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Old November 1st, 2021, 06:59 AM   #1
DaveW
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Overcharge issue

I have a Ninja 300 2014 non abs at only 11000 miles.

I have stupidly thrown money at the problem and ended up with another problem.
I originally had no charge, changed the battery (needed to keep using the bike for work and charging nightly was my only option.)
I tested the diode resistance as per Kawasaki manual and had readings outside of specified ranges. Changed the rectifier (for a used one from ebay) which made no difference.
I replaced the stator (new pattern part). Which resulted in overcharging (18v @ 4000rpm).
Changed rectifier again for another used part and it's now charging at 16v. Battery drops to 12.3v overnight.
Battery dash light stays on as it's over range allowed. (starting to get used that light staying on now).

Have I been unlucky to get two faulty rectifiers or am I missing something?
I'm about to diode test the three rectifiers I now have to rule out triple bad luck, hoping for a magic suggestion from this experienced community.
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Old November 1st, 2021, 07:08 AM   #2
thedrewski86
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I had an undercharging situation quite recently that involved two faulty used regulators. I wound up with a new stator and upgrading my r/r unit to the newer design SH775. It involves some new wiring connectors but overall worth it; it's a better-designed unit and most importantly keeps me between 13 and 14 volts. I got the r/r off ebay for $100, just search SH-775. They're factory replacement for lots of vehicles now.
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Old November 1st, 2021, 09:48 AM   #3
DannoXYZ
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This SH-775 series regulator is also OEM on lots of Polaris. Used to be much cheaper, got my 1st one 10-yrs ago for $50. But they've caught on to people using them on bikes as well. Look up how to spot fake ones, many out there. Find reputable seller with good feedback.

Can get connector kit here:
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...onnectors.html

Check fluid level in battery and keep topped off. Overcharging tends to dissociate H2O and causes boiling-off of fluid levels.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 01:09 PM   #4
DaveW
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Well, I'll be darned, the original rectifier works just fine
Returning the two duds to their sellers (I wonder if they were chancing their luck on getting rid of their own bad items).

Headlights back in and battery lights are off.

Happy chappy, thanks for your replies, I will certainly look into the sh775.
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Old November 3rd, 2021, 01:11 PM   #5
thedrewski86
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So do you think it was simply the stator that toasted? Or could the battery have been a significant part of the fix too?
Regardless, I would toss a volt gauge on the bike so you can monitor the charging system. Getting stranded sucks.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 01:39 AM   #6
DaveW
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Confident it was just the stator, it was my cheapness that wished the cheaper and easier rectifier at fault.

I'm monitoring it, the old battery seems fine too, although slightly less capacity. They have both had a battering being over charged, but so far, so good.

The stator ended up being cheaper than I was originally told and the work itself was straight forward, the struggle I've had is getting the high beam bulb in, some form of Japanese torture for my huge hands.
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Old November 4th, 2021, 05:54 AM   #7
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If the problem was only a bad stator, then why, when you replaced it, did you then get overcharging at 18v?
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Old November 4th, 2021, 07:13 AM   #8
thedrewski86
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It sounds like the new stator was followed up by two faulty regulators. I would be double-checking all the wiring connections as I just had this happen to mine. The old connectors really aren't that great when they get jammed up (I found out!)
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Old November 5th, 2021, 02:12 AM   #9
DaveW
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Exactly that.
Changed rectifier, Stator, another rectifier then back to the OEM original rectifier.
0v, 18v,16v then back to 12\13 afterwards, in same order.

Learned my lesson.
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