Today was a long day, but the best day in 5 years at least !

[Bob KellyIII]

well, I took the wife out to dinner tonight and swung by harbor freight tools and grabbed one of the 4"x6" metal cutting band saws sense it was on sale for 20% off.... still it set me back $289.00 bucks but I figure that that price is just going to go up and I want one of those ! fabricating parts and tools would be ever so much easier with one like that that actually worked !
.... no doubt i HAVE A BIG PROJECT ahead of me just setting up that thing so it doesn't self destruct... but I'm up for that.
right now the box is setting behind the Triumph so the triumph has to be out'a there to un box the thing and assemble it.
....
back to the bike.... the only compression test I can do on it is put my thumb over the spark plug hole and kick it and see if it pops my thumb off.... it did on both cylinders my gauge cept popping off ( press on type) i could not hold it on there hard enough to get a good reading and Kick it too !...
but I got over 120 p.s.i. on the one cylinder and they both felt identical !
....
the points have been replaced with an electronic ignition system that seams to be working flawlessly...
the carbs were replaced with new Amal 930 carbs (standard stock issue) that have been upgraded to have a removable pilot jet in them.
( I did NOT set the float level and I am kicking myself in the ass for that !)
the air screws came set at 1.5 turns out and the manual says 2.5 turns out as a starting place....
.....
as weard as it sounds it sounds like it is doing the same thing all over again
it won't idle.... and is running like dooo dooo....
and the only thing I have done to the engine besides charge the battery was replace the original air cleaners that were well past due on replacement...
and the rest was working on the brakes.... what I did should not have effected the engine in any way.... .
... at first it would not start without the choke... and tickling the carbs
after playing with the air screws a bit i got it to run with the choke off...
but it is still not right....

I haven't pulled the plugs but I will when I go back out there again...
I think I will pull the air filters off and see if it runs any better with them off
just for S&G's an easy check to see if the air filters are actually the problem or not....
....
but it's pitch black outside and that will have to wait till morning now.
...
so I think my plan of action will be, pull the air filters and see if it runs better
if so, re set the air screws and get them set for highest RPM at lowest idle
that was very easy to do after I just put the carbs on...
.... I can check the carb synchronization again just to be sure, I can't with the air filter/air boxes on there.
.... i expect that is the problem actually.... could the air filters be sprayed with a preservative or something that plugs them up and your supposed to wash them first ???? I didn't wash them !
the filters came wrapped in a light sheet of thin paper and in a box no instructions of any kind like wash these first ! I've never heard of anyone doing that, but you know the Brits.... they like to change things.
...
later !
Bob......

[Triple Jim]

If the air filters are clogged it would make the engine run rich. You said it won't run without choke. That means that clogged air filters are not the problem.

[Bob KellyIII]

Ahh! good logic Jim.... your definitely right !

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

If the air filters are clogged it would make the engine run rich. You said it won't run without choke. That means that clogged air filters are not the problem.

I agree
That my guest to maybe something in float bowl and maybe plug something up on that side what is condition of the fuel tank no rust ?.
Have install new fuel line and fuel filter.

[Bob KellyIII]

....there is no in-line filter but I put on new petcocks with their good filters on them and there is new filters at the inlets in the carbs... so it shouldn't be dirty fuel....
tank seems good and clean but it's hard to see in there I'll strike a match to shed some light on it next time I'm out there ! <GRIN>
....
I took off the air boxes mainly to check the synchronization and all seems ok there... it might be off just a touch but not enough to hurt anything...
... i didn't try starting it because it is dark and I have retired folk as neighbors on both sides and they go to bed early and I didn't want to disturb them. that bike is noisy...
.... I have been wracking my brain as to what could cause the crummy running before all this latest stuff and again now.... and the only thing I can come up with is floats sticking....
as I know the carb on the left side has a tendency to stick when I tickle the carb.... it doesn't do it all the time but I have caught it doing it 2 times now.
I get a good puddle of gas under the bike real fast when it does
..... but that would also mean a rich condition not a lean one.....
....I can pull the pilot jet out easy on these carbs there's a X slotted screw on the back side of these carbs and all I have to do is unscrew it and the entire jet comes out with the screw "o" ring and all it's quite nice
.... Remembering back to before I got it running nicely it was the pilot jet...when I finally managed to unplug it that cured the problem even with the old carbs.... when the new carbs came I just put them on and everything was great... but now it's running just like before with the old carbs.... so I bet you the pilot jet on the left side is plugged.....
I'll try starting it in the morning and if it gives me any grief I will pull the pilot jet and give it a good LookSee ! ....I bet I will find a plugged pilot jet !
.....
I did remove the gas tank and that meant disconnecting the 2 gas lines , one from each new petcock.... but if there was sediments in those lines i could well have disturbed them... I did run gas through them just before I hooked them to the carbs but you know that's not enough if there are tiny particals still in the lines...stuck to the inside wall of the pipe.....
..... so that could have plugged up the pilot jet it's not very likely but it is possible.... but then again letting the bike set for 2 to 3 weeks and trying to start it and then it runs like doggie poo ...that isn't very likely either !

