Valve Adjustment - NFW

Jim Moore · June 19th, 2012, 05:55 AM

OK, I checked my valves last night. Luckily they were all in spec, because there's no way I could have gotten in there to make any adjustments. I don't even think it's possible.

Maybe I need different tools. What type of feeler guages are you guys using? Anything special? Are you using the special kawi tool if you actually have to make an adjustment? Are you taking the radiator completely off? Please help me. I'm a little traumatized at this point.

davenay67 · June 19th, 2012, 06:13 AM

I will start this reply by stating for the record that I hate adjusting the valves on this bike. In fact, I hate all screw-and-locknut valve adjustments. I feel better now that I have gotten that off my chest.

I personally do not use the Kawi valve tool for no other reason than I don't own one. It might take a little longer to adjust using just a socket and screwdriver, but you will get there in the end just as surely. I use a deep 1/4 drive socket that came in a set from Sears. Being long and thin it can get to the adjust locknut quite easily. Any small-ish screwdriver will turn the tappet.

I just use the regular feeler gauges, although you could spend extra and get the set with the bent tips. That gap is so fine that the feeler gauge being used is very flexible and can flex nicely to get into the gap.

I do not remove the radiator, but I do remove the fan, the coils and the 2 engine side supports. It gives you the extra room to work in comfort without taking anything off that is a pain to reinstall, such as a radiator (refill, bleed, etc).

I've done this a couple of times now and it's a very quick job to get to the head and actually begin checking the valves. But I still hate the actual valve adjustment part....

cbdallas · June 19th, 2012, 06:17 AM

It isn't the easiest job in the world, but unbolting the radiator and pushing it forward will help. I use a set of feeler guages I picked up at CycleGear. They're basically aluminum sticks with the feeler guage riveted onto the end. I just bought the sizes I needed, so I only had 2. I also invested in the Kawasaki adjustment tool. You CAN do the job without it, but you need a thin-walled socket for the exhaust valve nuts, or it won't fit between the nut and the wall. It's just so much easier with the tool, because you can stabilize the nut while adjusting the screw. I found doing it with a socket wrench & screwdriver was a real pain.

n4mwd · June 20th, 2012, 04:53 PM

The first two valve adjustments I did it with a 1/4" short socket on a short extension. I finally bought the tool but I haven't used it yet. Should make it a lot easier.

If you hate adjusting the valves on a pregen, be thankful you don't have to do it on a newgen. From what I've seen, its a major job to get at the shims in there.

I have never done anything to the radiator other than maybe loosening it a little. The valve cover is a bit tricky to get out sometimes, but it can be done with a little skill.

As far as the feelers, I'd go with a bent tip set with a nut that lets you take them apart and only use the ones you need.

davenay67 · June 21st, 2012, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n4mwd

If you hate adjusting the valves on a pregen, be thankful you don't have to do it on a newgen. From what I've seen, its a major job to get at the shims in there.

I've own quite a few bikes that use shims and buckets, and they have all been realtively easy to adjust once you know what you're doing. Most use a special tool that makes life much easier.

And most of those bikes only needed a first 'bedding in' adjustment, and ran without need to re-adjust for many thousands of miles thereafter. I'd take that any day over constant screw and locknut adjustments.

Ignore me....these valves are just my pet peeve on a bike that is otherwise very easy to maintain and work on in general.

bdavison · June 21st, 2012, 07:35 AM

Pregen is a piece of cake compared to newgen.

The newgen will make you want to strangle whatever college brat engineer decided it would be a good idea to make you have to disassemble 50% of the bike to adjust the valves.

n4mwd · June 21st, 2012, 07:45 AM

I know the newgen will go like 12K miles between adjustments, but from what I've seen you have to remove the cams and chain to get them. Then if your selection of shims wasn't right, you have to start over.

The only problem I see with the pregen is that if you torque the nuts too tight, you can destroy the engine. --> Overtorqued nuts snap the retaining ridges on the rockers, the rockers come loose and slip between the timing sprockets, the valves get out of sync and then the pistons impact the valves shattering the pistons, bending the valves, breaking the remaining rockers, bending the cam, and breaking the head. Sounds like a reach, but it has happened before.

Summary: Don't over torque your adjustment nuts. The consequences are grim.

Jim Moore · June 21st, 2012, 10:09 AM

Hey N4,

I would like to come down and watch next time you do the valves, if you wouldn't mind. I'd like to see someone do it before I mess with them again.

Thanks,

davenay67 · June 21st, 2012, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n4mwd

I know the newgen will go like 12K miles between adjustments, but from what I've seen you have to remove the cams and chain to get them. Then if your selection of shims wasn't right, you have to start over.

The only problem I see with the pregen is that if you torque the nuts too tight, you can destroy the engine. --> Overtorqued nuts snap the retaining ridges on the rockers, the rockers come loose and slip between the timing sprockets, the valves get out of sync and then the pistons impact the valves shattering the pistons, bending the valves, breaking the remaining rockers, bending the cam, and breaking the head. Sounds like a reach, but it has happened before.

Summary: Don't over torque your adjustment nuts. The consequences are grim.

Shim-under-bucket....lovely..!!

Both of my Triumphs were shim-over-bucket. Very quick, easy and accurate....a simple tool is all that is required to get the shim out for replacement. Don't remember my GSXR, trying to forget as much as possible about that bike....

I am always a little nervous about torquing the valve nut tight, even with a torque wrench....it's such a low torque setting.

n4mwd · June 21st, 2012, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Moore

Hey N4,

I would like to come down and watch next time you do the valves, if you wouldn't mind. I'd like to see someone do it before I mess with them again.

