June 1st, 2015, 11:47 PM | #1 |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit
Anybody have a link to one?
Mine are filthy and beyond a deep cleaning I'm sure they could use a rebuild. While you're at it if anybody knows how to find a revalve kit for a gsxr shock that'd be great too
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
June 2nd, 2015, 10:55 AM | #2 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Luis
Location: Miami
Join Date: Sep 2014 Motorcycle(s): 1995 Ninja 250, 2005 R6, 2002 Ducati Monster S4 Posts: 250
|
Quote:
they are like $40 a pop... the rebuilt kits K&L seem ok but I have not used it yet... other option is to buy a used caliper from a used 250 and use those pistons but I rather spend $$ now and attempt to avoid problems later... all this on ebay.. seller is called something like power house UK.. ooh.. and front and rear do have their differences fyi.. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HSWHZU/...=I930PKZN84MD9 http://www.ebay.com/itm/151186191456...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
|
|
June 2nd, 2015, 12:16 PM | #3 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
Here's the write-up,
For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,* Front Caliper Service (also rear as well) Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems. *Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance. *Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new. A short list of the problems and the causes. Soft lever or lever goes to the bar. The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc. *Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched. Juddering in sync with wheel rotation. The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat. Cupped, coned, or warped disc. Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself. *Resulting is a cone shaped disc. Soft lever 2 The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc. *To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is. This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary. *If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it). Ok how to prevent all of the above. When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go. *Every time you must do these things. Remove caliper disassemble and clean it. Clean and re grease the sliding pins. Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding. Tools required: 12 mm socket 8mm open end wrench 3” or bigger C clamp a supply of new bake fluid. wire brush and or steel wool. Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on. Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins) Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar. Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one. Remove both pistons by hand. Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy. Disconnect the caliper from the brake line. Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new. The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish. Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it. The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here. If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher. *Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion. Re assembly Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers. Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid. Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves. Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows. Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC. Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder. *Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point. Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out. Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads. Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose. Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever. Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it. *After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.* ** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life. Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here. Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently. *Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
June 2nd, 2015, 12:25 PM | #4 | |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
Quote:
Hopefully I wont need new pistons or any hard parts.
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
|
|
June 2nd, 2015, 04:34 PM | #5 |
n00b with the b00bs
Name: Jen
Location: Southern California
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 EX250, 2008 EX250, 2001 ZR-7S, 2010 ZX-6R Posts: 470
|
I did the e-bay ones. All worked out well.
|
|
June 2nd, 2015, 05:13 PM | #6 |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
You mean the seals posted above?
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
|
June 3rd, 2015, 11:38 AM | #7 |
n00b with the b00bs
Name: Jen
Location: Southern California
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 EX250, 2008 EX250, 2001 ZR-7S, 2010 ZX-6R Posts: 470
|
HellifIknow
I went to e-bay I typed "Kawasaki 250 front brake seal" I sorted by cheapest price+shipping I found seals that were for my year I bought it now I repeated for "Kawasaki 250 rear brake seal" I have purchased various brake seal and re-build kits off of E-bay for both 250's and the 600. My bidding history says I've gotten stuff from Brakecrafter, and K&L through various dealers. I don't think there's any huge difference for the Powerhouse ones that are posted. |
|
June 3rd, 2015, 11:41 AM | #8 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
Amazon is another option
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
|
June 3rd, 2015, 01:34 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Luis
Location: Miami
Join Date: Sep 2014 Motorcycle(s): 1995 Ninja 250, 2005 R6, 2002 Ducati Monster S4 Posts: 250
|
SS pistons
sweet info..
any of you guys gone with more expensive option of getting stainless steel pistons????? |
|
June 3rd, 2015, 02:33 PM | #10 | |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
Quote:
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
|
|
June 3rd, 2015, 04:53 PM | #11 |
n00b with the b00bs
Name: Jen
Location: Southern California
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 EX250, 2008 EX250, 2001 ZR-7S, 2010 ZX-6R Posts: 470
|
One of 'em sold me a master cylinder rebuild kit including a master cylinder piston. But no, no caliper pistons.
|
|
August 29th, 2015, 11:13 PM | #12 | |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
Quote:
I've gotten this far... (admittedly I didn't remove the cover on the master at first (bolts are stripped) and this is probably the source of my problems). I had one piston almost all the way out, moved the clamp to the almost out one and the second one started coming out but at about 1/3rd of the way it stopped. Now the lever goes to the bar without any pushing power. Air in the lines. So I put my new master cylinder on and removed the top, using the C clamp I pushed the 1/3rd out piston back in and watched air come up in to the master. The other piston I get about halfway back in to the caliper and then it fights me too hard. Still nothing in the brake lever. Tried to loosen the bleeder screw and bleed it and nothing is coming out. Any ideas? @Motofool you're wise beyond your years... any experience here?
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
|
|
August 30th, 2015, 12:59 AM | #13 |
Track Clown
Name: Chris
Location: Kingman, AZ
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R, 21 MV F3 800, Kawasaki 400 build Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Sep '15
|
rebuilding is pretty much replacing the rubbers, search www.ronayers.com to fine all the rubber you need. if that is not the rubber you are looking for try trojan.
|
|
August 30th, 2015, 08:13 AM | #14 |
n00b with the b00bs
Name: Jen
Location: Southern California
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 EX250, 2008 EX250, 2001 ZR-7S, 2010 ZX-6R Posts: 470
|
Max, can you bring it over to my house this morning? Patti is coming over in an hour to work on her nsr. We can fix your brakes easily. Text me.
|
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
August 30th, 2015, 10:28 AM | #15 | |
Daily Ninjette rider
Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16
|
Quote:
You are trying to replace seals of the caliper. In order to do that, the pistons must be out. If air or more fluid is not coming into the reservoir, the pistons will not be out. If you installed a new master cylinder and reservoir, which is now opened to atmospheric pressure, and pistons still refuse to be pulled out, then internal crude is the problem. Grabbing each cylinder with a plier protected with a piece of leather, will allow you to rotate it while gently pulling out. If they don't go still, I would inject brake cleaner fluid into the caliper after disconnecting the hose, letting it to dissolve the internal crude. Do not force the steel pistons because the cylinders are soft aluminum and could be dented, ruining the proper gap between those.