.... lean condition means pilot jet... that's why it didn't want to run without the choke........and it matches the results of last time....
.....
.....
sense I couldn't start the Triumph without disturbing the neighbors at night I started assembling the Harbor freight metal cutting band saw i brought home tonight..... the instructions are vague at best for the stand part and it gave me fits trying to figure out how to mount the tool tray on it... finally I saw the holes they made for it and I assembled it like the instructions said.
the cutting head is fairly heavy so I will inlist my Kid to give me a hand putting it on the stand tomorrow. but so far it's what I expected cheaply made but functional.... ( I think, i haven't plugged it in yet.)
.....
later all
Bob........

[Triple Jim]

Pleated paper filters in the fuel lines are always a good idea.

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

....there is no in-line filter but I put on new petcocks with their good filters on them and there is new filters at the inlets in the carbs... so it shouldn't be dirty fuel....
tank seems good and clean but it's hard to see in there I'll strike a match to shed some light on it next time I'm out there ! <GRIN>
....
I took off the air boxes mainly to check the synchronization and all seems ok there... it might be off just a touch but not enough to hurt anything...
... i didn't try starting it because it is dark and I have retired folk as neighbors on both sides and they go to bed early and I didn't want to disturb them. that bike is noisy...
.... I have been wracking my brain as to what could cause the crummy running before all this latest stuff and again now.... and the only thing I can come up with is floats sticking....
as I know the carb on the left side has a tendency to stick when I tickle the carb.... it doesn't do it all the time but I have caught it doing it 2 times now.
I get a good puddle of gas under the bike real fast when it does
..... but that would also mean a rich condition not a lean one.....
....I can pull the pilot jet out easy on these carbs there's a X slotted screw on the back side of these carbs and all I have to do is unscrew it and the entire jet comes out with the screw "o" ring and all it's quite nice
.... Remembering back to before I got it running nicely it was the pilot jet...when I finally managed to unplug it that cured the problem even with the old carbs.... when the new carbs came I just put them on and everything was great... but now it's running just like before with the old carbs.... so I bet you the pilot jet on the left side is plugged.....
I'll try starting it in the morning and if it gives me any grief I will pull the pilot jet and give it a good LookSee ! ....I bet I will find a plugged pilot jet !
.....
I did remove the gas tank and that meant disconnecting the 2 gas lines , one from each new petcock.... but if there was sediments in those lines i could well have disturbed them... I did run gas through them just before I hooked them to the carbs but you know that's not enough if there are tiny particals still in the lines...stuck to the inside wall of the pipe.....
..... so that could have plugged up the pilot jet it's not very likely but it is possible.... but then again letting the bike set for 2 to 3 weeks and trying to start it and then it runs like doggie poo ...that isn't very likely either !

.... lean condition means pilot jet... that's why it didn't want to run without the choke........and it matches the results of last time....
.....
.....
sense I couldn't start the Triumph without disturbing the neighbors at night I started assembling the Harbor freight metal cutting band saw i brought home tonight..... the instructions are vague at best for the stand part and it gave me fits trying to figure out how to mount the tool tray on it... finally I saw the holes they made for it and I assembled it like the instructions said.
the cutting head is fairly heavy so I will inlist my Kid to give me a hand putting it on the stand tomorrow. but so far it's what I expected cheaply made but functional.... ( I think, i haven't plugged it in yet.)
.....
later all
Bob........

The reason why I ask if you change out fuel line was it made for ethanol gas because today gas which can do odd thing to rubber especially vacuum lines hose causing tiny bit of rubber to separate from inside of the hose without you even know it.
The photo from a CRF450 dirt bike OEM fuel line petcock

You want Ethanol Resistant Hose that has a hard plastic liner surrounded by rubber like Shield 368 A1-15 the other option is the Polyurethane Fuel Hose like Tygon fuel hose.

