What Did You Do to Your Ninjette Today ??

[tfkrocks]

Originally Posted by algs26

Says the person with the wheelie bike.

Lol pretty much nah its not really that bad but I realized that I like sitting upright on a bike more. Going back to the clip ons was weird.

[LittleRedNinjette]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Seriously calipers need to be serviced with every pad change, thus assures the braking system is working perfectly, anything less is irresponsible IMHO.

Write-up available upon request, it's quick and easy enough to do,

what's your personal safety worth?

My boyfriend would not have put the brakes back on the bike if he thought there was an issue... Pretty sure he wants to keep me around.. Though it could be a plot to get the insurance money.

I've never heard of doing this with a pad change though. And the pad that had been on it had 50% left on them. We just upgraded the pads.

[rojoracing53]

Cleaning caliper Pistons is considered preventative maintenance which mean you do it regardless of wether it's currently in need or not. Waiting till you caliper Pistons start to stick then cleaning them is a poor plan. When racing we'd clean the Pistons during every pad change which was once or twice a weekend. In the future just get in the habit of every time you remove you pads wether for inspection or replacement, make it a point to clean and lube your Pistons.

I'm not saying you ****ed up and are going to die, I'm just saying next time get it done the right way.

[LittleRedNinjette]

I will keep it in mind when we change the lines next month. Going with SS lines and was debating a caliper upgrade anyway.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by LittleRedNinjette

I will keep it in mind when we change the lines next month. Going with SS lines and was debating a caliper upgrade anyway.

No need for caliper upgrade, the OEM ones are more than enough to effectively stop the bike, if they are maintained, and using quality brake pads.

The only thing I would suggest is upgrading the rotor to a full floating.

[Ghostt]

Caliper write-up

I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, he's my write-up to help you out. It should fix your initial problem, and keep your calipers in top working order.

For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,*


Front Caliper Service (also rear as well)

Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems.

*Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance.

*Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new.

A short list of the problems and the causes.

Soft lever or lever goes to the bar.

The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc.

*Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched.

Juddering in sync with wheel rotation.

The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat.

Cupped, coned, or warped disc.

Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.

Soft lever 2

The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc.

*To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is.

This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary.

*If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it).


Ok how to prevent all of the above.

When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go.

*Every time you must do these things.

Remove caliper disassemble and clean it.

Clean and re grease the sliding pins.

Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding.

Tools required:
12 mm socket
8mm open end wrench
3” or bigger C clamp
a supply of new bake fluid.
wire brush and or steel wool.

Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on.

Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins)

Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar.

Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one.

Remove both pistons by hand.

Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new.

The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish.

Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it.

The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here.

If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher.

*Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion.

Re assembly

Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers.
Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid.

Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves.

Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows.

Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC.

Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder.

*Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point.

Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out.

Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads.

Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose.

Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever.

Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it.

*After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.*

** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life.


Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here.

Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently.

*Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc

I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT.

No matter what kind of brake fluid you choose, always periodically flush and fill with new fluid.

This is the one I use



https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid



Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade

Venhill Introduction
Greetings everyone!

I wanted to take a moment to introduce you to Venhill...

Venhill manufactures some of the highest quality brake lines and cables you can get. We've been in business since 1971 and currently offer a full range of brake lines for the Ninja 250, first and second generations.

Our website, venhillusa.com, is setup to take orders for any year Ninja 250 as well as many other bikes. You can pick your bike and then customize your kits as you wish. We offer many different colors of hose as well as different finishes and materials for hardware. All of these options can be selected during the purchase process, so you'll be sure to get exactly what you want. You can even add length to hoses if needed.

To get an idea of our reputation, have a look at our eBay feedback.

If you have any questions or comments about Venhill products or brake lines or cables in general, please share them. I'm happy to be a resource for general information about brake lines and cables as well. Technical questions are welcome!

Please take a look at our website and let us know what you think. We just recently did a complete makeover and are interested in feedback. (venhillusa.com)

Have a great day and stay safe,

Chris
Venhill USA

For the detail oriented out there, some interesting things you might want to know about Venhill and our products:

Our factory is ISO 9001-2000 approved, which basically means we have the ability to consistently produce quality products. To qualify for ISO approval your factory and quality control mechanisms are evaluated as to whether your "good" products happen by chance, or if they are a result of good quality control.

All of our hoses are built to DOT/TUV spec and have been certified as such. We submitted hoses to the TUV (German DOT) for testing and only by passing are we allowed to use the TUV symbol on our hoses. Every hose we sell is built to these specifications, even if it is for track or offroad use only. It just makes for a higher quality product.

