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Old July 10th, 2012, 06:17 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by Gorilla25 View Post
Just got done not too long ago. Total time apx 4 hrs. disassembly and reassembly honestly took WAY longer than the actual changing of the seals. I've been posting and updating for a while but it seems like im just talking to myself. oh well. some day someone will actually read this and may be able to pick up a tip or two.

about getting that allen bolt loose on the bottom of the forks...I figured out a way to get it loose without putting it in a vise..mainly because i dont have one. i haven't found this method while searching so i'll type it out and try to describe because i did not have a second set of hands to take pictures.

This step is done before removing the forks from the tripple tree. Once you have the front tire off, put the allen wrench into one of the bolts. Now slide the axle bolt back on from the other fork to the one you are working on. push bolt until it touches the allen wrench. This keeps the fork from rotating when breaking the bolt loose. Now get something that can give you leverage, if you dont already have, then just break the bolt loose. Dont screw it out or even couple turns. oil will def. leak out. now repeat for the other side and continue with removing the forks etc.. heres a pic for the visual people:



EDIT: the 10w oil does stiffen up the front just a touch. will decide later if i still will do the preload adjuster DIY or not.
What exactly is this bottom bolt for? Did you completely drain the forks from the bottom when you loosened it? I'm getting ready to change my seals tomorrow. Thanks!
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Old July 10th, 2012, 06:24 PM   #122
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What exactly is this bottom bolt for? Did you completely drain the forks from the bottom when you loosened it? I'm getting ready to change my seals tomorrow. Thanks!
Yes. It's the drain bolt and you can't take it apart without removing it.
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Old July 10th, 2012, 08:48 PM   #123
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It's not a drain bolt. It keeps the innards secured to the bottom.
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Old July 10th, 2012, 09:16 PM   #124
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ahh..you both responded before i could..lol
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Old July 10th, 2012, 11:57 PM   #125
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Crap...I wish I would've just loosened the bottom bolt, then drained it from the top end, lol.
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Old July 22nd, 2012, 08:46 PM   #126
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dumb question: just purchased an 09 ex250 over the weekend and I'm in the process of changing my fork seals via the flow chart above (thanks for posting this btw, very helpful) However, my forks don't have un-screwable caps, so I'm not sure how get the new oil in the forks... I know, I need to get a clymer manual... Sorry for the dumb question and thanks in advance for the help!
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 12:18 AM   #127
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dumb question: just purchased an 09 ex250 over the weekend and I'm in the process of changing my fork seals via the flow chart above (thanks for posting this btw, very helpful) However, my forks don't have un-screwable caps, so I'm not sure how get the new oil in the forks... I know, I need to get a clymer manual... Sorry for the dumb question and thanks in advance for the help!

we dont have unscrewable caps either. you push the cap down with a screwdriver or something and then take a precision flat-head screwdriver or small knife and take out the retainer clip. then the cap will pop off no problem.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 06:17 AM   #128
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we dont have unscrewable caps either. you push the cap down with a screwdriver or something and then take a precision flat-head screwdriver or small knife and take out the retainer clip. then the cap will pop off no problem.
Yep, but remember that they have to be completely unloaded/dangling with no weight on them, so you can't just push down on a loose fork. I find that it's easier to do on the bike if you have a way to get the front wheel off the ground (kinda required if you are removing the forks anyway ). I used a triple-tree bike stand and then used a $10 puller tool from Lowe's (plumbing section). The puller tool has arms that you can hook to the triple tree clamp and a threaded center rod that pushes down when you turn it, which holds the cap down so you can take as long as you want to remove the clips. Pick one up when you get the length of PVC needed to hammer the new seals in (same section).
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 06:24 AM   #129
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Interesting, I've never owned a bike with caps like this... thanks!
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 12:09 PM   #130
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anytime
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 08:45 PM   #131
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I own a 2009 ninja 250r with only 2k miles on it and the right fork is leaking. I plan on replacing the seal myself as well.