If you are seeing a puddle under the bike, you want to take that bowl off and drain it just in case there something fuel passages that maybe keeping the float needle from seating all the way.
Note: The original Amal floats are all plastic and are not designed to be adjustable I hate those kinds of floats, while the modern “Stay-Up” floats feature metal tabs and that can be bent to adjust float level.

You may want review this on carb setup
https://www.classicbritishspares.com...c-float-height

[Bob KellyIII]

You know...that is a real good idea ! to replace the gas lines as they are original 1977 fuel lines and those are Not Ethanol resistant that I know of.
The bonneville shop sells a replacement fuel line setup with clear lines that I would like to get... it's 9 times more expensive than it should be but may well be worth the money. they also sell just the banjo's so you can put on your own fuel line. AND in line filters.
....
it's cold and snowy outside and nasty so I think I will give the shop a miss today and stay in the house where it is warm !
the triumph and bandsaw can wait !
....
thanks for the link to the video that is helpful !
....
Bob......

[Triple Jim]

McMaster-Carr sells Tygon fuel line, as do many other suppliers.

[Bob KellyIII]

ahh ! thanks Jim !!!
.....
well, Success the triumph is running good again.... and YES it was the Pilot jets
both were plugged !
.... which means the filters I have are not fine enough !
you'd think the ones in the carbs would be, but evidently NOT ! ( obviously)
....
that is a bit disturbing,..... where is that dirt coming from ? I bet the gas tank needs to be coated on the inside.... there is probably rust spots in it that I can't see.
I guess it is time to replace the gas lines and coat the tank....
....
I can't coat the tank in the cold like this so that will have to wait.
...

One kick got it running this morning but it was only running on one cylinder
( this was after I pulled the pilot jet on the left carb....)
and the right side was completely dead at idle.... worked fine above 2500 RPM nothing below that though....
so I pulled it's pilot jet and cleaned it too and put it back in and fired it up , with one kick and the revs were very high ! about 3000 RPM... but I finally got the idle screws backed down enough to idle and I adjusted the air screws for the highest RPM on each carb and then wanted to see how low an idle I could get..... I am guessing but I think around 500 RPM but I set the idle above that approx.. 800 RPM
did some final tweaking to the air screws to make sure they were at the highest RPM and left it that way.... put it in gear and pressed on the back break peddle and killed the engine with very little pressure !
so the back brake works !
.... started it one last time and checked to see if there was any stumbling on acceleration and there was none... it's instant response ! so it's working great again....
....
..
then I attacked the new bandsaw to see if I could get the tracking a bit better.... and I wish now I had left it alone...
try as I might I could not get the tracking correct ...I got it passable... not perfect !
their funky ONE bolt that holds the top wheel on interacts with the tracking set screw...if you loosen the bolt too far it really goes wonky !
if you don't loosen it enough the wheel won't tilt !
I played with it for about 3 hours and finally got it to where the blade would stay on again.... it's a real nightmare believe me !
the way it is now the top plade is all the way against the back guides and the bottom wheel is about 1/4 the way off.... but that is as close as I could get it
.... and for the life of me I don't know why .... it was all the way on both top and bottom.... a bit too far as it was rubbing the back guide the way it came.
....so I tried to adjust it so it wouldn't rub.... and that was a mistake I should'a left it alone ! LOL.....
... i'm not even sure it will cut anything now !
it needs more attention !
....
later !
Bob.........

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

that is a bit disturbing,..... where is that dirt coming from ? I bet the gas tank needs to be coated on the inside.... there is probably rust spots in it that I can't see.
I guess it is time to replace the gas lines and coat the tank....

As I suggested above, a pleated paper filter will stop everything that can cause problems. I would much rather add a filter or filters like that than coat a tank, as long as the tank doesn't have pin holes.

Depending on exactly which one you get, a sintered metal filter can let small particles through. I had one let a chunk of dirt through that was so big it clogged the main jet of my DT100's carb.

Paper filters are cheap, very effective, and can be replaced periodically if they get dirty looking or show signs of restricting fuel flow.

