dealer.

Welcome to the "Kawi spec'd crappy electronics in the 08+ Ninja 250 CDI" club.

well i was out on the bike td n i noticed that now 3rd 4th 5th n 6thafter 8gs
on the tach the bike is now back fireing n it wont go over 12gs
also when i start the bike most of the times it gives a BIG BANG n a flame shoots out the tail pipe i asked a friend that knows small motors n he said if u have a back fire on a lawn more shim the carb on it n it will take away the back fire away i have not shimed the carb yet do u think it will help