I ordered at set of fork seals, they should arrive by next week. Is there anything else I need? I already have everything from the list that was mentioned in the original post. Is there anything else I need? Does everything I take out of the forks will go back nicely? Is there anything that needed to be replaced in the process or may get damaged from the disassemble?

I read on and a member mention circlip and snap ring. I do need a Snap Ring Pliers?
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 09:49 PM   #132
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I own a 2009 ninja 250r with only 2k miles on it and the right fork is leaking. I plan on replacing the seal myself as well.

I ordered at set of fork seals, they should arrive by next week. Is there anything else I need? I already have everything from the list that was mentioned in the original post. Is there anything else I need? Does everything I take out of the forks will go back nicely? Is there anything that needed to be replaced in the process or may get damaged from the disassemble?

I read on and a member mention circlip and snap ring. I do need a Snap Ring Pliers?
I wish I knew what they sealed the bottom drain bolts with on mine (some kind of thread tape?). Also, did you get dust seals too?

I wonder why it's ALWAYS the right fork. Hmm.
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 10:14 PM   #133
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I wish I knew what they sealed the bottom drain bolts with on mine (some kind of thread tape?). Also, did you get dust seals too?

I wonder why it's ALWAYS the right fork. Hmm.
I ordered Leak Proof Seals Pro-Moly Fork Seals/Wiper Seals 42440, I think they are included.
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Old November 3rd, 2012, 05:21 AM   #134
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I ordered at set of fork seals, they should arrive by next week. Is there anything else I need? I already have everything from the list that was mentioned in the original post. Is there anything else I need? Does everything I take out of the forks will go back nicely? Is there anything that needed to be replaced in the process or may get damaged from the disassemble?

I read on and a member mention circlip and snap ring. I do need a Snap Ring Pliers?
You need fork oil. I have a pregen and I used 15W. I don't think the forks are that different. Just be observant about the disassembly order so you can put things back in the right order.

You'll also need some fine grit sandpaper (400 or higher) and steel wool for removing any rust. If there are any pits or scores, you need JB-weld (4 min kind) to fill them and sandpaper to smooth it.

The pregen needs 1.25" internal circlips. I don't know if the newgen needs the same or not, or if so, what size. And yes, you need the circlip pliers.

If its set up the same as the pregen, you will need a small wheel puller to push the cap down while you fish out the old retaining ring. This is done while the tubes are still in the forks.

The pregen needs a long allen wrench to remove the retaining bolt at the bottom of the fork. I'm not sure if the newgen has that or not. If so, it was a pain finding something long enough to reach. I think I ended up using the long part of a regular allen wrench with a pair of vice grips to turn it.

Also, you don't want to use thread locker on that bolt or you'll never get it out again.

EDIT: One more thing was a 12cc syringe and a 12 Gauge needle. I used that to keep the oil height consistent. I poured in a little more than the approximate amount and then used the syringe (hung over the edge of the tube) and then used the syringe to remove the excess. Whatever method you use, I think its more important to keep them even than at a particular level.
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Old November 3rd, 2012, 10:08 AM   #135
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You need fork oil. I have a pregen and I used 15W. I don't think the forks are that different. Just be observant about the disassembly order so you can put things back in the right order.

You'll also need some fine grit sandpaper (400 or higher) and steel wool for removing any rust. If there are any pits or scores, you need JB-weld (4 min kind) to fill them and sandpaper to smooth it.

The pregen needs 1.25" internal circlips. I don't know if the newgen needs the same or not, or if so, what size. And yes, you need the circlip pliers.

If its set up the same as the pregen, you will need a small wheel puller to push the cap down while you fish out the old retaining ring. This is done while the tubes are still in the forks.

The pregen needs a long allen wrench to remove the retaining bolt at the bottom of the fork. I'm not sure if the newgen has that or not. If so, it was a pain finding something long enough to reach. I think I ended up using the long part of a regular allen wrench with a pair of vice grips to turn it.

