Do I have everything needed for oil change?

Jalequin · June 3rd, 2017, 01:29 AM

HI!

Do I have all needed parts to change my oil and filter? I don't know if the washer is correct. I'd like to buy whatever equivalent that AutoParts sells.

I already have lots of sockets of other brands that should fit the wrench and already have non-torque wrenches to loosen the bolts.

I've never changed oil myself; this is a step up from changing brake fluid 2 months ago. I already paid a shop one for and they added to much oil.
The site says that filter won't fit, but I think that's incorrect; it is the correct filter. I'm currently using the CH6012 which AutoParts thinks also doesn't fit.

adouglas · June 3rd, 2017, 03:36 AM

Good for you for doing this right from the get-go. Too many people try to tackle the job with a pair of vise-grips and learn some hard lessons.

1/2" torque wrench is too big and won't be useful long-term. Check the torque range on it. The only thing I ever use a 1/2" drive torque wrench on is axle bolts... Since you're acquiring tools, consider getting a 1/4" drive wrench that goes up to about 20 ft-lbs (240 in-lbs) and a 3/8 that goes up to about 70-75 ft-lbs. The upper range of one will overlap the lower end of the other. (Torque wrenches are more accurate in the middle of the setting range.) That will handle just about every bolt you'll ever encounter, except the biggest ones.

IMPORTANT NOTE: When you're done with the torque wrench, re-set it to minimum torque for storage. If you don't the spring in it will take a set and it'll be inaccurate forevermore. I learned this the hard way about 30 years ago. I still use that wrench... but now I know to set it a couple of pounds high.

You need a drain pan, and a container for the old oil. And a funnel to refill without spilling. And a big box of shop rags, because you're going to spill anyway.

Useful but not necessary: A magnetic retriever, because the drain bolt often slips out of your fingers and winds up in the drain pan. (See box of shop towels above...)

Also useful but not necessary: A big piece of cardboard or (better) a foam mat to kneel/lie on.

I think but would not swear that the crush washer is okay. If it's not, don't panic... you can flip the old one and reuse it at least once if not more than that. A lot of people do. Having seen it, you'll then know what to get.

Get the oil hot before draining.

Remove the filler cap before the plug to speed draining.

Allow time for it to drain adequately. Once it gets to the occasional drip you're okay.

Smear all gaskets with oil so they'll seal properly. OK to use used oil for this.

Pay attention to the order of parts in the filter housing when you take it apart. Its possible to put it back together incorrectly.

There's more to be said for spin-on type filters, but not applicable here.

MrAtom · June 3rd, 2017, 04:58 AM

Fram Toughguard (or whatever they call it) CH6012 is what I use and is the correct size filter, sold at AutoZone, if that's the one you want to use. That K&N filter is also good to go!

Also, the filter and drain plug are 17mm. Don't use any other size or you risk rounding off the bolt.

And, if you've never used or owned a torque wrench before, use it first on something else. Also, don't be surprised if the handle just gives a tiny click instead of a big click (you might not even hear it at lower torque values, and only be able to feel it. It can be very subtle. Don't keep wrenching on it at this point or you'll break it).

It's also not a good idea to use your torque wrench as a ratchet.

Also, keep your torque wrench stored separately from other tools to keep it in calibration (or as close to) calibration as possible, store it in a place it doesn't vibrate a lot (ex: not in a car), on the lowest torque rating, and in its hard case (should be included with purchase).

Here's a pretty good write-up on the subject:

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Oil_Change_Procedure

Jalequin · June 3rd, 2017, 05:43 PM

I've finished replacing everything except oil. I have a doubt that I think I didn't apply enough torque when re-assembling it. Here's a picture of the torque wrench on the setting i used:

Was my math off? The manual says use 14.5ft/pounds so I hope my math was right since the wrench is in inches.
It felt too easy to tighten compared to the exhausting hulk smash effort it took to remove the filter cap. Ended up needing to use the trick of hooking a second wrench to the main one so I could pull more torque on the cap to remove it.

