7,500 mile Maintenance Check- Valves?

kkim · December 30th, 2008, 08:40 PM

How many have had the 7.5K mile check done to their bikes? I'm interested to know if your valves needed adjusting when they were inspected.

If they were out of spec, how much were they off by?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Alex · December 30th, 2008, 11:42 PM

Why the concern, are you trying to pencil yours in for 2012?

kkim · December 30th, 2008, 11:54 PM

Actually, just the opposite. I know of one person who has had their valves checked/adjusted (Vex) and his was quite a bit out even before 7,500 miles, IIRC.

One of the changes to the new valve train design was so that adjustments wouldn't be needed as frequently as the pregens. I'm trying to determine if that's true or not and if I should even consider going in there now to check mine.

By getting some input from people that have had their 7,500 mile check done and if their valves needed adjustment or not, I can base my decision to check mine based on more input than just one person.

lol... how many miles does "Annie's" ninjette have?

Alex · December 31st, 2008, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

lol... how many miles does "Annie's" ninjette have?

5,900, so if the weather stays nice I may have an answer for you on the valve adjustment need sooner rather than later...

Alex · December 31st, 2008, 12:16 AM

I do appreciate that change Kawi made from the 1st gens to the 2nd gens; it never sat right with me that such an inexpensive bike required such an expensive service as early as 600 miles. Considering an R6, with its 16,500 RPM redline (along with most other Yamahas) doesn't have its first valve clearance check scheduled until 26,600 miles, it was a little hard to take. But 7,500 mile intervals, that's not great, but it's not bad.

kkim · December 31st, 2008, 12:29 AM

At least with the pregens, it was a relatively simple procedure to adjust the valves compared to the new gen setup.

I don't know if there has been an improvement, though... which is what I'm trying to find out... how well do these bikes hold their adjustment and being a "new" bike, are the maintenance intervals they are specifying in line with the actual need of the engine.

I've heard of other bikes that can go 7,500 miles and when checked the valves are still in spec. Trying to learn if our bikes are like that or if the engineers goofed and the valves should be checked more often than 7,500.

HKr1 · December 31st, 2008, 09:41 AM

Iam sure everything will be OK! This design should be better, long as they dont have soft valve seats(happend before on a kawi @20-25,000 miles)....... should be good for some time

Until somebody has done a few in a row(checks/adjustments) we wont have a good wear pattern

kkim · December 31st, 2008, 11:07 AM

Which is the point of this thread... is waiting till the 7,500 mile too long to wait to check it? If everyone who has their 7.5K check done finds their valves are out of spec, maybe it's indicating it should be done earlier?

Just trying to gather up some data here to establish a trend.

BlueTyke · December 31st, 2008, 11:24 AM

I'll let you know as I have to do it all again... :: sigh ::

HKr1 · December 31st, 2008, 01:49 PM

I see your point! Next time you have your bike tore apart, pop the cover and take a look

Now that ya get me thinking, we have always done the valve lash on everything when it was new (car's/bike's). It's something that really needs to be checked right off the batt.

This new truck, R1 & 250 are the only thing's I have never broke into within 750 miles to check it

Really, no bike I ever had needed it done the first few checks. Cars on the other hand, they all needed it. Good piece of mind, and correct valve lash helps performance < something you can feel

kkim · December 31st, 2008, 01:58 PM

I'm most worried about the initial pounding the valve seats can take that can make the valves tighter, which is a bad thing.

For me, I've found the cars hold there adjustments better than bikes. I'm concerned with the "new" model that the 08/09 bikes are, the design engineering might be off and we could have too soft valve seat materials which would require closer monitoring than 7,500 miles. Nothing to actually base that hunch on... which why I am asking for some real life data feedback from those that have had their valves adjusted at 7.5K.

Alex · April 16th, 2009, 08:39 PM

Mine didn't show a single valve out of spec at 7200 miles.

link to related thread

Nemy · April 16th, 2009, 08:42 PM

Great news! dunno why the pre-gens were so horrible for valves

sometimesido · April 16th, 2009, 09:52 PM

what do you mean by horrible?

oh, and I'm interested in this as well. Once I watched my mechanic friend do it correctly, it was easy. Don't know what kind of tools you guys need, but all I needed was basic set of tools, 1/4" deep socket 9mm, and feeler gauges. I think I can do the whole thing in about an hour and a half now. (not including the time cooling off the engine.)

