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Old November 6th, 2018, 04:28 PM   #1
Fifthwheelman
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Winter rebuild time. With questions and updates.

Ok so I am finally ready to admit my personal riding season has ended...but on the plus side it’s rebuild/maintenance time.

I’ll post the full to do list as well as progress as it happens but I need info to start one major part.

I hate the way my exhaust sounds (wait don’t click away!) it’s too -redacted- loud way way too loud. I’m struggling to find an exhaust rebuild thread that is aimed at making quiet all I can seem to find is aimed to make loud. Should I just pull the mufflers and repack them? Potentially have things welded? I’m useless at exhaust.
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Old November 6th, 2018, 04:32 PM   #2
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Stock pregen mufflers are not loud. Has someone modified it, for example by drilling out the four rivets on each muffler? Or maybe even something worse.
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Old November 6th, 2018, 04:36 PM   #3
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These holes?
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Old November 6th, 2018, 06:18 PM   #4
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Endcap is missing
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Old November 6th, 2018, 06:58 PM   #5
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more missing than just endcaps, that thing is gutted.
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Old November 6th, 2018, 07:54 PM   #6
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You need cap and small tube to connect to inner tube shown.
Surely someone has set in box somewhere they're not using?
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Old November 6th, 2018, 09:11 PM   #7
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Is there a diagram of the complete muffler assembly? Preferable blown apart to show all the pieces?
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Old November 7th, 2018, 06:07 AM   #8
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I've never seen a diagram, as they are a one piece welded unit from the factory, I doubt one exists. Your best bet is to locate a pair of used mufflers.


Here's a few pics I took of one I opened up on the inlet side

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=322941
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Old November 7th, 2018, 06:20 AM   #9
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Pretty sure I can cut mine open have the center perfed pipe welded in place and then weld em back together for close to $50 should I add some muffler pack material around the center?
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Old November 7th, 2018, 06:41 AM   #10
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Do what you want, but I've seen people giving pregen systems away for free.
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Old November 7th, 2018, 07:00 AM   #11
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I'm looking at set of EX500 mufflers. They appear to be similar and might fit. I'll try to swap them in over weekend. If they do fit, they're yours for cost of shipping.

Interesting that new-gen with single muffler is actually quieter than pre-gen with two... hmmm...
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Old November 7th, 2018, 07:06 AM   #12
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I have no effective words for that offer...thank you @DannoXYZ
@Z1R rider where? Just asking because finding deals is a weak point in my skill set.
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Old November 7th, 2018, 07:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifthwheelman View Post
@Z1R rider where? Just asking because finding deals is a weak point in my skill set.

On this site sometimes, they're a helpful bunch! My son picked up a set from one of the members on here, for free as they were cleaning the garage. I've seen them on ebay for next to nothing at times, shipping may be prohibitive, I've never looked into it. You could post up in the "Items Wanted" section here and see what shakes out. Also keep an eye on the "Free Stuff" section.
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Old November 7th, 2018, 09:11 AM   #14
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Found a full set on eBay for around $45 didn’t ask shipping have to wait and see wether my attempted home brew muffler repair works.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:14 AM   #15
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To do list: strip all plastic off (done)
Remove carb (done)
Send carb off for fixen
Re align tire and make direction correct.
Remove and clean air box
Replace fluids and filters.
Repair cracked plastics
Re lube things.
Loctite things.
Rebuild/replace mufflers
Remove mufflers (done)
Gaze wistfully at the most-of-a-cycle and dream of riding season (current)
Put back together
Adjust valves (thanks for the reminder jkv45)
RIDE!
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:18 AM   #16
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I'd also check the valve clearances while you have everything apart.

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Hints_...lve_Adjustment

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/J_Valve_adjustment
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:21 AM   #17
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Pic 1 Getting naked.

Pic 2 and 3 heat damage?

Pic 4 crack needing fixed. Abs correct?
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:23 AM   #18
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Re align? I’m not seeing any frame twisting or bends
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:24 AM   #19
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Ewww gross need to pull and clean airbox...speaking of who decided to put it there!? So much trouble to pull carb
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:26 AM   #20
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The potential source of my woes lookit the disintegrating foam in the tiny holes
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:29 AM   #21
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Little tube inside the muffler appears perforated which side (back or front) of the muffler does it attach to normally? Thinking of cutting at the weld my finger is on to have it re welded in place and then the cut weld re welded. Just a thought.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 12:25 PM   #22
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The pics in the link (#8 above) are what I found cutting the front weld, I never did cut the rear one. The way it looked to me is the tubes and baffles in the muffler are all spot welded in place and would be pretty hard to take out without destroying the muffler. Of course the ones you have look to be gutted, with all the baffling and routing tubes removed by whatever means. It is tough to beat the performance of the factory engineered stock mufflers.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 02:51 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Little tube inside the muffler appears perforated which side (back or front) of the muffler does it attach to normally? Thinking of cutting at the weld my finger is on to have it re welded in place and then the cut weld re welded. Just a thought.
I don't think you have to cut front weld. Perhaps cut rear-weld to get centre tube down to meet original and to install cap.