[Bob KellyIII]

Do you have a Link where I could get some paper filters for the gas line ?
as I just checked with the flashlight and i do indeed have a rusty tank !
preity much spotty all across the bottom and a few spots on the sides....
....
I got my little bandsaw going I found that tightening up the blade tension helped alot ! ...I am used to wood bandsaws with the rubber wheel strips that you have to release tension on the blade or you damage the rubber, this thing has iron wheels with no rubber so the tension can be left tight with no problems
.... the band saw does not turn itself off because it stops cutting before it's completely through the pressure of the switch is just enough to hold the blade up... so I backed off the gravity feed so there is less force holding it up but it still did the same thing ... I'll just add a lead weight on the head and cure that problem just a finger touch is enough to make it cut all the way through and then it falls 1/8" and turns off the saw.... I cut 3 slices off a 1/2" water pipe and it's square enough for me !

....
anyway.....
back to the bike....
I'd like to get 2 of those good paper filters that your talking about Jim
and I'll put them in both lines and call it fixed for now !
.... obviously the fine screens in the stock filters are not fine enough
I had to use my smallest wire probe in the carb cleaner set I bought to clean those jets ... that's pirty small !
.... I can see already that this will be an ongoing problem unless I find a way to filter out those fine particles...
so... How do you tell a good fuel filter from a bad one ?
do they rate them by microns or applications ???
I'll do a search and see what I can find !
later !
Bob........

[Bob KellyIII]

Well I bought 15 in line filters, 40 microns and some small hose clamps
I guess we'll see if they do the trick !
.... LOL
they are the paper type.... so they should catch rust flakes ! LOL
....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think that's a link to them....
later !
Bob.......

[Triple Jim]

Those should do fine, Bob. Now you have enough so you can throw a couple in your secret stash compartment in case the ones in the fuel lines get clogged during a ride. Observe the flow direction of the filters... the fuel goes in to the outside of the paper element and goes out from the inside of it. That way you can see how dirty it gets.

I have one on my Ninja 250, three on my H2, and one on the Yamaha DT100. A little rust in the tank is no problem now.

[Bob KellyIII]

KOOL I was hoping you'd say that .... and yes I should put one on the Ninja 250R as well, and the Kids TT250 so every one is covered ! LOL
...that's why I didn't mind getting 15 of them ! LOL
....
Bob.....

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

As I suggested above, a pleated paper filter will stop everything that can cause problems. I would much rather add a filter or filters like that than coat a tank, as long as the tank doesn't have pin holes.

Depending on exactly which one you get, a sintered metal filter can let small particles through. I had one let a chunk of dirt through that was so big it clogged the main jet of my DT100's carb.

Paper filters are cheap, very effective, and can be replaced periodically if they get dirty looking or show signs of restricting fuel flow.

Thing is once rust forms you need stop or it will just keep on rusting Jim and end up with fire bomb but that on you if you don't address it.

Hey, BoB yours should be 5/16" or 8mm size line

This is photo is my neighbor friends oh just happen to get a 1997 Ninja and I told he need to evapo-rust and seal tank guest what he didn't listen and here was the end result from it after a week of ride it that way it was, he leans the hard way by listen to so called buddy.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by shspvr

Thing is once rust forms you need stop or it will just keep on rusting Jim and end up with fire bomb but that on you if you don't address it.

Not in my experience, as long as moisture is not continuing to get into the tank. Rust itself is an anti-rust coating. It does not grow like cancer unless moisture is present, and if moisture is present, even an unrusted tank will rust.

I suspect your friend's tank already had one or more pinholes when he thought it was just rusty.

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Not in my experience, as long as moisture is not continuing to get into the tank. Rust itself is an anti-rust coating. It does not grow like cancer unless moisture is present, and if moisture is present, even an unrusted tank will rust.

I suspect your friend's tank already had one or more pinholes when he thought it was just rusty.

Nope the float hang open and flood soon he the start button even with fuel filter but I'm sure the tank had pin hole too.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by shspvr

Nope the float hang open and flood soon he the start button even with fuel filter but I'm sure the tank had pin hole too.

Rust particles cannot get through a pleated paper filter.

