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Old January 19th, 2011, 07:07 PM   #1
onizthegnome
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switched to synthetic / debris in old oil

hey everyone, i just did another oil change yesterday and i switched out from 10w40 to 5w40 synthetic (shell rotella T). its supposed to be better for colder climates from what ive read. i also replaced the oil filter and i found a lot of gritty particles in the oil when i drained it and also around the old oil filter. how bad is it to have debris in your oil? any way to prevent this from happening or is it normal?
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Old January 19th, 2011, 07:22 PM   #2
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What is it? Metal, or just clumpy oil? Synthetic oil will help clean your motor out. So dirt/old oil build up could be comming out. Could be a good thing, but I am by no means a pro when it comes to oil. (I just know it starts a lot of fuss with people) lol
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Old January 19th, 2011, 08:07 PM   #3
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ive read multiple articles about what the right oil is and it seems like its 50/50 about who is right and who is wrong about what oil to use. you would think there is a definite answer to it by now. very frustrating! oh well. the particles seemed to be metallic and hard. kind of like sand made of metal. there wasnt too much of it but i definitely saw some around the rubber o rings when i changed the oil filter. i could be wrong because i didnt strain it for further inspection but im guessing it is.
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Old January 19th, 2011, 08:15 PM   #4
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Maybe someone who knows more about this could chime in. If this were happening to me, I would run the bike on the new oil for a few days then drain it and check for more particles. Then of course put new oil and a filter in. It may just be dirt working it's way out.?.

Edit: Is the bike running well? How long was your last oil change before this one?
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Old January 19th, 2011, 09:26 PM   #5
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post a picture of the "grit".
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Old January 20th, 2011, 08:53 AM   #6
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well, it's usually VERY bad to have debris of any kind in your oil. Is it possible it's friction material off your clutch? I would try to flush the oil out until the oil comes out clean.
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Old January 20th, 2011, 09:15 AM   #7
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How many miles are on it?
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Old January 20th, 2011, 09:23 AM   #8
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what does it taste like?
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Old January 20th, 2011, 10:23 AM   #9
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what does it taste like?
Cookies!!!!
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Old January 21st, 2011, 12:55 PM   #10
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How many miles on the bike? How many oil changes has it had before?
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Old January 21st, 2011, 01:53 PM   #11
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well currently it has 3700 miles on it, i bought it at 3200 miles. i changed the oil and filter right after i bought it and again just a few days ago. im the third owner and its salvage rebuilt. what else can i mention about it.. oh i usually let it idle for 10-15 mins before i take off so i dont stall from a full stop and temps here have been between 20 and 40.
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 10:09 AM   #12
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well currently it has 3700 miles on it, i bought it at 3200 miles. i changed the oil and filter right after i bought it and again just a few days ago. im the third owner and its salvage rebuilt. what else can i mention about it.. oh i usually let it idle for 10-15 mins before i take off so i dont stall from a full stop and temps here have been between 20 and 40.
Most people report seeing debris in their oil for the first two or three changes. Kawi suggests your first at 600mi then your second at 4,000mi, which is way too long to have that crap in your engine in many people's opinions. It's probably too soon for full synthetic unless it got one almost right away and then at around 500 and 1,000 miles, which it probably did not considering that you still saw stuff in the oil. IOW, there's no reason to use synth if there is still gunk in there to get out.
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 10:32 AM   #13
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Might I recommend a magnetic oil drain bolt just so that you can reduce the mount of debris floating around in the oil. It will draw metal to the bolt and give you a better idea of whether or not the amount of debris is diminishing after each oil change. You will know as you will have less and less metal stuck to the bolt after each oil change.
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 03:00 PM   #14
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Might I recommend a magnetic oil drain bolt just so that you can reduce the mount of debris floating around in the oil. It will draw metal to the bolt and give you a better idea of whether or not the amount of debris is diminishing after each oil change. You will know as you will have less and less metal stuck to the bolt after each oil change.
that is a good idea. i didnt know they had magnetic oil drain bolts. where might i get one?
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 03:56 PM   #15
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that is a good idea. i didnt know they had magnetic oil drain bolts. where might i get one?
I don't know the size and thread pitch off the top of my head but I will research it and post it later tonight. I've been meaning to buy one for my bike as well.
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Old January 22nd, 2011, 04:55 PM   #16
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Between getting dumped (totalled) and three owners in 2 years I doubt the earl was changed even once before you came along. I'd dump the synthetic immediately and run regular grade throught it at least twice. once for a day and once for a week and see how it looks, especially if the drop was black along with the flakes.., which are normal. Then even do a third run of a month keeping you eye on glass oil window. All you need is a plastic tray from the dollar store, leftover plastic milk cartons from home and filter wrench (which you'll always need.) Once you're running clear change to semi-syntec or full depending on cost, budget, clarity and how often you want to chage it. My 05 semi-synthetic BelRay runs clear between changes to this day. You'll get it I have no doubt, these people were the ones to come to, especially if you wanted some jocularity as well.
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Old January 28th, 2011, 05:43 PM   #17
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well, it's usually VERY bad to have debris of any kind in your oil. Is it possible it's friction material off your clutch? I would try to flush the oil out until the oil comes out clean.
Friction material from the clutch? didnt think of that... so clutch debri is something you'll commonly find in your oil?
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Old January 28th, 2011, 07:29 PM   #18
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Between getting dumped (totalled) and three owners in 2 years I doubt the earl was changed even once before you came along. I'd dump the synthetic immediately and run regular grade throught it at least twice. once for a day and once for a week and see how it looks, especially if the drop was black along with the flakes.., which are normal. Then even do a third run of a month keeping you eye on glass oil window. All you need is a plastic tray from the dollar store, leftover plastic milk cartons from home and filter wrench (which you'll always need.) Once you're running clear change to semi-syntec or full depending on cost, budget, clarity and how often you want to chage it. My 05 semi-synthetic BelRay runs clear between changes to this day. You'll get it I have no doubt, these people were the ones to come to, especially if you wanted some jocularity as well.
I think I'd have to agree with coondog. Unless the previous 3 owners have anything remotely close to service records, I'd assume that the oil probably hasnt been changed very many times if at all. I'd treat it as new and do some frequent oil changes. Use conventional oil to save money and change it every 200-400 miles for the next 1000 miles.