__________________________________________________
Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
|
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
August 30th, 2015, 12:03 PM | #16 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
If one has access to an air compressor, you could under extreme caution use that to drive the pistons out, but it requires you to remove the caliper.
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
|
August 30th, 2015, 12:31 PM | #17 |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
Lookin in to trying this air compressor thing. I've also discovered that 1) my pistons are fairly pitted and 2) new pistons are rapey expensive. ($60..each) So I'll be buying random eBay caliper and hoping those are in better shape
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
|
August 30th, 2015, 12:51 PM | #18 |
Daily Ninjette rider
Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16
|
Pitting is bad only if interfering with the seals.
Please, take a look at this: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Brake_caliper_rebuild
__________________________________________________
Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
|
August 30th, 2015, 01:06 PM | #19 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
Could also use a grease gun to free the pistons
As far as pitting, my write-up covers that.
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
|
August 31st, 2015, 04:43 PM | #20 |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
@cookiebug79 helped me pop them out really quickly with an air compressor - she's the best!
I've gotten the pistons cleaned up well enough. Replacing the seals was very easy too. Thanks everybody!
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
August 31st, 2015, 04:45 PM | #21 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
Good deal
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
|
August 31st, 2015, 04:54 PM | #22 |
Daily Ninjette rider
Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16
|
Kudos to @cookiebug79 !!!
__________________________________________________
Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
|
August 31st, 2015, 05:06 PM | #23 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '99/'01 Ninja 250 "sketchy", '13 Ninja 300 "yoshi", '03 GSXR 600 "merlin" Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Mar '14
|
useful thread, I may need to rebuild my calipers this winter. I'll attempt a deep cleaning first (unfortunately I don't have time to do that at the moment)
__________________________________________________
I see you over there seeing me, do you see the me I think you see? |
|
August 31st, 2015, 05:43 PM | #24 |
n00b with the b00bs
Name: Jen
Location: Southern California
Join Date: Jan 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 EX250, 2008 EX250, 2001 ZR-7S, 2010 ZX-6R Posts: 470
|
Glad to get you going, Max!
|
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
September 3rd, 2015, 08:46 AM | #25 |
Nerd
Name: Chris
Location: Tujunga
Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ducati Hyperstrada Posts: 672
|
Max, Did you use a new OEM master cylinder or something better?
__________________________________________________
It doesn't LOOK that steep. But you can go first... |
|
September 3rd, 2015, 06:16 PM | #26 |
Gear crash test dummy
Name: Max
Location: South Bay (So. Cal)
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 race bike, 2014 ZX-636r Posts: A lot.
|
OEM. Don't see much point in spending the money for better when we should barely be braking anyway.
__________________________________________________
CVMA #531 |
|
September 3rd, 2015, 09:38 PM | #27 |
Track Clown
Name: Chris
Location: Kingman, AZ
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R, 21 MV F3 800, Kawasaki 400 build Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Sep '15
|
not gonna lie, i don't plan on using brakes much.
|
|
September 5th, 2015, 06:15 PM | #28 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Kurgan
Location: Texas
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 260
|
|
|
September 6th, 2015, 04:19 AM | #29 | |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
Quote:
The difference between DOT 3,4,&5.1 are the boiling points. If your hard on the brakes, that increases the temperature, I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT This is the one I use https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
|
|
September 6th, 2015, 04:27 AM | #30 | |||
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
Here's some more information on the subject,
You can convert to DOT 5, which is silicone based, but you MUST flush the system, tons of how-to's out there, I went with DOT 5.1 which is synthetic based, and 100% compatible with DOT 3&4 systems, without all the fuss, but a better fluid. I tried the Motul in SERENITY when I got her and rebuilt everything, so far so good. I don't know if I really needed it, but it nice to have it, just in case. https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
|||
|
September 6th, 2015, 06:32 PM | #31 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Kurgan
Location: Texas
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 260
|
Holy giant wall O text Brake Man ! ! ! DoT 5.1 it is then, it's time for new pads and the front brake is feeling less grabby than it used to be. I have to squeeze more than twice as hard as I used to for the same amount of braking. The rear feels like it grabs better than the front right now. |
|
September 6th, 2015, 06:38 PM | #32 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
|
LOL yeah it was. Be sure to service the calipers as well, my write-up is further up this thread. Resist the urge to just pop in the pads and go. Calipers must be serviced every time when changing brake pads.
__________________________________________________
violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild | aurbz | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 6 | April 5th, 2015 10:57 AM |
Brake caliper rebuild help | agentbad | 1986 - 2007 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 3 | April 6th, 2014 10:24 AM |
Where to buy brake piston rebuild kit? | agentbad | 1986 - 2007 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 4 | February 26th, 2014 01:42 PM |
2010 Ninja 250r Brake fluid bleed/Replacement and brake caliper cleaning | RandomPhantom | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 1 | May 30th, 2013 08:13 PM |
Caliper rebuild inquiry | Momaru | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 12 | January 13th, 2013 08:31 AM |
Thread Tools | |
|
|