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Old June 30th, 2017, 06:06 AM   #1
DirtyPelican
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DirtyPelican Bobber Build

Hello all, Im new to this site but not bikes or riding. Ive been riding for about 8 years. I purchased a 2006 Ninja 250 for cheap since it needs some work. Ive owned 4 bikes, this is my second carbureted bike but the first which Im going to work on. Ive built and tracked sport bikes so I know basic maintenance and can take it apart. I never however tore off a carb and fixed it.
Its nice not having to worry about not having a bike to ride since its in many pieces. My other bike is a Triumph Speed Triple and its a world of difference, but this project bike is something Im thrilled to work on. I welcome any insight, advice, help and comments.

The bike itself starts up but wont hold an idle, but I have a lot more things to tend to before getting there ultimately. Im going to buy and install the Blue Collar Bobbers kit and Im going to do all the work, including paint which Im also new at.



I took off all the plastics yesterday and got rid of all the things not needed (mirrors, turn signals, lights).



Today I hope to drain the tank and pull it off. The gas tank lock is stuck, possibly corroded which I might just drill out and replace with a keyless cap for sake of ease. I need to get a copy made of the key since its not in great shape from trying to open said stuck gas cap. Going change the oil and try to get to the carbs to see what they look like. The bike does need some parts mainly a stock exhaust (going to sell that Muzzy, I have no interest in it) and a centerstand to get everything else off (forks for oil, wheels)
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Old June 30th, 2017, 04:48 PM   #2
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Managed to get the tank off the bike as well as get the lock open with a new key from the locksmith. The cap was pretty corroded and I managed to take it apart and grease it all up. The inside of the tank seems to be decently rusted and the petcock filter is gone. Im going to try to clean the tank somehow (maybe vinegar/coke and powerwashing it.) then Im gonna reseal the inside. Might be more cost effective than another used tank.



I managed to drain the fuel and it was a terrible dark color. I ended up with two gallons of this stuff



As for draining the carbs, the bowls were filled with green fuel, either from the brass oxidation or maybe a fuel stabilizer. Im hoping to get the airbox and carbs out tomorrow and tear into those in the next coming days

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Old June 30th, 2017, 05:26 PM   #3
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You sure the brown junk in the tank isn't residue from old gasoline? I've had a couple that got like that, and at first I thought it was rust. Lacquer thinner will probably get soften it if it's residue/varnish, but I usually have to put some small gravel in and shake it around off and on for a day or two.

The green gas in carbs has always been a signal that they need a very thorough disassembly and cleaning when I've come across it.
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Old June 30th, 2017, 06:32 PM   #4
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I was gonna start simple and go from there. Perhaps vinegar and some nuts and bolts shaken. As for the green it was clear so maybe thats saying something. I should be able to pull the carb tomorrow.
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Old June 30th, 2017, 07:28 PM   #5
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Old July 1st, 2017, 07:21 PM   #6
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Today I managed to swap out the spark plugs. Out with the old



New gapped NGK's



I got the airbox apart and out



Got it all cleaned up

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Old July 1st, 2017, 07:25 PM   #7
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Also managed to get the carbs out,





from the outside they look ok, and even the bowls arent too bad but the jets definitely needed to be cleaned.



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Old July 3rd, 2017, 10:29 AM   #8
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I took some vinegar to the tank for about 10 hours, followed by a baking soda rinse to neutralize and then ran a bottle of rubbing alcohol thru it to dry up some water. Left it over night open to dry up and the tank seems almost brand new.



I took the carbs apart and soaked all the small bits in Pine-sol for about 2 days. Took a brush to them, passed a small wire thru all the small holes, and blew air thru them. The carbs themselves are still soaking.







All cleaned up

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Old July 5th, 2017, 04:30 PM   #9
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Other than waiting on the new the float bowl gaskets, Ive managed to put the carb back together. Adjusted the floats, turned mixture screws 2.5 turns out...fingers crossed that it starts up this weekend. Ill have the fire extinguisher nearby.

I have the new petcock waiting to install, ordered the new spark plug wiring and since my throttle wire was kinked at the grip, a new one as well.
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Old July 7th, 2017, 04:39 PM   #10
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New petcock is in the tank, back on. Carb is cleaned, newly gasketed and on as well. New spark plug wires installed and sparking. Primed the bowls and fired it up. Took a few tries but after moving the idle screw a bit, it holds a perfect idle. Im going to try to sync the carbs tomorrow and continue on from there.

I currently have a Muzzy exhaust that Im looking to get rid of. I need a stock exhaust (mufflers and headers if anyone has one they want to part with) as well as a centerstand.

