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Old August 11th, 2014, 10:54 AM   #201
CZroe
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Anyone know how to install/remove the bushings on the very end (not the copper ones)?

I dropped off several fork tubes at Traxxion Dynamics and they sent them back with those parts removed. There is a cut so they will probably flex over the end but I just want to be sure that doing so doesn't mess anything up. Also, are they directional? When should they be relaced? Many of them show imperfections in the textured surface.

Do the copper ones slide right off? I'm trying to remember if I put them with the rest of my fork parts or if they were on the tubes when I dropped them off (removed everything I kmew how to remove).
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Old August 11th, 2014, 05:26 PM   #202
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Hmm. never tore down my forks that far. I would think @dino74 would know more.

I'm guess the copper ones should slide right off. Might be a tad snug fit.
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Old October 15th, 2014, 09:45 AM   #203
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Question for everyone saying not to use thread locker on the bottom bolt:
I have an impact tool and extended hex adapters which are long enough to extract the bolt. I used this to do it without a bench vise or the partially-inserted axel trick. Is there any reason for me to avoid it? I simply don't want the thread locker contaminating my oil but the only concern I saw expressed was being able to get it out again in the future.

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Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
Hmm. never tore down my forks that far. I would think @dino74 would know more.

I'm guess the copper ones should slide right off. Might be a tad snug fit.
I just flexed them right on. Anyway, I have since rebuilt two more sets of forks but I take forever and try to follow directions to the letter as if I don't know what I am doing.

I tried to follow the Clymer manual this time and wanted to share a few notes. I had to reference this DIY more often than the Clymer manual Because they stupidly put the measurements in a table at the end of the chapter which you can't easily reference with oil all over your hands. They had tables at the beginning of the chapter and at the end and it didn't tell you what page or set of tables it was in!

Next, they tell you to take the fork protectors off when there is absolutely no reason. I did for the heck of it and you probably need a second person (I pushed up with two thumbs while my brother pulled off from the top).

Another issue is that they clearly call the lowers "sliders" but then call the fork tubes "sliders" when telling you to use oiled Saran wrap to get the seals on! I was very confused because there were no pictures and everything I could imagine would leave bits of Saran wrap stuck in the forks. What they meant was to use oiled Saran wrap to slip the seals over the tops of the fork tubes before sliding all the way down and driving them into the lowers/sliders.

Lastly, there are NO useful pictures for determining the correct orientation of the seals. I took so long to assemble these that I could not be sure how they were oriented before they came apart. The only mention in he Clymer manual was saying that the "open end" should be oriented out. Uhh... which end is the "open end," geniuses? I had a hunch how they were supposed to be oriented based on how I remembered hammering them in the first time and yet the only end that looked more "open" than the other is the one I remembered going down/in the fork lower (exactly opposite to what they were telling me). Sure enough, one look here tells me that I was right and their advice was useless. At least as far as OEM seals go, the end with a flatter top and a slimmer groove goes up and the end with the wider groove and more open top goes in.
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Old June 25th, 2020, 01:53 PM   #204
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Is that 12.2 oz split between both fork legs or is that per side?
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Old June 25th, 2020, 08:48 PM   #205
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I'm going to reply to myself to maybe help someone else out. I wanted to take a shortcut and just pour a set volume of fluid into the forks. I confirmed the volume per leg in this DIY is correct, however the aftermarket spring which I swapped out is considerably thicker and has more coils in 5mm less length, and DING DING DING.. displaces more fluid. Moral of the story is don't take shortcuts.
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Old June 25th, 2020, 09:27 PM   #206
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Another way to measure is drop ruler down from top and measure distance to top of fluid.
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Old June 26th, 2020, 06:35 PM   #207
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I did mine with a wire bent to 130mm inserted into the fork.
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Old June 29th, 2020, 09:46 AM   #208
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So I used my vacuum brake bleeder and just measured 130mmm of length from the end of the end of the tube. Stick that in and pump out all the excess. Made it a super quick job.
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