Is it really that much harder to do this yourself on the new gen?

Viper-Byte · May 10th, 2009, 09:15 PM

Mine is getting the 12000km service now and I know that 2 of the valves are out (unsure which and by how much) as they need to order 2 shims, so my poor girl is going to spend the night half neekid in a shop filled with other half neekid bikes

I have asked them to note down the clearances and all that so I can report them back here.

Woot, on that note I am going home on a brand new KLX250

Hmm, grandparents farm, here I come

Also needed a new front tire, I am getting a Pirelli Sport Demon put on, see how that performs.

VeX · May 10th, 2009, 11:32 PM

I think the lack of more feedback on this subject is because a lot of people would rather pay a couple hundred $$ for a shop to do this. For this reason a lot of people don't have the foggiest if and by how much the valves were out, or what exactly they paid top $$ to have checked and adjusted

Viper-Byte · May 11th, 2009, 12:40 PM

I fully agree with you Vex, I asked the shop to note down the clearances before and after for my reference, then post em here

ahskeetz · May 13th, 2009, 09:12 AM

this might be bad, but mine is at 8500 and i haven't done the valve check yet, mainly because i don't have the 300 bucks thats needed to do it. i'll probably get it done within the next month because i just got a new job. i'll post the specs then.

Viper-Byte · May 13th, 2009, 02:13 PM

Right, the results. The 2 middle exhaust valves were a little low, at .17 and .20. they added a shim to each of these and now they are 0.20 and 0.23 respectively.
I don't know if this is badly out of spec or just, but that is how they were.

They also put in new spark plugs, a new front tire (sport demon), changed oil and filter, fitted my new 15t front sprocket, cleaned the air filter. She runs really great now. They used Shell Advance SX4 engine oil. I am going to change this to full synthetic. would I need to change the oil filter when I change the oil? or just drain the oil and replace it?

kkim · May 13th, 2009, 02:36 PM

are you going to change the oil right away?

Viper-Byte · May 13th, 2009, 03:30 PM

No, I have put about 200kms on it since the change and will not be able to change the oil till Sunday, and another few 100kms on it.

kkim · May 13th, 2009, 03:37 PM

you should be fine just changing the oil, but why not leave it in for a couple of hundred miles and then change out the oil/filter then? Nice fresh oil is a good thing to have and you're not hurting anything by leaving the present oil in there for a few hundred more miles.

I would change it when the oil starts to change to a darker color.

Viper-Byte · May 13th, 2009, 03:49 PM

OK, I have been using the oil the shop has been putting in, I have not used full synthetic, I was just thinking now would be a good time to switch.

I will give it 1000km and see after that.

darkknight49 · May 13th, 2009, 10:01 PM

had mine done in march. Valves did not need to be adjusted, everything looked fine. I bought the bike with just a shade over 7400 miles, currently at 7800.

FroggyGreenInSD · June 4th, 2009, 05:02 PM

I had my bike in the shop for the front brakes and was right at 7k miles so I had them do the 7.5k service (they said the mileage was close enough). The specs for the 2008-09 valves are:
intake: .15-.24 mm
exhaust: .22-.29 mm

Here's what the shop gave me for the measurements:
Before:
intake: .22 .25 .17 .15
exhaust: .22 .22 .22 .22

After:
intake: .22 .20 .22 .20
exhaust: .27 .27 .27 .27

I don't know why they adjusted the ones that were within spec unless it was to try and get all of them close to the same and within spec at the same time

I will say it runs very nice now

univox · June 5th, 2009, 05:38 AM

I'd say you found yourself a good shop. Some shops would have let it slide since everything besides that one intake valve was technically in spec. A good shop would go the extra mile and adjust everything to the loose side since this valve design generally gets tighter from carbon buildup.

CZroe · August 2nd, 2009, 08:32 AM

I'm interested in knowing the final cost of the 7,500mi service in different regions. East-Coast dealerships seem to be at least half the price of West Coast dealerships when I call for estimates. I'm getting estimate of $380-$500 in San Diego, about $150 in Newnan, GA, and $108 + parts in Virginia/West Virginia.

