August 5th, 2014, 09:07 AM | #1 |
james250ninjette.newbie
Name: james
Location: cherry hill, nj
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 1986 ninja 250 Posts: 276
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1986 ninja 250
hi everyone just got my new bike 86 ninja 250
want too change oil what weight should I use only 6700 original miles can I use a k-n- oil filter for it |
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August 5th, 2014, 10:26 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
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Nope; this area is inclusive of the somewhat unique 86-87 models.
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August 5th, 2014, 10:52 AM | #4 |
james250ninjette.newbie
Name: james
Location: cherry hill, nj
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 1986 ninja 250 Posts: 276
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Well gonna use 10 w40, I see. A lot of people using trustworthy pre gen...should be ok
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August 5th, 2014, 02:18 PM | #5 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Andrew
Location: texas
Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): 07 ninja 250 Posts: 17
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Quote:
- check and adjust your valves on any new used ninja 250 purchase. there is a write up in the how to section |
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August 5th, 2014, 04:02 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Paul
Location: UK
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250, Yamaha RS200 (classic) Posts: A lot.
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From across the pond Her majesty's ninjette inspectors require photographic documentation at your earliest convenience.
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August 5th, 2014, 04:13 PM | #7 |
Certified looney toon
Name: Teri
Location: 39°52'40.7"N 118°23'53.8"W (Northern NV)
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 102k+ miles -- 2014 CB500X, 42k+ miles Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 16
MOTM Jul '13, Jul '14
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Her majesty's inspectors will just have to wait their turn. Uncle Sam wants pictures first.
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<-- Linky Hey Unregistered! The code [you] shows the username currently logged in. IBA # 56020 AMA # 521481 Fun Rides! ][ My Videos ][ My Gear Hold yourself to the same rules you expect others to follow. |
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August 5th, 2014, 07:32 PM | #8 |
ran when parked
Name: Katie
Location: DC/MD
Join Date: Aug 2013 Motorcycle(s): Freeride 250R, KLX250SF, mopeds Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Sep '17, Dec '14
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^Both of you go to the Pictures section, he has a ton of pics of this bike there!
Doesn't matter that much what type you use as long as you change it frequently. 10w40 is fine, I've used Valvoline and Mobil 1 and Repsol and Castrol and Rotella... |
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August 6th, 2014, 11:20 AM | #9 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Paul
Location: UK
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250, Yamaha RS200 (classic) Posts: A lot.
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Neat, just the kind of bike I'd expect to see outside a Portuguese beach cafe leaned on by a well groomed young man with a cigarette.
(If that imagery makes sense to people who haven't been to Portugal? ) |
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August 22nd, 2014, 11:58 AM | #10 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Not unless it's motorcycle-specific. The diesel stuff we often use is no 10w40 and the car 10w40 synths all have friction modifiers added that are bad for the wet clutch.
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August 22nd, 2014, 12:19 PM | #11 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Quote:
Rotella T is a 15W-40, so I think that's what you are getting at. A 15W conventional is only a good choice if the temperatures are always above 50 degrees when you start-up. If you start in lower temps a 10W (minimum) or 5W (better) synthetic provides much better lubrication. Diesel oils like Rotella and Delvac are fine for a cycle. Auto oils like Syntec or Platinum are not, BUT, it's not just an issue of Friction Modifiers. Friction Modifiers are not added to auto oils in the 40-grade range and above (usually 10W-40) - just 30-grade and below. The real issue for cycle use is the low levels of ZDDP that are mandated for current auto oil. ZDDP is an additive that protects the valvetrain from damage before adequate oil arrives - like starts. Current auto engines get around that with roller rockers and lifters. Cycle engines (except the CBR250R) use solid (non-roller) valvetrain components that need higher levels of ZDDP to prevent damage. Diesel oils are not required to have the same low levels as auto oils, so they have adequate amounts of ZDDP for a typical cycle engine, and are a good low cost alternative. Cycle specific oils are the best choice, and usually have even more ZDDP, but for all but the most extreme conditions a quality diesel oil will be more than adequate. |
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August 22nd, 2014, 12:49 PM | #12 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Last futzed with by CZroe; August 22nd, 2014 at 02:09 PM. |
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August 22nd, 2014, 02:00 PM | #13 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Quote:
It's at the bottom of the API "donut" - I know - but look at any 40-grade auto oil. It doesn't have the "Energy Conserving" (Friction Modifiers) like the 30s do. My point is that even though they (auto 40-grade oils) don't have Modifiers, they still are not a good choice for a cycle engine. People concentrate on the Modifiers part, but there are more important reasons NOT to use it (auto oil.) |
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August 22nd, 2014, 02:08 PM | #14 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Thanks for getting the actual wording for me. I searched for an embarrassingly long time and couldn't find it. |
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August 22nd, 2014, 07:16 PM | #15 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Quote:
Synthetic or not, only regular auto oils that are 30-grade and under (10W-30, 5W-30, etc) have Friction Modifiers and are rated as "Energy Conserving" at the bottom of the API donut on the back of the bottle. Regular auto oils that are 40-grade (10W-40, 5W-40) and above don't have them. You can tell because the bottom of the API donut doesn't say "Energy Conserving". If you don't believe me (I don't think you do), compare bottles of regular (not the High Mileage, Racing, or 0W) Mobil 1 5W-30 and 10W-40 or any other 30 and 40-grade regular or synthetic auto oils of the same brand. That's just for clarification. It's never a good idea to run any regular auto oil in cycle engines. Run diesel oil (any type) and you are safe. |
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August 22nd, 2014, 08:07 PM | #16 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Cheap 10w40 full synthetic for normal cars without the API Energy Conserving mark was considered unobtanium last I checked. You had to pay for specialty oil (motorcycle-specific) or diesel engine oil. |
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August 4th, 2017, 06:56 PM | #17 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: David
Location: kent
Join Date: Jul 2017 Motorcycle(s): ninja250 Posts: 6
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new project
shes ready to ride 1987
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September 5th, 2017, 07:40 AM | #18 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jon
Location: Santa Rosa
Join Date: Nov 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R, 1986 Ninja 250R (x2) '06 ZX6R 636 Posts: 88
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Oils?
I useRotella T-6 in my '86 and '08 250r as well as in my '06 636 and never an issue!
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
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