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Old November 8th, 2012, 07:48 PM   #161
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Originally Posted by slowninja View Post
I didn't see M10-1.25 at Lowes. I think I'll just re-tap the spools with a different thread, 3/8-24 or something.

By the way, is it necessary to remove the side fairings to get the folks out? It looks like I can loosen up the clamps without removing fairing. I am missing something?
Might be hard to torque them right without more room for the torque wrench.
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Old November 9th, 2012, 10:05 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
Might be hard to torque them right without more room for the torque wrench.
What is the correct torque on the clamps?
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Old November 9th, 2012, 10:29 AM   #163
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What is the correct torque on the clamps?
I counted the turns (since there's a mark)
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Old November 15th, 2012, 08:49 PM   #164
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My Leak Proof Seals came in today. At first glance, the wiper seals are not as good as the OEM in comparsion. I am considering reusing the OEM wiper seals. I haven't seem the factory oil seals so I can't comment on that. It comes with extra washers that supposed to go on top of the Leak Proof oil seals or forks will leak, says in the intructions. I've brought everything and ready to install them this weekend and see if they do the trick.
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Old November 17th, 2012, 08:57 AM   #165
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how do you get the axel nut off? is it the same as the normal bolt or reverse?
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Old November 17th, 2012, 09:36 AM   #166
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got it off... wow that thing was on there.
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Old November 17th, 2012, 04:24 PM   #167
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finally got it done with the help of my dad. you really need a second set of hands to do this. it took longer than i thought, approx. 6 hours...i was also taking my time cleaning everything...i'm too tired to go for a test ride tonight, but i rocked the bike up and down and no leaks. the seals seems to hold.
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Old November 17th, 2012, 05:00 PM   #168
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i have 2009 model. when i yanked the fork apart, i didn't see a pin with a small spring in the lower cylinder. i did see a silver tapered cap. i hope i didn't lose them and idea on this. i'm sure if they're i would have seem them or found them on the floor if they feel out. any ideas?
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Old January 30th, 2013, 09:53 PM   #169
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Going to replace the seals soon. Just wanted to provide some clarification:

The 08-09 factory service manual calls for "SHOWA SS08 or equivalent SAE 10W." The original post should be amended to include this info @Alex so people don't rush out and buy 5W.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 09:57 PM   #170
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Going to replace the seals soon. Just wanted to provide some clarification:

The 08-09 factory service manual calls for "SHOWA SS08 or equivalent SAE 10W." The original post should be amended to include this info @Alex so people don't rush out and buy 5W.
Like I did.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 11:51 PM   #171
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Old February 16th, 2013, 02:14 PM   #172
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I hope this thread isnt to old, but I am in need of some help. I had took apart both my front forks and replace the seals. After doing so I filled them and re-installed but I have no pressure? Did I not fill them correctly? I did everything like this write up says but I am not getting any pressure to keep the bike up it just bottoms out. How I installed the lower cylinder is as follows, the the small tapered cap where the bottom allen screw goes through at the very bottom with the tapered part pointing to the top. Next I put in about 2 inch spring on top of the tapered thing then the pin/ nail looking thing with the o ring/flat part towrds the top of the fork, then the bushing and washer of the upper cylinder then the oil ring, snap ring, dust seal, then installed, put the spring the washer then the collar/spacer thing in compressed the shock then filled with 12.2 oz of oil. installed the black piece at the very top with the circlip thing and there is no pressure in either shock. Have I installed some parts wrong? When I installed the the pieces into the lower cylinder the spring could move around freely between the bottom of the lower cylinder and the top of the tapered nail thing. I thought this was kinda odd but thats how it looks in the write up. Am I supposed to put the spring on the very top of the tapered nail looking think that screws into the bottom of the lower cylinder? I dunno Im lost and shock oil is expensive any help or advice would be very helpful. I have the service manual but it doesn't really describe in detail the parts and where they go in the lower cylinder.




Last futzed with by fire; February 16th, 2013 at 02:30 PM. Reason: add photo
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Old February 16th, 2013, 02:19 PM   #173
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I hope this thread isnt to old, but I am in need of some help. I had took apart both my front forks and replace the seals. After doing so I filled them and re-installed but I have no pressure? Did I not fill them correctly? I did everything like this write up says but I am not getting any pressure to keep the bike up it just bottoms out. How I installed the lower cylinder is as follows, the the small tapered cap where the bottom allen screw goes through at the very bottom with the tapered part pointing to the top. Next I put in about 2 inch spring on top of the tapered thing then the pin/ nail looking thing with the o ring/flat part towrds the top of the fork, then the bushing and washer of the upper cylinder then the oil ring, snap ring, dust seal, then installed, put the spring the washer then the collar/spacer thing in compressed the shock then filled with 12.2 oz of oil. installed the black piece at the very top with the circlip thing and there is no pressure in either shock. Have I installed some parts wrong? When I installed the the pieces into the lower cylinder the spring could move around freely between the bottom of the lower cylinder and the top of the tapered nail thing. I thought this was kinda odd but thats how it looks in the write up. Am I supposed to put the spring on the very top of the tapered nail looking think that screws into the bottom of the lower cylinder? I dunno Im lost and shock oil is expensive any help or advice would be very helpful. I have the service manual but it doesn't really describe in detail the parts and where they go in the lower cylinder.
I don't see where you reinstalled the big springs. Did you misplace them because they were oily and needed to be set someplace different than the small wipe-able parts?
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Old February 16th, 2013, 02:30 PM   #174
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I don't see where you reinstalled the big springs. Did you misplace them because they were oily and needed to be set someplace different than the small wipe-able parts?
Springs? Has in two per fork or the one big spring about 2 ft long? If you are asking about the big spring yes I installed it. It went into the upper cylinder followed by the washer and spacer/collar/cylinder thing followed by the black cap at the top of the shock.