Something I missed is that I did not replace the rubber grommets; ninja250 wiki says it's not necessary all the time plus these grommets have only been used once. I flipped and reused the bolt washers. AutoParts didn't have an individual 17m unless I bought the kit of like 10 different ones so opted to reuse it.
I followed this thing:

If everything was right all left now is to add the oil. Let me know if I'm good to go.

Triple Jim · June 3rd, 2017, 05:57 PM

I can't be sure of what I'm seeing on your wrench, but 14.5 lb-ft = 174 lb-in. I think your wrench is set to 120+50=170, which is close enough.

Jalequin · June 3rd, 2017, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

I can't be sure of what I'm seeing on your wrench, but 14.5 lb-ft = 174 lb-in. I think your wrench is set to 120+50=170, which is close enough.

From what I understood the instructions is the wrench starts at 10ft and each line increment is 1ft since it goes from 0/2/4/6/8/0 with a full rotation being 10ft since it finishes on 240in at the 0 which would be 20ft. Started at 120in-0; half a rotation to line 5 after initial 120in that should be 15ft. Think this is correct, if it was 120+50 then the dail should go up to 12, so the 5 should be 5ft so 120in+60in for 15ft

I guess then the correct would have been between 4 and 5 so I may have over torqued it 0.5ft.

Oh btw adouglas I took your advice and used a 3/8 wrench instead of the 1/2. And the big cardboard piece was also useful.

Ralgha · June 3rd, 2017, 09:52 PM

As I progressed further into maintenance on my Ninja, it seemed like most of the bolts were overtightened and required a hulk smash to loosen. Putting them back on never seemed as tight, though I followed the torque guides religiously. The worst was the front sprocket nut, holy hell that sucker must have been installed by the Hulk and Thor together. Electric and pneumatic impact wrenches didn't budge it, it finally gave with a hulk smash on a 5 foot breaker bar.

Jalequin · June 3rd, 2017, 11:00 PM

All done with a hiccup.

My math was way off during adding oil and at first I had only added half the required oil, unaware of this I turned the bike on for about half a minute since the indicator was saying it's full but I knew it's just because the filter wasn't filled.

The oil light took a few seconds to turn off; but good that it did (I hadn't noticed I had only added HALF the required amount. I hope this wasn't a big issue since it was only idling).
So that realization freaked me out a bit now that it cycled for a few seconds I added the rest; it's good now, happy bike happy me.

I must say you guys are much better than Reddit. I asked for help there too to get multiple opinions and was shocked how some people specifically said not to use a torque wrench in favor of a box end one. Glad I came here

.

Next project in a few months I'll change brake pads.

MrAtom · June 3rd, 2017, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jalequin

All done with a hiccup.

My math was way off during adding oil and at first I had only added half the required oil, unaware of this I turned the bike on for about half a minute since the indicator was saying it's full but I knew it's just because the filter wasn't filled.

The oil light took a few seconds to turn off; but good that it did (I hadn't noticed I had only added HALF the required amount. I hope this wasn't a big issue since it was only idling).
So that realization freaked me out a bit now that it cycled for a few seconds I added the rest; it's good now, happy bike happy me.

I must say you guys are much better than Reddit. I asked for help there too to get multiple opinions and was shocked how some people specifically said not to use a torque wrench in favor of a box end one. Glad I came here

.

Next project in a few months I'll change brake pads.

/r/motorcycles has a lot of jerks. Jerks don't typically stay on this forum for long.

Half oil is a heck of a lot better than no oil. Since you only idled it a bit before realizing, it's probably okay. Just keep an eye on it and look for problems like metal chunks in your next oil change. (A few metal chunks in the oil screen isn't a big deal, especially if yours was never inspected or cleaned like mine when I first got it. If you forgot this step when changing your oil, no biggie. Just change it next time).