Thanks,

Jacksonville is a pretty good drive to here. It would be just as good to look at some of the DIY's on the subject. There are also some youtube videos - some good, some bad.

There are 4 basic steps:

1. Remove the necessary body work - seat, side panels, tank, mirrors, front fairing.
2. Remove the valve cover - plugs, one coil.
3. Adjust the valves - turn engine by hand to proper mark and do one cylinder at a time. The Mark is only correct every other revolution so be sure to get it right.
4. Reassemble everything.

June 19th, 2012, 05:55 AM	#1
Jim Moore ninjette.org member Name: Jim Location: Jax, FL Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2000 Ninjette, 98 CBR600, 98 VFR800, 2000 BMW R1100RS, Kymco Movie 150 Posts: 146	Valve Adjustment - NFW OK, I checked my valves last night. Luckily they were all in spec, because there's no way I could have gotten in there to make any adjustments. I don't even think it's possible. Maybe I need different tools. What type of feeler guages are you guys using? Anything special? Are you using the special kawi tool if you actually have to make an adjustment? Are you taking the radiator completely off? Please help me. I'm a little traumatized at this point. __________________________________________________ Jim Moore Jax, FL

June 20th, 2012, 04:53 PM	#4
n4mwd ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: D Location: Palm Beach, FL Join Date: Oct 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250R, 2007 EFI Ninja 250R Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 1	The first two valve adjustments I did it with a 1/4" short socket on a short extension. I finally bought the tool but I haven't used it yet. Should make it a lot easier. If you hate adjusting the valves on a pregen, be thankful you don't have to do it on a newgen. From what I've seen, its a major job to get at the shims in there. I have never done anything to the radiator other than maybe loosening it a little. The valve cover is a bit tricky to get out sometimes, but it can be done with a little skill. As far as the feelers, I'd go with a bent tip set with a nut that lets you take them apart and only use the ones you need. __________________________________________________ My Ninja Blog Proud member of ABATE.My NYC Road Rage documentary - CENSORED!

June 21st, 2012, 07:45 AM	#7
n4mwd ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: D Location: Palm Beach, FL Join Date: Oct 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250R, 2007 EFI Ninja 250R Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 1	I know the newgen will go like 12K miles between adjustments, but from what I've seen you have to remove the cams and chain to get them. Then if your selection of shims wasn't right, you have to start over. The only problem I see with the pregen is that if you torque the nuts too tight, you can destroy the engine. --> Overtorqued nuts snap the retaining ridges on the rockers, the rockers come loose and slip between the timing sprockets, the valves get out of sync and then the pistons impact the valves shattering the pistons, bending the valves, breaking the remaining rockers, bending the cam, and breaking the head. Sounds like a reach, but it has happened before. Summary: Don't over torque your adjustment nuts. The consequences are grim. __________________________________________________ My Ninja Blog Proud member of ABATE.My NYC Road Rage documentary - CENSORED!

June 21st, 2012, 10:09 AM	#8
Jim Moore ninjette.org member Name: Jim Location: Jax, FL Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2000 Ninjette, 98 CBR600, 98 VFR800, 2000 BMW R1100RS, Kymco Movie 150 Posts: 146	Hey N4, I would like to come down and watch next time you do the valves, if you wouldn't mind. I'd like to see someone do it before I mess with them again. Thanks, __________________________________________________ Jim Moore Jax, FL

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June 19th, 2012, 06:13 AM	#2
davenay67 ninjette.org member Name: Dave Location: Lisle Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Goldwing GL1800, 2002 Ninja 250, 2001 VFR800, 1999 Ducati 996 Posts: 107	I will start this reply by stating for the record that I hate adjusting the valves on this bike. In fact, I hate all screw-and-locknut valve adjustments. I feel better now that I have gotten that off my chest. I personally do not use the Kawi valve tool for no other reason than I don't own one. It might take a little longer to adjust using just a socket and screwdriver, but you will get there in the end just as surely. I use a deep 1/4 drive socket that came in a set from Sears. Being long and thin it can get to the adjust locknut quite easily. Any small-ish screwdriver will turn the tappet. I just use the regular feeler gauges, although you could spend extra and get the set with the bent tips. That gap is so fine that the feeler gauge being used is very flexible and can flex nicely to get into the gap. I do not remove the radiator, but I do remove the fan, the coils and the 2 engine side supports. It gives you the extra room to work in comfort without taking anything off that is a pain to reinstall, such as a radiator (refill, bleed, etc). I've done this a couple of times now and it's a very quick job to get to the head and actually begin checking the valves. But I still hate the actual valve adjustment part....

June 19th, 2012, 06:17 AM	#3
cbdallas ninjette.org guru Name: Charlie Location: Wylie, TX Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 650R Posts: 317	It isn't the easiest job in the world, but unbolting the radiator and pushing it forward will help. I use a set of feeler guages I picked up at CycleGear. They're basically aluminum sticks with the feeler guage riveted onto the end. I just bought the sizes I needed, so I only had 2. I also invested in the Kawasaki adjustment tool. You CAN do the job without it, but you need a thin-walled socket for the exhaust valve nuts, or it won't fit between the nut and the wall. It's just so much easier with the tool, because you can stabilize the nut while adjusting the screw. I found doing it with a socket wrench & screwdriver was a real pain.

June 21st, 2012, 07:35 AM	#6
bdavison Wartown, USA Name: Bryan Location: Warner Robins, GA Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.	Pregen is a piece of cake compared to newgen. The newgen will make you want to strangle whatever college brat engineer decided it would be a good idea to make you have to disassemble 50% of the bike to adjust the valves.