All of our hoses are hydraulically crimped, not hand crimped, and leak/pressure tested in a water bath. Yes, we immerse every hose we build in a water bath and pressurize it to check for leaks and to verify integrity of the crimps.

Venhill's hose core is authentic DuPont Teflon which is more expensive than generic "PTFE" but is stronger with a smoother inner bore. This is surrounded by 96 strands of braided marine grade stainless wire. 96 strands is more dense than some other braided line brands and the marine grade alloy is a stronger metal, which reduces expansion, the reason rubber hoses feel "spongy". Finally, we coat the braid with a UV-resistant PVC, extruded on during manufacture. This protects the hose as well as body and paint work.

Our hose design uses free-floating swivels, which allow you to loosely install everything before the hoses are tightened into place. This ensures the hose is not forced into a twist or kink when the banjo bolts are tightened. If you're worried about leaks, don't be. Our swivels work on the same premise as every threaded connection on a car or truck.

As you can see, we're sort of obsessed with quality and safety. We look at it this way: If we're asking you to put our brake lines on your bike, you're trusting us with the integrity of your brakes. That's a serious concept and we refuse to compromise when it comes to the integrity of your brakes.

I have these stainless steel lines on my Ninjette, and so far, some good, I recommend getting the stainless steel banjo bolts, I noticed my chrome ones have started to rust slightly, a good excuse for me to upgrade to titanium

On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike.

So you have made the decision that your OEM rubber lines need to be changed.

So why choose Spiegler Brake Lines?

A: Strength

That’s the short answer. But it doesn’t tell the whole story.

Spiegler Brake Lines strength comes from our innovation and research, materials and construction, knowledge and experience, service and support.

At Spiegler, we believe that the more you know about what we put into our products, the better you’ll be able to answer that question yourself.


That’s the short version; now let’s cover this topic more in depth.

Most OEM manufacturer recommend that you replace your rubber brake lines every 2 to 3 years. Why do the OEM’s recommend this? Over time OEM rubber lines deteriorate rapidly due to expansion and UV damage. This leads to increased braking distances and possible failure.

At Spiegler, our brake lines are made of only the finest materials available.

Outside casings are made of tightly woven stainless steel braiding that exceeds our competitors
The inside is made with DuPont’s PTFE-Teflon which eliminates expansion and adds durability
Crimp sleeves are made from stainless steel; competitors are using mostly carbon steel
Unique patented adjustable banjo fittings eliminate line twist during installation.
30% weight savings in comparison to other stainless steel braided brake lines
DOT approved
Lifetime warranty
117 color combinations possible which allows customers to personalize their bikes
We can build your lines to any specifications for custom applications
All brake line kits come ready for install

For more information on why you should choose Spiegler Brake Lines, you can view the following pages for a more detailed look into Spiegler brake lines.

When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER.

Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH.

EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM.

On my 500 I have Spiegler line

http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html

On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill

http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html

With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change.

look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/

And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads

That should answer any questions you might have.

And of course my response about the magic of SS lines. Don't get me wrong I have them as well, but I used them as replacements for old OEM ones that needed replacing anyway, not to gain performance.



All this BS about SS lines is usually caused by poor caliper/disc condition. the brake system is notorious for binding slider pins that warp the disc. this warp or coning of the disc is what causes the long travel of the lever as the disc must be bent straight before it can be clamped properly for hard braking.
This longer travel is caused by the disc retiring to it coned condition which pushes the pucks back too far into the caliper.
You must get a flat disc and replace the pads after to clean and re lube the slider pins. Then bed in the new pads to get a good brake. The SS line alone will do little or nothing.

[allanoue]

put air in the rear tire

[JohnnyBravo]

Squirted it with water

[tgold]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Caliper write-up

I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, he's my write-up to help you out. It should fix your initial problem, and keep your calipers in top working order.






I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT.

No matter what kind of brake fluid you choose, always periodically flush and fill with new fluid.

This is the one I use



https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid



Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade




I have these stainless steel lines on my Ninjette, and so far, some good, I recommend getting the stainless steel banjo bolts, I noticed my chrome ones have started to rust slightly, a good excuse for me to upgrade to titanium

On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike.




When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER.

Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH.

EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM.

On my 500 I have Spiegler line

http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html

On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill

http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html

With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change.

look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/

And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads

That should answer any questions you might have.

And of course my response about the magic of SS lines. Don't get me wrong I have them as well, but I used them as replacements for old OEM ones that needed replacing anyway, not to gain performance.



