October 28th, 2010, 08:53 AM | #1 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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tach/speedo not reading right
I searched thru some threads and It doesn't really sound like a CDI issue, but here's what's going on:
it's been cold lately, 50's in the morning and evenings. Bike starts up with no problems, I idle it for 5 minutes or so before driving, start up idle is around 3k for 2-3 minutes, then I turn off the choke and let it idle normally. Bike has 5900 miles on it currently. On the freeway, I'm seeing the tach at 7500RPM at 65MPH. When it was warmer, I was used to seeing 8500RPM at 65MPH. currently, sometimes during the afternoon when it's around 65-70, it will read normally. During the last month when it was warm, in the 80's, it read consistently 8500RPM at 65MPH. The bike has a dynojet kit on it and a full yoshi exhaust (both by previous owner). Is this just the way the bike is, or is there something wrong? It doesn't seem as if performance has been affected at all. The bike pulls normally. I know the service interval is at 7500, but should I just have it done sooner? |
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October 28th, 2010, 09:03 AM | #2 |
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To me it still sounds like a CDI issue. If there is no power loss then I would not worry about it,
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October 28th, 2010, 09:10 AM | #3 |
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50 MPH should be roughly 6000 RPM when cold, warm, or hot. More than that, I would say it's the CDI. I recently replaced my front tire with the BT-016 (OEM size) and my speedo still reads 50 MPH at 6K with OEM sprockets. When the original CDI was installed, the RPM would vary from 6K-7.5K at 50.
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October 28th, 2010, 09:33 AM | #4 |
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CDI. If it's just a display problem, I wouldn't generally worry about it.
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October 28th, 2010, 09:49 AM | #5 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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It sounds like it is normal now, whereas in the warmer weather the CDI was giving false readings.
Posted via Mobile Device |
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October 28th, 2010, 10:38 AM | #6 | |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
So if I replace the CDI with a sportisi one, will the display be corrected? |
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October 28th, 2010, 10:50 AM | #7 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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so what makes the CDI so temp sensitive?
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October 28th, 2010, 12:07 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org dude
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Crap parts.
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October 28th, 2010, 12:27 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
As for an iPhone app... I used "speedometer." Works great!
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October 28th, 2010, 12:33 PM | #10 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
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Great. I'll put it on the "To Buy" list. I checked out that app, but it doesn't say that it records top speed. I don't have any way to mount my iphone while riding, so it would just sit in my pocket. Can you recommend any other apps?
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October 28th, 2010, 12:45 PM | #11 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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Just remembered my little brother has a navigon app that I can use.
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October 28th, 2010, 12:48 PM | #12 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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There are aftermarket CDIs?
Posted via Mobile Device |
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October 28th, 2010, 12:54 PM | #13 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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yep. Sportisi sells the BRT-TIS in programmable or non-programmable units.
Link to original page on YouTube. |
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October 28th, 2010, 01:02 PM | #14 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
Location: Pensacola
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October 29th, 2010, 04:42 AM | #15 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Posts: 771
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Oooh wow. And that will fix the tach (CDI overheating) issue?
Also, how are the stock maps set? Is the "Map 1" set with completely stock settings, with the second set with a degree or two of advance? If so, how noticable is it, and what octane is required to run this? I am very interested . |
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October 29th, 2010, 05:05 AM | #16 | |
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Quote:
http://www.sportisimoto-usa.com/ignition.php
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October 29th, 2010, 05:47 AM | #17 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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Yeah, I found that page (web link is pasted in the youtube video , but it doesn't answer the questions I asked. The video says when he programmed his engine to add 1 degree of advance at I think 9000RPM, and then 2 degrees at like 11 or 12k, he had to add an octane booster (which means very little, really). But, that does not specify whether or not their 1st map is the same as stock, or how much the 2nd map advances, or even what exact octane was required for his tune.
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October 29th, 2010, 06:31 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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October 29th, 2010, 06:32 AM | #19 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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Oh hell, I don't know why I didn't think to search :P . Thanks for the reminder .
This is getting exciting!