Im also lost a pound of sweat trying to take off the rear axle to no avail. The bolt and axle just spin together but wont break!! Anyone have any tips to get this damn thing off
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Old July 7th, 2017, 04:43 PM   #11
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One wrench on the axle's hex head and another on the axle nut. More details here:

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removi...the_rear_wheel
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Old July 7th, 2017, 04:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
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One wrench on the axle's hex head and another on the axle nut. More details here:

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removi...the_rear_wheel
I tried it all, the damn thing doesnt want to budge. My forearms are on fire
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Old July 7th, 2017, 05:00 PM   #13
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Do you have in impact wrench or a breaker bar?
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Old July 7th, 2017, 05:03 PM   #14
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Do you have in impact wrench or a breaker bar?
I have a breaker bar or two and I even tried the floor method. I soaked in PB and hopefully might heat it off tomorrow morning.
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Old July 9th, 2017, 06:41 AM   #15
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After MUCH struggling, and a bruise or two, I finally got the front and rear axle off. PB Blaster and all the strength I could muster on two breaker bars and that crack of the nut was so satisfying.
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Old July 9th, 2017, 07:26 AM   #16
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Good! And if you adjust the chain once in a while, it probably won't get stuck like that again.
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Old July 9th, 2017, 02:49 PM   #17
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that Dirty Pelican gets dirty

Keep up the good work -you Dirty Pelican!

... also, More PICS !!!

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Old July 9th, 2017, 04:48 PM   #18
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Keep up the good work -you Dirty Pelican!

... also, More PICS !!!

I was just thinking how I need to take more pics. I took off and cleaned the rear brake and not one single photo till I was done. Im the worst
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Old July 11th, 2017, 10:26 AM   #19
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Started taking off the rear and front calipers to renew them. They obviously need new pads (non existent more or less) and Im going to go with stainless line in the front. As a former track guy Im very bias on the front brake and I also like a softer pad in the back so it doesn't lock up.





The fluid was atrocious. If your fluid ever looks like this, shame on you







I also order the centerstand and stock exhaust as well as the Blue Collar Bobbers kit. Im very excited to get that kit and convert this bike, the company has been nothing but accommodating. Im going to get the forks off this bike and get some new oil in them and that should be about it for fixing, before chain lube and coolant swap. As for the stock exhaust, is anyone in the market for a Muzzy exhaust. I have no need for it.



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Old July 11th, 2017, 10:26 AM   #20
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Started taking off the rear and front calipers to renew them. They obviously need new pads (non existent more or less) and Im going to go with stainless line in the front. As a former track guy Im very bias on the front brake and I also like a softer pad in the back so it doesn't lock up.





The fluid was atrocious. If your fluid ever looks like this, shame on you







I also order the centerstand and stock exhaust as well as the Blue Collar Bobbers kit. Im very excited to get that kit and convert this bike, the company has been nothing but accommodating. Im going to get the forks off this bike and get some new oil in them and that should be about it for fixing, before chain lube and coolant swap. As for the stock exhaust, is anyone in the market for a Muzzy exhaust. I have no need for it.



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Old July 11th, 2017, 04:18 PM   #21
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Got around to taking off the brakes today. They were absolutely filthy yet still had some decent bite while walking the bike around.





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Old July 11th, 2017, 04:20 PM   #22
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The pads will be replaced with new front and back since they basically dont exist. The front line will be replaced with stainless, and the rear will remain stock. As a prior track rider I tend to bias the front and I like a softer pad on the rear as to not lock it up.





Also if anyone's brake fluid ever looks like this then shame on you

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Old July 11th, 2017, 04:23 PM   #23
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I ordered the kit from Blue Collar Bobbers and I couldnt be happier with the communication back and forth with this company. This might not be everyones best option but the one complete kit just seemed like a no brainer to me. Ive ordered a used stock header pipe and centerstand and hope to have it all mounted up this week. Which means I now have a used full Muzzy system if anyone is interested.

More updates as the parts start flowing in.
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Old July 11th, 2017, 05:18 PM   #24
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Waiting for the photos.
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Old July 11th, 2017, 05:24 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Waiting for the photos.
Im going to get the forks off this week to take care of the cracked dust seals and when the pads and lines come in, Ill remember to take photos.