[Bob KellyIII]

I've only used a tank coating stuff 2 times so far and had well over 75 bikes in my time... most of them had good clean tanks but about 50% of them had rusty tanks.... Rust isn't the worry really... it's the pin holes rust causes.
once the metal gets so thin that you get pin holes you're better off throwing away the gas tank and getting another one !...
I have successfully patched a leaky tank with bondo before .... and again with JB weld the triumph tiger cub my brother in law had had a cracked tank between the rear bolt studs it was a hard one to fix but we finally accomplished it and rode it for decades ....t'was a fun bike !
....
I coated the tank in my Ninja with KREEM a $54.00 tank coating system
and it SEEMS to have coated it very well.... only time will tell though
I have heard horror stories of tank coatings flaking off and causing all kinds of problems putting paint flakes into the carbs....
that KREEM came with the bike the previous owner just never put it in
and she swore by it... has used it on every bike she's owned and never had a problem with it !
....in my experience if there's a little rust in the tank it will just get worse over time.... meaning it will spread like a cancer, but if you keep the gas tank full the chances of that are very small, But leave it empty over the winter and it will be completely covering the inside by spring ! been there done that !!!

.... so something must be done.... to stop the rust....

....
Bob.....

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

I've only used a tank coating stuff 2 times so far and had well over 75 bikes in my time... most of them had good clean tanks but about 50% of them had rusty tanks.... Rust isn't the worry really... it's the pin holes rust causes.
once the metal gets so thin that you get pin holes you're better off throwing away the gas tank and getting another one !...
I have successfully patched a leaky tank with bondo before .... and again with JB weld the triumph tiger cub my brother in law had had a cracked tank between the rear bolt studs it was a hard one to fix but we finally accomplished it and rode it for decades ....t'was a fun bike !
....
I coated the tank in my Ninja with KREEM a $54.00 tank coating system
and it SEEMS to have coated it very well.... only time will tell though
I have heard horror stories of tank coatings flaking off and causing all kinds of problems putting paint flakes into the carbs....
that KREEM came with the bike the previous owner just never put it in
and she swore by it... has used it on every bike she's owned and never had a problem with it !
....in my experience if there's a little rust in the tank it will just get worse over time.... meaning it will spread like a cancer, but if you keep the gas tank full the chances of that are very small, But leave it empty over the winter and it will be completely covering the inside by spring ! been there done that !!!

.... so something must be done.... to stop the rust....

....
Bob.....

I used Red-Kote

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Not in my experience, as long as moisture is not continuing to get into the tank. Rust itself is an anti-rust coating. It does not grow like cancer unless moisture is present, and if moisture is present, even an unrusted tank will rust.

I suspect your friend's tank already had one or more pinholes when he thought it was just rusty.

Rusting never stops. There's no passivational protection at junction between dark ferrous oxide underlying steel. Once it starts, it passes captured oxygen between ferrous & ferric layers and continues process. As result, over time, surface-rust will eventually consume entire piece of steel/iron.

Yes, water speeds up process tremendously be providing electrolytes like sodium & chlorine to grab electrons from iron. So keeping moisture off existing rust will slow it down, but will not stop it.

Originally Posted by shspvr

Thing is once rust forms you need stop or it will just keep on rusting Jim and end up with fire bomb but that on you if you don't address it.

Hey, BoB yours should be 5/16" or 8mm size line

This is photo is my neighbor friends oh just happen to get a 1997 Ninja and I told he need to evapo-rust and seal tank guest what he didn't listen and here was the end result from it after a week of ride it that way it was, he leans the hard way by listen to so called buddy.

These tanks are extremely thin and soft steel. Unfortunately, if you've got rust spots from water-accumulation at bottom over time, it's extremely likely they'll punch through at some point. Process of aggressive rust-removal can actually make things worse by punching through remaining layer of good steel. Electrolysis is probably best method as it'll transfer rusted parts off surface and leave underlying metal alone. Chelation reaction of Evaporust is probably similar.

Avoid oxalic acid solutions like plague. Popularised by classic bicycle collectors as it's simple lazy method of rust removal. But that stuff will eat through perfectly good metal at same rate as rust spots. I've done quite a few tube-replacements on classics where all that's left in many spots is just surface paint!

[Triple Jim]

I know many guys who have had to remove Kreem when it started peeling from the inside of the tank. If you decide you really want a tank sealer, Caswell's Phenol-Novolac epoxy is the one thing that will resist what we call "gasoline" today. It's what oil companies line their gasoline storage tanks with. You can also find it in generic form, called "phenolic epoxy".

https://caswellplating.com/caswell-e...l-1-quart.html
https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

https://www.jotun.com/us/en/b2b/pain...d-Storage.aspx

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Rusting never stops. There's no passivational protection at junction between dark ferrous oxide underlying steel.

Have you seen the dark brown light poles along highways? You know what that brown coating is?