But from looking at it, you probably won't need to do that even. Just make flat-disc that fits ID of muffler outlet. Cut hole in centre for tube of correct size and length to go down and join with centre tube. Weld tube to end-cap. Then insert end-cap to muffler outlet.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 03:02 PM   #24
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The baffle tubes in mine are loose indicating to me the spot welds on the back side are broken so probably next week I’ll cut the rear weld fill in the four holes where there used to be rivets weld baffle tube to the rear plate re align and re weld back together. Could be interesting it may just fix it.
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Old November 22nd, 2018, 10:12 AM   #25
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Ok so let’s see if I have this right. Exhaust gassed mover from motor to muffler via small tubes (circled) then nearly reverse to travel up a “collar” into the perforated tube in the center then exit via smaller hole in center (green arrow) and that tube is supposed to be mated to the end cap with no gaps so gassed are forced to go the long way correct? If so I can probably fix this with a bit of exhaust piping and some creative welding if I am wrong...suggestions?
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Old November 22nd, 2018, 10:28 AM   #26
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Muffler rebuild may turn into a hobby item found multiple mufflers in better shape than mine on eBay running $5-$70 each variety of shipping cost looks like a decent pair will average out at $150 shipped. So very tempting...
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Old December 4th, 2018, 06:29 AM   #27
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Ok here’s a stupid or genius solution.

Parts laid out like so, welded in place tapped down and welded back together. $3 fix?
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Old December 4th, 2018, 02:23 PM   #28
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Hey, that looks pretty awesome. Did that quiet down the bike?
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Old December 4th, 2018, 02:55 PM   #29
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No idea lol carb is sitting in a box. On the plus side though it’s seems like it’ll work.
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Old April 23rd, 2019, 11:46 AM   #30
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Big update. Finally got bike back together a few days ago carb running smoothly sounded great with the muffler mod. Changed air filter cleaned air box. Oil change new spark plugs. Replaced front turn signals. Etc etc. anyways got it running smooth and happy.

Sunday decided to take a test ride see how it’s doing and about 30 miles in a loud pop was heard and the bike promptly died. Took it apart again yesterday and found the timing chain snapped and in the ensuing chaos 4 of 8 valve lifters are blown off some in pieces some whole but the screws holding them snapped. Found 3 of them meaning 1 has worked it’s way in parts or whole into the lower motor. I see 3 options none are particularly great. 1 replace motor. 2 replace bike. 3 overhaul engine. Sadness. My riding season may have already ended.
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Old April 23rd, 2019, 12:46 PM   #31
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Damn, tough break!
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Old April 23rd, 2019, 01:23 PM   #32
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See. It’s not happy
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Old April 23rd, 2019, 01:37 PM   #33
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Take head off to see if pistons have been perforated or cylinders scored. Most of the time, tiny scratch on piston and broken-off valve-heads and bent stems. Those can be replaced.

Best case scenario, used head and timing-chain for $200-300
Worse case, used engine for $300-600
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Old April 23rd, 2019, 01:43 PM   #34
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There are 3 of 4 valve lifters? (I think that’s what they are called) anyways what kinda lower damage am I looking to run into since 1 of those is awol and likely visiting my transmission at this point
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Old April 23rd, 2019, 03:45 PM   #35
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Rocker-arms. They're weak-point of these engines when improper valve-adjustment and/or locknut torque is used.

Pieces would fall into oil-pan and stay there, so not likely to harm anything. Should still pull off oil-pan to inspect while replacing head. Might not be worth trouble of measuring remaining rocker-arms, cams, valve-stems and valve-guides to determine how many of them to replace.

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Old April 24th, 2019, 03:37 AM   #36
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So you’re saying the head probably needs replaced? Now I guess it’s time to start sourcing parts. Thinking of starting in a junkyard looking at wrecked
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Old April 24th, 2019, 08:07 AM   #37
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At very least new head due to all work involved with repairing existing one. Still lots of effort. Complete engine would be easiest. Keep eye on local ads.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mpo...871460866.html
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Old April 24th, 2019, 10:17 AM   #38
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Ouch. I hope your fix isn't too bad and you get back to riding.
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Old April 24th, 2019, 11:13 AM   #39
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Sent an email off on a “parts bike” I found on local CL. Wait and see now
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Old April 24th, 2019, 05:05 PM   #40
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Anyone know a way to run a VIN on a missing title bike to confirm non theft?
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