How much did you guys pay and in what region?

OH! And what is the verdict on whether the bike really "needs" the 7.5k service based on the measurements reported so far? I don't really know how "off" is beyond tolerance. Not a large enough sample size yet? Well, I'll be adding mine soon.

bob706 · August 2nd, 2009, 09:07 AM

I'm not quite ready for the 7.5k service but I went to my local Kawi dearship and was quoted $400 +whatever the shims cost. I am curious if there are any tell tale signs that the valves need adjusting. At $400 I would rather put off doing it until it really needs it.

ScorpionNinja · August 2nd, 2009, 02:59 PM

ATM i have 3,289.7 miles on my Nate! now the 1 year warranty will be up April,20,2010. BUT... heh i have the extended 4yr warranty. Having my Valves check be covered under this, and save me $300-400?

I got the 4 yr extended warranty cuz this bike will be with me for at LEAST 10 yrs. when im 42 and back cant take a sportbike, then ill sell Nate or trade him in! fyi

kkim · August 2nd, 2009, 03:15 PM

read your particular warranty. I don't believe maintenance items are covered.

CZroe · August 5th, 2009, 06:06 AM

Reporting in!

~$310 at Alba Action Sports in Poway (San Diego), CA. This is at about 7,860 miles; last service was at about 3,200 miles.

I asked them to record the clearances and they noted it in the repair order.

I checked and my receipt came with this note:
"VALVES WERE IN SPEC .006 .009"
Hmm.

Anyone know what they mean by "TIRES AND BRAKES ABOUT THIRTY PERCENT?" I didn't notice that until just now. Ya think that's 30% remaining until it's dangerously low and at risk of imminent failure (IOW, "immediate replacement recommended") or 30% remaining until replacement is recommended? I guess they'd be trying to sell me brakes and tires if the first interpretation were it, so I'm assuming the later.

camaroz1985 · August 5th, 2009, 06:24 AM

Did mine a month or so ago at about 7300. All mine were within spec though on the low side. I was going to move shims around and order some new ones to get everything back into the middle of the spec, but after waiting 3 weeks on shims, and finding out it would be another week I decided to put it back together the way it was. I'll do the next check a little early too.

CZroe · August 5th, 2009, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScorpionNinja

ATM i have 3,289.7 miles on my Nate! now the 1 year warranty will be up April,20,2010. BUT... heh i have the extended 4yr warranty. Having my Valves check be covered under this, and save me $300-400?

I got the 4 yr extended warranty cuz this bike will be with me for at LEAST 10 yrs. when im 42 and back cant take a sportbike, then ill sell Nate or trade him in! fyi

Haven't you had your first two services yet or did you do those yourself?

Some dealerships sell maintenance plans with or separate from the extended warranty, but I'm sure you'd know if you bought a maintenance plan (they would've used the selling point).

Momaru · August 5th, 2009, 07:57 AM

Jet, who did you call to get that $108+parts quote in VA/WV? I've called to the five dealerships nearest me and can't seem to find under $200+parts, minus one shop that said $55+parts, but wanted me to bring my specs for everything they were to check (aka didn't know them or have them on reference). Not going to them, out of paranoia.

I'd love to do the service myself including valves, etc (read the DIY, looks like fun), but just don't have a spare weekend in the forseeable future to do it and really really don't wanna botch something because I'm in a rush.

CZroe · August 5th, 2009, 08:08 AM

It was either Hillbilly's in Princeton, WV or SwampFox in Bluefield/Tazewell, VA. I can't recall. That price is oddly similar to a first/second service though, but I made sure they knew I was talking about the 7,500 mile service and that it was comprehensive "including valve checks and adjustment." It wouldn't surprise me if the missed that last bit and thus the quote was bad but I did my part to communicate clearly.

Momaru · August 5th, 2009, 08:13 AM

Yeah, Hillbilly is the shop that quoted me ~200. Have a dealer in Roanoke, VA (StarCity) that wanted $300+parts for 7500mi service, plus $100/tire to redo tires, I lol'd. I'll have to give SwampFox a ring, just in case. Thanks!

Will make sure to ask for valve specs so I can post up!