Also, you don't want to use thread locker on that bolt or you'll never get it out again.

EDIT: One more thing was a 12cc syringe and a 12 Gauge needle. I used that to keep the oil height consistent. I poured in a little more than the approximate amount and then used the syringe (hung over the edge of the tube) and then used the syringe to remove the excess. Whatever method you use, I think its more important to keep them even than at a particular level.
Thanks a lot for the tips. This is kind of a big project for me. I'll approach it carefully. I'm going to film it so if I forget something I can go back and look at it. I'll keep you posted and thanks again for taking the time to help out a newbie! I really appreciate it.
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Old November 3rd, 2012, 12:16 PM   #136
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Thanks a lot for the tips. This is kind of a big project for me. I'll approach it carefully. I'm going to film it so if I forget something I can go back and look at it. I'll keep you posted and thanks again for taking the time to help out a newbie! I really appreciate it.
To be honest, the most difficult part is going to find a way to support it in a stable manner so you can work on it. Obviously you can't support it by the forks. I just used the center stand, but that's not an option for the newgen.
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Old November 3rd, 2012, 12:41 PM   #137
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To be honest, the most difficult part is going to find a way to support it in a stable manner
head stand.

I plan on picking one up this winter since I ditched my center stand and it's annoying to not have a way to get the front off the ground in a non-ghetto-rigged manner.

A headstand and swingarm stand from TRexx is about $170 for the pair, and those are decent (not the best, not the worst) stands that will do fine.
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Old November 3rd, 2012, 05:41 PM   #138
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To be honest, the most difficult part is going to find a way to support it in a stable manner so you can work on it. Obviously you can't support it by the forks. I just used the center stand, but that's not an option for the newgen.
I have a rear stand. I plan on using my car jack to lift the front end up like in the original post. Do you know where is the safe lifting point under the engine?
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Old November 3rd, 2012, 05:59 PM   #139
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I have a rear stand. I plan on using my car jack to lift the front end up like in the original post. Do you know where is the safe lifting point under the engine?
You can put a board under the engine under the oil filter and use a floor jack. If the newgen is like the pregen enough, there is a cross member that connects through the bottom of the radiator and to the front engine mount. You might be able to put a jack stand under that. However, you would still need to find some way to keep it stable.
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Old November 3rd, 2012, 09:08 PM   #140
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That little metal piece that attaches the radiator?? no don't put weight on that.

take a smalle piece of wood, and drill a 1" diameter hole into it with a drill. Put that under the engine, with the oil filter bolt in the hole, and put the jack under the wood. Carefully lift it. Slowly. Be gentle with everything you do, as this 3-legged stance is not the most stable work platform ever.

Only lift the front after the back is stable on a stand, or your bike will fall over.

That's why it's always best to own at least a swingarm stand, or a swingarm and head stand.
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Old November 4th, 2012, 05:03 AM   #141
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That little metal piece that attaches the radiator?? no don't put weight on that.
Little but not weak. Its chromoly steel. It will support the front of the bike no problem. But if it worries you, you can temporarily replace it with a small piece of angle iron and use that. Its held by the front engine mounts so its plenty strong. Use a long enough piece of angle iron and you can support that between two jack stands. That should be stable enough.

Some people (I think the OP is one of them if I recall) support the bike from overhead as well. One time I used a large stepladder over the bike with ratcheting straps holding the triple tree. It wouldn't hurt to do that too just as an added safety measure.

BTW, unless you have a specific reason to do so, don't remove the triple tree. Its not necessary. The reason I say that is because there are DIY's out there that say to do that and its a lot of extra work for nothing.

EDIT: I'm talking about the pregen regarding the metal brace. I'm not sure if the newgen even has one or not.