I just edited my original post to show how I put them back together and what I am referring to when I say small tapered thing etc.
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Old February 16th, 2013, 02:41 PM   #175
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Springs? Has in two per fork or the one big spring about 2 ft long? If you are asking about the big spring yes I installed it. It went into the upper cylinder followed by the washer and spacer/collar/cylinder thing followed by the black cap at the top of the shock.

I just edited my original post to show how I put them back together and what I am referring to when I say small tapered thing etc.
Yep.

Are you sure it's bottomed out? Did you put enough oil inside? I'd measure in a cup and add the right amount while they are mounted and suspended.

Another curiosity: Did you hammer the seals in? I used PVC pipe instead of a seal driver.
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Old February 16th, 2013, 02:50 PM   #176
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Yep.

Are you sure it's bottomed out? Did you put enough oil inside? I'd measure in a cup and add the right amount while they are mounted and suspended.

Another curiosity: Did you hammer the seals in? I used PVC pipe instead of a seal driver.
I went to the stealership and orderd everything, including a measuring device etc. I used the pvc method as well to get the new oil seal in, with the old oil seal on top and hammering it down into place. There is no leaks so I am assuming the oil seal took.

Yes I can hear a like bang noise that sounds like metal on metal. I am only getting maybe 3 inches of travel as well.

Is the smaller spring about 2 inches in length supposed to be able to move freely up and down in the lower cylinder between the very bottom of the cylinder with the small tapered cap and top of the nail/tapered cylinder thing? I thought that was kinda weird almost like the spring should be on the top of the nail thing.

Also does the nail/tapered cylinder fit into the upper cylinder? like should the upper cylinder slide down and over that nail/cylinder thing and rest on the smaller spring?

From what you can see/read in my little picture does that look correct?
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Old February 16th, 2013, 05:38 PM   #177
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You reassembled incorrectly. The "Nail Tapered Cylinder" goes into the inner fork, aka your "upper cylinder.

The small tapered cup goes into the lower, outer fork. Everything else goes into the inner fork.
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Old February 16th, 2013, 05:57 PM   #178
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You reassembled incorrectly. The "Nail Tapered Cylinder" goes into the inner fork, aka your "upper cylinder.

The small tapered cup goes into the lower, outer fork. Everything else goes into the inner fork.
Ok, cool thanks now it makes sense look at the service manual as well. Thanks for all of your guy's help

Last futzed with by fire; February 16th, 2013 at 06:19 PM. Reason: correction
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Old March 25th, 2013, 04:01 PM   #179
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I did not see the edit and ordered 5w and already put everything back together with the 5w. What will be the difference with 5w, should I take everything apart and order 10w and then put everything back together again. I have time before I can ride again.
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Old March 25th, 2013, 04:17 PM   #180
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I would drain it and put in 10w. The front has the weight of the engine on it. There's probably a good reason Kawasaki used 10w instead of 5w.
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Old March 26th, 2013, 09:44 AM   #181
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I am going to try out the bike with the 5w and see if I have any problems. I weigh around 195 so if I have any issues I will drain and switch to 10w.
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Old March 26th, 2013, 11:17 AM   #182
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It's going to nosedive more quickly when you brake, and it might try to pogo a bit on fast sweepers. The weight of the oil determines how much damping you have. Less damping = faster compression and rebound of the fork.
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Old March 26th, 2013, 12:12 PM   #183
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Yeah it seems like the forks compress more easily.
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Old March 26th, 2013, 02:22 PM   #184
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I weigh 190 and 10w is perfect on the road. I would hate 5w.
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Old April 1st, 2013, 05:47 AM   #185
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great write up!
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Old April 16th, 2013, 09:58 AM   #186
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Perhaps 5W would be OK with some preload spacers?
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Old April 16th, 2013, 10:23 AM   #187
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Perhaps 5W would be OK with some preload spacers?
I am still running the 5W and the bike seems fine to me. It does not dip down drastically on hard braking and takes bumps nicely. I may just keep the 5W until it is time to change the oil again. But I am also not racing the bike and just use the bike for cruising around and for the fuel savings.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 12:05 PM   #188
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Quote:
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Perhaps 5W would be OK with some preload spacers?
No, not the same thing.