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Factory Pro Jet Kit, K&N R-0990 Pod Filter, Sportisi VR Black Exhaust, BRT TIS Ignition, White Paint, and 16/41 Sprockets. Soon: Maybe a 37T Rear Sprocket if I get things running like I'd hoped. |
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October 29th, 2010, 06:43 AM | #20 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...hlight=brt+set
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October 29th, 2010, 08:06 AM | #21 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
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Wow. It fixes the stupid tach issue and gives better performance. I'm down with that. I need to sell some stuff for money tho. Can't spend more money on the CC.
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October 29th, 2010, 08:48 AM | #22 |
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^^^You can always follow kkim and me and retrofit an '88-94 CDI! Price all depends on how good you search eBay!
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October 29th, 2010, 09:01 AM | #23 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Thanks, but I'd rather not retrofit. It's not the wiring or anything that bothers me. I just don't like the idea of installing old/used parts on the ninja unless I really have to. It also gives me the advantage of making a little more HP. It's a win win (except for the ye olde wallet).
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October 29th, 2010, 01:58 PM | #24 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J.G.
Location: Austin
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Doing the retro-fit is a good idea if it just the tach issue that concerns you. I think the gains in performance are about the same on the "butt dyno". The older ones seem to be a better quality, so it would not be adding an inferior part to a newer bike. A retro-fit and jet kit (or shimming) would be the best bang for buck combination.
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October 29th, 2010, 05:44 PM | #25 |
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On that same note, what is a fairly good price for a 88-94 CDI? And what about the 94+ CDI's? Are they of cheaper quality as well?
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October 29th, 2010, 07:43 PM | #26 |
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there is a newer BRT model out now,
i haven't seen it in person, nor asked what improvements it has over the other BRT, just know its available. haven't asked the price either, since im gonna be annoyed i have the older BRT now, hahaha... from the box, the remote for the cdi looks different, i think ive seen a similar remote for another bike that was being tuned at sportisi, it has a dot matrix screen, rather than just the numerical thing. so its possible to read texts and stuff on the screen. reminded me of the old school game boy,
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October 30th, 2010, 03:34 PM | #27 |
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Name: Sam
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No knowledge of '94+. As for price, you may find the '88 from $25-100+. You need to remember that you will also need a wiring harness from the same range.
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October 30th, 2010, 05:19 PM | #28 | |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Quote:
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October 30th, 2010, 10:32 PM | #29 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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October 31st, 2010, 01:46 AM | #30 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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October 31st, 2010, 09:40 AM | #31 | |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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October 31st, 2010, 01:12 PM | #32 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J.G.
Location: Austin
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I have one - it idles around 2000 RPMs instead of the old 1500 RPMs - sometimes it hangs at 2300 RPMs for a time before dropping to 2000 RPMs. But my bike is bone stock except for the BRT Tis.
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October 31st, 2010, 06:16 PM | #33 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: J
Location: Oklahoma
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Adjust your idle down. If timing is advanced across the board, the idle will be higher for the same amount of fuel and air burned.
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Factory Pro Jet Kit, K&N R-0990 Pod Filter, Sportisi VR Black Exhaust, BRT TIS Ignition, White Paint, and 16/41 Sprockets. Soon: Maybe a 37T Rear Sprocket if I get things running like I'd hoped. |
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October 31st, 2010, 06:29 PM | #34 | |
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Quote:
when i try to tweak the idle rpm, i cant get it to idle at the 1500 that i used to have it set to. it either idles high at 2000~ rpm, or if i adjust it a micro-fraction, it drops down to 1000~1200. ive tried fiddling about with it on multiple occasions, but it just doesnt stick to the 1500 that i want... so ive gone with the 1000~1200 idle rpm. it doesnt have any issues pulling out into 1st, i have a fair few mods, and the bike is probably running rich enough in the lower range with the #40 pilot jets, that the bike doesn't stall with the lower idle rev. besides that, and the kickstand issue, the BRT doesnt seem to have any other issues, the RPM indicator is always accurate, and the bike pulls nicely when i want it to. lately a lot of my cruising seems to be around 4000~7500 rpm these days. i don't red line the bike as much as i used to when i first got her, lol... i think its because i have improved the lower/mid range enough to make it adequate to drive in that rpm range now compared to when the bike was bone stock. also lets me gun the bike if i need to
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Kawasaki Z250, Bored up to 300cc with 12.8 CR, 41hp at wheel 27nm torque, Two bros full exhaust with DB killer Dynojet Power Commander V, KnN Open filter, intake and exhaust ported, Puig Windshield |
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