All this BS about SS lines is usually caused by poor caliper/disc condition. the brake system is notorious for binding slider pins that warp the disc. this warp or coning of the disc is what causes the long travel of the lever as the disc must be bent straight before it can be clamped properly for hard braking.
This longer travel is caused by the disc retiring to it coned condition which pushes the pucks back too far into the caliper.
You must get a flat disc and replace the pads after to clean and re lube the slider pins. Then bed in the new pads to get a good brake. The SS line alone will do little or nothing.

You have very good information here. I will say this though: The real benefit of SS lines is not (as many believe) that your brakes are more powerful. The benefit is that you get better feel because the SS lines don't expand as much as the rubber ones do when brake pressure is applied. I suspect that most of the improvement that people feel when switching to SS lines is because installing them means that they have to bleed the brakes and a proper bleeding is just what the brakes may have needed before they ever installed the new lines.

[Ghostt]

Agreed, also the simple fact the OEM ones are way past there services life, after all Kawasaki recommends changing those after 2 years IIRC.

I know the ones on my 98 we're never changed, they showed signs of needing to be replaced for sure.


Even SS lines have a service life, there not a forever part.

[Twisthem488]

I installed the new rivet link on my chain. Super paranoid about it since there is very little visual difference from not enough to to much. I need to buy a battery for my calipers so I can measure the head of the pins. That means I also need to find some literature on how big they should be post peening :\ its just the regular 520 Oring type from Cycle gear. Anyone know? I took it around the block slowly. It squeaked and felt weird when I down shifted, like maybe the chain was buckling. I'm going to measure it all and redo my chain slack/wheel alignment before I hop on it again.

[Tim Fox]

Originally Posted by KURT

I started this thread, on another Ninja forum, and it's been pretty popular.


Killed a dove with it! Er... actually killed it with the padded shoulder of my jacket. The wife and I rode up to Wickenburg for breakfast. I had just cranked the throttle, coming out of a turn, when the flying rat nailed me. He did not survive.

She has put about 200 miles, on her new BT-003's, and loves them. ( Smoother ride, less stress.)

Have you ever stopped at Anita's visits in Wickenberg? My favorite mexican restaurant of all time!

[Ghostt]

@Twisthem488

Standard 520 chain, I think it's 106 links? But I could be wrong.

[Twisthem488]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

@Twisthem488

Standard 520 chain, I think it's 106 links? But I could be wrong.

Yeah I have a 520x106 chain, the measurement I'm really looking for the diameter of the pins after riveting them.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Twisthem488

Yeah I have a 520x106 chain, the measurement I'm really looking for the diameter of the pins after riveting them.

Sorry, it's been too long ago, I've been using clips on the Ninjette, and my EX500.

Maybe another member has the answers you seek.

[ZeroGravity360]

Last night I literally took a steak knife and cut off the bottom on the fender lol. Its horrid but the place hides it

[tgold]

Originally Posted by Twisthem488

I installed the new rivet link on my chain. Super paranoid about it since there is very little visual difference from not enough to to much. I need to buy a battery for my calipers so I can measure the head of the pins. That means I also need to find some literature on how big they should be post peening :\ its just the regular 520 Oring type from Cycle gear. Anyone know? I took it around the block slowly. It squeaked and felt weird when I down shifted, like maybe the chain was buckling. I'm going to measure it all and redo my chain slack/wheel alignment before I hop on it again.

I didn't find anything on Cycle Gear's website regarding rivet head diameter. Did you have a chain riveting tool? The instructions are pretty important and doing it just enough that you get the rivet head diameter right yet don't cause the chain to bind is very important. If Cycle Gear doesn't have that info available, I would not use the chain. I'd send it back. Companies like DID publish that information on their websites, but it can be hard to find.

This is from a DID pdf although I can't say that it applies to your chain:

16a. FLARE DIMENSIONS
0.213” to 0.220”.................520V
0.217” to 0.228”.................525V
0.217” to 0.228”.................530V
0.217” to 0.228”.................532ZLV
0.217” to 0.228”.................520ERV3
0.217” to 0.228”.................520ZVM2
0.217” to 0.228”.................525ZVM2
0.217” to 0.228”.................530ZVM2
0.217” to 0.228”.................520ZVM-X
0.217” to 0.228”.................520VX2
0.217” to 0.228”.................520VM
0.217” to 0.228”.................525VM2
0.217” to 0.228”.................530VM
0.217” to 0.228”.................520ATV
0.217” to 0.228”.................520VT2
0.217” to 0.228”.................520NZ
0.217” to 0.228”.................525NZ
0.217” to 0.228”.................530NZ
0.217” to 0.228”.................520DZ2
0.217” to 0.228”.................520MX
0.217” to 0.228”.................520ERT2
0.224” to 0.236”.................*525ZVM-X, 530ZVM-X, 525VX & 530VX

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

a steak knife

Ohhhh mannnnn. @csmith12, I think we have a new badge that needs made.