Just curious, if you knew it was totalled/salvage title, why'd you buy it? Did you get a good deal on it?
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Old January 29th, 2011, 08:14 PM   #19
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I think I'd have to agree with coondog. Unless the previous 3 owners have anything remotely close to service records, I'd assume that the oil probably hasnt been changed very many times if at all. I'd treat it as new and do some frequent oil changes. Use conventional oil to save money and change it every 200-400 miles for the next 1000 miles.

Just curious, if you knew it was totalled/salvage title, why'd you buy it? Did you get a good deal on it?
well the dude that sold it to me said it was a clean title at first. later after he showed me the title, i noticed it said salvage rebuilt. he seemed shocked about it, claimed that he didnt know and that made me upset. so he lowered the price a little and at the same time i kind of had that impulse to buy it since i didnt think anything was extremely wrong with it except a few cosmetic cracks that could only be seen up close. i gave it a test ride and it was fine. it was the cheapest deal on craigslist so far and all the other sellers were trying to sell their ninjettes for up to 4,500 which blew my mind.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 08:28 PM   #20
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so he lowered the price a little and at the same time i kind of had that impulse to buy it since i didnt think anything was extremely wrong with it except a few cosmetic cracks that could only be seen up close.
I would not have bought the bike unless he lowered the price a LOT at that point. there's no way he didn't know the bike had a salvaged title, unless he didn't personally register the bike when he bought it.
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Old January 29th, 2011, 08:50 PM   #21
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Yeah, that guy was tring to not tell you that. You can't miss that on a title. I don't care who you are, people always look at the title.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 12:30 AM   #22
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Bummers. No worries though. Go through an thoroughly inspect it. I'm sure with all the experts here, you'll be able to get it in tip top shape.