[Bob KellyIII]

that Caswell tank treatment looks like really good stuff !
most of the time rust really is not hurting anything but it does slowly erode metal ...which is not good . but living on a ranch most of my life , around tractors and such rust is going to be there and you will play hell getting rid of it !
you can get fanatical about it and try to remove every trace but the fact is that our environment promotes rust in a big way ,and the fact is you'll never stop it completely so you either have to learn to live with it or just use alot of oil on stuff ! LOL....
....
I am a big believer in rustoleum sprey paint that stuff works real good a quick hit with a wire brush and wipe off the dust and then a coat of rustoleum paint and your good for 20 years at least before rust starts rearing it's ugly head....
.... I was thinking of a can of rustoleum and a quart of acetone to clean out the tank good , I think you can buy rustoleum in a pint or quart can. that would be as good as Kreem I am sure, as all it was was white oil base paint.
...BUT that takes warmer weather ...not in the dead of winter that is where the epoxy comes in at... epoxy hardens by itself... if you just take the tank into the house and keep it at room temperature it will dry good and hard in 2 days !
....
....
yah I may have screwed up on the fuel filters as the gas lines are 3/8" I'm fairly sure ..... i got 1/4" filters.... oh well ! I'll use them on the ninja and TT250.
....
Bob.....

[Bob KellyIII]

the problem with sloshing out the tank with acetone is if your gas cap leeks even a little bit you'll loose paint from your pirty tank where it drips on the tank !!!
and I am fairly certain mine leaks !



Bob.....

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Avoid oxalic acid solutions like plague. Popularised by classic bicycle collectors as it's simple lazy method of rust removal. But that stuff will eat through perfectly good metal at same rate as rust spots. I've done quite a few tube-replacements on classics where all that's left in many spots is just surface paint!

That why I put evapo-rust is the best product in situations like this
I much rather have plastic or aluminum, stainless tank

[Bob KellyIII]

Well today was busy here... I took the wife to an eye doctor so he could check on the progress after the surgery for cataracts, she's doing great and can actually see now out of that eye ! on more appointment in January and then it's glasses I guess.
.... I am a bit late in shutting off the outside water this year but got it done today... and I discovered that the shutoff at the corner of the house is toast !
it just spins and spins in either direction ! so I also discovered that I had inadvertently turned off the water to the house ! NOT what I had intended to do at all..... and you guessed it it was that valve that just spins and spins !
so after trying to dig it out a bit and getting the thing to turn ( the handle was stripped out) after busting off the handle I went to get a pair of vice grips to turn the valve end and the wife tells me we have water now... so I stopped what I was doing and covered the pipe ! I'll get to it in the daylight !
I turned off the outside water so it would not freeze up and split the pipes...
and put my shop heater in the pump house to keep it from freezing as well
and dug out the old shop heater and put it back into service both heaters are on the lowest setting I can get.... i just don't want stuff to freeze !
....
had to run to the DMV about the Triumph's license as the DMV was going to cancel the registration because I didn't have insurance on it....(which I do!)
( i had proof of insurance in my wallet and showed them!) but we had to wait 30~45 minutes to do that .AURGH !
she said you might contact your insurance provider and see why they are not reporting it to us !.( Geico insurance.)
....and I did a bunch of emailing to Sara down at CSC motorcycles about my RX4 order and finally got her all squared away....
....
I patted the Triumph's Seat, but that was all I did to her today ! LOL
and the Ninja looks dejected stuffed into the shed so she's out of the snow, but I have no better place for her at the moment.
.... it just seems wrong somehow !
a bike is supposed to be ready to ride, not stuffed off hiding in some corner somewhere !... <grin>
.... I woke up to 1" of snow on the ground this morning but most was gone by this evening.... the high temp for tomorrow is supposed to be 30deg.
i think winter is here ! Burrrrr !
....
later !
Bob......

[Bob KellyIII]

