Bleeding brakes - simple and easy

[Somchai]

This is valid for the 300 (plus every and each bike) also.

Stahlbus bleeder valves, please look here: http://www.stahlbus-us.com/

[Motofool]

[Ghostt]

I have those auto bleeders, but I still use the hand vacuum pump, still the fastest, best way.

[DmbShn41]

Sorry to thread jack, but this seemed appropriate thread. Quick question: are the front brakes typically hard to bleed? Even using the conventional method? Before removing old pads, ousted the old pad to apply pressure to caliper Pistons, and cracked the bleeder valve to allow them to compress, closed bleeder valve before removing pressure. Ended having to remove brake line as the caliper slides were stuck. When re-assembling, had to continue bleeding air out, which is rather difficult given the small master cylinder size. Using a bleeder bottle, I feel I have all the air out, and have run a fair amount of fluid through, but have little or no lever stiffness. Lever retracts all the way to handle bar. Caliper moves and grabs rotor, but I can still spin wheel by hand. Any help appreciated.

Thanks~

[crazymadbastard]

The best way I have bled systems that are hard to bleed, is to tap a hole on a spare brake reservoir cap and put a air valve on that -or a quick air connect and pressurize with air up to 10psi and- watch that fluid level- crack bleeder open and be done in a few moments.

[Ghostt]

Best and easiest way to bleed brakes,

HFS Brand 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE..._3Xvgvb0PPV82B

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by DmbShn41

Sorry to thread jack, but this seemed appropriate thread. Quick question: are the front brakes typically hard to bleed? Even using the conventional method? Before removing old pads, ousted the old pad to apply pressure to caliper Pistons, and cracked the bleeder valve to allow them to compress, closed bleeder valve before removing pressure. Ended having to remove brake line as the caliper slides were stuck. When re-assembling, had to continue bleeding air out, which is rather difficult given the small master cylinder size. Using a bleeder bottle, I feel I have all the air out, and have run a fair amount of fluid through, but have little or no lever stiffness. Lever retracts all the way to handle bar. Caliper moves and grabs rotor, but I can still spin wheel by hand. Any help appreciated.

Thanks~

Yes, bike brakes can be very difficult to bleed. The old school method of hand pumping while loosening, then retightening the bleeder can be near impossible. If you don't have the "proper tools" , then you can use the "poor mans" way.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Honestly, even though I have a vac pump, I still use this method most of the time, especially trackside as I don't take my bleeder with me. I aint sure when it became improper to do it like this, but no air... is just that, no air.

[adouglas]

At $40+ EACH, those Stahlbus valves are a bit spendy... but then on the Ninjette you only have the one caliper up front. I don't recall if the M/C has a bleeder on it... IIRC it doesn't.

Stahlbus points out something that I think catches people. When you crack the bleeder, it's supposedly possible for air to seep in through the threads.

I've read elsewhere of putting plumber's teflon tape on the threads to help prevent this:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283074

Side note: Since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) there is no reason to use just part of a bottle when replacing your fluid. That's false economy... by the time you need the rest of the bottle it'll be no good.

Side note #2: Hydraulic fluid is basically oil. It's okay to chuck it in with your waste engine oil for proper disposal.

(Pet peeve: Instructions that say "dispose of properly" with no guidance whatsoever on how to do that.)

[csmith12]

Thread tape... when nothing else will seal it, it's most likely a leaky thread.

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Thread tape... when nothing else will seal it, it's most likely a leaky thread.

On the upper sealing threads near the hex flats in the right direction specifically. I have seen people tape it all the way to the bottom of the threads and get little pieces ripped off and stuck in brake system.

[crazymadbastard]

If the bleeder leaks something else is amiss. Either the breeder is bad or could be rust or scale getting in the way, or the caliper is now junk.

For the bleeding noted above that will work- just don't rely on for sealing a leaking bleeder.

[DmbShn41]

Finally got it. Seemed that I had air behind one of the pistons, and the caliper slide was hydro locked, not allowing the caliper pistons to move. Had to disassemble the caliper slide bracket, clean out gunk I missed. Re-lubed, little less this time, pushed pistons all the way in with the bourse hose off, which cleared the air. From there, hooked up my $8 bleeder bottle from Advanced Auto, pumped a few cycles of fluid through, and that was it. Great lever pressure. Pulled about 35-40 miles of bedding the pads. All is well again. Thanks for the help.

[cadd]

Thanks for the info. I didn't realize you can't bleed the brakes the way you do in a car (2 person job).

Person 1 pumps and holds the brake pedal & tells person 2 to open the nipple
Person 2 opens the nipple and lets the fluid out.
Person 2 closes the nipples and informs Person 1 to release
Person 1 releases brake pedal
Keep repeating until all old fluid is out and no more bubbles.

Sometimes I take a small mallet and gently tap the calipers.....real gently.

Now.....why can't we do it the same way with the bike? How would air be introduced to the line?

