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Old March 27th, 2012, 12:50 PM   #1
swsh23815
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Gas Leaking into oil

Need help assessing the problem.
On my ride to school last week I was running a little late so I was riding a little faster than I normally do. About 5 minutes from school traffic come to a complete stop. After a couple of mile's negotiating the traffic i notice that the rpm's are not right. Normally riding at 70mph the rpm's are right around 8500, now they were at 9500-10000 to go the same speed. Since im running late for my final i just park the bike and head to class. On the way home the rpm's where still a little off but not as bad and as i got closer to home they seemed to be back to normal. When i get home i take a look at the oil gauge and the oil level seemed to jump up from when i checked it in the morning. Also the oil has a pretty good smell of gasoline. The coolant level has'nt changed, thats why i suspect gas. Does anyone know what the issue could be? The bike is a 2012, has 3,500 miles on it. I just changed the oil on it at 3000 miles.

here is a pic of the oil:
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Old March 27th, 2012, 01:21 PM   #2
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While parked, something prevented your float valve(s) from closing all the way and your carb overfilled with gas. When this happens, the gas runs into the intake and down through the cylinders, into the oil. Don't run it again until you get the oil changed and have your carbs looked at.
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Old March 27th, 2012, 02:52 PM   #3
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You may or may not have 2 different problems

Being that your bike is 2012 with 3500 miles on it, it would be rare for the carbs to have a stuck float valve and a stuck petcock. Because the petcock is vacuum operated it to would have to be stuck open for any significant amount of gas to change the oil level. The fuel bowls don't hold that much gas. From the looks of your oil level it appears to be at the max level which is fine.

As far as the smell of gas in the oil, that too can be normal. On occasion you can have a gassy smell in the oil especially right after riding it long distances or riding at high rpms or riding it WOT or using the choke on a cold engine. Since the fuel in a cold engine is sticking to the cylinder walls due to condensation, the mixture is too lean for the engine to start. The choke system will add fuel to the engine to compensate for the fuel that is stuck to the cylinder walls. Once the engine is warmed up, condensation is not a problem, and the choke is not needed. Due to the incomplete vaporization of fuel at slow speeds or the additional fuel required at high speeds, the actual air/fuel ratio is usually a little richer.

After the bike has set a while and cooled down, recheck the smell of the oil, as the tiny amount of gas will have a evaporated. If not drain and change your oil and compare it to that which you removed. If the problem is not resolved, return you bike to the dealer for further maintenance since your bike should still be under warranty.

Your second issue with the rpms may have to due with the IC ignitor and overall heat. This has been a noted problem and pops up on rare occasions.
http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Ignitor_problem
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Old March 27th, 2012, 03:34 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by swsh23815 View Post
When i get home i take a look at the oil gauge and the oil level seemed to jump up from when i checked it in the morning.
Be careful about reading the gauge always with the bike on its wheels and in a perfectly vertical position, and with a cool engine.

Otherwise, you may see great variations in the level.

An improperly adjusted clutch cable may be the cause of the change in rpm's.

Changes in oil viscosity due to temperature or contamination are mostly noted during clutching out and seldom at full engagement.

The fuel petcock is vacuum activated in order to prevent carbs' overflow with engine off.

Not saying that your bike has no problem; just not to be too apprehensive.
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Old March 28th, 2012, 08:03 AM   #5
swsh23815
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After reading the post's on the IC ignitor, i think that is definitely what happened on that day. As far as the oil, maybe I was just paranoid about it after having that issue. Regardless, I am going to change the oil and see if the problem persists.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 03:13 AM   #6
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I always smell gas when I change my oil.

Anyway, the tach variance is likely the infamous and well-known overheating CDI. It seems that MOST of our bikes do it. *shrug* They read higher when the CDI is warm than when it is cool.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 04:08 AM   #7
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Exclamation

your oil looks due for a change anyways :P Its all milky looking like paint
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Old March 29th, 2012, 06:13 AM   #8
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Your oil is gross looking.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 07:14 AM   #9
swsh23815
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The oil is only 600 miles old. That's why I suspected something leaked into it.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 08:26 AM   #10
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There probably is something...someone else has a problem where they did a valve job, and now there oil is a milky yellow color. Might want to look into there thread as well. Could anti-freeze have gotten into your oil?
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Old March 29th, 2012, 11:57 AM   #11
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Worn down float valves will do that. Ask me how I know.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 03:24 PM   #12
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Worn down float valves will do that. Ask me how I know.
how do you know?
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Old March 29th, 2012, 05:17 PM   #13
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how do you know?
I don't.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 09:01 PM   #14
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How does the oil look now? Hard to really tell from the photo but it could just be your oil is frothed with air. Sometimes happens to some oils if run hard. If oil looked fine after sitting for awhile, but the problem presists; change brand of oil.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 09:27 PM   #15
swsh23815
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I have been using the kawasaki brand oil since I got the bike. Most of my riding is 60 mile trips on the freeway too and from school. Would the constant 8500 rpms have any effect on the oil looking like that?
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Old March 29th, 2012, 09:54 PM   #16
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I tried Kawi synetic ONCE,(dealer was out of Amsoil) Didn't like it. Engine was noisey, clutch felt like it was slipping, don't remember if the oil frothed. Have run Amsoil 10-40 motorcylce oil ever since. Motor just seems to run smoother. Might just be me, but I like it. Got good deal on a case, so I'm set for the next 6 oil changes.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 10:03 PM   #17
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Oops, forgot to answer your question. Oil could froth one time and not the next. Can depend on temperature, how hard you run it if the bike wasn't quite warm, lots of little things. That's why I asked what the oil looked like later. Did it look normal in the morning.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:31 AM   #18
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by swsh23815 View Post
Need help assessing the problem.
On my ride to school last week I was running a little late so I was riding a little faster than I normally do. About 5 minutes from school traffic come to a complete stop. After a couple of mile's negotiating the traffic i notice that the rpm's are not right. Normally riding at 70mph the rpm's are right around 8500, now they were at 9500-10000 to go the same speed. Since im running late for my final i just park the bike and head to class. On the way home the rpm's where still a little off but not as bad and as i got closer to home they seemed to be back to normal. When i get home i take a look at the oil gauge and the oil level seemed to jump up from when i checked it in the morning. Also the oil has a pretty good smell of gasoline. The coolant level has'nt changed, thats why i suspect gas. Does anyone know what the issue could be? The bike is a 2012, has 3,500 miles on it. I just changed the oil on it at 3000 miles.

here is a pic of the oil:

my oil looks and smells the same what ended up being wrong with yours, I also have 2012 with rpm issues. Have no idea what's wrong
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:53 AM   #19
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my oil looks and smells the same what ended up being wrong with yours, I also have 2012 with rpm issues. Have no idea what's wrong
Depending on the temp some oil can look cloudy through the sight glass, then be normal looking when warm. If you suspect a lot of gas in your oil you should drain it and inspect it. If there is a significant amount of gas getting in your oil, the oil viscosity will be noticeably thinner than normal, maybe milky in color and smell heavily of gasoline. If this is your issue, you should change your oil ASAP and replace the petcock with a new one, so you won't have to deal with a recurring problem. If your bike is under warranty, make Kawasaki fix right away.

As far as your rpm issue goes, see this thread.
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