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Old November 6th, 2014, 07:15 PM   #1
DaNinjaDragon
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Carb Issues...? HELP

I'm having a little trouble with my bike. I put it away one day and the next day it wouldn't idle and eventually wouldn't accelerate. So i cleaned out the carbs, thinking it could be some dirt and replaced all the parts, put it back together and it would accelerate, but it still won't idle. Thought it could be a vacuum leak, but I replaced all the hoses, but still no luck with the idle. The air filter is brand new, changed the spark plugs, and adjusted the valves prior to these issues. Carbs are also synched. Not really sure what is left to do. Clean them out again?
Any help is appreciated!
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Old November 6th, 2014, 07:19 PM   #2
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Perhaps a tear in one of the rubber adapter tubes between the carbs and the head?
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Old November 6th, 2014, 07:32 PM   #3
DaNinjaDragon
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When I took it all apart it didn't seem to have any tears, but I'll have to check it out again
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Old November 6th, 2014, 08:09 PM   #4
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Sounds like the idle jet is still dirty, I thought I had mine clean a couple of times before it dawned on me that they can be unscrewed and given a real cleaning. Mine were so dirty you couldn't see that there was a screwdriver slot in it. Takes a fairly small screwdriver to fit into the hole.

http://n4mwd.blogspot.com/

scroll down the page to see pics of carbs

Last futzed with by Z1R rider; November 6th, 2014 at 08:11 PM. Reason: forgot some info
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Old November 6th, 2014, 08:18 PM   #5
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I didn't even think about that the first time, but I'll try that next. After doing that were your idle issues resolved? I think that's the only thing I haven't tried yet so I'm hoping that will be a success and I can get back to riding!
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Old November 6th, 2014, 09:00 PM   #6
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Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws (generally 2 1/2 turns out is close) and then set the hot idle to 1300? Is the fuel fresh?

There's a fair amount of work needed to really get the carbs clean.

Look over this section and see if you did everything that needs to be done - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...n_the_carbs%3F
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Old November 6th, 2014, 09:07 PM   #7
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Yep I did all that when I put the carbs back together. I cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner, sprayed carb cleaner in all ports & blew all the jets out with air. Fuel is fresh. Been running seafoam in the tank since I got it also
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Old November 6th, 2014, 09:22 PM   #8
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What about the idle mixture screws and the hot idle speed?
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Old November 6th, 2014, 09:26 PM   #9
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Yes I adjusted both of those
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Old November 7th, 2014, 05:29 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaNinjaDragon View Post
I didn't even think about that the first time, but I'll try that next. After doing that were your idle issues resolved? I think that's the only thing I haven't tried yet so I'm hoping that will be a success and I can get back to riding!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaNinjaDragon View Post
Yep I did all that when I put the carbs back together. I cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner, sprayed carb cleaner in all ports & blew all the jets out with air. Fuel is fresh. Been running seafoam in the tank since I got it also
yep, I tried the Seafoam and carb cleaner in the ports and it wasn't until I used an ultrasonic cleaner that it was clean enough to even see the screwdriver slot. After pulling the jet and cleaning it and the port in the carb, put it back together and resynced them and it ran like a new bike. If only one is plugged it idles a different kind of weird at different engine temps, have to run part enrichener (choke), won't return to idle, (when you slow it down with idle speed adjustment it dies), poor throttle response, but runs good once it gets off the idle circuit and catches at full honk or even with a load at half throttle or so.
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Old November 7th, 2014, 08:17 AM   #11
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Spray some carb cleaner around the intake boots to confirm you don't have a vacuum leak.

You said you adjusted the idle mixture screws (2 1/2 out?) and set the hot idle to 1300. So when won't it idle?

Can you post a video of it?
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Old November 8th, 2014, 06:54 PM   #12
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Perhaps do a compression check?
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Old November 10th, 2014, 09:14 AM   #13
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My pregen was doing the same thing...
Bike had a sputtering/hesitation issue when you twisted the throttle, cleaned carbs, still there, cleaned again, now bike wouldn't idle, cleaned again, sputtering returned, cleaned once more following a detailed video on youtube and everything ran great and I sold her before she had a chance to mess up on me again hahaha
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Old November 10th, 2014, 11:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaNinjaDragon View Post
Yep I did all that when I put the carbs back together. I cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner, sprayed carb cleaner in all ports & blew all the jets out with air. Fuel is fresh. Been running seafoam in the tank since I got it also
What solvent did you use in the sonic cleaner? Was the cleaner large enough to submerge the entire carb? The sonic cleaner alone should have cleaned the carbs completely. IMO, spray carb cleaner ranks a little better than urinating on the carbs in cleaning effectiveness.
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Old November 10th, 2014, 11:57 AM   #15
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I haven't had a chance to take the carbs apart yet, I got my wisdom teeth out a couple days ago haha. But when I cleaned them out the first time they were fully submerged in simple green and a little distilled water.
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Old November 10th, 2014, 01:48 PM   #16
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When this happens to me it usually the pilot jet. You have to unscrew it and check those tiny holes are all clear. It generally only happens when I run the tank low and some crud from the bottom gets in the carbs.
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Old November 10th, 2014, 07:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I haven't had a chance to take the carbs apart yet, I got my wisdom teeth out a couple days ago haha. But when I cleaned them out the first time they were fully submerged in simple green and a little distilled water.
Not sure how aggressive Simple Green is in removing varnish and other deposits. I use Berryman's Chem Dip, which is designed to clean carbs and have had very good results. After about 45 minutes to an hour or so, vapors begin to come off the Chem Dip and I shut it off. If you go this route, be aware that Chem Dip is flammable and monitor the process closely. You don't want to burn anything up! The Chem Dip can be used multiple times until it becomes too contaminated with crud from dirty carbs.
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Old November 11th, 2014, 05:13 AM   #18
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PINESOL!!!!

PINESOL! Use Pinesol! Chemdip, and any other dedicated carb dip will kill any rubber or plastic parts it comes in contact with.

Please Mods, make a carb cleaning sticky!
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Old November 11th, 2014, 08:45 AM   #19
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I've had good luck with using old school Carb Dip for about an hour, then rinse, then into the ultrasonic cleaning solution for about 20 minutes in a few different positions. Then I rinse with D.I. water and coat with a Zirconium-based "Nano Coating" inside and out to prevent corrosion.

You can't use Carb Dip unless all gaskets, seals, and o-rings are removed, but you aren't going to get a good job unless you have it completely disassembled anyway.

http://www.apexcustomcoating.com/ultrasonic-cleaning/
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Old November 13th, 2014, 05:31 PM   #20
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Well I finally got a chance to take them apart again. Used some chem dip this time and took apart the choke mechanism inside the carbs. Put it together and it seems to run great. Started ride up and it idles normal It's a little touchy but it was before I had issues.
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