ASecretNinja · August 5th, 2009, 02:04 PM

Man you guys are getting REAMED when it comes to services. My 6,000 MI service (my manual says 6k, not 7.5k) was 130.00 at my dealer. Of course, I could have gone to Mission Motorsports and paid like 500 dollars to those ****ing wankers.

My valves were fine at 6200. I was told our valves are usually good till around 12k. You will hear them start to tick when they need to be adjusted. If you drive like an asshole, your valves will probably need adjustment sooner.

Alex · August 5th, 2009, 02:09 PM

The maintenance schedule is different on the new-gens. (this is the new-gen tech section) The older models needed valve check at 600 miles and then at every 6k afterwards, the new-gens have a different design and a slightly longer check interval. The first recommended check is now at 7.5k instead of 600.

CZroe · August 5th, 2009, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

The maintenance schedule is different on the new-gens. (this is the new-gen tech section) The older models needed valve check at 600 miles and then at every 6k afterwards, the new-gens have a different design and a slightly longer check interval. The first recommended check is now at 7.5k instead of 600.

And, from what I've been told, there is less "labor" for the previous generation, hence, the lower cost. Honestly, I'd rather do it every 6K miles for $130 than every 7,500 for $312.

backinthesaddleagain · September 8th, 2009, 12:05 PM

has anyone else had their valves checked/shimmed at 7500? I am now at 7100 miles.

December 30th, 2008, 08:40 PM	#1
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	7,500 mile Maintenance Check- Valves? How many have had the 7.5K mile check done to their bikes? I'm interested to know if your valves needed adjusting when they were inspected. If they were out of spec, how much were they off by? Thanks for any info you can provide.

December 30th, 2008, 11:42 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Why the concern, are you trying to pencil yours in for 2012? __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

December 31st, 2008, 12:16 AM	#5
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	I do appreciate that change Kawi made from the 1st gens to the 2nd gens; it never sat right with me that such an inexpensive bike required such an expensive service as early as 600 miles. Considering an R6, with its 16,500 RPM redline (along with most other Yamahas) doesn't have its first valve clearance check scheduled until 26,600 miles, it was a little hard to take. But 7,500 mile intervals, that's not great, but it's not bad. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

December 31st, 2008, 11:24 AM	#9
BlueTyke So slow I'm first! Name: Sunny Location: San Jose, CA Join Date: Oct 2008 Motorcycle(s): 06 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 10	I'll let you know as I have to do it all again... :: sigh :: __________________________________________________ Learn from the mistakes of others, you cannot make them all yourself. Save yourself the trouble and Learn.

April 16th, 2009, 08:39 PM	#12
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Mine didn't show a single valve out of spec at 7200 miles. link to related thread __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

December 30th, 2008, 11:54 PM	#3
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Actually, just the opposite. I know of one person who has had their valves checked/adjusted (Vex) and his was quite a bit out even before 7,500 miles, IIRC. One of the changes to the new valve train design was so that adjustments wouldn't be needed as frequently as the pregens. I'm trying to determine if that's true or not and if I should even consider going in there now to check mine. By getting some input from people that have had their 7,500 mile check done and if their valves needed adjustment or not, I can base my decision to check mine based on more input than just one person. lol... how many miles does "Annie's" ninjette have?

December 31st, 2008, 12:29 AM	#6
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	At least with the pregens, it was a relatively simple procedure to adjust the valves compared to the new gen setup. I don't know if there has been an improvement, though... which is what I'm trying to find out... how well do these bikes hold their adjustment and being a "new" bike, are the maintenance intervals they are specifying in line with the actual need of the engine. I've heard of other bikes that can go 7,500 miles and when checked the valves are still in spec. Trying to learn if our bikes are like that or if the engineers goofed and the valves should be checked more often than 7,500.

December 31st, 2008, 09:41 AM	#7
HKr1 IC2(SW) Name: Kerry Location: Pensacola Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: A lot.	Iam sure everything will be OK! This design should be better, long as they dont have soft valve seats(happend before on a kawi @20-25,000 miles)....... should be good for some time Until somebody has done a few in a row(checks/adjustments) we wont have a good wear pattern

December 31st, 2008, 11:07 AM	#8
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Which is the point of this thread... is waiting till the 7,500 mile too long to wait to check it? If everyone who has their 7.5K check done finds their valves are out of spec, maybe it's indicating it should be done earlier? Just trying to gather up some data here to establish a trend.

