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Old October 1st, 2019, 03:26 PM   #1
GAU-8
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Missing: blinker wires or plugs

Edited

I worded it so backwards. Let me restart.

The ninja does not have turn signals. And I cannot find where they plug in. ( no loose wires dangling anywhere. ) what determines what or where a blinker connection is ?

Last futzed with by GAU-8; October 1st, 2019 at 08:16 PM.
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Old October 1st, 2019, 08:21 PM   #2
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For 2008-12 new-gen, look at big bundle of wiring under rear of tank on each side. May need to unwrap some electrical tape to see wire colours and perhaps find taped-up remnants of turn-signal wires. On left side is green & black/yellow wires



On right is grey & black/yellow wires



If yours has been cut off, you’ll want to use original HB050 connectors:
https://www.corsa-technic.com/catego...ategory_id=163


If you have to add wire to restore proper length & reach, use western-union (lineman) splice so you only have to do it once and never have to worry about it again. All electrical connections are tied/crimped and soldered and heat-shrink wrapped in pro-motorsports, aerospace and military applications for performance, reliability and durability.

Link to original page on YouTube.e to


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Old October 1st, 2019, 09:18 PM   #3
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Thx!

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Old October 2nd, 2019, 04:44 AM   #4
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Hell yeah...

Linemans splice NASA GRADE ALL THE THINGS!

When I get home, i'll pull everything back off, and double check. I didn't realise the connectors were so far back. I thought they were closer to the headlight/triple tree. I did see an unused small connector back there. ( the second one is probably tucked up.) As I cant see a good reason to cut off a connector.

Which reminds me. Under the front side of the gas tank, there is a box, with a nipple, for a hose, and an un-used connector. What goes there? Or is that only if it's a CA state bike? RPM -tach works. Fuel gauge does not. Maybe for that?
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Old October 2nd, 2019, 11:25 AM   #5
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Here's link to NASA Wiring Manual. I think there'd be lots fewer plane-crashes if FAA adopted more stringent NASA wiring standards. Although more and more crashes are due to software glitches nowadays. Don't get me started on programmers...


There should be 2-wire connector on harness (right side) just under tank. It may not be visible unless you take tank off and look from top. This is for fuel-level sender. Make sure plug is connected to tank. I've seen senders fail as they are mechanical floats (like toilet). You can remove sender from tank and measure resistance between 2 terminals of plug. Then manually move sender float and see if resistance changes.




There's also strange vent-hose that goes under fuel-level sender. I suppose to drain gas & fumes down under bike if sender leaks. Don't want it dripping on hot engine.

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Old October 2nd, 2019, 04:48 PM   #6
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If you don’t have the original connectors anymore honestly just using crimp splice connectors and heat shrink or the butt splice connectors with heat shrink built in would do just fine. Never ever use what’s called a Scott’s-Lock. It’s a splice connector you crimp with a pair of pliers without the need to strip wire insulation. I see those all the time on the trucks I work on and they are only good for causing an issue later down the road.

I would worry with adding original connectors back, simply because it’s not needed, to crimp the new terminals to the wire you will have to buy the correct crimp pliers for that style and size terminal and that will run $30 or more, and likely only need them once. Splicing the turn signals to the wiring harness will mean you have to cut the wires if you remove the fairing, so there is a trade off on doing one way or the other. You could also find original connectors from a parts bike so you would only need to butt splice the connectors to your harness since the connectors would already have the terminals crimped to the wire. What we call a pigtail in the automotive industry.
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Old October 2nd, 2019, 05:05 PM   #7
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Thx,

i'm good. Found the original connectors. Just dirty, and hidden from sight. Took a bit. But all is there and cleaned off with electrical spray. Will test them this weekend.
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Old October 6th, 2019, 05:23 PM   #8
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So a new issue has arisen from it's thorny doom.

Two blinkers work. ( the rear) if I hook up the other two, i get a springy.electro sounding Gggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, that tapers off, from the switch/box, and no lights work.

Basic incandescent light bulb blinkers ( SpeedMetal micro arrow indicators) not L.E.D.

About to remove rears, and keep fronts hooked up, just to make sure those work.
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Old October 6th, 2019, 05:41 PM   #9
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Try having just front lights connected. Does it work?

Might be short somewhere in front harness.
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Old October 6th, 2019, 05:48 PM   #10
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Munches on dinner. Adultly stares off into space.....
3

2

1

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Old October 6th, 2019, 06:35 PM   #11
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Ok.

Both Fronts work, by themselves.

Both Rears work, by themselves.

Left side front/rear doesn't work. When connected

Right side front/rear doesn't work. When connected


Im guessing components have been changed between the 06 pregen, and the 08. Both have the same style/brand of aftermarket blinkers installed. The 06 doesn't have about a 1 second pause from activating, to blink. Nor the heavy electro-springy mechanical sound the 08 does. Not sure if that matters. Just an observation, I figured I would bring to the table.

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Old October 7th, 2019, 02:32 PM   #12
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After some sluething about, all clues ( and internet posts abound) pointed the relay.