Here's hoping that you stay long enough to be able to help others with questions like your own further down the line. We all start somewhere and are always happy to have a new member with your level of caution and desire to be prepared.

Triple Jim · June 4th, 2017, 06:57 AM

As long as the oil pump's pickup was submerged in oil when it ran, having less than the proper amount was not a problem. The fact that the oil light went out means it was submerged.

Engines that have previously run with oil, and therefore have oil in the bearings (etc.) can idle for a long time without any oil in the sump and the warning light lit. At least several minutes without damage. I have seen this first hand.

Timpo · June 4th, 2017, 10:31 PM

Link to original page on YouTube.

Triple Jim · June 5th, 2017, 06:58 AM

That Ari sure gets around.

June 3rd, 2017, 01:29 AM	#1
Jalequin ninjette.org newbie Name: J Location: FL Join Date: Mar 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250 Posts: 8	Do I have everything needed for oil change? HI! Do I have all needed parts to change my oil and filter? I don't know if the washer is correct. I'd like to buy whatever equivalent that AutoParts sells. I already have lots of sockets of other brands that should fit the wrench and already have non-torque wrenches to loosen the bolts. I've never changed oil myself; this is a step up from changing brake fluid 2 months ago. I already paid a shop one for and they added to much oil. The site says that filter won't fit, but I think that's incorrect; it is the correct filter. I'm currently using the CH6012 which AutoParts thinks also doesn't fit. Last futzed with by Jalequin; June 3rd, 2017 at 01:21 PM.

June 3rd, 2017, 03:36 AM	#2
adouglas Cat herder Name: Gort Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 6 MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13	Good for you for doing this right from the get-go. Too many people try to tackle the job with a pair of vise-grips and learn some hard lessons. 1/2" torque wrench is too big and won't be useful long-term. Check the torque range on it. The only thing I ever use a 1/2" drive torque wrench on is axle bolts... Since you're acquiring tools, consider getting a 1/4" drive wrench that goes up to about 20 ft-lbs (240 in-lbs) and a 3/8 that goes up to about 70-75 ft-lbs. The upper range of one will overlap the lower end of the other. (Torque wrenches are more accurate in the middle of the setting range.) That will handle just about every bolt you'll ever encounter, except the biggest ones. IMPORTANT NOTE: When you're done with the torque wrench, re-set it to minimum torque for storage. If you don't the spring in it will take a set and it'll be inaccurate forevermore. I learned this the hard way about 30 years ago. I still use that wrench... but now I know to set it a couple of pounds high. You need a drain pan, and a container for the old oil. And a funnel to refill without spilling. And a big box of shop rags, because you're going to spill anyway. Useful but not necessary: A magnetic retriever, because the drain bolt often slips out of your fingers and winds up in the drain pan. (See box of shop towels above...) Also useful but not necessary: A big piece of cardboard or (better) a foam mat to kneel/lie on. I think but would not swear that the crush washer is okay. If it's not, don't panic... you can flip the old one and reuse it at least once if not more than that. A lot of people do. Having seen it, you'll then know what to get. Get the oil hot before draining. Remove the filler cap before the plug to speed draining. Allow time for it to drain adequately. Once it gets to the occasional drip you're okay. Smear all gaskets with oil so they'll seal properly. OK to use used oil for this. Pay attention to the order of parts in the filter housing when you take it apart. Its possible to put it back together incorrectly. There's more to be said for spin-on type filters, but not applicable here. __________________________________________________ I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem.
	2 out of 2 members found this post helpful.