well after ordering the RX4 once again it is now bought and paid for and on it's way...
should be here on jan 9th or so they are using another trucking company out of Michigan
...i just hope their as good as the last ones they had !
but i expect the bike here sooner really as it doesn't take that long to get to there from here.... but...the bike hasn't been picked up yet either so the trucking company may be as slow as molasses on a cold day ! and this is probably their busiest time....
...oh well it will get here...eventually
.....
I now have in line fuel filters on the Triumph 750 and vinyl lines so I can see the fuel flowing....i like that .... and yes the old black lines were old enough to have cracks on the inside so I needed to replace them I don't think they were that old but i don't think they could handle the alcohol in the fuel we have now.
....the vinyl lines I used was a piece of tubing that came with the vacuum pump i ordered I figure if it can handle dot 3 brake fluid it should have no trouble with gasoline ! LOL
...I didn't start the triumph because I didn't have my boots on, just my slip-on's
...and it was getting late... the sun goes down at 4:30pm now, and is dark by 5:00pm !
I hate this "daylight savings time" screwup !...dark before 9:00pm is just wrong !
.....
anyway... all that is left to do on the triumph is put the air boxes back on and give it a run.... then put it into the shed for the winter ! ...and make room for the RX4 !
....
I fired up the 4"x6" metal cutting bandsaw and cut a few pieces of 1"square alum tubing
to check if it will auto shut off.... but no...it doesn't not yet
and it doesn't cut all the way through the metal without me pushing down on the cutting head.... it's a small inconvenience but i'd like it to do that !....it's supposed to !
.......
the problem is I THINK is the gravity feed... as it nears the end of the cut there is hardly any weight on the head but 1" above that there is plenty of weight.... it's messed up some how, but if I take off any more of the adjustment it will be full weight when it starts cutting and that is not what I want.... so I have to think on how to fix that.
I could just add some weight to the head of the saw but that in effect adds more weight to the start of the cutting... so it looks like that is going to happen no matter what I do
i don't know... gott'a ponder this problem a while.... LOL.
....
later all
Bob........

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

I fired up the 4"x6" metal cutting bandsaw and cut a few pieces of 1"square alum tubing
to check if it will auto shut off.... but no...it doesn't not yet
and it doesn't cut all the way through the metal without me pushing down on the cutting head.... it's a small inconvenience but i'd like it to do that !....it's supposed to !

Doesn't it have an adjustable stop so you can set how far the blade comes down? Possibly that bolt and nut that's sticking up to the right (toward motor) from the vise.

[Bob KellyIII]

yes it does... but when it gets to that point there is so little weight on the blade it will stop cutting and not cut through....
so logically you'd think there is too much spring tension on the gravity feed system holding the blade up.... but it already has a huge amount of pressure on the start of the cutting ... cutting a 2" pipe it would have an insane amount of weight on the start of the cut but it decreases to nothing before it cuts through
....it's obviously designed wrong.... or i am using it wrong i don't know which ! LOL
.... I will try decreasing the spring tension to get more weight on the end of the cut... but i fear it will take teeth off the blade or just brake it
.... it seems like all the ones on youtube don't have this problem... they just decrease the gravity feed tension and to hell with the start of the cut pressure
.... so I guess that is what I'll do .... strange way to run a railroad !
....
Bob............

[Triple Jim]

The spring and arm that it pulls on should be designed so that when the saw blade is near vertical, there is little or no tension, and it increases as the blade comes down toward horizontal. If it's designed properly, the blade force will be fairly constant as its height changes.

[Bob KellyIII]

I tightened it up quite a bit and that reduced alot of the cutting force I had way too much for cutting pipe ! LOL....
I got a part coming that should cure 99% if the problems with the band saw
I bought one of Winky's Workshop's riser plates so the blade guides can be in the proper place and still cut through the work piece !
...it's cutting pirty good right now ... fairly square and fairly fast I can't complain at all.
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I just came back in from working on the triumph I got it all back together and running, I fired it up without my boots on even ! took about 6 kicks
but I finally turned on the choke and it fired right up ! DUH !
it's running real good !
I replaced the fuel lines from the tank down although I didn't replace the cross over tube yet... i'll get to that later !
but I now have two in line paper type fuel filters on it !
so I put the air filters on and fought it for over an hour getting those silly things on there and one side is nice and flush like it should be but the other side is not.... so I may well pull it off again and see if I can do better !
... after I did that i fired it up again ( choke this time) with a single kick
and waited till it sounded like it was loading up and slowly took off the choke and then she purred like a kitten !
.....
I got about 1/4" of snow on the ground so there wasn't much temptation to take it for a spin... HAHAHAHA !
....
I haven't touched the Ninja in a month ! I feel guilty !!!!!
....
later !
Bob.........

[DannoXYZ]

woohoo!!!