I'll have a write up and pictures about how I went around doing solder, and removable connectors.
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Old October 7th, 2019, 08:59 PM   #13
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After a few forum/internet searches, the main P/N for an alternative to OEM that kept coming up readily for NON L.E.D relay (i.e. light bulb blinkers) was this.

The Ll552

found readily, at most auto stores for 5 to 7 U.S.D. Plugged it in, used some rubber straps, and secured it fairly close to stock position.




Now, as for connecting the blinkers, a few ways to go about it. For various reasons I settled on these. EC3 connectors, that you can pick up from any reputable RC hobby shop. They are permanent, yet disconnect, with a firm tug on both ends, at the same time. Rated up to about 60 amps, which for blinkers is overkill. But after the intial soldering, quick and easy disconnections, if needed. (About 6 to 7 dollars per connector.)

The is a male connector, and 2 male bullets. A female connector, and 2 female bullets.

Female connects from power source.
Male connects to the device you wish to power.




I needed some "helping hands" here. Anyways, you see the orifice that gets filled up with solder, and the wiring that becomes embedded. Don't forget to add the heat shrink tubing, before tining, and soldering.





Once filled in with solder, it should look something like this. Let it wait a few moments to solidify, then give it a reasonable tug, to ensure it's properly soldered. Slide the heat shrink tubing down, and give that a quick blast of hot air. Sealing off any exposed wire. Once cool, push both wires into the EC3 connector, you will feel a firm, locking click. This prevents the soldered bullets, and wire from being pulled out.




Do the same for the male side now. When that is completed.slide the male connector, into the female, until you feel those 2 parts have firm tension. ( for redundancy, I used a cable tie, to lock the to halves in place, so there is no slide out, from vibrations.)





Forgot to take a photo of the two halves mated, with zip tie, but that should be self explanatory. Anyways, there could be a better, easier installation, but for me, it was a nice go between for a permanant solution, and using unreliable crimped blade style connectors. Worst case, something different.
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Old October 8th, 2019, 12:28 AM   #14
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Awesome job with finding that relay & building those connectors!!!

Fondly reminds me of my teenage years hanging out at Sheldon's Hobbies getting latest for RC cars. Soldering is really only way to join wires to terminals reliably. Contact surface area is immensely larger than crimping. Can handle much more current and is one of main reasons behind that requirement in aerospace and military applications.

Crimping without soldering is used for cheap and fast production, but has serious drawbacks in durability. OEMs do it for fast production lines, but it comes back and bites them due to corrosion and eventual overload. Kawasaki has numerous faults in their harnesses on many bike-models where multiple common ground-wires are joined via crimped 4-way connectors. These corrode over time due to moisture and arcing from limited contact surface-area fries joint and it fails.

Toyota too has numerous issues with multiple-grounds joining (blue connector in left foot-well). After while, plastic connector housing melts due to heat from high-current flowing through restricted contact-area. It affects entire product-line, from lowly Corollas all way to top-of-line Lexus.

I used to make replacement battery & headlight harnesses for Porsches. Just replacing harness alone increases light-output by 25-50%. Every single wire is pre-tinned entire length for corrosion-resistance, end is crimped, soldered and heat-shrink wrapped according to NASA manual.



Battery harness with mil-spec zinc battery clamps (better conductivity, non-corrosive)


Headlight harness


And I warranty them for 50-years. It's been 25-years now and not single one has come back. People will remove my harness from their cars when selling and move them to their new cars. They occasionally pop up on eBay being sold for higher than my original pricing!

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Old October 8th, 2019, 05:04 AM   #15
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That is crazy! I enjoy stuff like that!

One of the things I read about, was how apparently. BMW always had horrible radio reception. (Or something along those lines.) Apparently they just LOVE designing electrical equipment that tied into something else, to get several jobs done, rather than dedicated lines per item. For the sake of being hi-tech. Same with using some over engineered parts, that often failed. If I remember correctly, one was an aluminum engine bolts (?) Due to inflixibility, was the part that failed, where the steel bolts had flex. Thus the stronger link, in ways, became the weakest.
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Old October 8th, 2019, 03:16 PM   #16
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Yuck, don't get me started on BMWs, bikes or autos!!!

Both my brothers are BMW freaks and I just don't get why people spend so much money on keeping unreliable autos alive! I'd always be one to fix it for them too! Had tonnes of people bring BMWs to my shop asking to make them more reliable. Then I'd tell them to sell it and buy Toyota! ahahahhahahh!!!!

BMW just pushes edge of technology way, way too much. Always latest and most novel tech, but untested and fine-tuned. Appeals to yuppies I guess. When E46 M3 came out with ITB, there was always auto-transport full of them coming into Cutter Motors to get warranty engines installed. Might survive 9000rpm redline in labs for couple hours, but in real-world use, it just doesn't last.

Contrast that with Porsche (or Ferrari vs. Lambo), who always uses 1-2 generation older tried-and-true tech simply because it works, all bugs have been worked out and can last 24-hr races easily.
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