May 23rd, 2017, 09:39 AM | #1 |
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Interesting battery overview
This is a pretty good article (with a-little advertising);
http://www.bikebandit.com/blog/post/...How_To_Tuesday Bill |
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May 23rd, 2017, 01:41 PM | #2 |
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Cool article. Needs some more specific information that's different between lead-acid vs. lithium batteries.
CCA - is the raw amperage the battery can output. With lead-acid batteries, their output goes down immensely quick in cold-weather. A battery that outputs 200cca at room temperature may shrivel up to just 100cca @ 0-degreesF. This is why high CCA ratings always seem to be a desireable trait with lead-acid batteries. However, a lithium battery does not drop anywhere nearly as much, just -20% at most. So a 200cca lithium battery will still output 160cca @ 0-degrees, significantly outperforming a lead-acid battery in cold-weather. This gives you overhead to downsize the battery for additional weight-savings. Actual amperage-draw from starter I've measured around 50-60 amps. In which case, I can use a smaller-than-stock battery. In fact, I'm using this Ballistic EVO2 battery. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41al6O2pkRL._SX355_.jpg Charging - Resting-state of lead-acid batteries is about 12.8v after 6-12hrs off the charger. However, that does not mean the charger is sending 12.8v to the battery. Most chargers use 13.8-15v in order to generate the amperage needed to charge battery. This will charge a lithium battery just fine. However, maximum life-span for lithium batteries is obtained with charging them only up to 80% full. Many phones, laptops and tablets will lie to you about their battery's charge. Iphones for example, will indicate 100% full when it's actually only 80%. Leaving the Iphone on charger longer after reaching "100%" will give you additional run-time as the battery will be taken up to 90% actual full-capacity. Here's more detailed info on batteries: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...tery_knowledge |
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May 23rd, 2017, 02:15 PM | #3 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bill
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Quote:
I thought that the alternator in my van had crapped out. So, I got out my DVOM and at rest my car battery was a-bit over 12 volts. I started the car and the voltage across the battery terminals was over 17 V. Do you think that's why they don't want you jumping your bike battery off a running automobile? Bill |
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May 23rd, 2017, 02:20 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Or as you said, leave the jumping auto off and just use its battery to start the dead one. |
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May 24th, 2017, 03:31 AM | #5 | |
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May 24th, 2017, 03:31 AM | #6 | |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): '18 Ninja 400 • '09 Ninja 500R (selling) • '98 VFR800 (project) • '85 Vulcan VN700 (sold) Posts: A lot.
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MOTM - Aug '15
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Quote:
__________________________________________________
*** Unregistered, I'm not your mom and I'm not paying for your parts, so do whatever you want with your own bike. *** |
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May 24th, 2017, 08:38 AM | #7 |
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Also the method of measuring CCA is different between lead-acid batteries vs. lithium. On lead-acid, CCA is measured where voltage drops to 7.2v. It's kind of a worthless measurement because I doubt any auto or bike ECU is going to work at such a low-voltage anyway.
On lithium, the standard is 9.5v, which is more likely to operate the electronics. But gives a lower CCA number. Deceptive, since you can't directly compare CCA between the two. Lithium's CCA rating would be much higher if it was loaded down to 7.2v. |
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May 24th, 2017, 08:45 AM | #8 | |
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Bill |
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May 24th, 2017, 09:15 AM | #9 |
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The reference-voltage monitoring line going to the alternator's regulator is probably faulty or disconnected. This is terminal "S" on the regulator and is typically a blue wire going to the battery or dash. The regulator uses the S line to increase or lower output voltage so it hits target at the reference point, typically 13.8v. Car seems to be working fine, but your batterys being overcharged and will boil off its electrolyte.
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May 24th, 2017, 10:29 AM | #10 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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Thanks, Bill |
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May 24th, 2017, 05:35 PM | #11 |
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Charge-lamp coming on means alternator's not charging battery. No current flow means no voltage drop, hence the high voltage (still seems too high though). You may find car getting weaker and weaker, stumbling and dying as battery is drained fully.
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May 24th, 2017, 08:48 PM | #12 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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Cheers, Bill |
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