EDIT2: I checked the diagrams over at ron ayers and I couldn't find that cross piece on the newgen diagrams. Anyhow, you could still put a piece of angle iron across the lower front engine mounts and use that.
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Old November 4th, 2012, 07:58 AM   #142
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Yeah, the bike falling over is one of my biggest fear. I'm going to make sure it well supported before I do anything.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 09:52 AM   #143
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Where is a good place to buy the fork seals? I placed an order with powersportsSuperstore.com and it took forever to ship. I called in and canceled it. Don't place your order there!
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Old November 6th, 2012, 04:05 PM   #144
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I got mine from a guy on ebay who sells them. They were made by somebody like "All Balls" or something like that. The were real reasonable. I think I paid something like $20 with free shipping and included the dust covers.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 05:05 PM   #145
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I got mine from a guy on ebay who sells them. They were made by somebody like "All Balls" or something like that. The were real reasonable. I think I paid something like $20 with free shipping and included the dust covers.
couldn't find that guy on ebay so I ordered Leak Proof Seals Pro-Moly Fork Seals/Wiper Seals powersportsplus.com.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 06:41 PM   #146
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You didn't like this guy?

BIKEMASTER FORK OIL SEAL KAWASAKI NINJA 250 08-11 $10.99 + free shipping

The ones I got were rock solid.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 09:10 AM   #147
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You didn't like this guy?

BIKEMASTER FORK OIL SEAL KAWASAKI NINJA 250 08-11 $10.99 + free shipping

The ones I got were rock solid.
Apples to oranges: That seller isn't including the dust/wiper seals.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 10:40 AM   #148
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Apples to oranges: That seller isn't including the dust/wiper seals.

The point being that ebay is a good source for fork seals right now. When I got mine, it came with dust seals. But most of the time you don't need to buy the dust seals. Not unless your dust covers are actually cracked or damaged in some way.

Here's another one from ebay for $25 that includes the dust covers and free shipping. All Balls is the one I got and it was pretty good. Unfortunately, its probably too late for the OP.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 10:51 AM   #149
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The point being that ebay is a good source for fork seals right now. When I got mine, it came with dust seals. But most of the time you don't need to buy the dust seals. Not unless your dust covers are actually cracked or damaged in some way.

Here's another one from ebay for $25 that includes the dust covers and free shipping. All Balls is the one I got and it was pretty good. Unfortunately, its probably too late for the OP.
the second seller was a really good deal...it's too late for me now! but i will save this for later if I need to replace them again...these seals seem to get damaged every couple of thousand miles. thanks a lot.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 12:37 PM   #150
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these seals seem to get damaged every couple of thousand miles. thanks a lot.
If that is true then you may have something wrong with your forks. Rust and pits are the prime suspects when that happens. Do your forks have any rust near the dust covers?

Anyhow, when you put them back on, you need to use steel wool to get the surface rust off, then fine 400 grit sandpaper for the tougher rust, and JB-weld for the pits and gouges (followed by more sanding).
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Old November 7th, 2012, 01:00 PM   #151
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If that is true then you may have something wrong with your forks. Rust and pits are the prime suspects when that happens. Do your forks have any rust near the dust covers?

Anyhow, when you put them back on, you need to use steel wool to get the surface rust off, then fine 400 grit sandpaper for the tougher rust, and JB-weld for the pits and gouges (followed by more sanding).
Yeah, it had some rust on the right fork. I sanded it with 600grit sandpaper and smoothed everything out, but it was too late. The damage was done.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 03:10 PM   #152
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If its set up the same as the pregen, you will need a small wheel puller to push the cap down while you fish out the old retaining ring. This is done while the tubes are still in the forks.
It it ok if I do this first before taking the front wheel off? Because I dont' have a front stand it might be more stable to push down with the front wheel still on.

On the side note: What is this "Inside the lower cylinder is a pin with a small spring and a silver tapered cap. These will fall out once you pull the fork apart" that the OP mentioned? I didn't see it in any of his pictures. Is it easy to put back. I don't want to lose it when I pull the fork out.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 03:43 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by slowninja View Post
It it ok if I do this first before taking the front wheel off? Because I dont' have a front stand it might be more stable to push down with the front wheel still on.