What's done is done. In my book, you're still ahead since you have a "new to you" Ninja 250R to learn on and ride till it really is broke.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #23
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looks like its running fine now. i did accidentally put a little too much oil in and had it like that for a few days. now the oil is drained to the proper level. then i noticed something different, the oil level in the window used to go down after starting the engine but now the oil seems to seep back while the engine is running. is this a bad sign?
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Old February 10th, 2011, 10:43 PM   #24
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looks like its running fine now. i did accidentally put a little too much oil in and had it like that for a few days. now the oil is drained to the proper level. then i noticed something different, the oil level in the window used to go down after starting the engine but now the oil seems to seep back while the engine is running. is this a bad sign?
Hard for me to sit here and make a determination without actually looking at your bike but as long as the oil sits between the markers in the sight glass and as long as the oil pressure light does not come on, then you should be ok. Obviously, if the bike runs fine as well then all should be good. I'm not an expert however, and someone else here might have a different opinion.
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Old February 10th, 2011, 11:50 PM   #25
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I think you should be fine as well. Make sure to change out the filter when you change oil. The filter absorbs a good chunk of oil.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 12:00 AM   #26
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looks like its running fine now. i did accidentally put a little too much oil in and had it like that for a few days. now the oil is drained to the proper level. then i noticed something different, the oil level in the window used to go down after starting the engine but now the oil seems to seep back while the engine is running. is this a bad sign?
the bike was upright and level when you determined the proper oil level in the sight window and not on its side side, correct?
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Old February 11th, 2011, 12:43 AM   #27
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Ditto, I use the throttle grip to balance the bike while checking the oil sight. Curious of why someone would do this with the engine on.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 06:42 PM   #28
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Ditto, I use the throttle grip to balance the bike while checking the oil sight. Curious of why someone would do this with the engine on.
Well I wouldnt. That's what stands are for. Rear stands are like screwdrivers when it comes to motorcycle maintenance. It's ridiculous how much easier it makes it.
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Old February 11th, 2011, 08:29 PM   #29
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except, when the bike is on the rear stand, the oil level that shows up in the window is not the same as with the bike on level ground and perfectly upright. there is a slight difference... trust me. If you want to do it on the stand, get a good reading the "proper" way, then put the bike on the stand and note the oil level so you will know what the "proper" level looks like when your bike is on the stand.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 11:22 AM   #30
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There's just no pleasing you is there? Ok will do. Never really put much thought into the whole leveling thing.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 11:38 AM   #31
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it's not about pleasing me, but pleasing your bike.

try it and see if the levels don't change. if not, then continue checking the oil level on the rear stand.

running an overfilled or underfilled crankcase can have disastrous results for an engine.... and by "over" and "under" I mean outside the window levels.
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Old February 12th, 2011, 02:42 PM   #32
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Like a balance beam, raise the front wheel till the gap at the bottom of the rear and front tire is the same while on the center stand. Ta Da!
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Old February 12th, 2011, 02:54 PM   #33
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Like a balance beam, raise the front wheel till the gap at the bottom of the rear and front tire is the same while on the center stand. Ta Da!
you must be drinking too much pregen koolaid... no centerstand on the newgens.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 02:19 PM   #34
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well this is just my observation from when i had 10w40 in it. the oil level would be at the full level with engine off. with engine on, it would be somewhere close to the low level and stay there. and of course these were checked with the bike perfectly upright on flat leveled ground, no bike stands, just me holding the bike and balancing it. now after switching to synthetic, it noticed the oil level is at full with engine off, and with engine on, the oil level first goes to low and then up to half full because i see oil filling up the sight glass. look at your bike and see if it does the same thing!
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Old February 14th, 2011, 02:23 PM   #35
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yes i did run the bike with too much oil for a few days before realizing it had a little too much so i drained some out. disastrous results? i hope thats not the case with my engine.
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Old February 14th, 2011, 02:36 PM   #36
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Oh yes you have the cheaper and slower addition, no centre stand! lol
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