"Steak dinner"

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Ohhhh mannnnn. @csmith12, I think we have a new badge that needs made.

"Steak dinner"

its all I had XD

[snot]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

its all I had XD

Future reference... Only do a job if you have the correct tools.

Now, sand the rest down to make it look nice.

[NevadaWolf]

Went from this:





To this:

[subxero]

finally got a new rear tire after picking up a nail a few weeks ago. Got it mounted and balanced and back on the bike. Should be able to ride tomorrow

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by snot

Future reference... Only do a job if you have the correct tools.

Now, sand the rest down to make it look nice.

A knife is still a knife weather it's used for food or it's an expensive electric one. Wasn't going to go out a buy a tool for a 2 minute job.

[tfkrocks]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

A knife is still a knife weather it's used for food or it's an expensive electric one. Wasn't going to go out a buy a tool for a 2 minute job.

But that's how you build up a collection of tools to use later on. If you ever have the need for something like that in the future, it'll be there waiting for you.

[subxero]

^ this exactly

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

To this:

Shiny. What tires are those?

[NevadaWolf]

Originally Posted by mgentz

Shiny. What tires are those?

IRC Road Winners.

[choneofakind]

Ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!

Do a Rojo and use the road wiener rear and something better up front!

EDIT: Road Wiener!

[Yarhj]

Last Friday my bike decided that it didn't want to run under 3K RPM, so getting home from work was like a really boring version of Speed.

On Saturday I pulled the carburetors off, cleaned them thoroughly, bench-synced them, and threw them back on the bike. Runs like new.

[NevadaWolf]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!

Do a Rojo and use the road wiener rear and something better up front!

I've got short-timers disease and wanted something cheap and simple. So back to stockers.

[snot]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

A knife is still a knife weather it's used for food or it's an expensive electric one. Wasn't going to go out a buy a tool for a 2 minute job.

There is a difference. A steak knife is meant for food, a utility knife is for cutting other types of materials (depending on blade material).

A cutoff wheel on a drill would also make a cleaner cut. Using the wrong tools can cause injuries as well.

[wendyjboss]

My phone hates me ... deleting a duplicate post ... sry

[wendyjboss]

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

I've got short-timers disease and wanted something cheap and simple. So back to stockers.

I put OEMs on mine at the recommendation of my moto. service shop. I was so impressed by the improvement in handling that I would never put anything else on it. The bike came with some type of sport tire, also from Dunlop which I thought in my newbiness were the correct t,ires but I know the difference now. Oh .... I am talking about the pregens only and mine took Dunlop 630s(model num?)

[CaliGrrl]

I learned that I can, in fact, hit the rear brake hard enough to start to cut it loose and how it feels. Luckily, I knew what it was doing and could back it off and keep control. I don't think I like that feeling much, though.

[BDfromBC]

Guys I'm back and better than ever... I picked up a 2015 ninja 300 special edition (blue and black) ABS model... For 3000 today. 3000 Canadian!! What a steal,

Only 6700km, one owner bike... He got a 600 so he sold this bike, I have his receipt he just finished paying 7300 after financing taxes dealer fees!

It's locked in the garage as my last bike was stolen... I'll get some pics Tomorow, I promise!

[CaliGrrl]

Congrats on the new bike!

[Brother Michigan]

I'm more than a little jealous that you guys up there in Canuckistan got the blue one!

[BDfromBC]

Originally Posted by Brother Michigan

I'm more than a little jealous that you guys up there in Canuckistan got the blue one!

image.jpg you mean like this and how could I say no... ABS SE and only about 2230 USD.... 2230... Like 09/10 250r price... Haha I wish everyone could get steals like this 🤔😁😁 (as you can tell I'm excited to be back on 2 wheels!!)

[LittleRedNinjette]

Tried installing the P2 Power Tips in my pipes and realized i need a spacer... Unless i want to hear metal rattling around...

*goes off to find the part*

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by LittleRedNinjette

Tried installing the P2 Power Tips in my pipes and realized i need a spacer... Unless i want to hear metal rattling around...

*goes off to find the part*

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that to you. I've got one spare one that never got used. Silly Two Brothers decided to only ever send me one, so I had to get creative with a washer instead of their given spacer.

long story short, I think I have one that's never been used laying around the house somewhere. Just let me know.