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Old December 29th, 2020, 06:37 PM   #1
GAU-8
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My dirty commuter

I need to re-do the vinyl. Which I'll be working on in about a month, maybe two. She's dirty though, but thats ok. Means she works for a living

Kind of a hot mess, as I have USB cords scattered to power my camera, on the go. Will re-route them soon. A few other minor odds n ends to clean up, bu....blah blah blah...blahblah blah.
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Old December 30th, 2020, 12:40 AM   #2
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That's nice paint job!!!

Might want to power camera from headlight circuit. So they go on & off with bike.
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Old December 30th, 2020, 01:24 AM   #3
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Oh ,thank you! Will definitely look into it.

(Especially now that I have 3 cameras onboard ( front, rear facing, and helmet.) The screws for the battery are barely accomodating, into thier respective pos/neg terminal.( not including the LED kits I have as well.)

How would you recommend, going through the wiring? Regular soldering, and heat shrink? Or a mechanical connection, +soldering/heat shrink.

As far as the vinyl...I'm going to keep it two toned. I love the colors, but I have to fix the purple/black design area. Or I may do something all together different.

Most don't know it, but half of the vinyl was actually sucked onto the plastic, by vaccuum forming. I had mediocre results, as I only had a 2 x 4 ft table, a small shop vac, and harbor freight heat gun.. I know have three 11 gallon air tanks, 2 stage vaccuum pump, and outside/auto quartz heat lamp, with a 4x5ft table. I should have it together in a few weeks, and post up the specs, and videos. ( I think automotive people who wrap bikes, are thinking in automotive, and not plastic applications.) I've seen so many youtube channels, where they heat the vinyl, stretch it, but don't have vaccuum. ( because we just can't vaccuum form vinyl wrap cars yet...well not economically.) So they think of it in auto terms.. not plastic molding.) I'm trying to change that.

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Old December 30th, 2020, 02:21 AM   #4
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Here is a few crappy, in garage, no light,( actually 1 photo has garage lights on) just LED. Pics. ( I'm pretty sure I posted the basics somewhere in the forum??)

So when I replaced the windscreen, I sanded down the inside, and outside.Then installed window cling film ( the frosted type) on both the inside and outside of the windscreen. It's really opaque, and the led placement above instruments, just glows the screen up. Even during the day. So I ride with them on 24/7. Lights are wired to brake lights, so when I brake, all leds turn RED....BRIGHT ....."STOP!" red. I have better pictures during evening, that are gorgeous, I'll have to post up when I find them on PC.

I haven't adjusted color on the photos, so the intensity to real life is not the same, nor is color.

Next plan is to sand the bottom edge, and top edge of windscreen, and polish, and install LED on bottom edge. This way the leading top edge will glow.
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Old December 30th, 2020, 06:06 AM   #5
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Looks good!
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Old December 30th, 2020, 11:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAU-8 View Post
How would you recommend, going through the wiring? Regular soldering, and heat shrink? Or a mechanical connection, +soldering/heat shrink.
Yup, I prefer to have all three components in wiring joint:

mechanical strength - wire knot is best, or crimp for laziness/convenience
electrical conductivity - solder, nothing beats real lead/tin solder. Also adds to mechanical strength of joint
weather-proofing - solder seals wire-end gaps from moisture creeping in between. Adhesive shrink-wrap adds to that protection and prevents black/green wire disease


To get power from headlight circuit, I connect to actual terminals in headlight socket.

1. extract terminal from connector without damage using appropriate extraction tool

2. open up strain-relief slightly and feed new wire through (strip wire-end so that insulation goes under strain-relief). Solder new-wire to top of existing crimped wire. Gently re-crimp strain-relief. Add heat-shrink wrap to cover solder and strain-relief. Different type of terminal shown, but same idea:


3. re-insert terminal into headlight connector.

Repeat at tail-light connector for rear-camera. Wiring-length is shortest since power-source is near camera location anyway. Nice thing about this is lighting circuit is already fuse-protected, so no need to add separate fuse for camera power-feeds. I used these USB power-adapters with micro-USB output to connect directly to camera.
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Old December 30th, 2020, 02:32 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info!

I'll see if I can get that rewiring, and wire routing this weekend.
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Old December 30th, 2020, 05:07 PM   #8
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I don't like my waterproof camera box having unsealed hole for USB power cable. I really like riding in rain! I'm going to experiment with opening up old battery, hollowing it out, and connecting power wires inside it. By using some ribbon cable to make connection, I think I can close lid over it and still have water-tight seals.
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Old December 30th, 2020, 05:31 PM   #9
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Rain riders unite!

Im more comfortable in the rain on a bike, than I am in a car, in the dry.

Always something new to learn, observe, or practice in the rain. Still a beautiful day, just wet! Woohoo! Rainy ride day! I love it.
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Old December 31st, 2020, 08:43 AM   #10
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Nice looking ride C.

I don't like riding in the rain.
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Old December 31st, 2020, 05:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
I don't like my waterproof camera box having unsealed hole for USB power cable. I really like riding in rain! I'm going to experiment with opening up old battery, hollowing it out, and connecting power wires inside it. By using some ribbon cable to make connection, I think I can close lid over it and still have water-tight seals.
Nice! I think it would work. Even if there might be minor material removal from the housing, in worst case scenario.
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