Ill also make sure to take photos of the items in the boxes
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Old July 11th, 2017, 07:14 PM   #26
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I don't need photos of the seals and pads... I'm waiting for the bodywork!
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Old July 11th, 2017, 07:42 PM   #27
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I don't need photos of the seals and pads... I'm waiting for the bodywork!
From what they tell me its all aluminum body work. You cut the frame under the seat, add a new section and everything bolts up. Then the hardest part will be getting color on this thing.
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Old July 12th, 2017, 03:10 AM   #28
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After MUCH struggling, and a bruise or two, I finally got the front and rear axle off. PB Blaster and all the strength I could muster on two breaker bars and that crack of the nut was so satisfying.
I always use a light film of lithium grease on my axle threads and the entire length of the axle. Why the entire axle? I had the inner bearing races rust fast to the axle once - that was no picnic. I never have a problem removing my axles as a result.
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Old July 12th, 2017, 03:12 AM   #29
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The pads will be replaced with new front and back since they basically dont exist. The front line will be replaced with stainless, and the rear will remain stock. As a prior track rider I tend to bias the front and I like a softer pad on the rear as to not lock it up.





Also if anyone's brake fluid ever looks like this then shame on you

That's why I replace my brake fluid every spring.

Bill
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Old July 12th, 2017, 04:02 AM   #30
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I always use a light film of lithium grease on my axle threads and the entire length of the axle. Why the entire axle? I had the inner bearing races rust fast to the axle once - that was no picnic. I never have a problem removing my axles as a result.
Im the same way, no matter what it says I always lube the axle. Its been so long since Ive has a rear axle bike like this, my triumph is single sided swingarm so its just a bolt on one side, so its like taking off a car wheel.
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Old July 12th, 2017, 04:03 AM   #31
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That's why I replace my brake fluid every spring.

Bill
Same, I started doing it with my track bike and now its a habit every season damn near.
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Old July 12th, 2017, 04:13 PM   #32
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So today was a good but not great day. I got the new header and installed it. I love that its coated in black. Not sure how long itll last, but I thnk its powdercoated. Its pretty cool I think.

And then I remove the fork dust seals to take a look at them since they will be replaced due to cracking and the oil seals on one fork is shot. Seems the retaining ring is corroded and caused that corrosion to eat thru the seal. DAMN just when everything was rolling somewhat smooth.

What is the recommendation for seal replacements? I need 2 oil and 2 dust seals.





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Old July 12th, 2017, 04:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
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What is the recommendation for seal replacements? I need 2 oil and 2 dust seals.
Having bought aftermarket seals and dust shields for other motorcycles in the past and been unhappy with them, I chose to get OEM parts for my 250. A year later they're still doing what they should be doing. They weren't expensive. Each piece was about $10 from Partzilla. Under $50 for all four, including shipping.

Seal: 92049-1226
Dust shield: 92093-1196

Double check me before ordering.
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Old July 12th, 2017, 09:58 PM   #34
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Having bought aftermarket seals and dust shields for other motorcycles in the past and been unhappy with them, I chose to get OEM parts for my 250. A year later they're still doing what they should be doing. They weren't expensive. Each piece was about $10 from Partzilla. Under $50 for all four, including shipping.

Seal: 92049-1226
Dust shield: 92093-1196

Double check me before ordering.
Just curious TJ. How many miles did you get on your original fork seals? I'll remember to order O.E.M. seals when I need them - thanks.

Bill
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Old July 13th, 2017, 06:00 AM   #35
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I had just bought the bike and put a few hundred miles on it when they started leaking. I'd guess that they had never been changed, and the odometer said something around 16,000 miles. The bike had spent time outdoors, and the dust seal steel under the rubber was badly rusted. I suspect rust flakes and debris probably did the seals in. Luckily the fork tubes were in good condition.
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Old July 13th, 2017, 06:34 AM   #36
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It seems like rust and debris did me in as well. The bike was outside for about a year and a half and only has 8k miles on it. Other than regular maintenance on it, this is the only real issue that Ive encountered. Luckily its my first time working on forks.
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Old July 13th, 2017, 04:02 PM   #37
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Today I had to take the forks apart. Never have before but this build is a great teaching tool. I took everything apart as hard as it was at times and had everything cleaned out and ready for new oil and seals. Might not be an update till next week when all the last parts arrive.
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Old July 15th, 2017, 03:38 PM   #38
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Waiting on a new fork bottom stanchion since mine is messed from a bolt that never came out and then was drilled out improperly. Should be here this week. Bike is up on stands and the Blue Collar kit will be here Mon. Also shopping around some color of vinyl wrap for the tank. Something Ive never done before but this bike is all about first times.

Hoping to mock up the kit, rebuild the forks and put them back on the bike this week.
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Old July 23rd, 2017, 05:24 PM   #39
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Finally was able to cut the frame today. First time Ive totally trashed a bike in this aspect. This officially starts the bobber build. The upcoming days should see more progress

They send you the brackets that tell you exactly were to take the hacksaw to the frame.









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Old July 23rd, 2017, 05:26 PM   #40
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New frame and seat pan. It makes the whole seat sit perfectly flat and level



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Motorcycle Safety Foundation

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