December 31st, 2008, 01:49 PM	#10
HKr1 IC2(SW) Name: Kerry Location: Pensacola Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: A lot.	I see your point! Next time you have your bike tore apart, pop the cover and take a look Now that ya get me thinking, we have always done the valve lash on everything when it was new (car's/bike's). It's something that really needs to be checked right off the batt. This new truck, R1 & 250 are the only thing's I have never broke into within 750 miles to check it Really, no bike I ever had needed it done the first few checks. Cars on the other hand, they all needed it. Good piece of mind, and correct valve lash helps performance < something you can feel

December 31st, 2008, 01:58 PM	#11
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I'm most worried about the initial pounding the valve seats can take that can make the valves tighter, which is a bad thing. For me, I've found the cars hold there adjustments better than bikes. I'm concerned with the "new" model that the 08/09 bikes are, the design engineering might be off and we could have too soft valve seat materials which would require closer monitoring than 7,500 miles. Nothing to actually base that hunch on... which why I am asking for some real life data feedback from those that have had their valves adjusted at 7.5K.

April 16th, 2009, 08:42 PM	#13
Nemy ninjette.org sage Name: Tim Location: Portland, OR Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2009 SE Ninja 250R Posts: 796	Great news! dunno why the pre-gens were so horrible for valves

April 16th, 2009, 09:52 PM	#14
sometimesido ninjette.org sage Name: Chris Location: Norcross, GA Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2006 250R Posts: 772 Blog Entries: 14	what do you mean by horrible? oh, and I'm interested in this as well. Once I watched my mechanic friend do it correctly, it was easy. Don't know what kind of tools you guys need, but all I needed was basic set of tools, 1/4" deep socket 9mm, and feeler gauges. I think I can do the whole thing in about an hour and a half now. (not including the time cooling off the engine.) Is it really that much harder to do this yourself on the new gen? __________________________________________________ my flickr™

May 10th, 2009, 09:15 PM	#15
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Mine is getting the 12000km service now and I know that 2 of the valves are out (unsure which and by how much) as they need to order 2 shims, so my poor girl is going to spend the night half neekid in a shop filled with other half neekid bikes I have asked them to note down the clearances and all that so I can report them back here. Woot, on that note I am going home on a brand new KLX250 Hmm, grandparents farm, here I come Also needed a new front tire, I am getting a Pirelli Sport Demon put on, see how that performs. __________________________________________________ 2008 GREEN Kawasaki Ninja 250R. AreaP Quiet Core Carbon Fibre : 8000k HIDs : Dynojet Jet kit : Double Bubble Windscreen

May 10th, 2009, 11:32 PM	#16
VeX That's me! Name: TJ Location: Ames, IA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r (Tis blue), 2008 CBR600RR Posts: 454	I think the lack of more feedback on this subject is because a lot of people would rather pay a couple hundred $$ for a shop to do this. For this reason a lot of people don't have the foggiest if and by how much the valves were out, or what exactly they paid top $$ to have checked and adjusted

May 11th, 2009, 12:40 PM	#17
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	I fully agree with you Vex, I asked the shop to note down the clearances before and after for my reference, then post em here __________________________________________________ 2008 GREEN Kawasaki Ninja 250R. AreaP Quiet Core Carbon Fibre : 8000k HIDs : Dynojet Jet kit : Double Bubble Windscreen

May 13th, 2009, 09:12 AM	#18
ahskeetz ninjette.org member Name: Wen Location: State College PA Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r Posts: 39	this might be bad, but mine is at 8500 and i haven't done the valve check yet, mainly because i don't have the 300 bucks thats needed to do it. i'll probably get it done within the next month because i just got a new job. i'll post the specs then. __________________________________________________ 2008 250r: AP CF full exhaust, raised needles, 6000k HIDs, flush mounts turn signals, custom fender chop

May 13th, 2009, 02:13 PM	#19
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	Right, the results. The 2 middle exhaust valves were a little low, at .17 and .20. they added a shim to each of these and now they are 0.20 and 0.23 respectively. I don't know if this is badly out of spec or just, but that is how they were. They also put in new spark plugs, a new front tire (sport demon), changed oil and filter, fitted my new 15t front sprocket, cleaned the air filter. She runs really great now. They used Shell Advance SX4 engine oil. I am going to change this to full synthetic. would I need to change the oil filter when I change the oil? or just drain the oil and replace it? __________________________________________________ 2008 GREEN Kawasaki Ninja 250R. AreaP Quiet Core Carbon Fibre : 8000k HIDs : Dynojet Jet kit : Double Bubble Windscreen

May 13th, 2009, 02:36 PM	#20
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	are you going to change the oil right away?

