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Old January 6th, 2012, 12:30 AM   #1
JamesNZ
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Brake caliper pistons

Hi Guys,

I just went to change my brake pads as there was barely any meat left on the old ones. I tried to push the pistons back in after I removed the old pads but I can't seem to do it, even though everyone says they slide back easily!? Is it safe to spray some CRC or something to lube them up? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to bike mechanics so sort of just learning as I go.

Thanks for any help you can give me!

James.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 05:50 AM   #2
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Spraying anything on them isnt gonna make them move easier, it will just clean them.
With your old pads in place, use a screw driver to push/pry the pads apart.. or a pair of reverse pliers work best.
The only way I would say they move easy, is when the caliper is in your hand. Then they will push right in and squirt brake fluid out the hole
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Old January 6th, 2012, 07:31 AM   #3
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With the caliper off the bike, put an old pad back in and after covering the caliper with something to protect the finish use a C-clamp.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 07:32 AM   #4
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Also, remove the reservoir cover. It may help you push then in a bit easier.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 07:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Also, remove the reservoir cover. It may help you push then in a bit easier.
I am thinking this. Mine were dead easy to push with an old pad and couple of fingers, but the reservoir cap on would make it near impossible to push the piston due to pressure.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 08:13 AM   #6
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No need to take covers off and what not. Just use a industrial heavy flat head screw driver to push the pads/piston back.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 10:45 AM   #7
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No need to take covers off and what not. Just use a industrial heavy flat head screw driver to push the pads/piston back.
If the cover is on you're pushing against air when the fluid is trying to push back. Not like taking one cover off is that hard. Just two screws.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 11:51 AM   #8
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If the cover is on you're pushing against air when the fluid is trying to push back. Not like taking one cover off is that hard. Just two screws.
Are you related to "A"? Someone do a IP check if they're the same peep.

Not like pushing the pistons apart is that hard too. Like I said, get an industrial heavy flat head and push. Takes 1 second to do whereas taking the two screws and making sure brake fluid doesn't leak over and what not takes more than 1 minute.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 12:26 PM   #9
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Am I the only one who doesn't find it hard to just push on the pistons with gloved thumbs? All I do is take the caliper off the bike, push them back in with my thumbs, and reinstall the caliper...
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Old January 6th, 2012, 12:50 PM   #10
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Yes, I used to do that but not now...I have sensitive thumbs.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 03:37 PM   #11
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You should change out the fluid too, then you can open the caliper ALL the way, flush it all our and put some dot 5.1 in it
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Old January 6th, 2012, 06:25 PM   #12
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Thanks Guys, I got some clamps to push them back with. I couldn't get one of the screws of the reservoir cover off. The screw is now stripped, any idea how to get it out?

Anyway I got the brake pads on and went out to bed them in. I have Adjustable levers and now I need them on setting 5 - the furthest out - to be in a good position for two fingered braking. When I first got them, setting 5 was so far out I couldn't reach it with my fingers.

Does this mean I need to bleed my brakes and top up the fluid?
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Old January 6th, 2012, 08:28 PM   #13
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Thanks Guys, I got some clamps to push them back with. I couldn't get one of the screws of the reservoir cover off. The screw is now stripped, any idea how to get it out?

Anyway I got the brake pads on and went out to bed them in. I have Adjustable levers and now I need them on setting 5 - the furthest out - to be in a good position for two fingered braking. When I first got them, setting 5 was so far out I couldn't reach it with my fingers.

Does this mean I need to bleed my brakes and top up the fluid?
Yep sounds like you've got air in your lines. Most likely when you pushed your pistons in it forced some air up to the lines.

Try dremeling a slot into the head of the screw and remove it with a flat head.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 09:59 PM   #14
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OK thanks I'll give that a try, once I get a dremel that is. I was hoping that for once my motorcycling maintenance would go smoothly but I guess not!!
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Old January 8th, 2012, 01:39 PM   #15
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You should change out the fluid too, then you can open the caliper ALL the way, flush it all our and put some dot 5.1 in it
DOT 5?

Everything I've read says to use DOT 4

Here's a useful DIY if changing fluid is what you want to do. I'ma follow it during spring break when I upgrade the front to Galfer SS brake line, and put new fluid in the rear
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:11 PM   #16
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:14 PM   #17
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DOT 5?

Everything I've read says to use DOT 4

Here's a useful DIY if changing fluid is what you want to do. I'ma follow it during spring break when I upgrade the front to Galfer SS brake line, and put new fluid in the rear
Dot 5.1 is great because you can use it in a 4 system. DONT MIX THE TWO THOUGH. Flush your old system out completely then fill it with 5.1. 5.1 has a higher boiling point then 4 I use it on the track and still I can feel it boiling, couldnt imagine running DOT in the canyons or track
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Old January 9th, 2012, 12:33 AM   #18
JamesNZ
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Well I did everything. finally bled the brakes BUT I don't know if I have done something wrong or not.

I've been for a couple or shortish rides since replacing the pads with Vesrah VD-250 J pads but they don't seem like a massive improvement over stock?

I read that you should break them in with some strong braking exercises 10 or so times then let them cool and repeat.

I took the pads out again at one point (for some newbie-ish reason) and even with the reservoir cap off the pistons didn't move back in easily.. Is that concerning?

Do you think I should just let them settle in some more?

This is my first motorcycle so I don't really have anything to compare it to which makes identifying issues a bit hard for me.

Any help or insight would be much appreciated!
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Old January 9th, 2012, 04:42 AM   #19
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It is not concerning. If they are not siezed (you can spin the wheel), and if you can apply the brakes normally, it is all right.

Stock pads are very good. I don't think that significant improvement can be felt on the street. Maybe someone with more skill than me can feel it, though.
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Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:47 PM   #20
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It's too early to tell on the pads. They have to break in
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