On the side note: What is this "Inside the lower cylinder is a pin with a small spring and a silver tapered cap. These will fall out once you pull the fork apart" that the OP mentioned? I didn't see it in any of his pictures. Is it easy to put back. I don't want to lose it when I pull the fork out.
You need to unload the forks first, which means getting that front wheel off the ground. The best way is with a triple tree head stand. Also, you can use a $10 puller tool from the plumbing section of Lowe's to do it without pushing down at all.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 06:14 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
You need to unload the forks first, which means getting that front wheel off the ground. The best way is with a triple tree head stand. Also, you can use a $10 puller tool from the plumbing section of Lowe's to do it without pushing down at all.
I'm on a pinch, no budget for a triple stand. I don't know what the puller tool looks like. Can you google a picture of it please. The dealer wanted $280 to get the fork seals replaced, including oil, labor and parts. I'm trying to get this done at around $50.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 06:48 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by slowninja View Post
I'm on a pinch, no budget for a triple stand. I don't know what the puller tool looks like. Can you google a picture of it please. The dealer wanted $280 to get the fork seals replaced, including oil, labor and parts. I'm trying to get this done at around $50.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_332072-943-0...ing&facetInfo=
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Old November 7th, 2012, 07:12 PM   #156
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thanks
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Old November 7th, 2012, 07:46 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowninja View Post
I'm on a pinch, no budget for a triple stand. I don't know what the puller tool looks like. Can you google a picture of it please. The dealer wanted $280 to get the fork seals replaced, including oil, labor and parts. I'm trying to get this done at around $50.
You should be able to do it for $50. Seals + fork oil + puller. Fork oil is around $10 for a quart and that's plenty for both sides.

You might call some of your local tool rental places to see if they will rent a motorcycle head stand. That would be the best, but if not, then there are other ways explained in other posts that will get the job done too.

I personally like my jack stand method as illustrated below. If the radiator supports aren't as strong as the pregen, you can still take most of the weight off with a jack under the engine. The jack stands on both sides keep it stable.
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Old November 8th, 2012, 12:52 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by n4mwd View Post
You should be able to do it for $50. Seals + fork oil + puller. Fork oil is around $10 for a quart and that's plenty for both sides.

You might call some of your local tool rental places to see if they will rent a motorcycle head stand. That would be the best, but if not, then there are other ways explained in other posts that will get the job done too.

I personally like my jack stand method as illustrated below. If the radiator supports aren't as strong as the pregen, you can still take most of the weight off with a jack under the engine. The jack stands on both sides keep it stable.
Very nice drawing! So far I am doing really well with the budget. I just bought the puller tool. $10 at lowes

Do you know the correct threading of the rear spools. I went to Lowes and bought the M10-1.50 matric bolt. It was too big so I went back and bought the M8-1.25 bolt and it was too small. I wonder what the OP used in his spools.
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Old November 8th, 2012, 01:29 PM   #159
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Very nice drawing! So far I am doing really well with the budget. I just bought the puller tool. $10 at lowes

Do you know the correct threading of the rear spools. I went to Lowes and bought the M10-1.50 matric bolt. It was too big so I went back and bought the M8-1.25 bolt and it was too small. I wonder what the OP used in his spools.
Many people have complained that they needed to re-tap the threads. Kawi probably painted the swingarm after tapping the holes. I forget the pitch, but I think it is M10. Did you try M10x1.25?
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Old November 8th, 2012, 07:41 PM   #160
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Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
Many people have complained that they needed to re-tap the threads. Kawi probably painted the swingarm after tapping the holes. I forget the pitch, but I think it is M10. Did you try M10x1.25?
I didn't see M10-1.25 at Lowes. I think I'll just re-tap the spools with a different thread, 3/8-24 or something.

By the way, is it necessary to remove the side fairings to get the folks out? It looks like I can loosen up the clamps without removing fairing. I am missing something?
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