September 24th, 2012, 04:51 PM | #241 | |
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I was with Alex.S and Jiggles last night and they had sex....the video is on utube. :-) |
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August 2nd, 2015, 08:44 AM | #242 | |
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As for the mix screws, I'm betting this is part of why you're getting black plugs. Plug checks are really only valid if you're able to cut the engine immediately after operating at the throttle position and rpm range in question. Ergo, if you want to test the mains, you need to hit the kill switch at wot and 11,000+ and immediately pull the plug. As you can see this is not convenient for those of us without dyno access. Anyhow, with no snorkel and a drop in filter, start the mix screws at 2.5 turns and adjust as necessary to get a responsive throttle. Do not change the mix screws significantly to help start up. This is what the choke is for. Needing choke or not needing choke at start up is not a good measure of your bikes health. Choke at start up for a short period is normal and totally fine. To have a smooth start up that helps the engine start easily and warm up quickly, every vehicle I know of has some way to richen the mixture and/or raise the idle while cold. So it's totally fine to use a little choke to start, adjust it back so the bike idles at 2000-2500 rpm or so until the throttle response is normal, then ride off and turn the choke down as you go. If your choke kills the bike instead of raising the idle, I'd bet your mix screws are set too rich. Start at 2.5 turns and go in 1/8 turn increments as needed. If you need less than 2 turns or more than 3, change idle jet sizes to suit. Remember that idle mixture is in charge for small throttle openings, needles are in charge of the mid range, and the main jet is in charge for large throttle openings. If you can isolate when the bike feels funny, you can figure out which part needs adjusted and do it once and save yourself the hassle of working on the wrong part. |
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August 8th, 2015, 08:21 PM | #243 |
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Thank you for your wonderful advice.
I will keep your suggestions in mind. All the best! |
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March 5th, 2016, 12:31 PM | #244 |
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So I have Factory Pro kit, M4 full system. K&N filter and KLEEN delete. I took it for a test ride today before track day tomorrow. I am 112 mains and 3rd clip position. I notice a stumble at 5-6k RPM. would washers on the needle help solve this?
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March 5th, 2016, 02:37 PM | #245 |
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Added 1 washer below and 2 above and fixed the issue.
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April 16th, 2016, 10:11 AM | #246 |
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YEAR: 2009
INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: air box removed. K&N R-0990 Filter EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: stock. Kleen air system removed JET KIT OR STOCK? stock BRAND OF JET KIT? JetsRus MAIN JET: stock. ~105? NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: 2 washers MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: 3 turns ELEVATION: 614' MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR BIKE’S JETTING SETUP: Rumor has it the bike ran before purchase. Hit the carb with cleaner and a toothbrush. Doesn't like starting without gogo juice/starting fluid. Bikes idle jumps up to around 5000 upon start-up. Somewhat idles at 1300. Bike seems real touchy with this set-up. Am able to rev it up for a bit. Unfortunately, the bike is in my basement/cave dwelling so running it for too long stinks up my whole crib. I'll try to apply a video to this post. EDIT: Important life lesson learned. NEVER PUT A BIKE INTO GEAR WHEN FRONT BRAKE IS NOT HOOKED UP. Might as well get the noob lay down out of the way. Was able to get the bike to idle. Set-up seems to be doing okay when sitting still.
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"Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." Last futzed with by UFOmoplata; April 16th, 2016 at 11:11 AM. Reason: quick update |
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April 16th, 2016, 12:13 PM | #247 | |
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Second off, sorry to heard about the drop. Third off, you can't tell anything about jetting unless the bike is warmed up, so you will probably want to take the bike outside. And finally, did you run pressurized air and then carb cleaner through all the passageways? If not your carbs are likely dirty and any jetting would just be spinning around in circles.
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April 17th, 2016, 09:35 PM | #248 |
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Stock 98 jets or 105?
Since you removed the airbox, your main jets are too small for the K&N pod filter. Try 108,110, 112. Your pilot jet might still be clogged, giving you the issues. Did you remove it, and clean with a wire. Very common issue. Wish you best of luck. |
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April 18th, 2016, 05:33 AM | #249 | |
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Quote:
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"Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." |
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April 18th, 2016, 06:45 AM | #250 |
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These guys have everything. Call them up and tell them what jets you need for what carburetor.
http://www.sudco.com/index.html
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April 18th, 2016, 06:51 AM | #251 | |
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Quote:
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Because Unregistered sucks at riding. |
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April 18th, 2016, 08:23 AM | #252 |
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I should clarify. I have 108 main jets from JetsRus, just can't locate them on the carbs themselves.
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"Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." |
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April 18th, 2016, 08:25 AM | #253 |
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Take the carbs and turn them upside down. Take the fuel bowls off. (4 screws one on each corner per bowl) Then you will see a round main jet screwed into a fuel atomizer tube screwed into the carb. Hold the tube with a 8mm wrench and unscrew the main jet with a large flathead.
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May 11th, 2016, 10:11 PM | #254 |
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Eating fuel, should I switch to a smaller K&N Filter?
I'm running 120 Main jet with no issues, and feel I can go even higher.
I have the 6 Inch Uni Pod filters, but it seems to be using a ton of fuel. Wondering if it's worth switching to the smaller K&N R-0990, would it give me the same power and save me fuel? Most people I've read are using 110/112 Keihin Main Jets with the K&N filter. How's my specs; Testing at +15C/59F to 20C/68F YEAR: 2009 250R INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: Kleen air delete. Uni filter Dual Foam 6 inch UP6200ST with PVC pipe as intake runner. The Pod filters are about 1 inch away from the battery box. I wanted to make sure the back of the pod filter airflow was not blocked by the battery box. The bracket back/under the gas tank with the four bolts, I had to grind down, because it had tabs for the old airbox, and was pinching my 6 inch pod filters EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: Stock JET KIT: Dyno Jet BRAND OF JET KIT: Dyno Jet Stage 3 #2393 MAIN JET: DJ114/Keihin 120 PILOT JET: Stock #40 NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: 3 1/3 DJ needles with clips at the 3 position with 3 washers on top, and 1 washer under clip, which would make it needle position 3 1/3. Previously had it on 4th position but when it got warmer mid range bogged.. MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: 1.25 turns out. ELEVATION: 75-646 feet. Temperature: +15C/59F to 20C/68F MISCELLANESOUS INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR BIKE’S JETTING SETUP: Installed block off plate, Removed Air injection into exhaust to get rid of backfiring. Had DJ112/Keihin 117 and Plugs were white at WOT. Switch to DJ114/Keihin 120 Main jet and #40 Pilot Jet. Bike pulls a tiny bit harder than previous. Might Try A DJ116/Keihin 122.5 to see what happens. |
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May 14th, 2016, 11:16 PM | #255 |
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Think I figured it out.
Bike was weaker and not too great at 25C/77F with a DJ114/Keihin 120 jet Running rich. Bike was happier with a DJ112/Keihin 117 going to have to reduce my mainjet back down 1 size. |
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September 26th, 2017, 12:52 AM | #256 |
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Do these numbers from this off brand match up?
https://www.amazon.com/QUIOSS-Carbur...N+CVK+30&psc=1 |
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September 26th, 2017, 04:48 AM | #257 |
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The numbers match, but the picture is wrong.
The kit could be for another type of carb but not the Ninja 250. See the picture I posted but ignore the the collar in it, since your carb already has it. |
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