Oil thickness controls damping. This controls how quickly the forks move.

Preload controls how much weight the forks require before they start compressing. This is how you set ride height. Note that preload does not affect the actual spring rate, it just adjusts how far the forks compress under static load. This is why the solution for having the wrong spring rate is getting new springs, not adding preload.

5W oil will give a nice plush ride because it creates little damping. However, this will come at the expense of a little front end feel. Also, it's more likely to experiencing pogo-ing with light fork oil because this reduced damping.

Oil thickness depends on the preference of the rider. Finding the right damping is about finding the compromise between feel and comfort, especially because both the rebound and compression damping are controlled by the same fork oil. We don't have fancy forks that can adjust those separately.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 07:51 PM   #189
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No, not the same thing.

Oil thickness controls damping. This controls how quickly the forks move.

Preload controls how much weight the forks require before they start compressing. This is how you set ride height. Note that preload does not affect the actual spring rate, it just adjusts how far the forks compress under static load. This is why the solution for having the wrong spring rate is getting new springs, not adding preload.

5W oil will give a nice plush ride because it creates little damping. However, this will come at the expense of a little front end feel. Also, it's more likely to experiencing pogo-ing with light fork oil because this reduced damping.

Oil thickness depends on the preference of the rider. Finding the right damping is about finding the compromise between feel and comfort, especially because both the rebound and compression damping are controlled by the same fork oil. We don't have fancy forks that can adjust those separately.
Well, good thing because last week I took apart those forks I rebuilt with 5W and will be getting 10w. FWIW, they say that the stock stuff specified in the service manual translates to about 7.5w.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 08:16 AM   #190
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FWIW, they say that the stock stuff specified in the service manual translates to about 7.5w.
Not sure who "they" are, but the manual specifically states SAE 10W. No reason OEM would use 7.5W and then specify a different weight.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 08:41 AM   #191
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Not sure who "they" are, but the manual specifically states SAE 10W. No reason OEM would use 7.5W and then specify a different weight.
No, the manual says to use "Kayaba SS-8 or equivalent." It's hard to say what's "equivalent" because there was almost no mention online but someone here said it was between 5W and 10W.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 03:54 PM   #192
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I can take a picture of the manual if you want.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 08:53 PM   #193
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I can take a picture of the manual if you want.
SERVICE manual? Perhaps you have an updated one because I wasn't the only one to notice that it wasn't in there.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 09:16 PM   #194
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Yes, service manual.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 09:44 PM   #195
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pic of manual. I saw the page you were looking at. It's strange that they show showa on one page and kayaba on another. Maybe they're the same product under 2 different brands?
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Old April 18th, 2013, 08:08 AM   #196
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I checked and, sure enough, page 13-8 just says "KAYABA SS-8 or equivalent" on the PDF copy. I thought they released supplements instead of updating the manual itself, but I guess not.

Thanks! Now I know where it came from. No more wondering.

I saw in your original post about it (now quoted in the OP) that it was the 2008-2009 manual, which is exactly what the PDF claims to be.

I wonder what other little things Kawi fixed/updated without saying anything.
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Confused by "pre/new/newergen?" Try F, J/K, & L.
Example: "Installed F-sprocket on a J-bike" Works with other models too!
'88-'07 EX250-F; '08-'12 EX250-J/-K (FI); '13+ EX250-L
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Old August 18th, 2013, 01:16 PM   #197
rooshio
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Name: Josh
Location: Provo, UT
Join Date: Jan 2009

Motorcycle(s): 2008 ninja 250r - Lime Green

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So I'm about to tackle this job for a leaky left fork. Is it recommended that you replace the dust and oil-seals on both sides, or would it be a waste of my money?
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Old August 23rd, 2013, 07:56 PM   #198
JAG
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Name: Jeremy
Location: Thousand Oaks
Join Date: Aug 2013

Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250

Posts: 22
I've read a lot of post about tightening up
The front suspension. Do they mean getting the forks
To actually move up and down. Are they confusing a stuck fork
For a loose fork. I've noticed my forks barely move going over small
Bumps. Making the ride terrible.
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Old June 18th, 2014, 12:27 AM   #199
23john93
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Name: destructor
Location: pittsburg ks
Join Date: Oct 2013

Motorcycle(s): 2009 ninja250r

Posts: 11
thanks this was helpfull
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Old July 16th, 2014, 01:50 AM   #200
Liako
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Name: Lee
Location: Athens,GR
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Motorcycle(s): None yet

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Hey guys, sorry for digging the thread up. Anyone can give me insight on the bolt size of the triple tree? I'm trying to buy a set of tools for the job atm and I can't find the size of the bolt that tightens the fork on the triple tree. Is it an allen No10?
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