May 13th, 2009, 03:30 PM	#21
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	No, I have put about 200kms on it since the change and will not be able to change the oil till Sunday, and another few 100kms on it. __________________________________________________ 2008 GREEN Kawasaki Ninja 250R. AreaP Quiet Core Carbon Fibre : 8000k HIDs : Dynojet Jet kit : Double Bubble Windscreen

May 13th, 2009, 03:37 PM	#22
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	you should be fine just changing the oil, but why not leave it in for a couple of hundred miles and then change out the oil/filter then? Nice fresh oil is a good thing to have and you're not hurting anything by leaving the present oil in there for a few hundred more miles. I would change it when the oil starts to change to a darker color.

May 13th, 2009, 03:49 PM	#23
Viper-Byte ninjette.org sage Name: David Location: Wellington, New Zealand Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250R in Green! (Sold) Now 2011 Triumph Daytona 675 SE Posts: 564	OK, I have been using the oil the shop has been putting in, I have not used full synthetic, I was just thinking now would be a good time to switch. I will give it 1000km and see after that. __________________________________________________ 2008 GREEN Kawasaki Ninja 250R. AreaP Quiet Core Carbon Fibre : 8000k HIDs : Dynojet Jet kit : Double Bubble Windscreen

May 13th, 2009, 10:01 PM	#24
darkknight49 ninjette.org member Name: Faiyaz Location: Davis, Ca Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): Black 08 Ninja 250 Posts: 70	had mine done in march. Valves did not need to be adjusted, everything looked fine. I bought the bike with just a shade over 7400 miles, currently at 7800. __________________________________________________ 2008 Ninja 250 - Yoshi Exhaust, Brake Light Modulator, HID Kit To Come: Sliders, Fender Elim, Flush Mounts, Hugger (much later...no $ )

June 4th, 2009, 05:02 PM	#25
FroggyGreenInSD ninjette.org member Name: Mike Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 Green 250, 12 Ninja 650 (also green, it's the fastest color!) Posts: 32	I had my bike in the shop for the front brakes and was right at 7k miles so I had them do the 7.5k service (they said the mileage was close enough). The specs for the 2008-09 valves are: intake: .15-.24 mm exhaust: .22-.29 mm Here's what the shop gave me for the measurements: Before: intake: .22 .25 .17 .15 exhaust: .22 .22 .22 .22 After: intake: .22 .20 .22 .20 exhaust: .27 .27 .27 .27 I don't know why they adjusted the ones that were within spec unless it was to try and get all of them close to the same and within spec at the same time I will say it runs very nice now

June 5th, 2009, 05:38 AM	#26
univox ninjette.org newbie Name: Peter Location: NY Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): His: 07' ZX6R Hers: 09' 250R Posts: 2	I'd say you found yourself a good shop. Some shops would have let it slide since everything besides that one intake valve was technically in spec. A good shop would go the extra mile and adjust everything to the loose side since this valve design generally gets tighter from carbon buildup.

August 2nd, 2009, 08:32 AM	#27
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	I'm interested in knowing the final cost of the 7,500mi service in different regions. East-Coast dealerships seem to be at least half the price of West Coast dealerships when I call for estimates. I'm getting estimate of $380-$500 in San Diego, about $150 in Newnan, GA, and $108 + parts in Virginia/West Virginia. How much did you guys pay and in what region? OH! And what is the verdict on whether the bike really "needs" the 7.5k service based on the measurements reported so far? I don't really know how "off" is beyond tolerance. Not a large enough sample size yet? Well, I'll be adding mine soon.

August 2nd, 2009, 09:07 AM	#28
bob706 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sean Location: Mary Esther, FL Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 1998 HD Road King Posts: A lot.	I'm not quite ready for the 7.5k service but I went to my local Kawi dearship and was quoted $400 +whatever the shims cost. I am curious if there are any tell tale signs that the valves need adjusting. At $400 I would rather put off doing it until it really needs it.