June 3rd, 2017, 09:52 PM	#7
Ralgha ninjette.org sage Name: Kevin Location: Portland, OR Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R, Tiger 800 XRT Posts: 828	As I progressed further into maintenance on my Ninja, it seemed like most of the bolts were overtightened and required a hulk smash to loosen. Putting them back on never seemed as tight, though I followed the torque guides religiously. The worst was the front sprocket nut, holy hell that sucker must have been installed by the Hulk and Thor together. Electric and pneumatic impact wrenches didn't budge it, it finally gave with a hulk smash on a 5 foot breaker bar. __________________________________________________ bike * miles = smiles smiles / bike = miles smiles / miles = bike

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June 3rd, 2017, 04:58 AM	#3
MrAtom . Name: . Location: . Join Date: Aug 2014 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: A lot. MOTM - July '15	Fram Toughguard (or whatever they call it) CH6012 is what I use and is the correct size filter, sold at AutoZone, if that's the one you want to use. That K&N filter is also good to go! Also, the filter and drain plug are 17mm. Don't use any other size or you risk rounding off the bolt. And, if you've never used or owned a torque wrench before, use it first on something else. Also, don't be surprised if the handle just gives a tiny click instead of a big click (you might not even hear it at lower torque values, and only be able to feel it. It can be very subtle. Don't keep wrenching on it at this point or you'll break it). It's also not a good idea to use your torque wrench as a ratchet. Also, keep your torque wrench stored separately from other tools to keep it in calibration (or as close to) calibration as possible, store it in a place it doesn't vibrate a lot (ex: not in a car), on the lowest torque rating, and in its hard case (should be included with purchase). Here's a pretty good write-up on the subject: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Oil_Change_Procedure

June 3rd, 2017, 05:43 PM	#4
Jalequin ninjette.org newbie Name: J Location: FL Join Date: Mar 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250 Posts: 8	I've finished replacing everything except oil. I have a doubt that I think I didn't apply enough torque when re-assembling it. Here's a picture of the torque wrench on the setting i used: Was my math off? The manual says use 14.5ft/pounds so I hope my math was right since the wrench is in inches. It felt too easy to tighten compared to the exhausting hulk smash effort it took to remove the filter cap. Ended up needing to use the trick of hooking a second wrench to the main one so I could pull more torque on the cap to remove it. Something I missed is that I did not replace the rubber grommets; ninja250 wiki says it's not necessary all the time plus these grommets have only been used once. I flipped and reused the bolt washers. AutoParts didn't have an individual 17m unless I bought the kit of like 10 different ones so opted to reuse it. I followed this thing: If everything was right all left now is to add the oil. Let me know if I'm good to go.

June 3rd, 2017, 05:57 PM	#5
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	I can't be sure of what I'm seeing on your wrench, but 14.5 lb-ft = 174 lb-in. I think your wrench is set to 120+50=170, which is close enough.

June 3rd, 2017, 11:00 PM	#8
Jalequin ninjette.org newbie Name: J Location: FL Join Date: Mar 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250 Posts: 8	All done with a hiccup. My math was way off during adding oil and at first I had only added half the required oil, unaware of this I turned the bike on for about half a minute since the indicator was saying it's full but I knew it's just because the filter wasn't filled. The oil light took a few seconds to turn off; but good that it did (I hadn't noticed I had only added HALF the required amount. I hope this wasn't a big issue since it was only idling). So that realization freaked me out a bit now that it cycled for a few seconds I added the rest; it's good now, happy bike happy me. I must say you guys are much better than Reddit. I asked for help there too to get multiple opinions and was shocked how some people specifically said not to use a torque wrench in favor of a box end one. Glad I came here . Next project in a few months I'll change brake pads.

June 4th, 2017, 06:57 AM	#10
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	As long as the oil pump's pickup was submerged in oil when it ran, having less than the proper amount was not a problem. The fact that the oil light went out means it was submerged. Engines that have previously run with oil, and therefore have oil in the bearings (etc.) can idle for a long time without any oil in the sump and the warning light lit. At least several minutes without damage. I have seen this first hand.

June 4th, 2017, 10:31 PM	#11
Timpo ninjette.org member Name: what Location: Canada Join Date: Aug 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 37	Link to original page on YouTube.

June 5th, 2017, 06:58 AM	#12
Triple Jim Guy Who Enjoys Riding Name: Jim Location: North Carolina Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16	That Ari sure gets around.