[shspvr]

woohoo

[Bob KellyIII]

Ok today I fired up the Triumph 750 with one single kick after setting for weeks in the cold shop ...I tickled the carbs and turned the choke on full and turned the key on and kicked it and it fired up first kick and ran fairly decent for being cold as it warmed up it ran better.... I tried taking the choke off before it was totally warm but that didn't work and it died, i put the choke back on and it fired right up.... I moved the Triumph from the shop to the back end of the shed and put it under cover for the winter turned off the gas long before I turned off the key and killed it....then I covered the seat with some scrap heavy cloth in hopes of deterring cat claws !
so the triumph is put away for the winter I'll start it next month and every month till it warms up and I can ride again...
i fired up the Ninja as well it was a bit reluctant to start but it finally did fire up
but it didn't want to run on both cylinders all the time.... which is because of the dirty carbs I think. I don't think the carb cleaner i put in the gas tank did anything ..... no real surprise there !
.....
I did this in preparation for the RX4's arrival... it should be here by the 9th
so I figured sense it wasn't snowing I'd better make room for it in the shop while I can.... I have hand guards to put on the RX4 and new foot pegs so that will get done while it's in the shop !
.....
come summer that shed is going to be cleaned out, so I have room for the bikes in. it right now it's full of stuff and most of it is junk so 90% of it can be hauled off.
....
LOL spring cleaning this year is going to be a bitch.... no doubt about that ! i can hardly wait !
....
Bob......

[Bob KellyIII]

And the Triumph Ran exceedingly good today too I might add.... it idled great
and once it got warm started to act fat so I took off the choke and it cleared up immediately but I had a hell of a time finding neutral !!! i guess the new clutch plates in there are making finding neutral hard .... a few hundred miles on her should cure that I think !
it pains me to park her in the back part of the shed where all the cat poop is at but I have no choice if I want her out of the snow !
and I noticed my brake light in the back didn't work.... I had it working great...what happened ? bulb maybe ? i'll sort it out in the spring I guess !
.....
I got the Triumph out of the shop so for the first time I actually had enough room to work on the band saw and got it cutting a perfect 90 degree cut now
and it shuts itself off after the cut. so I'm quite happy !
WOOT !
.....
Bob.....

[Bob KellyIII]

I got thinking about it and I know better cats WILL hop up on the seat of the Triumph and sharpen their claws till there is a shred of the seat left.....
so I went out there and pulled the seat off and put it in the shop
...better safe than sorry !!!
....
Bob.......

[shspvr]

Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII

I got thinking about it and I know better cats WILL hop up on the seat of the Triumph and sharpen their claws till there is a shred of the seat left.....
so I went out there and pulled the seat off and put it in the shop
...better safe than sorry !!!
....
Bob.......

A board and nails or drywall screws is one solution with bungee cord to hold it down over the seat

[Bob KellyIII]

Or a more humane way of treating our furry friends might be just take off the seat eh ? less hassle and no blood on the bike so it's a win win.....
if you were disadvantaged and only had paws and your wits to keep you alive wouldn't you want to be treated better than that ? if you treat critters like you would like to be treated it goes a long way in building a friendship
these guys were thrust into the world without their choice just like your or I
their as intelligent as you are, they just don't have the fractalities to show it !
they can't talk they have only a rudimentary education that was given to them at a very young age .....
Yes I am sure that would get the POINT across that you don't want them on your seat.... but a board without the nails would suffice too don't you think ? stop thinking like a 1920's farmer and that all animals are dumb and are just food for the table... we have progressed beyond that !
animals are not dumb, Never make that mistake... their frame of reference is so much different than ours it makes them look stupid at times to us... but they are not. add that they have been in the woods all their life and never saw a human up close only compounds the problem with panic ! and Momma told them horror stories about humans....
do you do stupid things when your scared and out of sorts ? ofcourse !
.... think about it... how would you prove to a human that you mean them no harm if your a grizzley bear ? remember you have no education the only thing you know is the wilderness.... and you've never seen a human with a gun before..... and you only have 30 seconds before he shoots you ! do you think you could pull off that task ? i seriously doubt it myself ! it ain't easy being a critter !.... that hunter would come back with the silliest story .....like...
I was sighten' him in with my scope and this bear got down on his front elbows and put his paws together as if to prey....... I shot him anyway ....
all the rest of the bears took off like a shot one ran straight into a tree trying to get away... but this guy faced me and nealed down like that..... it was really weird ! ..... he was a little dumber than the rest I guess !
..... look at it from a critters point of view and humans SUCK !!!
why reinforce that view ? show them not all humans are alike !
.... unless of course you are like all humans and if that's the case there is no hope for ya ! LOL


Bob......