August 2nd, 2009, 02:59 PM	#29
ScorpionNinja ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Dave Location: Michigan Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 650RTE & 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (SOLD) Posts: A lot.	ATM i have 3,289.7 miles on my Nate! now the 1 year warranty will be up April,20,2010. BUT... heh i have the extended 4yr warranty. Having my Valves check be covered under this, and save me $300-400? I got the 4 yr extended warranty cuz this bike will be with me for at LEAST 10 yrs. when im 42 and back cant take a sportbike, then ill sell Nate or trade him in! fyi

August 2nd, 2009, 03:15 PM	#30
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	read your particular warranty. I don't believe maintenance items are covered.

August 5th, 2009, 06:06 AM	#31
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	Reporting in! ~$310 at Alba Action Sports in Poway (San Diego), CA. This is at about 7,860 miles; last service was at about 3,200 miles. I asked them to record the clearances and they noted it in the repair order. I checked and my receipt came with this note: "VALVES WERE IN SPEC .006 .009" Hmm. Anyone know what they mean by "TIRES AND BRAKES ABOUT THIRTY PERCENT?" I didn't notice that until just now. Ya think that's 30% remaining until it's dangerously low and at risk of imminent failure (IOW, "immediate replacement recommended") or 30% remaining until replacement is recommended? I guess they'd be trying to sell me brakes and tires if the first interpretation were it, so I'm assuming the later.

August 5th, 2009, 06:24 AM	#32
camaroz1985 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Ryan Location: Carlisle, PA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 WR250R, 2006 Ural Raven (Sold), 2009 Versys Green (Sold), 2008 Ninja 250R Green (Sold) Posts: A lot.	Did mine a month or so ago at about 7300. All mine were within spec though on the low side. I was going to move shims around and order some new ones to get everything back into the middle of the spec, but after waiting 3 weeks on shims, and finding out it would be another week I decided to put it back together the way it was. I'll do the next check a little early too.

August 5th, 2009, 07:57 AM	#34
Momaru ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Paul Location: Roanoke, VA Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Candy Plasma Blue 250R Posts: A lot.	Jet, who did you call to get that $108+parts quote in VA/WV? I've called to the five dealerships nearest me and can't seem to find under $200+parts, minus one shop that said $55+parts, but wanted me to bring my specs for everything they were to check (aka didn't know them or have them on reference). Not going to them, out of paranoia. I'd love to do the service myself including valves, etc (read the DIY, looks like fun), but just don't have a spare weekend in the forseeable future to do it and really really don't wanna botch something because I'm in a rush. __________________________________________________ Proud member of the Blue Army

August 5th, 2009, 08:08 AM	#35
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	It was either Hillbilly's in Princeton, WV or SwampFox in Bluefield/Tazewell, VA. I can't recall. That price is oddly similar to a first/second service though, but I made sure they knew I was talking about the 7,500 mile service and that it was comprehensive "including valve checks and adjustment." It wouldn't surprise me if the missed that last bit and thus the quote was bad but I did my part to communicate clearly.

August 5th, 2009, 08:13 AM	#36
Momaru ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Paul Location: Roanoke, VA Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Candy Plasma Blue 250R Posts: A lot.	Yeah, Hillbilly is the shop that quoted me ~200. Have a dealer in Roanoke, VA (StarCity) that wanted $300+parts for 7500mi service, plus $100/tire to redo tires, I lol'd. I'll have to give SwampFox a ring, just in case. Thanks! Will make sure to ask for valve specs so I can post up! __________________________________________________ Proud member of the Blue Army

August 5th, 2009, 02:04 PM	#37
ASecretNinja ATGATT Squid Killer Name: Chad Location: So. Cal Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): '06 CBR600 Posts: 189	Man you guys are getting REAMED when it comes to services. My 6,000 MI service (my manual says 6k, not 7.5k) was 130.00 at my dealer. Of course, I could have gone to Mission Motorsports and paid like 500 dollars to those ****ing wankers. My valves were fine at 6200. I was told our valves are usually good till around 12k. You will hear them start to tick when they need to be adjusted. If you drive like an asshole, your valves will probably need adjustment sooner.