[Brother Michigan]

You can absolutely do it this way (I just recently did it when installing my stainless lines), but it's a 1-person job on a bike.

[cadd]

Wait....if you can do it this way and especially since it's a 1 person for the 250/300 (since calipers are on the right side of the bike), why spend money for a vacuum device???

[agentbad]

I just use a cut up plastic bottle as a catch, gloves, dirty shop towels, and my thumb. If you really want speed bleeders murphskits has them. I think the part number is
SB8125L for the newgen at $7 a piece.

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Honestly, even though I have a vac pump, I still use this method most of the time, especially trackside as I don't take my bleeder with me. I aint sure when it became improper to do it like this, but no air... is just that, no air.

Just remember, if you do this with a mtn dew bottle your brakes will stop you quicker afterwards


does anyone ever reuse the brake fluid afterwards? I always put new fluid in but I'm wondering if it can be done safely

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Yes, bike brakes can be very difficult to bleed. The old school method of hand pumping while loosening, then retightening the bleeder can be near impossible. If you don't have the "proper tools" , then you can use the "poor mans" way.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Honestly, even though I have a vac pump, I still use this method most of the time, especially trackside as I don't take my bleeder with me. I aint sure when it became improper to do it like this, but no air... is just that, no air.

i gotta one up ya

get a hose long enough that it will reach all the way up to the MC res.... pump the fluid out of the caliper, back into the res... circulate it for 5 minutes. aint no ****in bubs left after that ****!

[cadd]

Originally Posted by alex.s

i gotta one up ya

get a hose long enough that it will reach all the way up to the MC res.... pump the fluid out of the caliper, back into the res... circulate it for 5 minutes. aint no ****in bubs left after that ****!

Genius!!! For a bike, it's definitely doable. 4ft of tubing would be enough. There's no sense of throwing away the fluid since it's all new fluid anyway! And at the very end, just pour new fluid in the MC if it makes you more comfortable!

[DmbShn41]

And you don't have to refill the master cylinder after 3 pumps...wish I would have thought of that....

[Brother Michigan]

Originally Posted by cadd

Wait....if you can do it this way and especially since it's a 1 person for the 250/300 (since calipers are on the right side of the bike), why spend money for a vacuum device???

Because it takes forever. I took about two hours to replace my brake lines, and about an hour and a half of it was bleeding.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by alex.s

i gotta one up ya

get a hose long enough that it will reach all the way up to the MC res.... pump the fluid out of the caliper, back into the res... circulate it for 5 minutes. aint no ****in bubs left after that ****!

omg duh, soooo simple

[Hero Danny]

sorta unrelated: My car's brakes really need to be done soon.... I've been putting it off for a while now.. Not sure if the system needs to be bled or not. pads have some meat to them, but the pedal feels so squishy. So I guess there must be air, funny cause the brake level has been near full the entire time I've owned the car.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

sorta unrelated: My car's brakes really need to be done soon.... I've been putting it off for a while now.. Not sure if the system needs to be bled or not. pads have some meat to them, but the pedal feels so squishy. So I guess there must be air, funny cause the brake level has been near full the entire time I've owned the car.

Yep, you got air or the fluid needs flushed. I need to do my durango fronts, again....

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by Brother Michigan

Because it takes forever. I took about two hours to replace my brake lines, and about an hour and a half of it was bleeding.

zip tie the brake lever into the brake position overnight before, makes it easier or so I'm told

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

sorta unrelated: My car's brakes really need to be done soon.... I've been putting it off for a while now.. Not sure if the system needs to be bled or not. pads have some meat to them, but the pedal feels so squishy. So I guess there must be air, funny cause the brake level has been near full the entire time I've owned the car.

worn pads will give you an iffi feeling too. Suggest new rotors and pads. Rock auto.com is excellent. Buy best you can afford.

What I do is pinch brake lines after protecting them with an old hose and vice grips- crack bleeder open and try caliper apart. This does 3 things- gets rid of old fluid in calipers and prevents same crap old gunk from finding its way back up the system and makes getting caliper retracted easier. suck out old brake reservoir fluid with a turkey baster and fill with fresh- continue to bleed as normal.

[agentbad]

Originally Posted by Brother Michigan

Because it takes forever. I took about two hours to replace my brake lines, and about an hour and a half of it was bleeding.

[Brother Michigan]

Originally Posted by Sirref

zip tie the brake lever into the brake position overnight before, makes it easier or so I'm told

Oh, I did that, too; it took me that long just to get the big bubbles out.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

worn pads will give you an iffi feeling too. Suggest new rotors and pads. Rock auto.com is excellent. Buy best you can afford.

What I do is pinch brake lines after protecting them with an old hose and vice grips- crack bleeder open and try caliper apart. This does 3 things- gets rid of old fluid in calipers and prevents same crap old gunk from finding its way back up the system and makes getting caliper retracted easier. suck out old brake reservoir fluid with a turkey baster and fill with fresh- continue to bleed as normal.

We checked my brake pads 6 months ago and they had some good life left to them.